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Old 10-14-2013, 08:35 PM   #4396
Woundflatout
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bayarearider View Post
I am thinking about converting my 390 to a light-rally set up (safari front tank, & 70 degree tank for a total of 5 gallons) and a nav tower setup. If I had a 450 I wouldn't think about a big bore kit. But since I have a 390, I am wondering if anyone knows of a big bore kit to bring it up to 450 or close. I do have a 690 with a full rally set up that I used at the recently held at the 1st Baja rally, but I thought a 450 would be more better suited.
Another rally prepper here. I was thinking of just going Safari rear tank...not sure it will be enough for the next Baja Rally though. My buddy Angelo said the fuel stops were pretty close together...in your opinion how would the 570 be? I think Bajadad ran his 570?

Jason
2009 Husaberg FE570
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Old 10-14-2013, 09:13 PM   #4397
vintagespeed
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TPS check & adjustment in 5mins

purpose: reduce low throttle flame outs and hard starting, lean condition at idle

i thought I'd do a quick how-to on adjusting your TPS sensor. i've read some write-ups about measuring the voltage at the TPS, even some using a 5v power supply to measure the TPS signal.

i dont agree that using an external power supply to adjust the TPS provides any practical benefit other than confirming the TPS sensor is working. it's inaccurate because it doesn't measure what the ECU is actually seeing on the bike, through the bike harness. poor grounds or corroded terminals will cause high resistance in the TPS circuit and will cause the ECU to see a lower voltage than what is measured at the TPS itself. the only way to know what the ECU is actually seeing is to measure the TPS voltage at the ECU with the signal returning through all the connectors and grounds on the bike. plus, it's easy and you dont have to build anything!

to measure the signal return at the ECU, i used two metal sewing needles, i passed each needle through the connector at the ECU plug, without disconnecting the plug. i didn't pierce any wires so there is no future corrosion issue. simply pass the needles past the insulator and into the connector at the ECU.

the signal wire from the TPS is a yellow wire, number #5 at the ECU plug. the ground wire from to the TPS (and other sensors) is a black wire, pin number #24. both easily found on the ECU.

whole procedure should take about 5mins.

1. remove (or just loosen) the plastic cover over the ECU and slide the ECU out to the side where you can get to the connector.
2. slide your needles into the back of the connector on pin #5 (yellow) and pin#24 (black), DONT LET THEM TOUCH! there is only one solid yellow and one solid black wire on the ECU so you can't get the wrong wires.
3. measure resistance to ground (negative battery terminal) on the black wire in ohms to make sure you have a good low resistance connection, if it's fairly high then you'll want to clean your ground connections for the harness and at the battery.
4. connect your multimeter to the needles, red on the yellow wire (pin #5) and black on the black wire (pin #24).
5. jumper pins #5 & 6 on the diagnostic port (black/white and brown wires). this will power on the bike, you will hear the fuel pump prime and the headlight will turn on while these pins are jumpered. i used a high tech paperclip for this.
6. your multimeter will read out the voltage across the two pins.
7. adjust the TPS idle voltage by loosening the torx screw and rotating the sensor. counter-clockwise to increase the TPS voltage, clockwise to reduce TPS voltage. shoot for .64v with the throttle closed (idle position). it takes a little messing to get it perfect. when satisfied, tighten the torx screw.
8. hold the throttle wide open (engine should be OFF) and check max output voltage signal from the TPS.
9. disconnect the wires, remove the pins, remove paperclip from diagnostic connector and start the bike up and let it idle for 5mins to calibrate. not sure if this is actually necessary, but it's all over the boards...

now from my research on the web, i found very little about measuring the TPS voltage on a Berg, but many KTM articles. in the KTM articles they mention .64 for the proper TPS return voltage at idle, i do not know exactly what Husaberg recommends this setting to be.

when i measured my bike it was lean measuring .58v:


close up of the pins at the ECU:


adjusted TPS to .64v (note fancy blue paperclip my wife gave me):


wide open throttle measurement:


hope that's useful to someone out there!
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TAT-2013: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=913898
SoCal_NoDak-2012: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=829203

vintagespeed screwed with this post 10-16-2013 at 10:38 AM Reason: spelling, grammar
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Old 10-15-2013, 12:26 AM   #4398
n16ht5
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nice write up on the TPS

went riding this weekend


To Slate Peak 7,488ft




and some other places







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Old 10-15-2013, 03:55 AM   #4399
johnson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyborg View Post
Odd that they used Berg colors on a new Husky, but I guess anything goes now. Katoombergusky.


They were those colours from '83



through to '93


After that they went to variations of blue/yellow with much less white, until in '06 or '07 they oddly used Honda colours... which they used from 1903 until 1982.
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Old 10-15-2013, 11:35 AM   #4400
bayarearider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Woundflatout View Post
Another rally prepper here. I was thinking of just going Safari rear tank...not sure it will be enough for the next Baja Rally though. My buddy Angelo said the fuel stops were pretty close together...in your opinion how would the 570 be? I think Bajadad ran his 570?

