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Old 05-23-2012, 01:46 AM   #1636
Yascher
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spark01 View Post
So today i tried several things on the dyno,

First checked the map sensors and they had a big off set 400hpa vs 700hpa in Tuneecu when running idle
But a vacuum meter showed a perfect balanced throttle body? (without a running engine there was only a diference of 4hpa between the Map sensors).
So i checked the vacuum lines to the Map sensors but there was nothing wrong.
Next step i swapped the MAP sensors and now they show 400hpa vs 500hpa ??.
But again after trying to set the air/fuel correct, nothing worked.
The air/fuel was still way to rich (tried the value's of both map sensors in the same L map on the same rpm range)

So i loaded the original 2008 mapping and again tried to set the air/fuel, still nothing....

I did read after every download what was stored inside the ecu and it all matched the changes that i made.

Again i sent as much info to Alain as possible but if he can help me? i'm affraid not.

Now i decided to buy a powercommander and load the orginal mapping back in the ecu and will leave it as it is.
I'm done with this crap.


Maybe it is caused by a software bug, maybe not.
Maybe a bad ECU, maybe not.
but let this be a small warning/advice.
Not to adjust without measuring because there is a possiblity that it doesn't work as i discovered.
did you check for possible leaks in the vac lines or in the sensors after swap??? it seems like a logical explanation for getting different readings every time you connect disconnect sensor or vac-meter of swap places
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Old 05-23-2012, 03:36 AM   #1637
shootis
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Drivers

Quote:
Originally Posted by ruley View Post
what driver are you using for those cables???

thanks
Here you go!

http://www.tuneecu.com/TuneECU_En/links.html
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Old 05-23-2012, 03:51 AM   #1638
Spark01
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yascher View Post
did you check for possible leaks in the vac lines or in the sensors after swap??? it seems like a logical explanation for getting different readings every time you connect disconnect sensor or vac-meter of swap places
The hoses where ok and properly seated on the throttle bodies and map sensors.
Why it suddely changed that big? maybe bad electrical connection?.

But i don't think it was sensor related as the value was both times the same on 1 cylinder ~400hpa
But as the ecu still didn't changed the fuel the way is suppost to.
And the Map sensor reading was stable so i stopped trying, it cost me allready to much time&money.
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Old 05-23-2012, 04:26 AM   #1639
Yascher
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spark01 View Post
The hoses where ok and properly seated on the throttle bodies and map sensors.
Why it suddely changed that big? maybe bad electrical connection?.

But i don't think it was sensor related as the value was both times the same on 1 cylinder ~400hpa
But as the ecu still didn't changed the fuel the way is suppost to.
And the Map sensor reading was stable so i stopped trying, it cost me allready to much time&money.
can you try with just tuneecu find the problem yourself until there will be a steady reading from both MAPs and preferably VACmeter to support it before attempting to go for Dyno?
It is a very strange problem anyway
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Old 05-23-2012, 04:31 AM   #1640
Yascher
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Spark01
please send me a PM with your mail and I will send you a good map for SMT, but it is an acro map which was fiddled with.
Works without any pop from the exhaust with normal fuel consumption.
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Old 05-23-2012, 05:23 AM   #1641
MotorOlly
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Spark01 sorry to hear about your troubles, not had any myself with latest version of tuneecu, can update everything fine as far as I can see but I've only been building my own maps, never from other bikes.
Regarding the map sensors it sounds a lot like miscalibration. Doing both adaption resets did wonders to my bike, actually solved all the problems you're describing BigT, so long as done to the letter as on tuneecu site.
My latest theory hehe is the temp change as the.bike warms up over the 15mins affects the map sensors, maybe others too, recalibrating allows the ecu to get a new base line. If u swap sensors the calibration will be out. this is also why there is a step in throttle response at low revs unless calibrated, its the map sensor getting 'on to the scale'. Feel free to pick holes in it but it seems to hold true so far :)
Olly
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Old 05-24-2012, 07:46 AM   #1642
deksawyer
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In my quest to find a smoother running 06 UK 990 Adventure (with Akras & baffles) I planned on using Tune ECU to load the Akra map and have a play with some sensors, switching them on/off to see how it ran.

It turned out the bike already had the Akra map with the o2 & EPC sensores switched off, but it was as jerky as hell in first with an on/off throttle situation further up the revs. I tried with the SAI off with the Akra map and it wasn't much better.

Now, I've found a great combination. STD 06 map, with SAI, o2 & EPC off - everything else as it came. Runs very smooth and very little on/off throttle or jerkyness. It does feel a bit vibey, the engine that is, but that's maybe because I can now hold steady revs without it hunting, or maybe it;s just in my mind. I'm hoping it's not running too lean - I managed just over 165 miles on near as damit a full tank mostly on narrow twisty roads.

Anyone else run with a similar set up? Any issues? Anyone have a tweaked map I can try?

cheers

D.
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Old 05-24-2012, 09:08 AM   #1643
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@ Spark01

Quote:
Maybe it is caused by a software bug, maybe not.
Maybe a bad ECU, maybe not.
I've not done much with the ECU on the KTM,but I have a fair amount of experience with automobile computers and every time things start going wonky with one of them I do a hard reset.

Disconnect the battery and anything else connected the bike and let it set for a while,plus check your power and grounds.

Also make sure the input device has been rebooted.(your PC)

It often seems like the ecu gets overwhelmed with the changes being made and retaliates by locking down sections.
Drives me nuts at times..

Hope this will help
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Old 05-24-2012, 09:53 AM   #1644
Spark01
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Quote:
Originally Posted by big-t View Post
@ Spark01

I've not done much with the ECU on the KTM,but I have a fair amount of experience with automobile computers and every time things start going wonky with one of them I do a hard reset.

Disconnect the battery and anything else connected the bike and let it set for a while,plus check your power and grounds.

Also make sure the input device has been rebooted.(your PC)

It often seems like the ecu gets overwhelmed with the changes being made and retaliates by locking down sections.
Drives me nuts at times..

Hope this will help
I know what you mean

Didn't try the battery disconnect....
Everything else.... i and the tuner allready tried.
Tommorow i going to stop by the tuner again, if the dyno isn't used then i try this as the very, very last option.


I also got a PCV on order (which wasn't my first choice) but i don't trust the combination (mine ECU + tuneecu) at this moment.
And i want to make a perfect setup on my bike in combination with a CPR filter (not half work!!).
Maybe if the hard reset works i will sent the PCV back.

But i don't want a half work around by lowering the F-L switch point to 1-2% and than make inaccurate adjustments to the L-map so it won't run lean.





As for the tollerance between the MAP sensors.. i don't really care as long as they are stable.
The bike is adjusted per cylinder anyway
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Old 05-24-2012, 09:59 AM   #1645
bikyto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spark01 View Post
I know what you mean

Didn't try the battery disconnect....
Everything else.... i and the tuner allready tried.
Tommorow i going to stop by the tuner again, if the dyno isn't used then i try this as the very, very last option.


I also got a PCV on order (which wasn't my first choice) but i don't trust the combination (mine ECU + tuneecu) at this moment.
And i want to make a perfect setup on my bike in combination with a CPR filter (not half work!!).
Maybe if the hard reset works i will sent the PCV back.

But i don't want a half work around by lowering the F-L switch point to 1-2% and than make inaccurate adjustments to the L-map so it won't run lean.





As for the tollerance between the MAP sensors.. i don't really care as long as they are stable.
The bike is adjusted per cylinder anyway
That's a bummer Spark01.
let me know how it goes. I am building a new map with a CPR as well that I am testing. I usually run with a MH.
I run a datalogger to follow my af/r and my changes in tuneecu are responding well.

Have you tried a difference ECU? it's a long shot but I can't think of anything else that could be wrong.
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Old 05-25-2012, 01:43 AM   #1646
MotorOlly
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Hey Spark01
Did doing adaptions not sort out the sensors? No change at all?
Just a thought but if you have miscalibrated sensors is there an area of your fuel table the.bike never runs in ie no values never reach it? Could this be the area.that seems.to have no affect.on your engines performance? Just a thought :)
Personally I'd stay away from PCs, its a very 'second hand' way of tuning :/ maybe a new.ecu is even.cheaper anyway?
All the.best sorting it, Olly
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Old 05-25-2012, 06:52 AM   #1647
tahoeacr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spark01 View Post
I know what you mean



But i don't want a half work around by lowering the F-L switch point to 1-2% and than make inaccurate adjustments to the L-map so it won't run lean.



Change your F-L switch to 1800rpm. 0 above that. Tune both cylinders in F maps all rpm. The F-L map will still be active above that RPM but only when you nail the throttle. It won't be switching when your just cruising and still be working for accelerator inrichment. I go real lean under 20% for mpg. This works well as there is too much fuel in the F-L maps when closing throttle. This is the quickest way to tune for smooth throttle and make a great map without buying stock in a dyno.
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Old 05-25-2012, 11:24 PM   #1648
Spark01
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I tried the battery disconnect yesterday but

I disconnected the battery for some minutes and started my laptop.
Then i loaded the stock mapping in to the bike
Started the bike and started looking at the AFR monitor.

The bike did first run a high idle (because it was cold) and the AFR was very rich.
But as the engine warmed up and the rpm's dropped the AFR became low.
1:15-1:16 at 1400-1500rpm with a MAP reading round 400-450hpa.

I shutdown the bike increased 8% round that area, reloaded the mapping and started the bike again.
At first it looked that it worked, but couple of seconds later again the AFR dropped till 1:15-1:16?(rpm and Map reading was the same area).

So i don't know what this ecu is doing with the values that i'm putting inside those L-maps.
But i don't like it


P.S
I didn't do a 15min idle after the map loads!.
But i don't see any reason why it should be done, the only improvement a 15idle makes (my experience) is that the throttle reaction is more smooth after performing the procedure.
But in this case i don't even touch the throttle.
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Old 05-26-2012, 10:07 AM   #1649
tahoeacr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spark01 View Post
I tried the battery disconnect yesterday but

I disconnected the battery for some minutes and started my laptop.
Then i loaded the stock mapping in to the bike
Started the bike and started looking at the AFR monitor.

The bike did first run a high idle (because it was cold) and the AFR was very rich.
But as the engine warmed up and the rpm's dropped the AFR became low.
1:15-1:16 at 1400-1500rpm with a MAP reading round 400-450hpa.

I shutdown the bike increased 8% round that area, reloaded the mapping and started the bike again.
At first it looked that it worked, but couple of seconds later again the AFR dropped till 1:15-1:16?(rpm and Map reading was the same area).

So i don't know what this ecu is doing with the values that i'm putting inside those L-maps.
But i don't like it


P.S
I didn't do a 15min idle after the map loads!.
But i don't see any reason why it should be done, the only improvement a 15idle makes (my experience) is that the throttle reaction is more smooth after performing the procedure.
But in this case i don't even touch the throttle.

So, sit back, take a big breath, relax and read what you just wrote. What did you learn from this?

Quote:
So i don't know what this ecu is doing with the values that i'm putting inside those L-maps.
Tune the F1/F2 maps not L. How much are you increasing by? 200-300 does next to nothing. If you add fuel at 1500-1800 rpm 0% TPS in F1/F2 it will increase A/F @ idle.
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Old 05-27-2012, 08:56 AM   #1650
grinns
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yascher View Post
did you check for possible leaks in the vac lines or in the sensors after swap??? it seems like a logical explanation for getting different readings every time you connect disconnect sensor or vac-meter of swap places
Check the holes in the throttle boddies, mine got covered with old gas junk because it wasn't ridden much and ethanol helped dislodge it....

Cleaned the TB's and wow it runs good!
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