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Old 12-09-2010, 07:13 PM   #61
srowe41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nesbocaj View Post
A question for Mr. Rowe,

Is there a need for a diode on the trigger wire for isolation?

Very cool indeed to have the Inventor's input here, thanks!
No diode necessary.
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Old 12-09-2010, 08:01 PM   #62
John Smallberries OP
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Pictures?

Hey Steve - where's the pictures??? I would still love to see photos of an actual PDM60 installation, regardless of what bike.
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Old 12-10-2010, 06:34 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JR356 View Post
It appears that the positive leads already come attached and the ground leads can be added as needed.
If you only use a few of the circuits you are going to be left with a big bundle of wires,or else you cut them off.
Too bad they don't sent the colored positive wires loose,like the grounds.Then you use only what you need.

Otherwise,seems like a nice system!

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a molex pin remover is $5 at radioshack. Or you can use a micro flat head scewdriver.
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Old 12-11-2010, 07:49 AM   #64
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What are the specs on the Molex pins themselves? I have a crimper and will make 'home runs' to my devices.
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Old 12-12-2010, 07:10 PM   #65
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Question for the group and especially Steve:

I have a PDM60 and I'm installing it on my F800GS. So far so good but I'm having trouble getting my new TrailTech SCMR16 HID Lights working. Specs on the lights are that they draw 30 watts individually which I think means 2.5 amps. I have them wired on a 15 AMP circuit on the PDM60 and they only work about 20% of the time that I try turning them on.

I have tried disconnecting one light and then whichever light is still hooked up works fine.

My current theory is that the HID system might have a very high initial current draw (more than 7.5 amps per light) that is causing the PDM60 to shut down the circuit.

Thoughts?
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Old 12-12-2010, 08:30 PM   #66
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HID Lights

Are you using a relay to turn them on? Can you substitute a double pole type and power each lamp from a seperate circuit?
Does the led for the circuit (on the power supply) indicate and error or overcurrent condition?
Do you have them possibly wired in series?
Do you have a volt meter with which to trouble shoot?
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Old 12-12-2010, 09:07 PM   #67
matt.the.ogre
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpallen View Post
Are you using a relay to turn them on? Can you substitute a double pole type and power each lamp from a seperate circuit?
Does the led for the circuit (on the power supply) indicate and error or overcurrent condition?
Do you have them possibly wired in series?
Do you have a volt meter with which to trouble shoot?
No relay. Wired directly to one of the PDM60 circuits.

I will likely have to power from a separate circuit, yet. But that will take up 2 of the 3 available 15 AMP circuits on the PDM60.

Yes, the PDM60 is showing a RED LED (not GREEN or ORANGE.)

I'm 99% sure I don't have them wired in series. I'm not even sure how I would do that. Currently I have +12V and GND running from the PDM60 to one of the lights. Then I am using a tap connector to link the second light to the same +12V and GND wires.

When I disconnect one light the other will work -- each light works on it's own with the circuit.

Yep I have a multi-meter to troubleshoot. I actually tested the circuit for current and the meter reads ~2 amps in steady state. And the start-up current goes by too quickly for me to see.
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Old 12-12-2010, 09:50 PM   #68
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HID Fault

Are you using the 'externally triggered' circuit or one that comes on with the ignition? Or do you have a switch?

I wonder if a good size filter capacitor across the circuit would help dampen that initial surge of current?
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Old 12-12-2010, 10:24 PM   #69
matt.the.ogre
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpallen View Post
Are you using the 'externally triggered' circuit or one that comes on with the ignition? Or do you have a switch?

I wonder if a good size filter capacitor across the circuit would help dampen that initial surge of current?
I've tried using both circuits: the externally switched one and the "always on" or in my case "switched with the ignition" circuit. No difference.

Capacitor: Tell me more! Would that go from +12V to GND or more likely in-line with the +12V line? (My capacitor theory is 20+ years old! )
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Old 12-13-2010, 01:06 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matt.the.ogre View Post
I've tried using both circuits: the externally switched one and the "always on" or in my case "switched with the ignition" circuit. No difference.

Capacitor: Tell me more! Would that go from +12V to GND or more likely in-line with the +12V line? (My capacitor theory is 20+ years old! )
I would try a capacitor across the power output (12v to Gnd). Perhaps you have a useless old PC laying around.... pull apart the power supply and look for one of those cans with screw terminals inside that has a 25-35V rating, 1000 mfd or more. That should do it as a test. As I think this through though I don't think the cap will help here - probably make it worse, because when the distribution device turns on it will have to charge the cap as well as try and fire up the inverters driving the HID lamp.

Time for some volt meter work. Let's think a moment......
What other loads do you have in service on the device right now?

Do your oem headlights only come on after the bike has started or do they go out while the starter is turning over?

Can you wire in a relay so you can turn on the distribution device circuit first, and then turn on the lights?

