ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Some Assembly Required
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 04-07-2011, 07:37 PM   #736
jdrocks OP
Gravel Runner
 
Joined: Jul 2007
Oddometer: 3,864
i was asked about the condition of the air filter after running gravel roads. the airbox intakes on the bike are high and don't seem to suck a lot of road dust. this filter has about 10,000 miles on it, maybe 2,500 of those being gravel road. you can still see light through it, but it needs to be cleaned.



wouldn't hurt to check it if you find yourself in extreme dust. i carry a spare filter on trips.
jdrocks is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2011, 05:38 PM   #737
wcohl
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Nov 2008
Oddometer: 262



JD,

Your fuel lines look very similar to the ones on a Yamaha FZ1. One of the problems with the FZ1 fuel line is kinking of the plastice tube. An easy fix is to carefully cut the OEM fuel line off the OEM connectores and install some 5/15 rubber FI hose and FI clamps. If the lines you're using don't give you what you want, replacing them with rubber FI hoce may be an option.
wcohl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2011, 05:09 AM   #738
jdrocks OP
Gravel Runner
 
Joined: Jul 2007
Oddometer: 3,864
Quote:
Originally Posted by wcohl View Post




JD,

Your fuel lines look very similar to the ones on a Yamaha FZ1. One of the problems with the FZ1 fuel line is kinking of the plastice tube. An easy fix is to carefully cut the OEM fuel line off the OEM connectores and install some 5/15 rubber FI hose and FI clamps. If the lines you're using don't give you what you want, replacing them with rubber FI hoce may be an option.
something to think about there, thanks for the input. i've even used regular braided fuel line as a temporary field repair, not ideal, but it got me home.

it's hard to get a photo, but the problem here is that the hose barb on the fuel pump puts the outlet at an inconvenient location which presents some problems. without the OEM prebend, there's not enough room to get a straighter connection on the barb without straining that plastic piece, or kinking the hose. the 650R line will make the connection if rerouted, and i have started and run the bike that way, but i don't think it's a good long term solution.

kawasaki wanted to run the same fuel pump, and the only way to get it into the different shape of the Versys tank was to rotate it at the mount.

another note for those that may have to change this fuel line. the hose connections at both ends are identical and the hose barbs at the pump and throttle bodies also appear identical. getting the hose off and on at the throttle body connection was a pure bitch. the internal o-ring looks the same, but the connection was a very tight fit. it's plastic, don't break anything.
jdrocks is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2011, 07:15 AM   #739
NDTransplant
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Casa Grande, AZ
Oddometer: 359
JD- I just wanted to say, as has been said by many others, you're attention to detail, patience, ingenuity, and overall bike builds are really remarkable, and are an inspiration to even those of us who don't have the unique fabricating skills and vision that you have. Thumbs up, buddy!!!!!
NDTransplant is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2011, 04:43 PM   #740
jdrocks OP
Gravel Runner
 
Joined: Jul 2007
Oddometer: 3,864
Quote:
Originally Posted by NDTransplant View Post
Thumbs up, buddy!!!!!
thanks, but as far as attention to detail...i just noticed i was riding around the other day with no right front motor mount bolt installed.
jdrocks is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2011, 05:02 PM   #741
ky2008
2008KLR
 
ky2008's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2008
Location: Ashland, KY
Oddometer: 111
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdrocks View Post
thanks, but as far as attention to detail...i just noticed i was riding around the other day with no right front motor mount bolt installed.
Wow, close call......

The other day I did some stuff to my jeep and test drove it before I tightened up the front lug nuts. I only made it about 1/2 a mile before I noticed.

Keep up the good work! I check this thread several times a day.
ky2008 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2011, 05:25 PM   #742
jdrocks OP
Gravel Runner
 
Joined: Jul 2007
Oddometer: 3,864
found time to mount the model 44 LED lights from ADV Monster here on the forum. these lights are very compact size wise, but John claimed i'd be amazed at how bright they are. "it's about the lumens not the watts." ok. let's see what they're about.

i like all soldered connections, but always start with uninsulated crimp connectors and go from there. the connectors are available in inexpensive bulk packs from places like Radio Shack, and makes soldered connections faster and easier, no twisted wires. it helps to have a crimper with a small tooth so that the connectors are crimped but not deformed. the crimp is always opposite the seam.



i had a set of quick connects from a different set of Piaa lights, so these were soldered on the LED light leads. don't forget to slide the shrink wrap on before you solder. i spray the soldered area to clean away any flux.



for all these soldered connections, i brush on some liquid electrical tape before sliding the heat shrink into position and using the heat gun. the liquid tape is heat sensitive and completely fills any voids while the tube shrinks.



connections are complete, but i add armor to the cable leads before installation. i also slightly relieved the light mounting base bolt hole to .250 so i could use a 1/4x20 SS fastener. very easy with a small tapered stone.



my light mounts had a 10mm hole, but i was able to quickly make up a pair of SS sleeves to reduce the diameter for the smaller diameter fastener. on with the lights. they fit the bike well, and i really like how they are tight inboard.



John said these lights are bright, but these lights are just crazy bright. wow. i'm not sure how to get a photo of these things in action, camera might explode, so i took a shot from the side.



i'm going to shine those light out the doors now that it's full dark to get a feel for range. they might be able to see them from the Shuttle.

jdrocks screwed with this post 04-10-2011 at 04:23 AM
jdrocks is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2011, 06:42 PM   #743
Jeff Watts
Adventurer
 
Joined: Mar 2011
Location: North East TEXAS
Oddometer: 52
Waiting to see more pics of the lights in action. Any info on current draw?
I'm sitting here jotting down ideas from the several builds I'm following, and it just occured to me that I need to plan on not overtaxing the electrics.
Jeff Watts is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2011, 04:34 AM   #744
jdrocks OP
Gravel Runner
 
Joined: Jul 2007
Oddometer: 3,864
Quote:
Originally Posted by ky2008 View Post
Wow, close call......
yeah, i've had a few of those...gimme a campfire and a little bourbon and i've got a boatload of stories about the flipside to the "attention to detail" factor.

