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Old 03-01-2012, 09:46 AM   #1276
jdrocks OP
Gravel Runner
 
Joined: Jul 2007
Oddometer: 3,638
Quote:
Originally Posted by pjm204 View Post
...not sure if Rat is appropriate for mine though since it is in mint condition.
mine is mint too...well, sort of minty.

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Old 03-01-2012, 10:42 AM   #1277
pjm204
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Oddometer: 1,744
Agreed, that does look very nice.
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Current bikes:2006 DL650, 2008 WR250R
Past bikes: XT225, TTR125, '04 CRF50 '74 DT125,'70 TS250,'85 v45, '89 zx600c, '78 GS400x, '99 GS500E, '01 GS500E '05 Z750s, '77 GS400e, '82 GS1100ez, '97 GSX600, '07 VFR800, '03 KLR650, '03 FJR1300, '06 DL1000, '00 KLR650, '99 WR360, '08 DL650, '05 DR650, '08 EX650r, '96 CR500, '82 GS450T, '06 Ural
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Old 03-01-2012, 04:59 PM   #1278
bodie1
slightly unbalanced
 
Joined: Feb 2012
Location: Iowa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ben2go View Post
Just want to say welcome to the forum.
thanks ben2go ive been lurking for awhile, brain hurts from all the reading.
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Old 03-01-2012, 05:09 PM   #1279
bodie1
slightly unbalanced
 
Joined: Feb 2012
Location: Iowa
Oddometer: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdrocks View Post
we need photos!

i've been tied up with some other things, but the V649 rat is getting a slight tear down today for some changes.
cant wait jd, ive read most of your thread here and over on the versys forum really digging them, and all the other builds on here. I will definatley get pics on as soon as i got some parts and get started on the buddys ninja build. we looked at two this past week but couldnt make a deal they wanted way too much money. I messaged ya about you fork bushings/shims thanks for the info found me some aluminum i think should work and found a guy to turn them for me. Still scouring for drz forks and front wheel think i might have a rear wheel lined up for my versys.
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Old 03-01-2012, 05:26 PM   #1280
jdrocks OP
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Joined: Jul 2007
Oddometer: 3,638
so y'all got that R1 shock fitted, any clearance issues? i knew that the reservoir just might hit the right side tank trim panel, but i couldn't get it to hit in all my pre runs, so the heck with it, never cut it back. turned out i wasn't on those real rough roads yet, and as soon as i was pounding the bike on those...bam, hits the panel and breaks the rear mounting tab. the panel won't fall off in the middle of your ride, but why break it.

the upper panel is the broken one i trimmed with a nice even radius when i got back, while the lower panel is an untrimmed stock replacement i received gratis from a kind ADV inmate (thanks again, Mr. Inmate).



so the general idea is to trim, then ride...not ride, break, then trim.
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Old 03-01-2012, 05:53 PM   #1281
jdrocks OP
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Joined: Jul 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bodie1 View Post
...we looked at two this past week but couldnt make a deal they wanted way too much money...
coincidentally, i had a deal on a very nice low mile parts bike in des moines late in 2010, $650, 4000 miles, and title, but i bought the other one instead.

keep looking, takes some time for the right deal.
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Old 03-02-2012, 04:57 AM   #1282
bodie1
slightly unbalanced
 
Joined: Feb 2012
Location: Iowa
Oddometer: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdrocks View Post
coincidentally, i had a deal on a very nice low mile parts bike in des moines late in 2010, $650, 4000 miles, and title, but i bought the other one instead.

keep looking, takes some time for the right deal.
nice Des Moines is just down the road from me would love to find one that close and thats the price my buddy lookin for, he set a $800 or less budget for the base ninja with a total build price of under $2000. A local guy here found a 2008 with 3000 miles for $500 that was wrecked and missing alot of parts but the parts that were gone he wasnt gonna use. Both bikes we looked at were over a $1000 each. but im just getting started looking so im sure something will come along. JD you had mentioned you had some parts u might wanna get rid of i am definately interested in them.
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Old 03-02-2012, 06:22 AM   #1283
jdrocks OP
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Joined: Jul 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bodie1 View Post
nice Des Moines is just down the road from me would love to find one that close and thats the price my buddy lookin for, he set a $800 or less budget for the base ninja with a total build price of under $2000. A local guy here found a 2008 with 3000 miles for $500 that was wrecked and missing alot of parts but the parts that were gone he wasnt gonna use. Both bikes we looked at were over a $1000 each. but im just getting started looking so im sure something will come along. JD you had mentioned you had some parts u might wanna get rid of i am definately interested in them.

thinking back on it, the seller was a grad student up at Ames, kinda flakey SOB, and i didn't buy it. a month later, a midwest guy sent a PM asking if i knew of any cheap bikes, so i went back to see if that one was still for sale. didn't find it, but did find another guy looking for the seller of the exact same bike. there must be a demand these days.

