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Old 10-28-2013, 09:16 PM   #2131
jdrocks OP
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finally got back in the shop for a few minutes...

frame prepped for paint.



cleaned up the swingarm, sanded out some nicks and scratches. the parts bike was an 09 ER6, so i didn't have to source one of these late model swingarms.



the 06-08 swingarms have a rectangular section, whereas the 09 has a D section, so they are easy to distinguish. "D" section is the stronger of the two.



set the adapters in the lower Versys clamp with some cylinder sleeve adhesive.



the slot in the adapter lines up with the clamp. the adapter is .5mm shorter than the clamp so that the adapter seats perfectly to the shoulder.

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Old 11-01-2013, 05:03 PM   #2132
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How is your painter doing this time around?

David
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Old 11-01-2013, 05:43 PM   #2133
jdrocks OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MTrider16 View Post
How is your painter doing this time around?

David
i had a feeling someone would ask.
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Old 11-01-2013, 06:02 PM   #2134
jdrocks OP
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i got around to spraying some parts so i could start bolting the new bike together. i would say painting, but that would tend to malign any spray painter who actually knows what the heck he's doing.

anyway, the frame is painted...more or less. this frame was no easier to paint than the last one, haven't learned a thing i reckon.



i know one thing, it's not the paint. i've looked at all kinds of different paints and sources when purchasing paint, but i've stayed with the Summit Racing branded automotive paint in urethane. it's inexpensive as paints go, and if you get somewhat competent spraying it, it's sorta the poor man's powder coat, a very durable finish. this frame is sprayed Hot Rod black in a medium luster finish, same as the last one.
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Old 11-01-2013, 06:31 PM   #2135
MTrider16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdrocks View Post
i got around to spraying some parts so i could start bolting the new bike together. i would say painting, but that would tend to malign any spray painter who actually knows what the heck he's doing.
In your defense, that doesn't look like a very easy peice to paint.

David
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Old 11-02-2013, 07:08 AM   #2136
jdrocks OP
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Originally Posted by MTrider16 View Post
In your defense, that doesn't look like a very easy piece to paint.
frames aren't easy, and you're also fighting certain characteristics of urethane paint.

the best way would be to mount the frame on a rotating engine stand as suggested by ktmklx, ain't got one of those in the shop.

one thing i do know about spraying this kind of paint, forget about trying to spray in a cool shop, won't work worth a damn.

i asked a body shop man what kind of temp he likes for this paint, he said "about 100 degrees". well, ya don't need 100, but you get the idea.
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Old 11-02-2013, 06:20 PM   #2137
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gotta get some wheels under this thing...swingarm and clamps mounted.



as mentioned earlier, the 2009-11 ER6 swingarm comes with the OEM hugger and blockoff plate, two more necessary items crossed off the list. if using this swingarm, you need the whole assembly because the axle, axle pads, and adjusters are not the same as the 2006-08 parts.

the ignition switch was removed from the ER6 top clamp and installed in the Versys top clamp. the OEM installation mounts the switch with what looks like a pair of rivets, but they're really threaded fasteners with a security head. the heads need to be removed so the switch can lifted out, then the remaining studs can be gripped with a channel lock or similar. don't mess it up.

jdrocks screwed with this post 11-02-2013 at 06:31 PM
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Old 11-03-2013, 03:24 PM   #2138
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i have a shock, but i need to do a little work on it before it gets mounted, no problem, i threw in a temporary strut with the same mounting centers so i could keep going.

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Old 11-03-2013, 04:27 PM   #2139
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with the strut in place, i could drop the swingarm onto a paddock stand, support the front, and mount the huge 49mm DRZ conventionals in the Versys clamps. the forks project 20mm from the top of the clamp to the fork cap, a good starting point for the suspension setup.

black DRZ forks are very hard to find...

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Old 11-03-2013, 05:27 PM   #2140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdrocks View Post
black DRZ forks are very hard to find...
A suspicious person might ask if they have Summit Racing Hot Rod Black urethane on them. Of course I'm not a suspicious person.

Looks like a great start, although procuring parts has taken considerable time already.

On a side note, I think I took the big Honda for its last ride of the season. Man, she just begs to be taken over a ton, just twitch of the wrist...

David
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Old 11-03-2013, 06:01 PM   #2141
jdrocks OP
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Originally Posted by MTrider16 View Post
A suspicious person might ask if they have Summit Racing Hot Rod Black urethane on them. Of course I'm not a suspicious person.
that's good, because i just said black was hard to find...not impossible.



surprised you're riding this late in the season. the cop motor will pull a ton somewhere around 8000, 11,500 redline, but i don't do that much anymore.
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Old 11-03-2013, 06:18 PM   #2142
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i happened to find a real nice 19" DL1000 wheel that came with a 95% Shinko 705, good tire, and will make a useful roller until i mount something else.

for this brake setup, i mounted an 8 button 320mm rotor with a closed center. i've already run a 300 and 310mm rotor, had a decent 320 and wanted to try that size. all i need to do is to fab a new caliper adapter, in addition to trying out some other system components.



the right side just needed the blockoff plate i cut out of a SV rotor, also closed center.

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Old 11-03-2013, 07:42 PM   #2143
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have the forks, have the front wheel, need an axle. there are several options here, but like the last build, i picked the easy one.

the Versys/ER6 swingarm bolt is a good solution for the front axle and requires no machine work, just thread and cut to length.



the bolt is 20mm, same as the DL1000, but the right side axle lug on the DRZ fork leg is set up for a shouldered axle, no problem, just use the 20mm DRZ axle sleeve with the swingarm bolt, perfect fit.



the photo shows the axle bolt projection past the left side lug before it is cut. the darker section of thread is new, threaded with a commonly available M20x1.25 die. do yourself a favor and thread the bolt before you cut it, much faster since you don't have to fiddle with starting the die perfectly square. use cutting oil for near perfect threads.

when cutting to length, the only variable would be the type of nut you use, with a castle nut requiring a little more length. the fork legs have 4 pinch bolts on the lugs, so i use the nut that is originally used with the bolt. relieve the edge slightly after cutting so that the nut starts nice and easy, then run the die again to a depth of about 15mm to clean up the threads.

the spacers used are a pair of 20mm DL1000 spacers, no cutting necessary, can't be any easier than that.

start to finish, the whole operation takes about 20 minutes.
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Old 11-03-2013, 08:24 PM   #2144
jdrocks OP
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wheel mounted, bar riser with bars.



i've been using ProTaper SE ATV HIGH bars for about 4 years, they seem to match the bike pretty well. the bike always looks crazy high at this stage, the bar ends must be about 60" off the floor
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Old 11-03-2013, 08:28 PM   #2145
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdrocks View Post
when cutting to length, the only variable would be the type of nut you use, with a castle nut requiring a little more length. the fork legs have 4 pinch bolts on the lugs, so i use the nut that is originally used with the bolt. relieve the edge slightly after cutting so that the nut starts nice and easy, then run the die again to a depth of about 15mm to clean up the threads.
One thing I like to do when cutting a bolt is to thread a nut on beforehand. I then belt-sand the cut and remove the nut. Removing the nut helps straighten any non-perfect threads.

Do you have another technique?
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