...at least nobody died.

stay tuned.
jdrocks is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2011, 05:24 AM   #745
jdrocks OP
Gravel Runner
 
Joined: Jul 2007
Oddometer: 3,864
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Watts View Post
Waiting to see more pics of the lights in action. Any info on current draw?
I'm sitting here jotting down ideas from the several builds I'm following, and it just occured to me that I need to plan on not overtaxing the electrics.
i did get out last night and took a couple laps on the bike to check out the lights. the 44s are so bright i can barely tell when i switch on my main light high beam. pretty incredible light from a small package. i'm going to try it again tonight if it doesn't rain, and this time with a camera. i think i've got a location that will show reflective range at night. for daytime running, it doesn't seem possible that a cager couldn't see you coming down the road, they would have to be legally blind...ok, i know, some of them really are legally blind.

speaking of legally blind, you don't want to stand there and gaze lovingly into the beams of your brand new 44s. it's like looking at an arc flash, you'll see spots for an hour.

the lights only pull about 45w per pair, less than half the watts of my Piaa 510s. the ptwin generator output is about 375w, and it uses around 75w to run the bike, so the balance is available to run a combination of lights and whatever else.

i think i'll change the lamps in that Buell main headlight to something brighter. any of the XB12 guys who can tell me what fits, please chime in.
jdrocks is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2011, 06:47 AM   #746
MTrider16
Ridin' in MT
 
MTrider16's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2006
Location: Eastern Montana
Oddometer: 1,453
Do the Buell lights use standard H4 bulbs? I've been thinking of getting brighter bulbs for the interceptor, it comes stock with 55W bulbs. I recall seeing 80W, 90W, and 100W bulbs on the shelf at the auto parts store. It would just be a matter of wiring and generator capacities? (which the interceptor is weak on)

45w per pair, that might help my F8's weak system.

David
__________________
'13 VFR1200D, '13 XVS950, '09 F800GS, 07 CRF250X
Riding roads in Montana - Big Sky Country
www.mtrider16.smugmug.com
Mountains, Moose, and Miles: a Montanan's Alcan Highway Story
Continental Divide and More: the "No Dust" Tour of WY and MT
MTrider16 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2011, 07:19 AM   #747
jdrocks OP
Gravel Runner
 
Joined: Jul 2007
Oddometer: 3,864
Quote:
Originally Posted by MTrider16 View Post
Do the Buell lights use standard H4 bulbs? I've been thinking of getting brighter bulbs for the interceptor, it comes stock with 55W bulbs. I recall seeing 80W, 90W, and 100W bulbs on the shelf at the auto parts store. It would just be a matter of wiring and generator capacities? (which the interceptor is weak on)

45w per pair, that might help my F8's weak system.

David
i need to check on what series lamp the Buell uses, not sure. sometimes the problem is not just fitment, it could be heat buildup inside the housing caused by the higher wattage. wiring usually not the problem. also some of the after market lamps are just plain better performers at the same rating.


the F8 output is 400w, not much different than the 649 ptwin. should have plenty of capacity unless you have heated everything...including those heated socks.

i might have to jump over to the Buell thread and ask those guys.
jdrocks is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2011, 02:35 PM   #748
cccbarkbuster
Gnarly Adventurer
 
cccbarkbuster's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2009
Location: Ill.
Oddometer: 215
Your headlights look like the same as my Uly which stock use a 55w halogen bulb with an h7 base. I upgraded mine to Ddm tunning hid`s 35w 6000k bulbs for about 60 bucks.dropped right in but had to modify the rubber boot to accept the Hid. Should have gone with the 4500k bulb color as they are a light blue when on.4500k would be the same brightness but whiter and be more lumens than the 6000k. I also have the old led lights
Sanjo sold last fall 1 10w spot and 1 24w flood. The led`s used to flood the stock halogen`s but the hid`s are much better and as bright as the led`s.
Way easier on the alternator now! especially with the heated jacket.
__________________
The older I get the faster I was
surviving over 40yrs adventures on 2 wheels
08 Kawasaki klx450r
08 Buell Uly XB12xt
78 BMW R100rs (sold 3/13/11)
04 KTM200exc 09 Kawasaki Versys(daughters)
cccbarkbuster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2011, 05:53 PM   #749
jdrocks OP
Gravel Runner
 
Joined: Jul 2007
Oddometer: 3,864
Quote:
Originally Posted by cccbarkbuster View Post
Your headlights look like the same as my Uly which stock use a 55w halogen bulb with an h7 base.
thanks for the info, i'll check it out.


tried to get some photos tonight of the LEDs, but i couldn't get the camera set quite right.
jdrocks is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2011, 06:13 PM   #750
jdrocks OP
Gravel Runner
 
Joined: Jul 2007
Oddometer: 3,864
i needed to get the correct spacers installed to center the front wheel, and also thread my shop made front axle before i fabricate the new caliper bracket, so i got that out of the way. the axle needed 25mm of M20x1.5 thread, and also drilled for a pin. when i reached for the castle nut to properly locate the hole...well, it was a castle nut, but not M20...so i'll drill it the next time it's out.

jdrocks is online now   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 06:31 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014