ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Some Assembly Required
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 10-09-2011, 04:48 PM   #1126
Ednukey
Adventurer
 
Joined: Mar 2009
Oddometer: 39
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdrocks View Post
anyone have an extra they want to sell cheap?
You can have both side plastics from my bike, for the cost of shipping, if you can wait until Dec.

I'd pay for the shipping myself, but I am operating on extreme budget mode -- trying to extend the cash until next spring.

PM me on either site, if you're interested. I'll PM update you an update on my trip when I have a long period of internet access.

BTW, got 30 mpg doing 70+ on I-84, across the Snake river Plain of Idaho this past week. Had a constant 20+ mph headwind. Partially shredded one nylon rain coat and a complete set of PVC rain gear in the wind. Even road through a snow storm most of the way from Idaho Fall to Pocatello. Oh, adventure...
Ednukey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2011, 10:48 PM   #1127
Roadracer_Al
louder, louder, louder!
 
Roadracer_Al's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2007
Location: Oakland, CA
Oddometer: 1,475
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdrocks View Post
you can feel the tire hit the liner, so adjust the shock settings according. even with the shock setup a little stiffer, the ride is still far superior to the stock Versys shock.

the guys using the R1 on a ER6/650R build wouldn't have the tank trim, but would still have the tire/fender liner interference.
It would be worthwhile to look into some long/tapered bottom-out bumpers (the rubber bits that fit on the shock shaft). You can make big alterations to the bottom-out characteristics by changing the taper or length or both of the B.O. bumpers.

There are also different stiffnesses of rubber. For a given stiffness, a longer, more tapered bumper has "smoother" feel, but (since it's longer) it starts acting earlier in the stroke. A short taper or cylindrical bumper has a more abrupt feel, but leaves more travel available -- a luxury you can afford if you have your spring rate very nearly perfect.

They can be cut and stacked, too. If you stack, I'd suggest gluing them together with a urethane glue. It's OK to use a smaller bumper on a larger shaft, but you don't want a larger bumper on a smaller shaft as it will move around a lot, trap dirt, and wear out the chrome on the shock shaft prematurely.
__________________
------------------------------
Suck, Squeeze, Bang, Blow
------------------------------
New Rider Training in the San Francisco Bay Area at Motorcycle University". Learn to Ride...Better!
Roadracer_Al is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2011, 04:15 AM   #1128
jdrocks OP
Gravel Runner
 
Joined: Jul 2007
Oddometer: 3,991
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ednukey View Post
You can have both side plastics from my bike, for the cost of shipping, if you can wait until Dec.

I'd pay for the shipping myself, but I am operating on extreme budget mode -- trying to extend the cash until next spring.

PM me on either site, if you're interested. I'll PM update you an update on my trip when I have a long period of internet access.

BTW, got 30 mpg doing 70+ on I-84, across the Snake river Plain of Idaho this past week. Had a constant 20+ mph headwind. Partially shredded one nylon rain coat and a complete set of PVC rain gear in the wind. Even road through a snow storm most of the way from Idaho Fall to Pocatello. Oh, adventure...


thanks, PM on the way.

be safe out there.
jdrocks is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2011, 04:25 AM   #1129
jdrocks OP
Gravel Runner
 
Joined: Jul 2007
Oddometer: 3,991
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadracer_Al View Post
It would be worthwhile to look into some long/tapered bottom-out bumpers...

thanks for the tip, but i don't think it's necessary with the R1. the shock is easy to adjust, so that's all that's needed, at least in my case. 799 miles saturday and no aditional gear loaded, shock can be loosened up a little without the tire hitting the liner. i prefer the shock not bottom on the bumper or internals.
jdrocks is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2011, 04:33 AM   #1130
jdrocks OP
Gravel Runner
 
Joined: Jul 2007
Oddometer: 3,991
Quote:
Originally Posted by rlbowers03 View Post
No, I'm just riding! I'm pushing towards 50K. I can't find a 19" front wheel, not to mention the forks. The R-1 shock is sitting on my bench just waiting.

As I follow your RR I haven't seen any mention of aux fuel. Use it? Need it? Recomendations?

