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Old 11-04-2010, 02:17 PM   #16
danedg
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I got 9000 miles out of my rear spitfire....the front is still on after 15....
great tires.....
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Old 11-04-2010, 02:23 PM   #17
crazydrummerdude
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Joined: Nov 2006
Location: St Louis, MO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danedg
I got 9000 miles out of my rear spitfire....the front is still on after 15....
great tires.....
Other way around for me with Metzelers. Maybe I should try your brand on the rear..
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Old 11-05-2010, 12:03 AM   #18
fadingfastsd OP
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Joined: Feb 2007
Location: San Diego, CA
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A few more updates.
Got my tires today. Also got new brake pads in, (rears installed today, still need to do fronts).
I got my HID headlight wired up and working correctly. Cleaned the handlebar switches.

Just waiting on carb kits to get here from EUBMW.
How long does their shipping usually take? Still waiting....

As for tires, will most car tire shops mount & balance bike tires? Just wondering.

And some pictures:

Here's the handlebar setup I was talking about. This is completely temporary, and won't be ridden like this. Just couldn't stand looking at the high bars any more, this let me route the cables.


On second though, just figured I'd ask. If I weld the bars back together between the clamps, think this would be OK to ride?

Brake pads:


New tires (Bridgestone Spitfires)


Widened the hole in the bottom of the headlight bucket (was there for the Luft fairing wiring harness) and ran the wires for my HID headlight triggering through there.


Shows the HID bulb in the housing. Had to trim down the bulb housing slightly to fit the housing. It's an H4 style, but slightly larger housing.
Also I can sketch up a diagram of my relay and trigger setup for the HID if anybodys wondering.
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Old 11-05-2010, 05:59 AM   #19
crazydrummerdude
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Why'd you cut the bars in the first place?

It's cool looking to be down so low, but sucks in city traffic.. I ditched my clubmans on my R90:


..and am now running some euro bars from Huckys. No complaints.

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Old 11-05-2010, 06:07 AM   #20
bpeckm
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re Bars: you would probably find them difficult in tight situations, over to one side or the other....

As mentioned: the Euro bars, or the 65LS bars, make great looking and functional bars.

I am using K-bike bars, which also work fine, I used them on both of these bikes:




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Old 11-05-2010, 10:38 AM   #21
blaine.hale
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Location: Atlanta, Ga
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fadingfastsd
As for tires, will most car tire shops mount & balance bike tires? Just wondering

Nope. 90% of car places will not touch bike tires for liability reasons unfortunately :(
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Old 11-05-2010, 11:36 AM   #22
Renner
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Location: sunny SoCal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fadingfastsd
As for tires, will most car tire shops mount & balance bike tires? Just wondering.
Clairemont Cycle Supply will mount and balance at a reasonable price, good small shop to visit:
7843 Clairemont Mesa Boulevard, San Diego, CA 92111-1618 (858) 571-5531

are you involved locally? www.spokesmenmoto.com
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Old 11-06-2010, 12:19 AM   #23
fadingfastsd OP
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Well got the tires mounted and balanced today. Had to go to the local BMW dealer, no other shop around here could balance the BMW rims for some reason!
(although I didn't call Clairemont Cycle Supply...probably should have. Great shop and I've been in there quite a bit). $80 for 2 tires mounted/balanced.

Renner where are you in San Diego? I live in Bay Park/West Clairemont area.

Also, got my carb kits from EUBMW. Rebuilt both Bing's with all new o-rings, gaskets, and diaphragms. I can't get the bike running however. It runs like shit. Won't idle...pops and backfires. ugh.
It ran fine before taking the carbs apart.

I'm out of town til Sunday, but I'll dig back into the carbs when I get back in town.

Any local San Diego airhead guys able to take a look with me and help me dial in carbs? I'll buy beer & pizza! Sunday afternoon?

More updates on Sunday when I'm back...
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Old 11-06-2010, 12:42 AM   #24
kbasa
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Joined: May 2002
Location: Marin County, California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazydrummerdude
Tank's a correct small tank. There's also a large tank for these years.

PM'ed about parts (tac/sidecovers/Krausers).
I'm a big fan of the small tank. My brother had a black 75/6. He had the wheels rebuilt and in combination with the S fairing, it was really, really pretty.
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Old 11-06-2010, 05:26 AM   #25
Renner
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Location: sunny SoCal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fadingfastsd
Any local San Diego airhead guys able to take a look with me ...
...there just happens to be a lot of Airhead guys in San Diego, AMHIK.

pm sent
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Old 11-06-2010, 08:18 PM   #26
crazydrummerdude
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Location: St Louis, MO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kbasa
I'm a big fan of the small tank. My brother had a black 75/6. He had the wheels rebuilt and in combination with the S fairing, it was really, really pretty.
Big fan here, too. Looks wise, that is.



But, the little bit of range comes in handy. (Even though both of these pics are in the same town. Ha.)

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Old 11-07-2010, 08:55 PM   #27
fadingfastsd OP
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OK I'm about to go crazy with this bike!

It will not run! When I brought it home it ran fine. Started very easily, and idled and ran fine.

However, now after carb clean/rebuild, new points, condenser, and plugs, set the the valves and checked timing, it won't run. It cranks, pops and backfires. Will run for a few seconds every now and then, but is uneven between cylinders, and very rough, and then dies.

The carbs are cleaned inside, all new o-rings and gaskets.
I double checked the choke/enrichener bodies are installed correctly on each carb, they jets are correct, the slide is installed correctly, and they are clean inside. Starting with 1 1/2 turns out on the air screws.

The heads looked good, valves set correctly per service manual.

I set the point gap per service manual, and set static timing correctly.

What the hell am I missing!? This thing just won't run!

Any ideas???
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We design, develop, and manufacture high power motorcycle stators, voltage regulators, and other charging system, electrical, and ignition components.
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Old 11-08-2010, 07:25 AM   #28
ericrat
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Joined: May 2007
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Oddometer: 1,109
Quote:
Originally Posted by fadingfastsd
OK I'm about to go crazy with this bike!

However, now after carb clean/rebuild, new points, condenser, and plugs, set the the valves and checked timing, it won't run. It cranks, pops and backfires. Will run for a few seconds every now and then, but is uneven between cylinders, and very rough, and then dies.


I set the point gap per service manual, and set static timing correctly.

What the hell am I missing!? This thing just won't run!

Any ideas???
Backfiring is a strong indicator that timing is off. Check again, are you confident in you points setting logic? I would recheck the valves too, since it is easy to do.
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Old 11-08-2010, 02:16 PM   #29
fadingfastsd OP
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OK...
double checked the timing this morning. Static timing is dead on.
I noticed that the wire attached to the points was rubbing on the advance mechanism. This was shorting out the points every revolution, causing it to spark at incorrect times.

However, now I've got a different issue. This thing cranked slowly when I got it.
It still fired easily before I took everything apart, usually on the first crank or two.

Now, it will barely spin, with a brand new battery, and even jumped from a car battery.

I bypassed the relay....jumped the starter right at the solenoid, off of a car battery. Still barely cranks over.

I'm going to pull the starter and go through it. Hopefully dirty contacts causing high resistance.
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We design, develop, and manufacture high power motorcycle stators, voltage regulators, and other charging system, electrical, and ignition components.
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Old 11-08-2010, 02:24 PM   #30
Renner
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couple links to Bosch starter R&R that may be useful:
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbend..._repair_-bosch-

http://gallery.oldholden.com/Jack_s/...Starter+Motor/
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