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Old 11-25-2010, 07:42 AM   #16
dentvet
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it looks like the scratches are from the carbon on top of the piston kissing the cylinder. there is a halo of bare piston all the way around until you get to the area that is scratched. doesn't look that bad to me. have to measure if your worried its out of round.
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Old 11-26-2010, 11:50 PM   #17
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revperf.com is a better source for 1250 kits. much better jugs, but a little bit more pricey. well worth it.
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Old 11-27-2010, 04:49 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dentvet
it looks like the scratches are from the carbon on top of the piston kissing the cylinder. there is a halo of bare piston all the way around until you get to the area that is scratched. doesn't look that bad to me. have to measure if your worried its out of round.

I think sir that you have nailed it.

But, I'm afraid I have to go a bit (a LOT) deeper than I had planned.

It would seem that 90% of the fasteners on this bike are seized or cross threaded.

I'm going to make it a long term winter project and take it completely apart

and fix all the evils bestowed upon it by previous owners. Hell, I can't even get

the swingarm isolator bolts out.

The sad current state of affairs.
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Old 11-27-2010, 05:52 AM   #19
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The older swingarm isolator bolts (the version using the 1/2 Allen wrench) are indeed a PITA to deal with, usually seizing in the bearing adjusting "bolt". Make sure you use the updated isolator kit with the new, button head Torx bolt. There's a updated front exhaust mount too, so make sure you use that when reassembling the bike.

Also, the frame comes OFF of the engine/swingarm mount block/swingarm as a unit (with the front end complete) easier than the other way around. Use a jack/lift/swingarm stand to support the powertrain, remove the two pivot bolts and the one Isolator bolt through the front isolator and the frame will come off as a unit. leaving the powertrain behind.

As for the powertrain, I tend to prefer the Nikasil lined cylinders for hi-perf applications, as I've had the liners come unbonded from the aluminum, causing head gaskets to fail. I've been running the Revolution cylinders for 90k+ miles (installed at about 18k on the bike-I forget exact mileage) and when I had it apart at 90k, the bores ware still perfect after many years of flogging it mercilessly.

There are a few more updates/tweaks that'll make the bike much more enjoyable, so keep posting and I'll do my best to help along the way (BTW, I've been a certified Buell tech/owner for quite a while now-I'm pretty familiar with the Tubers having owned my S3T for 120K miles/10 years).
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Old 11-27-2010, 06:04 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motomedic
There are a few more updates/tweaks that'll make the bike much more enjoyable, so keep posting and I'll do my best to help along the way (BTW, I've been a certified Buell tech/owner for quite a while now-I'm pretty familiar with the Tubers having owned my S3T for 120K miles/10 years).
Thanks for popping in. First question. Is the later aluminum Cyclone swingarm

interchangeable with mine? I was thinking of replacing the whole swingarm

mounting block and swingarm with one from ebay. I shall be bending you ear from time to time.

Today I was going to lower the whole thing onto wodden blocks on the

floor, lift the frame off and go from there. The factory loom is chopped

all to heck so I'll be replacing that too. Fortunately parts are cheap and plentiful

unlike the 98 Tiger I traded for it.
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Old 11-27-2010, 06:40 AM   #21
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I don't know anything about buell/harley, but isn't that an enormous amount of carbon? Was there perhaps a head gasket or valve seal leak allowing an abnormal amount of oil to be burnt?

As a matter of simple curiosity, is the cylinder aluminum or steel and does it use a liner or is it plated?
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Old 11-27-2010, 07:06 AM   #22
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The alloy swingarm will go into the older mount block with some, ahem, relieving. Better to just get the newer mount block. While you're looking, the last generation of Tubers had the best rear shock- it's the short one with the LARGE D-shaped rear eye (and make sure you have the right front shock mount too). Even better- a Works Performance or a Penske (the Works ain't as $ as a Penske, but works just as well). Any of the earlier Showas (especially if it has that dumb-ass anti-catastrophic failure device installed) or White Powers are prone to seal failure, as well as poor performance.
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Old 11-27-2010, 07:08 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BikePilot
I don't know anything about buell/harley, but isn't that an enormous amount of carbon? Was there perhaps a head gasket or valve seal leak allowing an abnormal amount of oil to be burnt?

