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Old 11-29-2010, 02:17 PM   #91
fadingfastsd OP
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Location: San Diego, CA
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Bike is together and running great!

Need a few things taken care of still though:

*front brake sucks. absolutely useless. I attribute this to the horribly soft and rotted rubber hose.

*Right carb leaking when bike is running. Not the float bowl, not the fuel line. I need to track this down.

*When hot the idle hangs up when I let off the throttle. After sitting for a few seconds, it drops down to steady idle.

*Need to add front turn signals.

I REALLY want to get a stock bench seat. Anybody want to trade for the solo saddle I have on this thing? I can't stand it!
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Old 11-29-2010, 08:25 PM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fadingfastsd
Bike is together and running great!
Keep up the great work.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fadingfastsd
*front brake sucks. absolutely useless. I attribute this to the horribly soft and rotted rubber hose.
Single disc ATE caliper? 36 year old design? Likely more than just the hose. Adding a second disc helps too. Some of the '74 /6 owners may have more advice.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fadingfastsd
*Right carb leaking when bike is running. Not the float bowl, not the fuel line. I need to track this down.
Sinking floats are a possibility. Floats sink and overflow through the overflow tube in the center of the bowl.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fadingfastsd
*When hot the idle hangs up when I let off the throttle. After sitting for a few seconds, it drops down to steady idle.
Air leak in intake tubes?

Quote:
Originally Posted by fadingfastsd
*Need to add front turn signals.
Yes, definitely.

I REALLY want to get a stock bench seat. Anybody want to trade for the solo saddle I have on this thing? I can't stand it![/quote]

I ain't got nothing for you there.
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Old 11-30-2010, 06:50 AM   #93
Renner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fadingfastsd
*front brake sucks. absolutely useless. I attribute this to the horribly soft and rotted rubber hose.
replacing the (in)flexible hose can't hurt. If you're balking at the cost of OEM you may look into having a steel braided hydraulic line fabricated for you.
Locally the folks at Industrial Liquidators on Convoy will build-up a line for you very inexpensively. Take your old line to them for use as a pattern.

I prefer OEM in this application.

Some cheap aftermarket hydraulic lines don't use a proper flare-type seal... don't settle for a crush-washer seal.

Good to optimize the brakes but as Fishkens says they're not going to stop the bike like you dropped anchor.
You do have the anchor accessory don't you...
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Old 11-30-2010, 10:47 AM   #94
crazydrummerdude
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My /6 front brakes were never really that bad..

But, I did just get stainless braided lines for both of 'em here.
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Old 11-30-2010, 12:08 PM   #95
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Speaking of stainless brake lines, you may consider using Earl's Speed-flex system.

Check out this link to thegsresources where a fella there documents his experience making his own brake lines using the Earl's stuff:
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=114521

The Earl's stuff can be bought from http://www.anplumbing.com/shop/
You'll spend $2.62 per foot of the uncoated -3 sized line (or $3.89/ft for the coated line which I used on my Suzuki rehab last winter) and about $10 per end.

Here's a video of a dude spinning up a line:



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Old 12-04-2010, 08:56 PM   #96
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Thanks for the brake tips guys, I'll be checking into this ASAP. Brakes are definitely my next upgrade.

Leaking right carb turned out to be the float needle not seating correctly.
I started it up, and tapped the right carb body with a screwdriver handle 5-6 times, and it stopped. Seems fine now. I'll keep an eye on it for more leaking, but looks good so far.

I also put a bigger battery in the bike.
It is a CarQuest heavy duty Lawn & Garden battery, P/N U1R12, up to 335 Cold Cranking Amps. It is slightly wider than the battery tray, although perfect fit lengthwise. It was about $40 at my local CarQuest.

Since the stock battery tray on the bike was already corroded from the old battery having cracked and spilled acid all over, I didn't mind extending it.
I cut the tray in half down the middle, and sanded it down. I used some metal plate I had, and welded extensions in. I extended it about 1/2" wider.
I then used car-type battery hold downs.

I'm attaching pictures below so you can see what I mean.
The battery is solid in its mount now (old one cracked from being a poor fit and not held down correctly, vibration cracked a corner of the case).
However the new battery tray only makes use of the top left and right mounting points. The original 3 bottom rubber mounted points are no longer used, as they were corroded from spilled acid, and broke when trying to remove the mounting bolts.
The battery sits basically touching the rear of the air filter housing, which probably isn't ideal, but it's easy to remove the tray now, so no big deal.

The bike is running absolutely great, and actually handles very well.
I need to get new fork gaitors (I cut the old ones off as they were dry rotted), and definitely need to replace the blown out rear shocks.
The HID headlight is awesome as well.
The bike pulls hard, tracks straight and solid on the freeway and has no problems cruising 80mph.

I like the Bridgestone Spitfires so far, they seem like great tires.
I'm still looking for a decent stock bench seat, I would love to straight trade the solo saddle for one.


Anyways, more updates coming soon, the bike's still not where I want it. But I'm just glad to have it together at the moment, and am having a blast cruising it around San Diego.

