Rowe Electronics Power Distribution Module PDM60: anybody try one?

[Cerberus83]

I remember reading about PDM60 when it was first released and I was thinking about buying it, but after I found out that I cannot modify amps (w/o paying the dealer for it), I decided not to get one...

Is this still the case?

[pilot3]

Originally Posted by Cerberus83

I remember reading about PDM60 when it was first released and I was thinking about buying it, but after I found out that I cannot modify amps (w/o paying the dealer for it), I decided not to get one...

Is this still the case?

Go back a page or two and read the latest in this thread....no it is not the case.

[ngng]

Originally Posted by Cerberus83

I remember reading about PDM60 when it was first released and I was thinking about buying it, but after I found out that I cannot modify amps (w/o paying the dealer for it), I decided not to get one...

Is this still the case?

You'll be able to do it yourself at home shortly

[Cerberus83]

Thanks for the heads up! I did read the last page or two, but I was confused after reading RocketMoto's website:

"For a nominal fee, Rocket Moto's technicians will custom program the current capacity of each circuit, up to a maximum of 15Amps/circuit (60Amps total for the entire unit), enable delayed on/off timers per circuit, program circuits that are switched or always 'hot'."

I probably should have read the FAQ at the bottom of the page:

"I heard that there's a new version of the PDM60 that is end-user programmable. What's the story?
Rowe is planning to offer an accessory USB programming cable in the first calendar quarter of 2013. This cable, along with friendly Windows dashboard software, will afford a rider the ability to easily program the PDM60 to his or her preferences. All PDM60 V2's are dealer programmable, but units shipped prior to late February 2013 would require the unit to be returned to Rocket Moto for a firmware update to enable the end-user USB cable programming option. Rocket Moto will offer the firmware update at no cost to riders that have previously purchased units. Shipping costs to and from Rocket Moto are not included."

Guess I'm waiting till end of Q1

[RocketMoto]

Originally Posted by Cerberus83

Guess I'm waiting till end of Q1

We hope to have the USB cables in a few weeks.

[jscottyk]

Originally Posted by RocketMoto

...
In January 2013 (ie last week), the 2 pin SAE battery charger input connector was eliminated. PDM60's will no longer have this connector, and the latest batch that we received into our shop does not have the SAE conenctor, and it doesn't look like there's any possibility of it coming back.

Adam, can you comment on why this was eliminated?

[RocketMoto]

Originally Posted by jscottyk

Adam, can you comment on why this was eliminated?

There are a few reasons. This was intended as an *input* only for a low current battery tender, while it could be used as an output of up to 2 Amps, that wasn't the intended use.

Well, folks didn't read directions, would connect this to their heated gear or other high current draw item, and cook the PDM60. Secondly, it seems most riders didn't use it, anyway, so it was removed.

[jscottyk]

Originally Posted by RocketMoto

There are a few reasons. This was intended as an *input* only for a low current battery tender, while it could be used as an output of up to 2 Amps, that wasn't the intended use.

Well, folks didn't read directions, would connect this to their heated gear or other high current draw item, and cook the PDM60. Secondly, it seems most riders didn't use it, anyway, so it was removed.

Thanks for the info Adam.

[dholaday]

Originally Posted by RocketMoto

There are a few reasons. This was intended as an *input* only for a low current battery tender, while it could be used as an output of up to 2 Amps, that wasn't the intended use.

Well, folks didn't read directions, would connect this to their heated gear or other high current draw item, and cook the PDM60. Secondly, it seems most riders didn't use it, anyway, so it was removed.

I DESPISE it when those of us that know how to read and follow instructions lose a capability because of those who can't or won't.

And how the heck would Rowe know whether folks are/were using the pigtail?

GRRRR!!

[RocketMoto]

Originally Posted by dholaday

I DESPISE it when those of us that know how to read and follow instructions lose a capability because of those who can't or won't.

And how the heck would Rowe know whether folks are/were using the pigtail?

GRRRR!!

Believe me, I rallied to keep that connector many times - and even make the pigtail cable longer. I was overridden.

[tbsingleton73]

Installed a PDM60 on my F800GS. Install went well. Took my time over two-three days. Love it. Can't wait for the USB cable to program the unit myself.
I keep hearing the cable will be available in a few weeks but that's been for a while. Any more current info on when it will be available?

[ngng]

Random question...I have my PDM installed on my 09 GSA with one xenon ballast hooked up to an output. At high RPM, I notice the xenon flickering. Any idea why?

[ady-uk]

Hi all.
Ive just joined.

Basically I am in the UK and have received an email from a trusted UK supplier who is obviously selling these units.

I am interested but have a few questions.

Firstly I would prefer the ones pictures on the first few pages. The one with the push in connector so I could crimp / solder the terminals directly to the end of the cables I have and click them into the block. Also using earths into the block for a neater installation.

I hate the thought of splicing wires together mid way.

I just want the originat accessory cables terminated (+ & -) into the connector block.

