Turn your KTM950 into AWD in 3,4,5,??? easy steps - Page 4

Olas · 11-11-2010, 07:11 PM

Wow. Thank you for sharing this!

Yellow Pig · 11-11-2010, 09:33 PM

Great Thread, Awesome Project, but where is that Rigid light picture you promised?

cjracer · 11-12-2010, 06:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yellow Pig

Great Thread, Awesome Project, but where is that Rigid light picture you promised?

I forgot the camera on the ride.

I'll head out tonight. Should be overcast and dark tonight.

cjracer · 11-12-2010, 06:49 AM

I start with a fixture plate mounted in the CNC.

Pick up the center of the plate w/ a Dial Indicator to find a zero point. I use CAD to draw up a bolt pattern to use toe clamps to hold the frame down. The ADV frames weigh about 24lb, and I can only hold onto the head. My machine is not large enough to secure the entire frame inside the machine. Fingers crossed......hope this works.

The bearings (top and bottom) are 2 differant sizes on the ADV, so I turned a couple adaptors that I can swap out when I flip the frame over. These adaptors fit into the base plate and locate the head tube so it won't move when cutting it.

cjracer · 11-12-2010, 07:31 AM

After I'm sure the frame is stable enough to take a light cut, I start to align the frame better. I remove the frame and pick up my bottom locator adaptor. That is my Zero point for the cut. Install the frame again and start to install clamps...... doing this by my self, I should build a ROBOT helper as I've run out of hands so many times.

With the bottom zero point established, I need to get the top bearing journal aligned to make the cut straight and not change the head angle. I indicate the front of the frame to make sure it is perpendicular.

And tram the bearing race to confirm I have the frame as perfect as I can get it forward and back, and left to right. I was with in .005-.010", and that could have been an out of roundness condition of the race, pressed into the tube. I feel that's good enough for this application. (That's about 2-3x the thickness of a human hair)

I made some small adjuster screws that could be tweaked against the frame to get the frame in alignment. Tedious process, but now is not the time to cut corners.

So now that I feel happy about holding onto the frame, how do you go about cutting it....??

The frame is almost 9" long and I haven't purchased the LASER cutting attachment yet.

I measure the Outside Diameter (OD) of the new Christini Head Tube. I find a BI-Metal Hole saw that has almost the same OD.

But anyone that has used a hole saw knows that it works off a pilot hole that is drilled into the material. I don't have that.

As I take a break and look out the window, I see I have some spys trying to see what's up.

dozer · 11-12-2010, 07:45 AM

Flanny · 11-12-2010, 08:02 AM

Cool dude. Keep it coming!

VertigoCycles · 11-12-2010, 09:46 AM

this is an INCREDIBLY interesting thread, thanks for sharing.

I know it's far too late for this project, but anyone who needs a fairly rigid method of putting an arbor on a hole saw for use in a mill would do well to look here: http://www.paragonmachineworks.com/s...pt-261336.aspx Probably cheaper than making your own.

Yellow Pig · 11-12-2010, 10:09 AM

This is better than porn!

Nailhead · 11-12-2010, 03:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cjracer

But anyone that has used a hole saw knows that it works off a pilot hole that is drilled into the material. I don't have that.

Starrett "Oops" hole saw arbor?

cyborg · 11-12-2010, 05:01 PM

Great stuff for us MechGeeks! Can't wait for the next installment...

Questor · 11-12-2010, 09:44 PM

Very hooked...

MOAR!

Q~

cjracer · 11-12-2010, 10:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VertigoCycles

this is an INCREDIBLY interesting thread, thanks for sharing.

I know it's far too late for this project, but anyone who needs a fairly rigid method of putting an arbor on a hole saw for use in a mill would do well to look here: http://www.paragonmachineworks.com/s...pt-261336.aspx Probably cheaper than making your own.

Thanks for the link.

Might be handy in the future....

BTW, how much would a TI 950 AWD ADV frame run?