Jason
2009 Husaberg FE570
Yes fuel range was not an issue at the recent Baja Rally. Bajadad had an excellent setup on his 570. He raced the NORRA 1000 earlier this year on his 690 (similar set up as mine) and was very happy with it. However he was glad to be on he 570 for this one and I felt the same. My concern is the power of the 390 in technical terrain ( mostly dunes, sand washes ) with the extra fuel load and the nav tower set up.
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Old 10-15-2013, 11:42 AM   #4401
bayarearider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scorpion View Post
Thinking the same thing. What's the downside of keeping the 390?
Granted that the goal was not podium finishes?
True, but I still think the 390 doesnt have enough power down low to go over dunes and long stretch of sand washes.
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Old 10-15-2013, 11:45 AM   #4402
Baja Dad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bayarearider View Post
Yes fuel range was not an issue at the recent Baja Rally. Bajadad had an excellent setup on his 570. He raced the NORRA 1000 earlier this year on his 690 (similar set up as mine) and was very happy with it. However he was glad to be on he 570 for this one and I felt the same. My concern is the power of the 390 in technical terrain ( mostly dunes, sand washes ) with the extra fuel load and the nav tower set up.
Your 390 would do perfectly fine
I am going to build a ktm 250 lights rally bike for my son
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Old 10-16-2013, 09:59 AM   #4403
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I have been wanting a Berg for awhile now but I don't see many around here. I think I may have found a low mileage 570.

Now that KTM is dropping Husaburg do you see any problems getting parts down the road? I know a lot of parts are from KTM's but what percentage are unique?

I plan on keeping the bike for a long time and am not to worried about resale value. I know that because they are no longer make that will effect selling value. I'm hoping that will help me out now.

Thanks
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Old 10-16-2013, 10:34 AM   #4404
vintagespeed
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Originally Posted by Tee2 View Post
...I plan on keeping the bike for a long time and am not to worried about resale value. I know that because they are no longer make that will effect selling value. I'm hoping that will help me out now. ...
i'm in the same boat, bought mine and i dont plan on letting it go EVER!

i think enough of the engine is KTM that there wont be trouble finding parts down the road.
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TAT-2013: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=913898
SoCal_NoDak-2012: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=829203
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Old 10-16-2013, 12:58 PM   #4405
bkowal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tee2 View Post
I have been wanting a Berg for awhile now but I don't see many around here. I think I may have found a low mileage 570.

Now that KTM is dropping Husaburg do you see any problems getting parts down the road? I know a lot of parts are from KTM's but what percentage are unique?

I plan on keeping the bike for a long time and am not to worried about resale value. I know that because they are no longer make that will effect selling value. I'm hoping that will help me out now.

Thanks
All the wear items (brakes, sprockets, bearings) are standard KTM parts.
The engine is standard KTM except for the cases which are slightly different.
A few things like the seat and air filter are specific to the Berg, but are still readily available.

The only issue in the future might be the availability of plastics if you want to keep the bike fresh looking.
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Old 10-16-2013, 04:23 PM   #4406
n16ht5
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I wont ever let mine go unless they start making the 70deg again. Its all KTM parts, and I have spare plastics. There isnt a bike I would rather have period.
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Old 10-16-2013, 06:13 PM   #4407
twotyred
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+1
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Old 10-16-2013, 09:17 PM   #4408
cyborg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n16ht5 View Post
I wont ever let mine go unless they start making the 70deg again. Its all KTM parts, and I have spare plastics. There isnt a bike I would rather have period.
Yep that's how I feel about my 390, and some spare plastics coming right now. No other bike I want for tough offroad I can think of.

It also has plenty of power to rip sand dunes with the competition map loaded and on the High/Wild map setting. Put a more open can on it and it will go even harder.

I'm personally fine with the OEM can, it's reasonably quiet and light and has a sparky built in (Krizman in the middle, not the perf plate end restrictor that "fell off" immediately), and gives plenty of performance.
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Old 10-17-2013, 02:33 AM   #4409
waldecker
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I was thinking of just going Safari rear tank...

A word of caution re Safari rear tank only: I have a 570 with both front and rear Safari tanks, and it becomes quite rear end heavy once the rear tank is filled, whereas with only the front tank it handles really good. I feel that the imbalance created by the extra weigt high up on the back without the extra weight up front to give it some balance will make your bike handle really "interesting".
I mostly now ride without the rear tank altogether....

Cheers
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Old 10-17-2013, 04:19 AM   #4410
GezwindeSpoed
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I only have the rear tank and indeed, completely filled it is pretty heavy high in the back, after 100km I do not notice it any more. Then the level is low enough not to mess up the balance. In total I can ride up to 300km. So when you do not need to fill it up completely it is oke.
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