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Old 06-26-2015, 07:13 PM   #1
dhspam OP
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Joined: Jul 2011
Location: Savannah, GA
Oddometer: 4
Klr650 with vapor lock type symptoms

Just got off a 6k+ ride. My last legs posed some problems that I rode through to get home. I'm on a '09. With about 14k miles.

The first symptom I noticed was that fuel economy went down from 45 to 35. Then, as I hit Vegas, from north to south, that as soon as it got real hot, the bike started bogging down at about 5000-5500 rpm. It also did this at random with steady throttle.

Just before the ride south, I cleaned and oiled the air filter. I ran it without the air filter for 20 miles or so to see if the air filter was still wet or over oiled. Removal didn't change anything. I also checked the choke, that seems to be fully functional.

There was one other time where the bike had this bogging, or power loss type symptom. I had over serviced the engine oil on a change by a half a quart and oil was spitting out the drain tube on the right side by the rear brake pedal. It was also really hot then too. That did not persist and I rode 900 miles or so without this happening again.

Anyone have any insight on this? How does oil get in the air box from over servicing? It looks like that drain valve comes out of the air box. If so, does this mean I need to remove the air box and carb and clean them entirely? That seems to be what I'm headed toward. There was some dark residue on the inside facing part of the air filter when I just removed and cleaned it.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 06-26-2015, 08:02 PM   #2
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Mine had similar problems with heat, I think it was the pad under the tank bag molding in the heat and blocking the tank vent. I rode the same distance and the same heat with out the pad and problem solved...I hope.
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Old 06-26-2015, 08:42 PM   #3
Unstable Rider
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How often do you check the oil, and are you keeping the 'goats eye' covered, or just half ways?

you say "hot".... can you verify that your fan works?

The KLR is quite robust to abuse, negligence, TORTURE and pain, but two things will kill it quick, low or OUT of oil... and heat, if the fan is out or water is gone. Notably the gauges all show "hot" at long stop lights, etc., but if once moving again at a good clip, and if the gauge does not cool down..... "fan" comes to mind, or fan switch. Stuck thermostat maybe after that... but in all of those cases... "the damage is done" and it aint coming back.

Is the overflow jug empty, or at the proper level, or full of brown goo?

Dump the oil through a paint filter....
see how many parts are in the oil you can identify,,, doo hickey, doo springs, etc.

Pictures of this bike might be helpful, or entertaining...

Worse case scenario, pull the engine and have the guy in the brown truck send it off to Eagle Mike or Wyman Wynn in Cali. Go for a 685 or 705 kit and don't look back. Hell, this might be a gift

I put 34 K on my 2009 and never had such an issue. Curious how this shags out.
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Old 06-26-2015, 08:53 PM   #4
dhspam OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unstable Rider View Post
How often do you check the oil, and are you keeping the 'goats eye' covered, or just half ways?

you say "hot".... can you verify that your fan works?

The KLR is quite robust to abuse, negligence, TORTURE and pain, but two things will kill it quick, low or OUT of oil... and heat, if the fan is out or water is gone. Notably the gauges all show "hot" at long stop lights, etc., but if once moving again at a good clip, and if the gauge does not cool down..... "fan" comes to mind, or fan switch. Stuck thermostat maybe after that... but in all of those cases... "the damage is done" and it aint coming back.

Is the overflow jug empty, or at the proper level, or full of brown goo?

Dump the oil through a paint filter....
see how many parts are in the oil you can identify,,, doo hickey, doo springs, etc.

Pictures of this bike might be helpful, or entertaining...

Worse case scenario, pull the engine and have the guy in the brown truck send it off to Eagle Mike or Wyman Wynn in Cali. Go for a 685 or 705 kit and don't look back. Hell, this might be a gift

I put 34 K on my 2009 and never had such an issue. Curious how this shags out.
Fan is working, it's full of water. Oil was drained and filled to 3/4 the window on the sidestand, full while upright. Temp guage was only really high up there on a stop. I did the doo just before thia trip too.
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Old 06-26-2015, 08:58 PM   #5
Unstable Rider
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Awesum.

Which doo spring did you choose??

We did 5 or 6 doo jobs, and one fellow repeatedly was breaking springs, but he was not using the circular "clock" type spring. Even with those (torsion spring) we started dremeling a deeper groove for them to ride in, as they seemed capable of slipping off.

Chances are, your doo-job is fine- I like the other guys recommendation, and truly hopes that fix ya up.
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Old 06-26-2015, 09:17 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unstable Rider View Post
Awesum.

Which doo spring did you choose??

We did 5 or 6 doo jobs, and one fellow repeatedly was breaking springs, but he was not using the circular "clock" type spring. Even with those (torsion spring) we started dremeling a deeper groove for them to ride in, as they seemed capable of slipping off.

Chances are, your doo-job is fine- I like the other guys recommendation, and truly hopes that fix ya up.
I'm pretty sure it was the EM torsion spring. I did it down at a tech day at Haldor's place in PHX
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Old 06-26-2015, 09:25 PM   #7
Unstable Rider
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Keep us posted, and also post on the klr . net forum, someone will have gone through it likely before.

Jeez, I seen here you are new, where are my manors, welcome brother.

Say, I have something you might enjoy, PM coming your way.
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Old 06-26-2015, 09:48 PM   #8
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when full, oil should cover the window just before the bike is pulled level. the crankcase breather vents into the airbox & any excess oil drains to a small container under the swing arm (if it is still attached)

assuming bad fuel is not the problem.... my first guess will be the petcock or the vacuum line to the carb. pull the vac line.... any trace of fuel in that line indicates a torn diaphragm in the petcock, and fuel being pulled into the manifold past the carb. a sooty sparkplug further supports the bad petcock idea. a leaky vac line makes things lean & starves the carb at high power settings (clean/lean sparkplug indication).

next best guess is a sunk float, leaky needle & seat or fuel level set wrong. this makes things rich & soots the plug. test with a Vac source on the petcock & see if the carb overflows with the engine not running. or, put a piece of clear tubing on the carb drain, bend the tube up on the side of the carb (apply vac) & see where the fuel level is. obviously you need to open the drain. fuel should be about where the parting line is +/- .5mm.

another possibility is a clogged screen in the tank (petcock). apply a vacuum source to the vac line a see that fuel flows freely from the carb line. this can also be done by pulling the carb line & cranking the engine.

check the routing of the fuel line. if it gets close to the starter it can get pretty hot & vapor lock.... how do I know these things

good carb thing:

http://vulcangadgets.com/files/keihin_carb.html

valve check may be in order

sorry, Wyman Wynn no longer does KLR cylinders. he had a great kit but got out of klr's a couple years ago
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Old 06-27-2015, 09:58 AM   #9
byker
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I had a 2008 KLR, just sold with 107,000 kilometers. Around the 60,000 kilometer range I ran into a problem where the bike would cut out at highway speeds. I thought it was a vapor lock because after sitting at the side of the road with the fuel cap open for a few minutes it would start up and run fine for differing periods of time. Long story short, I replaced the stock fuel petcock, which is vacuum operated, with a Yamaha Raptor traditional style, non vacuum petcock. Problem disappeared. Just a thought.
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