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Old 07-21-2012, 02:19 PM   #136
QuasiMoto
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Thanks Jetgirl!

Golvevi, if you're still following the thread, editing your instructions (T6!) would help future modders with only T7s from getting all
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Old 07-21-2012, 02:44 PM   #137
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Have you (the collective 'you') considered branching out, and figuring out this solution for us riders using Sena SMH10's? I'm one of them, took a shot at a mod awhile back, but in the end had to un-mod to get it working again. If anyone has any interest in going down this path, either speak up here, post over on Sena thread (link), or just send me an email and I'll tell you what I learned about the Sena setup.

Right now in order to use earbuds with Sena, you purchase an accessory, mount it to the helmet in place of the speaker based unit, and off you go. The desire is of course to be able to use earbuds, or, unplug them and have the speakers be activated... without any helmet changes.
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Old 07-22-2012, 04:27 PM   #138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonic578 View Post
Have you (the collective 'you') considered branching out, and figuring out this solution for us riders using Sena SMH10's? I'm one of them, took a shot at a mod awhile back, but in the end had to un-mod to get it working again. If anyone has any interest in going down this path, either speak up here, post over on Sena thread (link), or just send me an email and I'll tell you what I learned about the Sena setup.

Right now in order to use earbuds with Sena, you purchase an accessory, mount it to the helmet in place of the speaker based unit, and off you go. The desire is of course to be able to use earbuds, or, unplug them and have the speakers be activated... without any helmet changes.
email sent about a possible smh10 earbud mod
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Old 08-11-2012, 04:42 PM   #139
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Cardo Scala G-4 Ear Bud Modification – With Switched Jack
First of all Thanks to Golevi for pioneering the modification, and for the great instructions – see http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=628028
I wanted to perform the earbud mod, but retain the ability to use the built in speakers. The solution is of course to use a switched jack. Finding a switched jack small enough to fit in the G-4 base led me to an SMT mount unit – Switchcraft # 35RASMT4BHNTRX which I purchased from Mouser (Mouser# 502-35RASMT4BHNTRX) on line for $1.11 + shipping. This appears to be a common form factor, and other manufacturers may make an equivalent.
Materials/Tools Needed:
· Switched 3.5mm jack: Switchcraft # 35RASMT4BHNTRX (Mouser# 502-35RASMT4BHNTRX)
· 28 Gauge stranded wire – multiple colors (Flat Multi-colored Ribbon Cable is a good source)
· Fine gauge (.03”) rosin core solder
· Solder wick (for desoldering the Circuit Board)
· Small – approx. 1/16” heat shrink tubing
· Good Temperature controlled soldering iron with a fine pointed tip (not chisel)
· T7 Torx driver
· Wire strippers
· Diagonal Cutter
· 5 Minute Epoxy or Hot Glue
· Hand Held Power Drill
· Drills
o Drill Bit - Approx. #67 or 1/32; (for pilot hole)
o Drill Bit #6 (for finished hole)
o 2 or 3 intermediate drill sizes between 67 and 6 for enlarging the pilot hole.
A few notes on soldering:
· A good temperature controlled soldering station is strongly recommended . Use a fine pointed tip.
· If you are unfamiliar with PCB (Printed Circuit Board) soldering, do a little internet research – it’s nothing to fear, but there a few principles to follow:
o Keep the tip clean by wiping on a damp sponge. Keep the tip tinned with fresh solder followed by wipe on the sponge after every solder joint – keep it clean and shiny with solder.
o Don’t use too much heat – you will damage the PCB – I like about 750ºF
o With the exception of the PCB, tin both sides of every joint before you make it – by this I mean put a little solder on each side of the joint before making the joint. i.e., pre-tin the wire and the terminal.
o In general, when soldering, heat the terminal or joint, touch the solder to the joint or terminal, not the iron – when the temperature of the joint reaches melting temp, the solder will melt – this will avoid a cold brittle solder joint. In practice, with terminals and wires this small, you can touch the solder to the iron and let it flow around the joint, but make sure that the solder flows out onto and into the joint.
Procedure:
Step 1) Disassemble G-4 base
· Follow Golevi’s instructions (http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=628028)
Step 2) Make the Hole
· Scribe or otherwise mark the hole position as seen in the figure below. A dial caliper is a nice way to do this – the jaws of the caliper can be used to scribe the plastic.