PM sent.
jdrocks is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2011, 08:02 AM   #1131
rlbowers03
Gnarly Adventurer
 
rlbowers03's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2009
Location: Boise
Oddometer: 142
PM received THX JD
__________________
2008 Versys

83,500 miles and counting
rlbowers03 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2011, 01:02 PM   #1132
Ednukey
Adventurer
 
Joined: Mar 2009
Oddometer: 39
PM sent -- finally.
Ednukey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2011, 02:29 PM   #1133
Tonibe63
Adventurer
 
Joined: Aug 2011
Oddometer: 17
Has anybody found a decent offroad tyre for the 17" front wheel?
The Vstrom front wheel is as rare as rocking horse sh!t over here in the UK and other bike 19" wheels I've looked at have drawn a blank. Has anybody managed to fit a different front wheel?

thanks in advance. Tony
Tonibe63 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2011, 07:07 PM   #1134
jdrocks OP
Gravel Runner
 
Joined: Jul 2007
Oddometer: 3,991
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tonibe63 View Post
Has anybody found a decent offroad tyre for the 17" front wheel?
The Vstrom front wheel is as rare as rocking horse sh!t over here in the UK and other bike 19" wheels I've looked at have drawn a blank. Has anybody managed to fit a different front wheel?

thanks in advance. Tony
plenty of guys in the States have run a variety of 130/80-17 rears on the front, including the TKC and Scout. just depends on how you intend to use the bike.

the DL1000 wheel is the easiest swap, maybe one will turn up.
jdrocks is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-12-2011, 12:11 AM   #1135
Tonibe63
Adventurer
 
Joined: Aug 2011
Oddometer: 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdrocks View Post
plenty of guys in the States have run a variety of 130/80-17 rears on the front, including the TKC and Scout. just depends on how you intend to use the bike.

the DL1000 wheel is the easiest swap, maybe one will turn up.
Thanks JD.

Ref how I intend to use the bike:-
I've got a 1200GS for 2 up touring/commuting etc and a 390 Husaberg for serious offroad stuff so the Versys has been bought for pure solo adventure type riding. The problem in the UK and Western Europe in general is that there are long stretches of Motorway and tarmac with the occasional trail along the way. These trails can be gravel based but more often they are wet/muddy/stone where traction and front end grip is very important but totally lacking with the Avon Distanzias on the bike.
So I need a tyre that can handle motorway speeds (70-90mph) for hours at a time and then give good grip on wet/muddy rock-probably a big ask.
I've used TKC's on a BMW F650gs I rallied a few years ago and they are a good tarmac/gravel tyre but not so clever in the mud and really needs to be more agressive especially on the front end.
The Scout is not a tyre that is widely available in the UK but it does look to have a good tread pattern on it.

JD-did you ever get a comparison between the 17" Versys wheel with a TKC and the Vstrom wheel with TKC?
I suppose what I'm trying to say is-does the 19" wheel make that much difference when running the same tyre or is it fitted just to give you the capacity to fit the Scout tyre?

Thanks. Tony
Tonibe63 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-12-2011, 05:45 AM   #1136
jdrocks OP
Gravel Runner
 
Joined: Jul 2007
Oddometer: 3,991
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tonibe63 View Post
JD-did you ever get a comparison between the 17" Versys wheel with a TKC and the Vstrom wheel with TKC?
I suppose what I'm trying to say is-does the 19" wheel make that much difference when running the same tyre or is it fitted just to give you the capacity to fit the Scout tyre?

Thanks. Tony
i have run TKCs in both sizes with the stock Versys suspension, 130/80-17 and 110/80-19, thousands of miles of both gravel road and pavement on both tires. i like the performance of the TKC on both surfaces and get decent miles out of them. not a mud tire, the Scout isn't either, but i'd take the TKC for a combination of surfaces as encountered in my travels. our highway speeds are similar, and i run the TKC at 80 cruise without issue. i have not used the Scout, although others have. i'm still using the 19" DL wheel/TKC combo on the new bike.

swapping in the 19" front wheel is the single best improvement you can make on a stock Versys to improve DS performance and capability. fairly inexpensive by most standards, the 19" wheel is very easy to swap. if you prefer to have a matching 3 spoke rear wheel on your Versys, the late model SV650 rear wheel is also an easy swap.

this is the writeup i did on the swap a few years ago...

19" front wheel

Ok, so youíre thinking it might be nice to run a different set of tires, say a set of real dual sporters, and we all know that thereís just not much available in 17Ē for the Ninja/Versys. Maybe your plans are to run some big gravel, or maybe you just want something different. I have run the Tourance rear in 130/80 and the TKC rear in the same size standard rotation on the front with good luck, but heck, new build so letís put a 19Ē wheel up there.



I want to run tubeless tires and don't want the expense of setting up a set of spoked wheels and having them sealed. This is a budget build and that type of thing is a budget buster for me. A common cast wheel in 19Ē is the DL1000 VStrom. Sometimes tough to find, I would take about anything in this wheel as long as it was straight and a decent price. I would take one with a ding in it if it was free and I thought Woody could straighten it. The DL650 front is also 19Ē, but you donít want that wheel for this application. Hereís why. The 1000 wheel bearing is 20x47x14mm, while the 650 is 17x40x12mm. Why a manufacturer does this kind of stuff is a mystery, you would think they would be the same. The Ninja/Versys axle is 20mm, same as the 1000. As far as I know, there is no 20x40x12mm bearing available for the 650 wheel. Remember, you also need a set of seals that fit the VStrom spacers, so itís just easier to stay with that wheel.