Looking at the pictures I believe now the whole unit is set in a resin with the wires coming out of the resin. Can you confirm if this is correct?

If so I'll stick to my fuse box with screw down + - terminals

Ideally I'd love a PDM60
Must have push in connector block (dual row for + & -)
Must be programmable by myself.

Currently I have:~
Zumo 660 Sat Nav - 2amp - ignition on
Autocom - 3amp - Ignition on
Kenwood Radio - 3 amp - Ignition on
USB socket - 5amp - ignition on
Scott Oiler e system - 2 amp - Always on
2 pin optimate plug - 15 amp - Always on for pluging in tyre inflator or other accessory

The main power feed from battery to fusebox also has a 2 pin optimate connector, so in winter I can just unplug my the fusebox from the battery and plug in the optimate instead.

The PDM60 unit is smaller than what I have at the momeht.
I'd like to tidy my wiring up, make it neat but can't upgrade unless it suits the purposed as outlined above,

Thank you again
Ady

[pilot3]

Originally Posted by ady-uk

Hi all.
Ive just joined.

Basically I am in the UK and have received an email from a trusted UK supplier who is obviously selling these units.

I am interested but have a few questions.

Firstly I would prefer the ones pictures on the first few pages. The one with the push in connector so I could crimp / solder the terminals directly to the end of the cables I have and click them into the block. Also using earths into the block for a neater installation.

I hate the thought of splicing wires together mid way.

I just want the originat accessory cables terminated (+ & -) into the connector block.

Looking at the pictures I believe now the whole unit is set in a resin with the wires coming out of the resin. Can you confirm if this is correct?

If so I'll stick to my fuse box with screw down + - terminals

Ideally I'd love a PDM60
Must have push in connector block (dual row for + & -)
Must be programmable by myself.

Currently I have:~
Zumo 660 Sat Nav - 2amp - ignition on
Autocom - 3amp - Ignition on
Kenwood Radio - 3 amp - Ignition on
USB socket - 5amp - ignition on
Scott Oiler e system - 2 amp - Always on
2 pin optimate plug - 15 amp - Always on for pluging in tyre inflator or other accessory

The main power feed from battery to fusebox also has a 2 pin optimate connector, so in winter I can just unplug my the fusebox from the battery and plug in the optimate instead.

The PDM60 unit is smaller than what I have at the momeht.
I'd like to tidy my wiring up, make it neat but can't upgrade unless it suits the purposed as outlined above,

Thank you again
Ady

Nothing against what you've outlined to work for you, but the PDM60 is best utilised IMO in a butt splice/solder/heat shrink wire connection or watertight connectors.

Aside from not having fuses to deal with and being completely programmable (coming soon to your computer), its best feature is that it is water/shock/almost everything proof. If you go the screw down terminal route, I think you give up some of what you're paying for.

For me, the waterproof feature was the highest on my list and primarily why I chose this over the Fuzeblock or similar products. The biggest PITA for me on a trip is trying to hunt an electrical gnome with minimal equipment. Then, if you find it, repair is another issue.

Whatever you do, the PDM is a great unit even if you only take advantage of some if its features. I hate fuses.

p3

[ady-uk]

Originally Posted by pilot3

Nothing against what you've outlined to work for you, but the PDM60 is best utilised IMO in a butt splice/solder/heat shrink wire connection or watertight connectors.

Aside from not having fuses to deal with and being completely programmable (coming soon to your computer), its best feature is that it is water/shock/almost everything proof. If you go the screw down terminal route, I think you give up some of what you're paying for.

For me, the waterproof feature was the highest on my list and primarily why I chose this over the Fuzeblock or similar products. The biggest PITA for me on a trip is trying to hunt an electrical gnome with minimal equipment. Then, if you find it, repair is another issue.

Whatever you do, the PDM is a great unit even if you only take advantage of some if its features. I hate fuses.

p3

What if one of your items goes wrong or you just simply like upgrading and installing new products as they become available.

You have to chop the wires and resolder a new connection every time.
(sorry but no thank you, no way) I don't like excess wire so a few cuts and the cable is soon going to run out leaving be with a solid lump of resin and no wires left.

Besides every connector on a motorcycle has plugs / sockets.
At 12 volts / low amps, water splashes just don't cause that much of a problem.
My Fuzeblock, I currently use, has got throughly soaked and never caused a problem.
Too much emphasis is put on water and auto electrics. :(

I was trying to get clarification wether my findings were correct.
Have they really removed the plug in style wires.
It seems they have so I wouldn't buy a box that'll rapidly lose its useful lifespan, everytime the wires got cut!#

Sorry I'm really not interested in this anymore.
I was, still would be if it was what I saw in an early brochure (abeilt home programmable) but not now. not with non replacable fixed length wires that you can't affort to cut down or remove till required later and not without the corrosponding earth terminal option.

Shame that a product has moved backwards instead of forwards IMO

Sorry