· Carefully center punch the position of the hole
· Starting with a very small pilot drill – such as #67 or 1/32” work your way up in progressive drill sizes to the final size of #6 drill (.204”)
· Be careful drilling, and work your way up slowly, you risk cracking the part with too big a step in drill size, I did it in 5 steps. The plastic does seem to be pretty forgiving, but don’t risk it.


Step 3) Build the Jack Sub Assembly

· Pre-tin all the terminals on the Jack - be careful, just apply a small amount of solder to each terminal – pretty much as little as you can while still wetting the terminal with solder. You don’t want to melt the plastic of the jack, or get solder inside the jack or its internal switches. (You did buy extra Jacks - right? They’re cheap)
· Cut five Approx. 6” lengths of the 28Ga stranded wire, individual colors are of course easier to follow, but not necessary. Don’t use solid wire it WILL break in use or during assembly.
· Strip one end of each wire – trim the exposed copper to .05” - .100”
· Pre-tin the exposed wire, again go easy – if you get too much solder wicked up inside the wire, the wire will be too stiff to manage – you also don’t want to melt away the insulation.
· Now – with everything pre-tinned, the next part is easy. Pick a wire, bend it to match the configuration shown below, place the wire into place, make sure the end of the wire to be soldered is in contact with the terminal, and naturally falls into contact with the terminal – i.e., does not “want” to move away from the terminal.
· While holding the wire in place, simply touch briefly the soldering tip to the joint. The pre-tinning should melt and the joint is made. Extra hands, tape, etc. can be useful here.
· Repeat for all five wires – work carefully, try to achieve the wire routing shown below.
· Keep an eye on the insulation - it is very easy to put too much heat into the wire, and melt the insulation and cause a short between wires – don’t be afraid to remove a wire and replace it.



· Trim the leads you just soldered to the Jack to the proper length by temporarily placing the Jack sub-assembly into the housing as shown below, routing the wires as shown, and trimming all leads coincident with the vertical wall in the housing as shown below.


· Slip a 1” piece of heat shrink tubing over the Yellow and Green Wires – but don’t shrink yet.
· Finished Jack Sub-Assembly is shown below


Step 4) Prepare PCB
· Desolder and Disconnect the two positive Helmet Speaker leads labeled RIGHT and LEFT from the PCB as follows (Do not disconnect R-and L-):
o This is the hardest part of the process – work carefully – there is nothing to fear.
o As it turns out, the helmet speaker wires are much larger gage, and easier to work with than I expected.
o Heat the joint with the iron, and pull the lead out of the hole. Be very careful that the solder is melted – don’t force the wire – you can pull the solder pad off the PCB and ruin the PCB. This is a three handed operation - have a helper hold the PCB, or clamp the PCB in a vise to free your hands. Don’t overheat the PCB – again, you can cause the pad to separate from the PCB.
o Use de-soldering braid to clean the solder from the pad. To use desoldering braid, place a fresh portion of the braid against the solder to be removed – place the iron on top of the braid (the braid is between the iron and the PCB) – as the heat from the iron soaks into the braid, the solder will begin to melt and will wick into the braid – move the braid to a clean portion of braid, and repeat until the hole in the pad is open to receive the new lead. Again, be careful not to overheat the PCB – work slowly, and let things cool down between applications of the iron.



Step 5) Solder the Jack Sub-Assembly to the PCB
· Here is the circuit diagram – wire colors match the stock colors found in my G4 unit, and the colors I used for my jack sub-assembly. Colors therefore match the photos.




