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Old 01-31-2012, 07:40 AM   #1741
LukasM
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The factory engineer said Motorex 10W50 is fine down to -10C, below that if it gets hard to start we should try 5W40 or 5W50 or even better heat the right side of the engine cases with a torch. Really.
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Old 01-31-2012, 03:12 PM   #1742
cyborg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LukasM View Post
Very helpful feedback, thanks Cyborg.

I have also seen the 210W total capacity figure in the owners manual, but I don't know at what RPMs that will be available. I have a trick Fluke Ammeter clamp here and will do some testing of all the individual components once I figure out how to use that thing.

It will be interesting to see how much power it takes to make the bike run in bare minimum mode, so ignition and fuel pump. I am hoping there is quite a bit of surplus electrical power for running accessories and heated gear, we'll need it where we are going.

In order to maximize efficiency we are going with a 35W HID headlight (and using the Euro CEV switch so we can turn it off) and switching all bulbs to LED, so front and rear signals, tail light with integrated plate light and the dash lights.

Like you said the approach of using the available fused circuits would be really easy for a simpler setup, but since we are adding quite a bit of stuff it's probably better to have a separate fuse block. The Fuzeblock is really neat because it lets you individually set circuits to be on all the time (e.g. GPS) or switched. I will look into moving the headlight mask a bit forward to make more room behind it.
Lukas, I was thinking about how to test the load on the existing circuits on the Berg FE's, which you wanted to do.

I made this in-circuit fuse test cable. The fuse portion was disabled, then I Demeled grooves on one side down to the metal and soldered down 16 gauge wire and sealed in with super-glue (cyanoacrylate). Make sure nothing sticks out thicker than the original fuse body so it will still plug in easily. I added a quick disconnect to use as loop or pigtails.



You said you had a trick Fluke DC clamp-meter so you could plug this type of fuse test cable into any of the 4 fuse locations on the Berg and then clamp this loop or use the in-series Amp function cheaper voltmeters have.

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Old 02-01-2012, 03:50 AM   #1743
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyborg View Post
Lukas, I was thinking about how to test the load on the existing circuits on the Berg FE's, which you wanted to do.

I made this in-circuit fuse test cable. The fuse portion was disabled, then I Demeled grooves on one side down to the metal and soldered down 16 gauge wire and sealed in with super-glue (cyanoacrylate). Make sure nothing sticks out thicker than the original fuse body so it will still plug in easily. I added a quick disconnect to use as loop or pigtails.



You said you had a trick Fluke DC clamp-meter so you could plug this type of fuse test cable into any of the 4 fuse locations on the Berg and then clamp this loop or use the in-series Amp function cheaper voltmeters have.

Nice
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Old 02-01-2012, 06:25 AM   #1744
RickA
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Moving Headlight Forward...

Lucas,

Have a look at this KTM part:

http://shop.ktm.com/powerparts/navig...modelle-1.html

I use the 690 version on my 690R to give me space for GPS etc and it works fine - loads of clear space between forks and headlight mask. I also use a Trailtech twin light setup (the X2 ? ) and this also fits fine.

This should fit the Berg but you may have to use a KTM-shape headlight mask (because of the Berg front fender stiffener).

Hope this helps!

Cheers, Rick.
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Old 02-01-2012, 08:14 AM   #1745
Navin
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No talk of the death of the Burg 70 slopers and redefinition of the brand as a second string KTM leftover parts bin lineup? Blue Costco versions of current and past KTM tech is the future for Husaberg it seems. Saddens me as much as the BMW takeover of Husky.
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Old 02-01-2012, 09:23 AM   #1746
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This latest speculation really makes me glad I bought a leftover FE390. With no new 2012 4Ts being imported and the possible discontinuation of the 70-degree motors, these last FEs are likely to become an instant classic, stock up while you still can? Might have to add a 450 to the stable.

But then, buying KTMs at Costco does have a certain appeal, too. Probably rebranded as "Kirkland Signature Motobikes" though. I was in Costco yesterday, and picked up a flyer on the Costco pricing on Kawasaki. Great deals, but you have to buy a six-pack.
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Old 02-01-2012, 09:42 AM   #1747
cyborg
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My local dealer (Tasky's) said there is no news of cancelling the 70 degree bikes that he has heard of. He said no 2012's until the existing stocks on dealer showroom floors reduces. If anyone has better intel, lets hear it.
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Old 02-01-2012, 10:09 AM   #1748
Tarheel Wheeler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyborg View Post
My local dealer (Tasky's) said there is no news of cancelling the 70 degree bikes that he has heard of. He said no 2012's until the existing stocks on dealer showroom floors reduces. If anyone has better intel, lets hear it.
Been outta the loop for a bit and just catching up on the thread.

Same thing I heard from Genuine Dirt Racer. Did see a pic of a 2013 that looks like a rebadged KTM. Check out the Berg rally bike thread.

Thanks for the electrical info Cyborg.

