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Old 07-19-2011, 11:28 AM   #871
p2im0
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chief_lee_visceral View Post
Beware of a false since of security unless you lock your bike to something two dudes in a van or pickup might just come by and do you wrong. I just got ripped of this way. Luckily it was the the Berg
Good point. I'd need some sort of storage on the bike to carry a cable-lock. Sorry for your loss!
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Old 07-20-2011, 06:33 AM   #872
Gargoyle
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I want to order a new set of tires this week. Several of you suggested going with a Bridgestone M59 front and Pirelli MT16 rear for New England riding.

Can anyone confirm what exact size for that tire combination will fit my 570 and work best?

(I see the stock tires are 90/90-21 and 140/80-18 but wondering if I couldn't go a little wider/deeper with this new set)

Thanks, Ross
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Old 07-20-2011, 07:30 AM   #873
Seth S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gargoyle View Post
I want to order a new set of tires this week. Several of you suggested going with a Bridgestone M59 front and Pirelli MT16 rear for New England riding.

Can anyone confirm what exact size for that tire combination will fit my 570 and work best?

(I see the stock tires are 90/90-21 and 140/80-18 but wondering if I couldn't go a little wider/deeper with this new set)

Thanks, Ross
You can go to an 80/100 on the front which will be narrower and taller. In the rear you might be able to find a 150/70 street tire but finding a dirt tire that wide will be a challenge.
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Old 07-20-2011, 06:44 PM   #874
Brown Dog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gargoyle
... 140/80-18 but wondering if I couldn't go a little wider/deeper with this new set)
Wider than the stock 140 rear tire is too wide for the stock 2.15" rim
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Old 07-22-2011, 03:03 AM   #875
Cruz
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Would a pinched breather tube on the 70 degree fuel tank cause the bike to lose power nearly straight away?

On the ride today, sometimes when I hopped off the seat or sat back down on it the bike would lose all power and then come back up to full power again.

Checked all the electric plugs under the seat and could not find anything wrong but did notice that the breather tube as it comes out of the tank is pinched, and would be fully closed as I sat down on the rear of the seat or possible as I moved around on the seat. Cannot replicate it without the seat on.

Will fit stronger actual fuel line to the breather and see what happens. May try to fit a right angle joiner there as well if there is enough room.
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Old 07-22-2011, 05:57 PM   #876
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cruz View Post
Would a pinched breather tube on the 70 degree fuel tank cause the bike to lose power nearly straight away?

On the ride today, sometimes when I hopped off the seat or sat back down on it the bike would lose all power and then come back up to full power again.

Checked all the electric plugs under the seat and could not find anything wrong but did notice that the breather tube as it comes out of the tank is pinched, and would be fully closed as I sat down on the rear of the seat or possible as I moved around on the seat. Cannot replicate it without the seat on.

Will fit stronger actual fuel line to the breather and see what happens. May try to fit a right angle joiner there as well if there is enough room.
Did you cut/grind the seat rib as suggested in instructions step 28? Regardless I'll put my thumb over the vent tube on the way home after work and see what, if anything, that does to the power.

Thats right my 570S is a bad ass commuter, rain or shine, granted its a whopping 4.5 miles each way
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Old 07-22-2011, 06:32 PM   #877
chief_lee_visceral
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I have pinched the vent tube with the seat and the only thing that happened was it stopped at about 100 miles after the last fill up. Opened that side cap and saw the level fall and then fired the bike back up and rode to a station. If you did "T" into the stock vent tube then as long as there is fuel in the main tank I am pretty sure that is not your problem.
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Old 07-22-2011, 08:29 PM   #878
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I run a 90 degree fitting on it and it works fine on the rear 70 degree tank. I do run the vent line up to the steering head and use an on off valve to open and close the vent. close it after filling and open it after you get down to half a tank. The sloshing back and forth between the 2 vents forces gas to come out the rear vent line no matter how high you try and place it in the front. On off valve is easy and costs very little. Allows you to get a full 3.2 gallons into the bike.
Under $20 at http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/117/443/=damsbo

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Indy Unlimited screwed with this post 07-22-2011 at 08:35 PM
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Old 07-22-2011, 08:33 PM   #879
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duken4evr View Post
I have what is probably an irrational need to replace auto tensioners with fully manual models on my dirt bikes. I like the simplicity of a nut and a bolt.

so are we gonna see a "convert your hussy to carb" thread in the future or do you only like simplicity on tensioners?
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Old 07-23-2011, 12:43 AM   #880
Cruz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ropedrag View Post
Did you cut/grind the seat rib as suggested in instructions step 28? Regardless I'll put my thumb over the vent tube on the way home after work and see what, if anything, that does to the power.

Thats right my 570S is a bad ass commuter, rain or shine, granted its a whopping 4.5 miles each way
Yep, did the cut and grind to give the tube room and cut off the tab at the rear to give it the room needed.

Played around with it again today as I thought it had to be electrics to stop the motor so quickly. Found a cracked tab on the positive battery terminal, causing the problems. Will pick up a new battery.

Anyone using the Lipo type batteries such as Shorai and Anti Gravity in their Berg? Will pick up a Motobatt otherwise.
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Old 07-23-2011, 07:53 AM   #881
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Indy Unlimited View Post
I run a 90 degree fitting on it and it works fine on the rear 70 degree tank. I do run the vent line up to the steering head and use an on off valve to open and close the vent. close it after filling and open it after you get down to half a tank. The sloshing back and forth between the 2 vents forces gas to come out the rear vent line no matter how high you try and place it in the front. On off valve is easy and costs very little. Allows you to get a full 3.2 gallons into the bike.
Under $20 at http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/117/443/=damsbo


Where do you mount the valve? Do you recall what ID you ordered? Thanks.
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Old 07-23-2011, 04:28 PM   #882
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I also found that gas could slosh into the 70 Degree tank's vent line. The fuel accumulated at a low point in the line and basically plugged it. As a result, the 70 Degree tank level would not seek a common level with the main tank.

I put a small 1 way check valve for a normal gas cap in the vent line for the 70 Degree tank, right where the vent tube comes out of the 70D tank. Fill the main tank full, and the 70D will fill slower than normal due to the check valve, but it still fills. Takes a couple of minutes or so. Then I just top off the main tank (if I wnat the system full all the way) and am good to go. The valve keeps the fuel out of the line, yet slowly allows the air to move through as the tank fills.

Literally a "cool" pic from today's ride. 35' high snowdrift across the Webster Pass trail. I don't think we will be getting past this spot this year!

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Duken4evr screwed with this post 07-23-2011 at 04:39 PM
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Old 07-23-2011, 06:44 PM   #883
Indy Unlimited
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1/4" polypropylene valve is what I use and it is cable tied to the side of the frame up by the steering head on the left side.
I also tried the one way valve makes it to slow to fill up for my liking that is why I use the on off valve.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Navin View Post
Where do you mount the valve? Do you recall what ID you ordered? Thanks.
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Old 07-23-2011, 07:02 PM   #884
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Noted, thanks!
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Old 07-23-2011, 07:31 PM   #885
Brown Dog
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This 1/4" inline fuel shutoff valve is very small & obtainable at many lawnmower shops

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