Cool site.

cjracer · 11-12-2010, 10:38 PM

Yes, I did figure something out. The 1/4' drive that comes in the holes saw kits wasn't going to be rigid enough for this application. I also wanted something that would handle the pounding and vibrations an interrupted cut would produce.

The standard arbors I had found only had a jam nut, nothing to stop the hole saw from spinning if it got stuck or wedged while in the cut. There is a lot of surface area on this one. Looks like I'll need to make my own.

I found a chunk of round stock and got to work on the lathe. Then into the mill. Just enough room on the side of the frame setup to widdle this out.

It have 2 dowel pins that keep the hole saw from spinning and a small set screw give me a low profile inside. This would give me the longest depth of cut before the inside of the saw crashed into anything on it's way down.

1" shank to fit in my BT40 tool holder.

And now I have a rigid tool that's ready for some work.

On the left is the wimpy setup that's used in a Hand drill.

On the right is the new "Uber" Cutter.

This is a large Hole Saw.

FINNDIAN · 11-12-2010, 11:32 PM

11-11-2010, 07:11 PM	#46
Olas the darkness Joined: Aug 2007 Location: Englewood, CO Oddometer: 3,583	Wow. Thank you for sharing this! __________________ FS: Street Legal American Trail Killer!! Rebuild threads: '92 XT600, '87 XR250R Lighten up, Francis.

11-11-2010, 09:33 PM	#47
Yellow Pig Allergic to Asphalt! Joined: Oct 2004 Location: Colorado Oddometer: 5,980	Great Thread, Awesome Project, but where is that Rigid light picture you promised? __________________ So Many Idiots, So Few Comets!!!!!!!!!

11-12-2010, 06:49 AM	#49
cjracer ^OP AWD please!! Joined: Sep 2005 Location: Mukwonago, WI Oddometer: 3,864	I start with a fixture plate mounted in the CNC. Pick up the center of the plate w/ a Dial Indicator to find a zero point. I use CAD to draw up a bolt pattern to use toe clamps to hold the frame down. The ADV frames weigh about 24lb, and I can only hold onto the head. My machine is not large enough to secure the entire frame inside the machine. Fingers crossed......hope this works. The bearings (top and bottom) are 2 differant sizes on the ADV, so I turned a couple adaptors that I can swap out when I flip the frame over. These adaptors fit into the base plate and locate the head tube so it won't move when cutting it. __________________ My 2006 950S thread. 2006 950s update New product updates here! Wordpress BLOG click www.cjdesignsllc.com for the full line of products. www.outriderjournal.com FREE STUFF!!

11-12-2010, 07:31 AM	#50
cjracer ^OP AWD please!! Joined: Sep 2005 Location: Mukwonago, WI Oddometer: 3,864	After I'm sure the frame is stable enough to take a light cut, I start to align the frame better. I remove the frame and pick up my bottom locator adaptor. That is my Zero point for the cut. Install the frame again and start to install clamps...... doing this by my self, I should build a ROBOT helper as I've run out of hands so many times. With the bottom zero point established, I need to get the top bearing journal aligned to make the cut straight and not change the head angle. I indicate the front of the frame to make sure it is perpendicular. And tram the bearing race to confirm I have the frame as perfect as I can get it forward and back, and left to right. I was with in .005-.010", and that could have been an out of roundness condition of the race, pressed into the tube. I feel that's good enough for this application. (That's about 2-3x the thickness of a human hair) I made some small adjuster screws that could be tweaked against the frame to get the frame in alignment. Tedious process, but now is not the time to cut corners. So now that I feel happy about holding onto the frame, how do you go about cutting it....?? The frame is almost 9" long and I haven't purchased the LASER cutting attachment yet. I measure the Outside Diameter (OD) of the new Christini Head Tube. I find a BI-Metal Hole saw that has almost the same OD. But anyone that has used a hole saw knows that it works off a pilot hole that is drilled into the material. I don't have that. As I take a break and look out the window, I see I have some spys trying to see what's up. __________________ My 2006 950S thread. 2006 950s update New product updates here! Wordpress BLOG click www.cjdesignsllc.com for the full line of products. www.outriderjournal.com FREE STUFF!! cjracer screwed with this post 11-12-2010 at 07:36 AM