-Evan

battery




Battery Tray Extensions - excuse the horrible looking welds. I'm far from a good welder. I can make stuff stick together, but it's never pretty, and I won't weld anything critical or load-bearing!!!








Clearance between air filter housing and battery (none!)
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We design, develop, and manufacture high power motorcycle stators, voltage regulators, and other charging system, electrical, and ignition components.
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Old 12-05-2010, 03:54 AM   #97
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Damn, that's a snug fit. Is it really worth it? I payed about $75 for mine at Batteries Plus for the Yuasa and it's lasted for 5 or 6 years so far.
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Old 12-05-2010, 09:43 AM   #98
crazydrummerdude
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The battery's going to get rubbed pretty raw by the air filter housing.

I would have (and have done) found a lawn tractor battery smaller than the battery tray.. but, $40 batterys don't last long, and I'd read about people getting 8-10 years out of a WestCo, so that's what's in my R90 now. My R75 still has a Yuasa that should have died a long time ago.
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Old 12-05-2010, 11:59 AM   #99
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I didn't take pictures of the clamp and battery hold down.
It doesn't move at all. Even a little bit.
I really don't think there's much wear between the battery wall and the filter housing. The sticker isn't even discolored or marked from rubbing.

I'll keep you guys posted on how long it lasts, but I'm not worried about it at this point.

Like I said, the tray was basically unusable in it's current form from the corrosion, so it was no big deal to cut out the middle. And the battery was cheap and available locally, so it all worked out so far.
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We design, develop, and manufacture high power motorcycle stators, voltage regulators, and other charging system, electrical, and ignition components.
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Old 12-09-2010, 11:07 PM   #100
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Update on the carburetor gas leak.
The right carb was still leaking on my foot after a minute of running.
By the end of a good ride, my shoe would be soaked...ruined a good pair of Converse All Stars :)

After further investigation, turned out that the leak was dripping from the float bowl overflow tube outlet on the bottom center of the bowl.
So root cause was float level being incorrect. I had eyeballed the float level when I had the carbs apart and thought it was ok.

After resetting the float levels with the carbs upside down (each side needed a little bend), we're good to go.
Test ride today for 10min running and not a drop leaked.
Considering that problem fixed!

Next, mounting an Acewell (in addition to stock gauges) for more accurate tach/speedo, and LED turn signals up front. I think I'm gonna take a ride to the Salton Sea this weekend for fun.
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Old 12-09-2010, 11:26 PM   #101
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You're not really gonna run that negative cable in the previous picture are you??
Please say it ain't so.

Oh and by the by, wouldn't that nattery have better clearance if you put the proper rubber mounts in on the top mounts?
That looks pretty sketchy from here.
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Old 12-09-2010, 11:46 PM   #102
fadingfastsd OP
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None of those pictures above are finalized wiring for the battery...I thought it was obvious that nothing is hooked up and the terminals are all taped up !?

That is the exact ground cable I'm using on the bike, although in that picture its not in its final configuration at all.

Where do you see a problem with the cable itself? (like I said ignore routing in that picture)

I'll take some pictures of the final setup which has over 150 miles on it so far, I'm really not worried about it's reliability.
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We design, develop, and manufacture high power motorcycle stators, voltage regulators, and other charging system, electrical, and ignition components.
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Old 12-09-2010, 11:50 PM   #103
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Oh and as far as the upper rubber mounts on the battery tray...they were shot on this bike. The whole battery tray was trashed, and the upper rubber mounts were rotted and warped badly. They were not reusable whatsoever.

Since i'm on an extreme budget with this bike at the moment, they were scrapped and I hardmounted the battery for now.
This is all up for change when I have money to go through the bike and repair/replace as needed.

But for now, after 150 miles or so on this setup, the battery is absolutely rock solid. There has been no wear of the battery case rubbing on the air filter housing. It's held in place too tight, just isn't moving to rub.

I'm not too worried about it...having too much fun riding the bike to go nuts over perfecting my battery tray
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Old 12-10-2010, 09:13 AM   #104
wirewrkr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fadingfastsd View Post
Oh and as far as the upper rubber mounts on the battery tray...they were shot on this bike. The whole battery tray was trashed, and the upper rubber mounts were rotted and warped badly. They were not reusable whatsoever.

Since i'm on an extreme budget with this bike at the moment, they were scrapped and I hardmounted the battery for now.
This is all up for change when I have money to go through the bike and repair/replace as needed.

But for now, after 150 miles or so on this setup, the battery is absolutely rock solid. There has been no wear of the battery case rubbing on the air filter housing. It's held in place too tight, just isn't moving to rub.

I'm not too worried about it...having too much fun riding the bike to go nuts over perfecting my battery tray
the rubber mounts also act as a spacer for the tray, pulling it backwards, so that battery doesn't lay right against the air filter housing as yours is.
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Old 12-10-2010, 11:26 AM   #105
Ben Carufel
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Cool project, Evan. Did I see your bike parked in front of True North/Urban Solace on 30th just South of University last week?
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