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Old 12-17-2012, 08:57 PM   #3136
mrt10x
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Originally Posted by FamilyRider View Post
I am new to this forum, but not to Husaberg or other forums (DeeG on some other sites).

I have been using Dunlop D606 on my 2010 FE450, but it is time to replace them. I have a new Pirelli MT43 rear ready to mount along with a Tubliss set. I have read posts about the fit being tight and sometimes wearing a hole in the mud guard. It seems that some people have issues, while others do not. It also seems that the chain length may be different for different model years.

I really like the stock gearing (13/52 I think), but I haven't really tried anything else. Going to the larger MT43 will gear it up slightly.

I think the 2010 stock chain is 118 rolls. I have read posts of people solving the mud guard rubbing problem by going to a longer chain, but no one specifies the size. What size chain will solve the rubbing problem but not be too long to get the proper slack in the chain?

What type of chain is stock? I haven't yet sorted this all out - I have never had to mess with chains before. I would appreciate it if someone can give me a chain part number to buy.

Thanks,
This is what I know.. my FE570 had 13/50 and a 606 from the dealer... I put a MT43 with a 48 on it with the chain adjusters all the way out.. I put a few hundred miles on it this way and when I needed to adjust the chain I had to go back to the 50 rear. I dont know how many links were in the in the chain from the dealer.. sorry too lazy to go out and count them right now.
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Old 12-17-2012, 09:17 PM   #3137
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Originally Posted by UngaWunga View Post
Ok, my 2011 390 has an open connector around the battery as well, but brown and white wires. They're used to power the rear turn signals. I bought a KTM wiring harness to make my own streetlegal kit. So it's not really "unused". Maybe I can piggyback on it to close a relay for the grip power. I did that on a couple of different bikes.
I installed a set of turn signals as well (SicAss). The rear turn signals plugged into an unused connector up near the ECU, leaving the other one (which is down near the bottom of the shock) still available. According to the wiring diagram, I think it is x300, which has a brown wire and a blue/yellow wire. I am pretty sure it is for auxiliary power. The brown and green wires are the ones I added to run up to the headlight area.
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Old 12-18-2012, 07:41 AM   #3138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FamilyRider View Post
I am new to this forum, but not to Husaberg or other forums (DeeG on some other sites).

I have been using Dunlop D606 on my 2010 FE450, but it is time to replace them. I have a new Pirelli MT43 rear ready to mount along with a Tubliss set. I have read posts about the fit being tight and sometimes wearing a hole in the mud guard. It seems that some people have issues, while others do not. It also seems that the chain length may be different for different model years.

Thanks,
I've had holes wear thru the flap when using a 17" street tire, with the axle near the back of the swinger. Higher speed runs pushed the flap back enough to touch the tire and wear through. On slower speed or dirt riding, I imagine the tire can be fairly close and still be OK. The flap is only $12 at the dealer.
I've thought about putting an elastic tie around the bottom shock collar area and poke a small hole in the flap to fasten. It should keep the flap from bending back too far, but yet still allow up/down movement.
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Old 12-18-2012, 09:35 AM   #3139
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Originally Posted by rensho View Post
I've had holes wear thru the flap when using a 17" street tire, with the axle near the back of the swinger. Higher speed runs pushed the flap back enough to touch the tire and wear through. On slower speed or dirt riding, I imagine the tire can be fairly close and still be OK. The flap is only $12 at the dealer.
I've thought about putting an elastic tie around the bottom shock collar area and poke a small hole in the flap to fasten. It should keep the flap from bending back too far, but yet still allow up/down movement.
That is a great idea. I have heard that the problem is due to centrifugal expansion of the tire, which may be partially true, but the mud flap getting pushed back by the air movement makes a lot of sense. I will look into that after I mount my tire. If that isn't enough, then I will get a longer chain. Thanks for the great idea!
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Old 12-19-2012, 08:58 PM   #3140
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Mud guard

Inspired by rensho's suggestion, I installed a couple pieces of Velcro to secure my mud guard to the swing arm. I am not sure if it will work - the Velcro doesn't stick too well to the swing arm. I don't know if that is because it is so cold in my garage, or if it because of the rough surface.




I also noticed that there were a few wear marks on the guard caused by my D606 tire - probably during the few times I hit around 70 mph. My guess is that the wind blew the guard back into the tire, so if this Velcro sticks, it may just solve the problem of tire wear.
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Old 12-20-2012, 04:46 AM   #3141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FamilyRider View Post
Inspired by rensho's suggestion, I installed a couple pieces of Velcro to secure my mud guard to the swing arm. I am not sure if it will work - the Velcro doesn't stick too well to the swing arm. I don't know if that is because it is so cold in my garage, or if it because of the rough surface.