11-12-2010, 08:02 AM	#52
Flanny Flanny-it-up! Joined: Feb 2003 Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada, the World, the Universe Oddometer: 2,744	Cool dude. Keep it coming! __________________ Flanny Flanny-it-up!...Check out the FlannyMedia Web Site and Blog at www.FlannyMedia.Com

11-12-2010, 07:45 AM	#51
dozer Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Jul 2004 Location: slc ut Oddometer: 336

11-12-2010, 09:46 AM	#53
VertigoCycles Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Feb 2007 Location: Portland, Oregon Oddometer: 113	this is an INCREDIBLY interesting thread, thanks for sharing. I know it's far too late for this project, but anyone who needs a fairly rigid method of putting an arbor on a hole saw for use in a mill would do well to look here: http://www.paragonmachineworks.com/s...pt-261336.aspx Probably cheaper than making your own. __________________ Sean Chaney Vertigo Cycles Flickr

11-12-2010, 10:09 AM	#54
Yellow Pig Allergic to Asphalt! Joined: Oct 2004 Location: Colorado Oddometer: 5,980	This is better than porn! __________________ So Many Idiots, So Few Comets!!!!!!!!!

11-12-2010, 05:01 PM	#56
cyborg Potius Sero Quam Numquam Joined: Jun 2004 Location: Pacific NorthWet Oddometer: 4,396	Great stuff for us MechGeeks! Can't wait for the next installment...

11-12-2010, 09:44 PM	#57
Questor More Undestructable Joined: Oct 2005 Location: Idaho Falls. ID. USA Oddometer: 3,546	Very hooked... MOAR! Q~ __________________ Ride Reports: National Parks Tour 2008 Trans-America Trail 2009 Continental Divide Trail 2009 Alaska 2010 Empty West 2011

11-12-2010, 10:38 PM	#59
cjracer ^OP AWD please!! Joined: Sep 2005 Location: Mukwonago, WI Oddometer: 3,864	Yes, I did figure something out. The 1/4' drive that comes in the holes saw kits wasn't going to be rigid enough for this application. I also wanted something that would handle the pounding and vibrations an interrupted cut would produce. The standard arbors I had found only had a jam nut, nothing to stop the hole saw from spinning if it got stuck or wedged while in the cut. There is a lot of surface area on this one. Looks like I'll need to make my own. I found a chunk of round stock and got to work on the lathe. Then into the mill. Just enough room on the side of the frame setup to widdle this out. It have 2 dowel pins that keep the hole saw from spinning and a small set screw give me a low profile inside. This would give me the longest depth of cut before the inside of the saw crashed into anything on it's way down. 1" shank to fit in my BT40 tool holder. And now I have a rigid tool that's ready for some work. On the left is the wimpy setup that's used in a Hand drill. On the right is the new "Uber" Cutter. This is a large Hole Saw. __________________ My 2006 950S thread. 2006 950s update New product updates here! Wordpress BLOG click www.cjdesignsllc.com for the full line of products. www.outriderjournal.com FREE STUFF!! cjracer screwed with this post 11-12-2010 at 10:43 PM

11-12-2010, 11:32 PM	#60
FINNDIAN Mine goes to 11 Joined: Mar 2008 Location: Wawa, ont, Canada Oddometer: 1,551	__________________ The more side roads you stop to explore, the less likely that life will pass you by. ~Robert Brault. 2004 KTM 950 S GO!!!!(Blacked out),03 Beta Rev3, 1973 Rokon Trailbreaker 2x2 mk3 auto, 1999 Intruder 1500, 05 Ruckus, 90 DRBIG 800, 79 GS850My last location and updates-Ride Reports

Thread Tools	Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Email this Page	Search this Thread: .
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode