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Old 08-09-2013, 06:49 AM   #2311
Jaimoto
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Thanks guys.
RoundOz, found that #1634 post from Spark post and a few more on superduke.net yesterday, so some people found that volt offset too but still I can't find comments from anyone who changed their sensor(s) and had the volt reading balanced.
Gustavo, gracias por eso, me deja mas tranquilo -y me ahorro desarmar los depositos -
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Old 08-24-2013, 07:24 PM   #2312
renogeorge
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OK. I am installing my 2 into 1 exhaust and CPR/Rttweiller intake. Have the Tune ECU cable ordered and I am looking for a map or maps to start with. Anyone here have anything that they can share?

I don't plan on getting an EG analyzer/Power Commander at this point. Thought I'd see what I can do without one for now. CPR/Rottweiler, on that active thread, talks about starting with a Power Commander map which was developed for a similarly equipped bike, printing out the settings and converting those into Tune ECU. I wouldn't mind trying this if such a map is available.

Bike is 2007 990.

Thanks!!
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Old 08-25-2013, 10:09 AM   #2313
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Goti - here's a thought provoking question: when do all three sensors see the same pressure? If they all see the same pressure, then you could tell if the voltages were off and one needed replacing.


Answer: they all see the same pressure when the engine is not running, they all read atmospheric. So, hook up TuneECU and tell us what all three sensor voltages are reading with the engine not running.

According to KTM, you should try to get the two engine pressure sensors voltage matched, say within 5% or so. The bike will run better. Look at the Atmos sensor too, if it is matched to one of the engine sensors, then swap it out with the odd reading one. The voltage reading for the Atmos sensor is not as critical, it does not see the same pressure range.

These sensors have a limited voltage range, like 0.4v-3.4v. If you have one that starts at 1.4v, then it may not be able to read the full pressure range needed.

The offset between the two engine sensors is determined by the ECU during that Initialization process. These sensors are read before the engine start and the offset between them is saved. The full range of the other sensors, like the temp sensor, is determined also. This is why you should Reset Initialization when replacing parts.

The hoses leading to these sensors are important. If one is longer or larger or more flexible, then the readings will not be as accurate between cylinders. Using an un-reinforced vacuum hose will absorb the peak pulses and the readings won't be accurate. The small jets inside the barb fitting on the intakes is very important too. These jets will get clogged and greatly effect running.

Does this help?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Goti View Post
Thanks. So I'm wrong and both sensors should read a similar voltage.

I already asked Alain about this, will let you know his answer.
BTW, I don't remember reading about people switching sensors and couldn't find any info...what was the outcome?

Even though we have ruled out hose lenght, there is still something that makes me think sensors have to work with that offset, and that's what you are reffering at.
Tuneecu and ktm tool cannot see pressure, that data is only available through a vaccum gauge. So they only receive one input, volts, and then they calculate pressure based on those volts.
Assuming one of the sensores went bad (shows a higher or lower voltage), how is possible that both tuneecu and ktm tool show a correct amount of pressure in hPa, since that hPa figures are calculated from volts?
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Old 08-28-2013, 12:01 PM   #2314
Jaimoto
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Zuber, yes it does help, thanks for taking the time to think about it, I would never thought about when the three sensors should read the same pressure.

Sensors with engine off are 3,45 and 3,41 volts in manifold and 3,42 atmospheric so they should be fine





A pinched or cracked hose could explain the different volts with engine running, I'll look at that as soon as my index finger gets better -nine stitches on it right now-

But I still wonder why all the screenshots I saw shows different values at idle. Is possible that idle doesn't create enough vacuum -or not that constant enough due to engine pulse- to draw conclusions? I would like to see those volts at let's say 5,000rpm

Or...am I just being paranoid?
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Old 08-28-2013, 05:46 PM   #2315
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The idle readings are usually all over the place, and the readings are greatly delayed. I don't use TuneECU to balance the throttle bodies, get another set of gauges to set the balance. I like to balance them riding at 3500-4000 rpm, so it's under a load.