i've said many times that finding the right parts bike is the key to a cheap rat build. you want enough damage that the seller is looking to unload it cheap, but not so much that you're deprived of the opportunity to sell all the good parts that you don't use. the equation has changed a little from the parts standpoint because so many of these bikes have been dismantled and parted out. works out great if you need something, not so great if you're selling used parts. a $2000 turnkey budget is very easy to hit with the right bike. find the right bike, have cash in hand, blink, it's gone.

i did send a PM from the other forum regarding parts, their system is FUBARed, i'll try here. PM on the way.
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Old 03-05-2012, 01:11 PM   #1284
jdrocks OP
Gravel Runner
 
Joined: Jul 2007
Oddometer: 3,638
new tank panel with the proper radius, should last more than a few minutes on those rough roads.

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Old 03-05-2012, 01:49 PM   #1285
pjm204
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Oddometer: 1,744
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdrocks View Post
new tank panel with the proper radius, should last more than a few minutes on those rough roads.

Thanks, that picture is very helpful. My build is getting dangerously close to a shakedown ride.
__________________
Current bikes:2006 DL650, 2008 WR250R
Past bikes: XT225, TTR125, '04 CRF50 '74 DT125,'70 TS250,'85 v45, '89 zx600c, '78 GS400x, '99 GS500E, '01 GS500E '05 Z750s, '77 GS400e, '82 GS1100ez, '97 GSX600, '07 VFR800, '03 KLR650, '03 FJR1300, '06 DL1000, '00 KLR650, '99 WR360, '08 DL650, '05 DR650, '08 EX650r, '96 CR500, '82 GS450T, '06 Ural
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Old 03-05-2012, 02:24 PM   #1286
jdrocks OP
Gravel Runner
 
Joined: Jul 2007
Oddometer: 3,638
new year, new plans, some different gear...so, all that red was getting a little dated. i bought some paint last year, time to use a little.

hello Wimbledon White urethane enamel...



sorry, no closeups. i don't think you're supposed to spray this crap below 65d, so just like last time, i waited until the shop got up to about 50. i think that paint is frozen on there, might fall off when it thaws.
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Old 03-05-2012, 07:16 PM   #1287
jdrocks OP
Gravel Runner
 
Joined: Jul 2007
Oddometer: 3,638
Quote:
Originally Posted by pjm204 View Post
Thanks, that picture is very helpful. My build is getting dangerously close to a shakedown ride.
the ER6 trim is a little different.
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Old 03-06-2012, 01:52 PM   #1288
bodie1
slightly unbalanced
 
Joined: Feb 2012
Location: Iowa
Oddometer: 12
I think the white will look good JD.
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Old 03-06-2012, 04:44 PM   #1289
jdrocks OP
Gravel Runner
 
Joined: Jul 2007
Oddometer: 3,638
Quote:
Originally Posted by bodie1 View Post
I think the white will look good JD.
thanks. i owe ya a photo, haven't forgotten, but i needed to get the bike back together.
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Old 03-06-2012, 05:37 PM   #1290
jdrocks OP
Gravel Runner
 
Joined: Jul 2007
Oddometer: 3,638
one of the things i needed to fix while i had the bike apart was the switch location for the auxiliary lights. my original location below the instruments worked, but wasn't handy, especially with winter gloves. time for a change.

a quick mention of how i wire these lights. my feeling is that a DS type bike should have these lights on an isolated circuit, and not connected to any existing bike circuit, especially any lighting circuit, including power to the relay switch. from what i see, not many do it this way, rather preferring to use an ignition switched circuit, lighting switched circuit, or some other variation. i want redundancy in my lights in the event of mishap, so if i lose a bike circuit or main lighting circuit, hopefully i won't have lost the other independent circuit and will still have lights...or the capability to easily hook up replacement lights.

this strategy proved out when i got knocked down in montana and the front end was pretty well wiped out. the wiring for the primary lights was destroyed, but i was able to make it home with one auxiliary light wired into the isolated circuit.

i had a perch mount switch that i was going to use for a different application, heck, let's make it work here. i located the back half of a bar mount that had the same metric spacing, should work.



not a lot of room left on the bars, but the switch mount was shoehorned on. the switch has a light action and i can reach it with my thumb. the switch is not high amperage and is just controlling the relay.



yes, if you wire it this way you have to remember to turn off your lights, a pilot light is a good reminder.





all the switches and devices on the front end are on quick connects and can be pulled out of the system if they fail or are damaged. there's a spare heavy duty WP switch mounted below the panel complete with male/female connectors for emergency use. all the connectors are soldered, covered with liquid tape, and shrink wrapped. all the connections are greased.

ready to go, gotta get the bike back together.
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