It would be really convenient to buy the whole front wheel assembly, but sometimes you canít find it that way. If buying just a wheel, see if you can buy the spacers with it. Youíre going to use the Ninja/Versys axle, so you donít need the 1000 axle. You need a set of rotors (both 1000 and 650 work), but see if they also have the rotor bolts. Those bolts are expensive if you have to buy them separately. Try to match the rotors with the same model year wheel. Some of the part numbers are different, although the parts look the same. Iím using 650 rotors on a 1000 wheel and they fit perfectly, so who knows. Order a set of new wheel bearings and seals.


Parts list: DL1000 wheel, rotors w/bolt set, two DL1000 spacers, wheel bearings/seals. If the wheel comes without bearings, you also need the spacer that fits between the bearings inside the hub.


The Ninja/Versys rotors are 300mm, while the DL1000 are 310mm. You will be taking the 1000 rotors to a machine shop to have them turned to 300mm.


As expected, the DL1000 hub with spacers is a different width than the Ninja/Versys hub with spacers. How different? The new wheel has to center up and be exactly the same dimension as the stock wheel. Insert the stock axle in the stock wheel with the spacers firmly in place and measure the projection of the threaded end past the outside face of the spacer. In my case, this is 39mm. Do the same thing with the new DL1000 wheel and DL1000 spacers. The projection was 30.7mm. The variance is 8.3mm, and when you divide this number by 2, you find the amount of material that needs to be removed from the inside face of the DL1000 spacers, 4.15mm. Easy and very accurate. Take the rotors and spacers over to the machine shop. Should be pretty inexpensive. Some might be tempted to grind away at home, and all I can say is, donít. My spacers were cut to 23mm, but you should take the time to check your own.


Rotors back and assembled to the wheel, but damn, we need brakes and these have to fit the Ninja/Versys calipers. In the best of all circumstances (besides an exact fit), the DL1000 rotors are 5mm less in width than the stock, measured at the outside face of the rotors on the assembled wheel. Narrower, no problem, but wider would have been. So 5mm divided by 2 is the thickness of the spacers that will move the calipers in to match up with the new wheel set. Hmmm. I donít have any 2.5mm spacers on the shelf and they also have to fit the mounting surface of the caliper, about 20mm. What I do have are stainless flat washers, 19mm in diameter, and when I put two together I get 2.35mm. Drill the centers to the diameter of the caliper bolts, deburr, and assemble with the calipers. You could glue the flat washers together with a drop of loctite if you wanted.


You now have a 19Ē front.


You already know that the fender has to be raised for the larger diameter tire, and this is done routinely for those running a 130/80-17 on the front. Many variations show up in the posted photos of these simple brackets, but i still say that there should be some protection for the exposed lower fork leg incorporated in the design. For instance, like mine...with wings.




There you have it, almost too easy.
jdrocks is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-12-2011, 06:59 AM   #1137
Tonibe63
Adventurer
 
Joined: Aug 2011
Oddometer: 17
Thanks for that JD

I've read lots of Versys related stuff over the last couple of months and especially like your work on them to date which is really useful. I've got a trip forming in my head for next spring for which I have bought the Versys and after last weekends slippy outing the front end is the main priority, apart from that it is just about ready.
Tonibe63 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-12-2011, 08:31 PM   #1138
jake28
Riding to the horizon.
 
jake28's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2007
Location: Bay Area, CA
Oddometer: 391
Thanks for all of the inspiration, this followed me home.


Build thread and a couple of questions to come.
__________________
2004 YZ250F Dirt/Motard 1982 XLFTCR500 Street Tracker 1997 XR600R POS

jake28 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-12-2011, 08:46 PM   #1139
jdrocks OP
Gravel Runner
 
Joined: Jul 2007
Oddometer: 3,991
Quote:
Originally Posted by jake28 View Post
Thanks for all of the inspiration, this followed me home.


Build thread and a couple of questions to come.
i'll be watching for the build, interesting to see what you do with it.

as these projects evolve, there's bound to be some very cool bikes built.

any questions, just ask.
jdrocks is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2011, 08:53 AM   #1140
jdrocks OP
Gravel Runner
 
Joined: Jul 2007
Oddometer: 3,991
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tonibe63 View Post
Thanks for that JD
I've got a trip forming in my head for next spring for which I have bought the Versys and after last weekends slippy outing the front end is the main priority, apart from that it is just about ready.
prep the Versys and ship the bike over here, many do. you might like our roads better than what you could find closer to home, wide open spaces too, like this...



we even speak a version of English you can mostly understand.
jdrocks is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 08:25 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014