Where did you stick that finger?.... maybe I don't want to know.
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Old 08-28-2013, 06:35 PM   #2316
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zuber View Post
The idle readings are usually all over the place, and the readings are greatly delayed. I don't use TuneECU to balance the throttle bodies, get another set of gauges to set the balance. I like to balance them riding at 3500-4000 rpm, so it's under a load.

Where did you stick that finger?.... maybe I don't want to know.
When you say use gauges to balance the TB`s, can you tell me where you hook them up to? I have mercury gauges that I use on my Aprilia. Just cant seem to find how to for the 990.
Cheers.
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Old 08-28-2013, 07:17 PM   #2317
renogeorge
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I run vacuum lines back from the 2 unused manifold taps. Normally plugged. But that is where I hook up my gauge.

FWIW
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Old 08-28-2013, 08:22 PM   #2318
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The 990 vacuum lines both go to a Tee under the center right side of the air cleaner. This third hose from this Tee goes up to the charcoal cannister. You need to pull the RH gas tank to reach it.

If you pull the charcoal canister, extend these lines to under the seat.
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Old 08-29-2013, 04:47 AM   #2319
rossguzzi
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Im not sure we have these charcoal canisters here in OZ.

I will look for the lines from the manifolds.
Cheers
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Old 08-29-2013, 06:13 AM   #2320
renogeorge
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Front Cyl--Left side. Rear--Right side. Air box off to access. You will need the threaded spigot fittings if you don't have vacuum lines attached for the cannister
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Old 08-29-2013, 09:12 AM   #2321
Jaimoto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zuber View Post
Where did you stick that finger?.... maybe I don't want to know.
Super Tenere spinning rear wheel. And no, I wasn't trying to lube the chain
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Old 08-29-2013, 09:21 AM   #2322
Martynho
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Good move Goti!

He was trying to check chain play


Quote:
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Super Tenere spinning rear wheel. And no, I wasn't trying to lube the chain
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Old 08-29-2013, 09:46 AM   #2323
Jaimoto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Martynho View Post
He was trying to check chain play
What can I say, that shaft looked way too tight
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Old 08-29-2013, 04:04 PM   #2324
MAXVERT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goti View Post
What can I say, that shaft looked way too tight
To many pisco sours will tighten up that shaft every time.

Max
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Old 09-01-2013, 06:25 PM   #2325
HalfFastMoto
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Thumb Successfully made my first two edits

I have a 2008 990 Adv S (ABS). I traded my 2007 640 AdvR and some cash for the bike. I was aware of this thread when I made the deal so the lurch off idle and stall during hard deceleration didn't scare me away from the deal

After ordering a cable from http://www.powercellperformance.com/shop/tuneecu-programing-cables/ I read through all 155 pages of this thread. I've yet to execute the recommended tune up steps but I just couldn't wait to try out the TuneECU software once I had my cable.

Ordered my cable last Saturday and it showed up on Thursday. First thing I did was upload the current MAP (KM601US0704501Map) from the bike and saved it to disk. Worked perfectly

Next I decided to edit some settings.

· First edit:
o F-L Switch –
§ Set to zero for 2400 RPM and up
§ Left rest stock - 1000:20, 1300:20, 1450:20, 2000:27
o Eval:
§ Yay – I didn’t brick the ECU
§ Started right up, let idle for 15min even though I technically didn’t mod the MAP
§ Ride Impression –
· Bucking/Surging – Significantly reduced but still needs work.
· Hard Deceleration Stall – Needs further investigation. Seems to be resolved
· Second edit:
o 2nd Throttle –
§ Set min to 10
§ Left the rest stock (too many to list)
o Eval:
§ Yay – I didn’t brick the ECU
§ Started right up, let idle for 15min even though I technically didn’t mod the MAP
§ Ride Impression –
· Bucking/Surging – Reduced even more but still needs work.
· Hard Deceleration Stall – Needs further investigation. Seems to be resolved

Donated $$ to TuneECU
Great product

edit - forgot how much fun formatting can be on the forum - hopefully you can follow the bullets
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