Lukas, A few guys said the KTM part was nice, but didn't hold up under adverse conditions rally racing. Some info on bracket in other threads.
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Tarheel Wheeler screwed with this post 02-01-2012 at 10:23 AM
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Old 02-01-2012, 10:25 PM   #1749
cyborg
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Accessory power

Quote:
Originally Posted by HighFive View Post


HF
Spotted this gizmo on the Orange Crush forum, looks much better sealed than any of the other fuzeblocks -- to be able to live behind a wet exposed headlight fairing, but spendy.

http://www.aerostich.com/power-distr...module-v2.html

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Old 02-01-2012, 10:40 PM   #1750
cyborg
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Ceramic header coating

Took my FE390 header pipe to Performance Coating, had them coat with 2000F 'Satin Gray Ice' ceramic coating (inside and out) to reduce heat under the tank. The Gray Ice is a polished finish so dirt won't stick to it. They recommended it for dirtbikes. Great folks there.


Before





After












Finished up, and ready to re-assemble the rest of the bike.



Hope to test it soon.
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Old 02-02-2012, 06:07 AM   #1751
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Oil....running Rotella T Synthetic in my Bergs. Rotella is the brand Rekluse recommends, and is also what the guys at Genuine Dirt Racer (Berg dealer, racers and Nick Fahringer wrench) are running and recommended. No issues at all. Another good thing about it is that you can find it almost anywhere.

Cyborg, Regarding ceramic coating, the GDR gurus recommended ceramic coating only the mid pipe which is in close proximity to the tank. They found that ceramic coating the entire exhaust tended to push too much heat into the exhaust can casing packing to burn up quicker and a hotter surface temp. Also said they saw a slight decrease in engine power...not sure why.

Nice fuseblock find, but the cost.
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Old 02-02-2012, 07:54 AM   #1752
cyborg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tarheel Wheeler View Post
Oil....running Rotella T Synthetic in my Bergs. Rotella is the brand Rekluse recommends, and is also what the guys at Genuine Dirt Racer (Berg dealer, racers and Nick Fahringer wrench) are running and recommended. No issues at all. Another good thing about it is that you can find it almost anywhere.

Cyborg, Regarding ceramic coating, the GDR gurus recommended ceramic coating only the mid pipe which is in close proximity to the tank. They found that ceramic coating the entire exhaust tended to push too much heat into the exhaust can casing packing to burn up quicker and a hotter surface temp. Also said they saw a slight decrease in engine power...not sure why.

Nice fuseblock find, but the cost.

THW, guess it's too late for me now, I won't be chipping it off.
As for power loss, I'm moving down the power scale these days so I don't mind if I lose a percent or two. I see a lot of info online going both ways about coating headers but I'll be happy with the reduced heat around the tank and engine and we'll see what happens with the can.

I run Rotella T full-synth too. Rekluse recommends it for their clutches. Been running it for years in a few bikes, never any problems.

On that spendy solid-stare fuseblock, I think it's targeting the CANbus BMW crowd.
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Old 02-02-2012, 10:03 AM   #1753
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I have two words to say to that..

DAM SWEET!


Quote:
Originally Posted by cyborg View Post
Took my FE390 header pipe to Performance Coating, had them coat with 2000F 'Satin Gray Ice' ceramic coating (inside and out) to reduce heat under the tank. The Gray Ice is a polished finish so dirt won't stick to it. They recommended it for dirtbikes. Great folks there.


Before





After












Finished up, and ready to re-assemble the rest of the bike.



Hope to test it soon.
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Old 02-03-2012, 08:14 PM   #1754
GalacticGS
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Berg Rims

2011 FE570 with the silver Excel AL7 rims.

I just had the suspension revalved and adjusted for my weight (front and rear) by Bob at Pro-Action in Las Vegas. What a difference it makes - the stock suspension was just too soft.

I took it for a lengthy ride today to try it out. It just soaks up the whoops, and everything else. I ended up riding pretty fast on some single track in the Pahrump area. If you're familiar with the area, it has a lot of cross-grain washouts and some have some pretty sharp and firm edges. It's a bit rocky in places too. Still, the suspension worked perfectly - I'm really happy with Pro-Action.

But when I got home, I noticed I had a really severe dent in both the front and rear rims. The dent in the front rim is so bad that the bead of the tire is showing. I'd post pics but don't have my trasnfer cable with me so won't be able to until later in the week when I get back home. I was running about 15psi front, and 18psi rear. I've run simialr pressures on my Husky over the same terrain without a problem.

Anyways, has anybody else had a similar experience. Are the rims overly soft? Was my air pressure just too low? Any recommendations on stronger rims?

Thanks in advance...
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Old 02-04-2012, 04:11 AM   #1755
Bluetonguejak
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TT HID Headlight mounted high and forward

Quote:
Originally Posted by HighFive View Post
Now that there is a good idea. I don't like the tight fit of all my wires behind the headlight. Hhhhmmm.....please pursue this concept further, Sir Lukas.

HF
New to this thread.

Made universal mounts for TT HID assembly and double to mount my Rallye roadbook/fairing assembly.

Bars are raised about 60mm due to under bar damper and risers, so raised speedo and moved forward a bit so can be easily read.

Made ABS extenders for the rubber straps and now cable-tie the bottom of the light assembly as it came off the pins last weekend on the mx track.

Plenty of room behind headlight for additional wiring and auxillary gadgets.









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