· The positive speaker leads (green and dashed green) that were de-soldered from the PCB are not long enough to reach the jack – they must be soldered to the yellow and green leads on the Jack Sub-assembly as follows. Refer to the circuit diagram above where “solder and heat shrink” is indicated.
o Strip and tin the ends of the green and yellow wires on the Jack Sub-Assembly. Trim the tinned ends to aprox. .10” (2mm) exposed and tinned wire.
o Straighten and tin the green and dashed green right and left speaker leads.
o Make sure that the heat shrink tubing is placed on the green and yellow jack subassembly wires
o This is another good place for a helper – hold the two solid green leads together – overlapping end to end, and touch the iron to the joint – because the leads are tinned, the joint should melt almost immediately – remove the iron while holding the leads for a moment unit the joint cools. Repeat for the Dashed Green and Yellow joint.
o Slip the heat shrink into place over the solder joint and shrink using a heat gun, match, or candle.




· Solder the Brown and Blue wires from the Jack Sub-Assembly to the LEFT and RIGHT (respectively) terminals of the PCB. See wiring diagram. If you get these backwards, no harm will be done, but the left to right balance will be backwards.
· Strip and tin the red wire from the Jack Sub-Assembly about 3/8” (10mm) – Solder this wire to both the R- and the L- terminal on the PCB – this is the negative or ground line and is common to right and left. See picture below.




Step 6) Install the Jack in the Housing
· Seal the Jack - You need to keep the Epoxy out of the two terminal openings in the rear body of the jack (terminals 3 and 5). I used a strip of adhesive tape to mask the openings. The epoxy is thick so there is no need to make the masking “water tight” – just block the “oozing” of the adhesive.


· Fit the Jack into the housing – pushing the tip of the jack into the hole.
· Route the wires as shown
· Mix some 5 minute epoxy
· Dispense a mound of epoxy in the area behind the back end of the jack. Hold the jack in place while the epoxy sets. Hot glue should also work
· The goal of the epoxy is to form a “wall” or “stop”at the back of the Jack which keeps the jack securely engaged in the hole in the housing.


Step 6) Reassemble the G4 unit
· Route the wires as seen in the Photo above.
· Reassembly is reverse of disassembly


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Old 08-12-2012, 06:39 AM   #140
QuasiMoto
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Great improvement! Now *that's* the way to go. Well done, and thanks for posting.

I did the "unswitched" mod last weekend and took a long, deep breath when I cut the speaker wires off the unit. "There's gotta a be a decent switched solution, but....[snip]"
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Old 08-14-2012, 09:33 PM   #141
hamshack
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I Need a Microphone Mod

I did the earbud mod and it works great, now I need a way to use the boom microphone on my J&M helmet headset for the G4 also. That way I can take the boom mic off the G4 and just have one microphone for two radios. You would only need a mono jack for the microphone connection. If I knew what kind of connectors J&M uses that connect the microphone to the main wire harness I could make a Y splitter and route the mic audio to the G4 and the J&M harness. Could also do the same for the J&M helmet speakers and have them do double duty also..
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Old 08-15-2012, 05:52 PM   #142
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G4 and G9 clamp mods volume problem

I have been working with one of my customers on volume issues with the G9.

Just to be clear, the G4 mod has the problem with volume being louder when you use the earbuds. It is a matter of impedance and power required. When the earbuds are used you need to run the master comm volume at a much lower level, almost at the bottom.

This is not really a problem with the G4, it is still usable. The difference you notice is when the master volume goes up to compensate for increase in background noise it goes in steps and when you are at a low volume level the steps seem large.

While you can live with it when using a G4 it gets harder when you are using a G9. The volume output of the G9 is higher than the G4 clamp can provide so as a result, it gets harder to live with at the low volume levels of the main control. Sometimes it can get to the point that when you plug in an MP3 player it may not be able to put out enough volume to get "noticed" by the amplifier and you can't hear it.

The solution is to get some resistance in the output to the earbuds. This can be done in 3 ways, either by installing a 56 ohm resistor on the common leg inside the clamp or by installing an inline volume control. If you install a resistor inside the clamp you can no longer plug the speakers back in and use them, the volume will be cut down and you can't hear it.

A simple solution is to get an inline volume control.

I found a source for some short inline controls that seem to work well and are cheap. I picked up a few of them and will pass them along to anyone who gets an earbud mod done for an additional $8. If you have had a mod done in the past just send me an email and I'll send you one for the same price plus postage.

eileen.kelleher AT gmail.com

This is what it looks like:
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Old 08-23-2012, 01:55 PM   #143
Kev UK
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Q2 Pro mod

Hello All.