What are your battery voltages before and right after turning the lights on, at both the battery and the out put of the distribution device?

Do you have a measurable voltage drop on your wires, from either ground to the low side of the HID unit or from +12 to the high side?
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Old 12-14-2010, 10:05 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thetable View Post
I saw that, and I still can't come up with a reason to order it.
And now that it's not on sale, I just found a reason to order it...
Short in wiring for my heated gear caused me to blow the fuse, lost all my heated gear. If I read everything correctly, this would have reset as soon as I disconnected the wire with the short. Instead, I had to pull the bike apart in a parking lot to get to the fuse to the heated gear. $109 doesn't sound so bad after that experience.
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Old 12-28-2010, 02:49 PM   #72
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Just called Aerostich and sounds like they are waiting for their next shipment.

@SMRowe41, any idea when they might get it?
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Old 01-01-2011, 11:30 AM   #73
John Smallberries OP
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Laugh My Aerostich PDM60 install (with Kristas)

Well, it took me a solid 10 hours of planning and work (plus a few trips to the local hardware store), but my GS wiring project is done
Here is what I installed:
- Aerostich PDM60 power distribution module
- Clearwater Krista LED aux lights
- Autoswitch (for the Kristas)
- Stebel horn
I tied this into the '05 1200GS and integrated a few other existing add-ons
- dedicated circuit for heated gear
- iPhone power
- airbag jacket connection sensor
- battery tender plug

Here are the parts, out of the box:

Aerostich PDM60

Clearwater Kristas (ADVRider group buy - saved me 15%)

Autoswitch (sorry - blurry!)

Stebel horn (this sucker is LOUD!)

I spent a while thinking through the wiring plan.

Here is the final schematic.
I thought the best mounting location was in the area beneath my useless tool tray. So - out with the tray:


I thought I'd mount the PDM60 on top with the relays, wires, autoswitch and bus bars underneath


My daughter with the Lexan version

Lexan board populated with the devices.

Sidebar: Mounting the Stebel horn: how not to do it!
Following the directions in the box, I removed the stock horn and used this aluminum spacer that threads onto the BMW weld stud. Well -- mine was a bit corroded and hard to turn. You can see what I did:

Broke the stud off! I drilled a small hole through the bike brace ahead of the stud and installed a stainless through bolt, spaced with stainless washers. Problem solved.

The spacer stack is a bit out of focus. This shot is looking up from the front wheel.

OK - time to get naked:

The GS is surprisingly easy to disrobe, gas tank and all. While the hood was up, I changed out the air filter.

Mounting the Kristas: I used a BestRest light bar, but forgot to order the extra "wings" for mounting the Kristas horizontally. I improvised with aluminum spacers made from 3/4" bar stock and mounted them vertically. I may change this as I expect the horizontal mount may offer a bit better protection to the Kristas.


Now to string the wires down both sides of the bike.

I mounted the Krista controller behind the oil cooler under the beak and ran the wires back on the LH side in flexible conduit. I ran the wires from the turn signal cancel and two LEDs down the RH side.
Here is my low-tech LED mount:

One is the Autoswitch indicator to tell you what it is doing. The other is for my home-made airbag "tether is connected" sensor made from reed switches and magnets.

First trial wiring:

I connected everything up for a test run. The Stebel worked perfectly. (Warning - don't fire it up in a closed garage, like I did!) Neither the Autoswitch of the Kristas worked. The Kristas were on all the time and no switching worked. Doh!!! I went to bed frustrated.

This morning, I found my two wiring errors:
1) missed the tiny detail in the Autoswitch wiring diagram of a ground. (Note to electrical engineers: no ground - no power flow!)
2) I swapped two of the red Krista wires.
A few minutes later - I was in business: Autoswitch works great, Kristas as well

Time to neaten things up a bit by shortening the wires and using a few hundred zip ties:




Overall, it all works together well. I'm very happy with the Autoswitch as I wasn't sure where to mount the Krista on/off switch. With a bit more work, I know I can neaten up the wiring. I left the 3 unused PDM60 circuit wires bundled up, but could remove them from the connector. I'll also buy a some new battery post connectors and get rid of my excess wire loops.

As I write this, it doesn't seem like it should have taken a day and a half!!

I'll take a little run after dark tonight to aim the lights and ensure my heated gear circuit doesn't overload the PDM60.

OK - now I want to see someone else do an install so I can improve mine!
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Old 01-01-2011, 12:17 PM   #74
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Maybe easier on an RT? (no relays needed:GPS, Radar, and heat)
-Don't mind the two wires hanging down, heated seats.

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Old 01-01-2011, 03:20 PM   #75
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Rt

Your RT installation looks very clean and simple. Definitely not having the two relays and Autoswitch would be cleaner.

I need to get the black cloth tape as well as it sure hides the wiring well.

Thanks for the photo
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