As a matter of simple curiosity, is the cylinder aluminum or steel and does it use a liner or is it plated?
That's a bit much (carbon), but remember air-cooled engines run larger tolerances so they tend to burn a bit more oil.

And it's an alloy barrel with a cast-in, non-replaceable iron liner. There are a couple of plated alloy cylinders on the market too, but that there is the stock one.
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Old 11-27-2010, 08:04 AM   #24
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I think it has a lot to do with the ham fisted previous owner. He insisted on "fixing"

the exhaust leak before I picked it up. When I started taking it apart I found:

No exhaust manifold gaskets.

1 missing exhaust header nut.

Massive leak in carb/inlet manifold junction.

Only 2 of the 3 screws that hold the forcewinder airfilter elbow were there.

And on and on and on. I'm sure these contributed to an A/F ratio that was all over the place.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BikePilot
I don't know anything about buell/harley, but isn't that an enormous amount of carbon? Was there perhaps a head gasket or valve seal leak allowing an abnormal amount of oil to be burnt?

As a matter of simple curiosity, is the cylinder aluminum or steel and does it use a liner or is it plated?
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Old 11-27-2010, 09:10 AM   #25
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Thanks MM and BC, I'm about 85% sure I'm buying a buell before too long and trying to learn the bread. I've messed about with air cooled four strokes just a little, but only Japanese thumpers (no oil burning or carboning up). Anyhow, sorry for the digression.

BTW the plated aluminum cylinder sounds very nice - surely the improved heat transfer is of particular use on an air cooled motor

I must admit I'm also quite curious about the 90" kit on revperformance's website, could make for a rather interesting Uly I think...
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Old 11-27-2010, 03:04 PM   #26
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The thread I started about my Buell:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...ht=tuber+lives

After I found the second dead speedo in a box, I had to re-juggle my mileage memory- the bike actually has closer to 120k on it. It's on it's third speedo (one crashed, one died), and the mileage isn't resettable outside of the factory.
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Old 11-28-2010, 06:09 AM   #27
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B. Curvin- Sorry you ran into issues almost right off the bat. Nothing worse than ham-fisted previous owners.

One thing that people seem to universally agree helps these engines last longer is a proper warm up. Hammering on a cold air-cooled engine (at least HD/Buells) is a sure way to cause gasket leaks and other problems. A good way to handle it is make the habit to crank the bike before you don your ATGATT. By the time you're ready to ride, the bike is ready too, but still take it easy for a few miles until the engine comes up to full temperature.

Then feel free to hammer as required.
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Old 11-28-2010, 07:13 AM   #28
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One thing to note is that harley parts are really, really cheap.
About ten years ago when my friend was racing buells, he was getting new cylinders at dealer cost for $60 each, iirc.

So, maybe check out the dealership pricing before you spend money at the machineshop....
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Old 11-28-2010, 09:00 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hughlysses
One thing that people seem to universally agree helps these engines last longer is a proper warm up. Hammering on a cold air-cooled engine (at least HD/Buells) is a sure way to cause gasket leaks and other problems. A good way to handle it is make the habit to crank the bike before you don your ATGATT. By the time you're ready to ride, the bike is ready too, but still take it easy for a few miles until the engine comes up to full temperature.
+1

I usually recommend waiting until the rear cylinder fins are uncomfortably warm before riding away.

A tidbit of info to help illustrate this point- a Sportster/Buell engine will grow about .1" taller at operating temp. Clamp loads on the head gasket goes from your girlfriend sitting on your face to the whole zoo's cadre of elephants sitting on your face.
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Old 11-28-2010, 01:25 PM   #30
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Thanks for the info guys. Feel free to keep it comin. I'll definitely be checking

prices on OEM cylinders. Never considered it til now but a new set of cylinders

and new rings might just set me right. Pics below on where I got to today. If I'm actually

home some this week I'm going to organize the shop then clean the hell out of all

the bike parts. Engine, frame, remove wiring harness etc etc. I found a used (good)

swingarm and mounting block for 120.00. I'm waiting for a reply on that and a load of

really nice OEM take off parts.

The current status. The rear engine mounts did NOT want to come out

of the frame with the isolator bolts still in.

P.S. The rear connecting rod feels gooood. A tiny tidge of side to side movement

but zero up and down. sweeeeeeet.


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