I’d been reading this thread with some interest over the last couple of weeks because I wanted to modify my Scala Rider Q2 Pro so that I could use ear buds.

I couldn’t understand why people were getting twitchy about the colour coding of the original speakers. Seeing as I had no intention of re-using these speakers I figured the colour coding of the wires had no relevance so I simply unsoldered them from the circuit board and put them to one side.

For me the important information was printed on the circuit board, R+, R-, AN-R, L+, L- and AN-L. I assumed the wires marked AN-R and AN-L were antenna cables for the built in FM radio. It seemed most likely that the third wire in each speaker cable acted as an antenna and was only connected at the circuit board end.

Of all the functions on the Q2 Pro, the one I use the least is the radio. So, I decided to leave these wires off entirely because a non functioning radio is a small price to pay for being able to have a conversation with my pillion at speeds above 40mph. However, having now carried out the mod and tested the units I can report that omitting the antenna cables seems to have had little or no effect on the performance of the radio.

I purchased a 3.5mm stereo splitter from Maplins for £6.50 which was the only expenditure required to convert both mine and my pillions Q2 Pros. The splitter is one of those gadgets with a single 3.5mm male jack and two females to allow two people to listen to a single iPod/MP3 player.

I soldered one of the female plugs to each of the Scala units as a replacement for the original speakers. There is very little room in the Q2 to fit a socket so I have ended up with a short lead exiting the casing instead of the original speaker cables.

I have photographed each step if anyone is interested. The whole operation turned out to be a whole lot easier and quicker than I anticipated.

I hope this helps the Q2 Pro users amongst you.
Kev.



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Old 10-01-2012, 02:17 AM   #144
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I guess the easy answer would be that after doing maybe 8 or 10 of these, but some going well some problematic. Either some revs of the boards are marked wrong or some older models are inconsistent. If the markings on the board are followed the unit won't work.

I don't work on them anymore for that reason, the last one I did I worked on I got so frustrated that I bought a new one for the customer and modified that one.

If you simply remove the wires and follow the markings sometimes it just does not work. You can even find conflicting wiring descriptions on this forum.

Good luck,
Eileen

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Old 10-01-2012, 04:18 PM   #145
bob393
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I got to tell you: You guys do some superior work.
I'm pretty good at this stuff but I don't think I would have the stones to mod mine.

Bravo
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Old 10-01-2012, 04:41 PM   #146
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Great idea but that work is above my pay grade.

I ( like many) have the G4 and wish I could use in ear's as they sound way better and reduce wind noise at the same time. That said I dont have the time,tools or patience to tear it apart and re-wire it. Too bad you cannot just plug a female jack/adaptor in the input that is already on the back of the unit but I guess that is just for sound in and not sound out? Too bad because that would be an easy fix. Maybe the O.P could start a business here. I would gladly pay
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Old 10-01-2012, 07:24 PM   #147
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Then you would lose the mp3 input. The jack addition in the G4 clamp is fairly easy and quick. If the mod gets too fiddly it is not worth doing, the clamp mod as is works really well.

Jmho
Eileen

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Old 10-02-2012, 10:13 AM   #148
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Yes on the MP3 jack but I never use it as I stream all my music from my blu tooth GPS unit if I am using the Scala. Other wise just use in- ears and go directly to my i-pod if I just want to have good music sound and less noise. It would be nice to have the best of both worlds but I cannot see myself doing the work here. I am not that good and dont have all the tools and time.
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Old 10-02-2012, 10:28 AM   #149
JetGrl
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I have a thread in the vendors forum about this. I do the mod for you for $30 plus return postage. You can email me at: Eileen.Kelleher@gmail.com for mailing instructions. I can get it on the way back to you the same day most of the time.

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Old 10-02-2012, 02:45 PM   #150
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Great. Thanks..

I'll PM you. I am sometimes in the Phoenix/Cave Creek area. In fact will be this weekend..
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