I also noticed that there were a few wear marks on the guard caused by my D606 tire - probably during the few times I hit around 70 mph. My guess is that the wind blew the guard back into the tire, so if this Velcro sticks, it may just solve the problem of tire wear.
I would get that type of velcro that has the more positive clicking teeth and loops.. like they use for EZPass mounting. I now use it for everything on my motorcycles. That normal velcro wont last at all for that application.. no way it is going to hold up to a 70mph wind. http://www.amazon.com/4-Strips-Repla...=ezpass+velcro There is a name for this stuff.. but I cant think of what they call it so I got lazy and just searched for EZPass velcro HD/Lowes/Ace hadware usually have the same thing.
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Old 12-20-2012, 07:47 AM   #3142
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3M Dual Lock.
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Old 12-20-2012, 07:57 AM   #3143
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FamilyRider View Post
Inspired by rensho's suggestion, I installed a couple pieces of Velcro to secure my mud guard to the swing arm. I am not sure if it will work - the Velcro doesn't stick too well to the swing arm. I don't know if that is because it is so cold in my garage, or if it because of the rough surface.




I also noticed that there were a few wear marks on the guard caused by my D606 tire - probably during the few times I hit around 70 mph. My guess is that the wind blew the guard back into the tire, so if this Velcro sticks, it may just solve the problem of tire wear.
I'd go with some elastic string, rather than velcro. The flap is moving up and down constantly against the swinger. I was thinking of the thinnest bungie cord you can find, 1/16" or less. The stuff they use as hold downs in toys and other packaging.
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Old 12-20-2012, 12:41 PM   #3144
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Duh. Of coarse the swing arm moves up and down. I replaced the Velcro with the 3M Dual Lock, which worked much better, but it took up about 1/8" of space. But it clearly isn't going to work with suspension. Time to rip it off before the glue sets up...
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Old 12-20-2012, 03:39 PM   #3145
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Anyone have trouble with a tight feeling, surging throttle on the road?

When riding on faster roads it feels like my throttle is tight and harder to turn. It also feels like very little input is needed so the throttle is very on and off. This combination makes my right wrist hurt and hand cramp up fairly quickly on the road. Makes riding it on the road kinda annoying. Seems like I am either accelerating or decelerating. This is my first street legal bike so maybe this is something I just have to get used to? Maybe a different throttle tube cam thing? Too much engine braking because of too much exhaust back pressure? Anything else I can do? The way it feels now I can't see how any of you do 100 miles on the road with this bike much less the several hundred miles some of you are reporting. I not really seem to notice it offroad since I am off and on the throttle.

In case it matters I am still on the stock six days tires, wheels have been balanced. Modified end cap, stock exhaust. 14/48 gearing.
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Old 12-20-2012, 07:16 PM   #3146
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Check the cables for the correct amount of play, there should be a little bit of play at the throttle. I fitted a #1 cam on to my throttle to give it quicker and more instant response, but that is on a 390.

For a 450 and 570 I would be trying a #3 or #4 cam on the throttle to smooth things out a bit.
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Old 12-29-2012, 02:58 PM   #3147
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These are the connectors Husaberg uses for the turn signal connectors:
http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...991-ND/1634732
http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSea...2R-JWPF-VSLE-S

Still looking for the connector used for the radiator fan kit so I can piggy back into that for the heated grips.
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Old 12-29-2012, 05:13 PM   #3148
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UngaWunga View Post
These are the connectors Husaberg uses for the turn signal connectors:
http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...991-ND/1634732
http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSea...2R-JWPF-VSLE-S

Still looking for the connector used for the radiator fan kit so I can piggy back into that for the heated grips.
The fan connector is generally folded back and sitting right underneath the frame, a few inches behind the radiators. I had to take the tank off to find it.
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Old 12-30-2012, 02:29 PM   #3149
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Some questions here, as im looking (maybe) to buy a used 450FE

Found 2 in local craiglist, at about half price than new

Model 2009, 4500km, 5200 CHF
or
Model 2011, 4800km, 6500 CHF

Both seems quite clean and have almost same mileage.

Witch one would you pick, considering year and price ?
Does a 2011 model worth the difference ?

Tanks for your comments

L
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Old 12-30-2012, 04:22 PM   #3150
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Krono View Post
Some questions here, as im looking (maybe) to buy a used 450FE

Found 2 in local craiglist, at about half price than new

Model 2009, 4500km, 5200 CHF
or
Model 2011, 4800km, 6500 CHF

Both seems quite clean and have almost same mileage.

Witch one would you pick, considering year and price ?
Does a 2011 model worth the difference ?

Tanks for your comments
L
Get the 2011. Better suspension and improved frame and stability over the '09. My .02
I have a 2011 FE390.
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