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Old 12-21-2010, 07:41 PM   #16
EvilClown OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by radguzzi View Post
Geezuz, you are a bone head...! I built the CB 350 three years ago, I did wait a few months longer than I wanted to for the seat... not three years.

No pix bud... Sorry
And this changes my pace how?




A little progress tonight...tried everything I could think of. No spark. Started shedding the pounds. More to go.



Think I'm to the point of rewiring the ignition system just to try and get it to run. Probably go with a total loss system. Anyone care to share any knowledge on how to wire that up? Have some ideas based on a diagram or two in my manual but some experience would be appreciated.

I case yer wondering the plug is in the exhaust on the outside chance I've imported some meece into the shop.

BTW, pics working yet? How about previous posts?
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Old 12-21-2010, 07:51 PM   #17
killfile
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EvilClown View Post
BTW, pics working yet? How about previous posts?
All pics working in all posts!

I know Todd Henning Racing does a CB350 Stator for racing applications.

If you run total loss, I wonder how long you can go before you run out of juice?
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Old 12-21-2010, 08:30 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by killfile View Post
All pics working in all posts!

I know Todd Henning Racing does a CB350 Stator for racing applications.

If you run total loss, I wonder how long you can go before you run out of juice?
I have run all weekend on 3A battery. Coils pull very little.
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Old 12-21-2010, 08:57 PM   #19
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If you don't want to splurge on some kindo mag set -up the total loss is the easy way, just have to haul a battery.
I use a trailer plug , you know 4 prong dealy.
Seperate the plug set. One half gets attached to the battery. If you're using a four prong set pick two wires and atatch to the posative terminal and the other two to the negative terminal.
Match up the other side of the plug and run the color of wires you have on posative to the + terminal on the coil. The points wire goes on the _ terminal.
The other two wires on this plug are your grounds. since you have two wires run them to different locations to ensure a good ground.


Well there you go. You'll have to wire in a Kill Switch to pass tech. That just grounds the points side of the coil.

The reason for the trailer plug is to connect and disconnect the juice from the coil. Your new key in other words. Never forget to unplug it after use , if left hooked up you could fry a coil.
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Old 12-22-2010, 03:10 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bk brkr baker View Post
If you don't want to splurge on some kindo mag set -up the total loss is the easy way, just have to haul a battery.
I use a trailer plug , you know 4 prong dealy.
Seperate the plug set. One half gets attached to the battery. If you're using a four prong set pick two wires and atatch to the posative terminal and the other two to the negative terminal.
Match up the other side of the plug and run the color of wires you have on posative to the + terminal on the coil. The points wire goes on the _ terminal.
The other two wires on this plug are your grounds. since you have two wires run them to different locations to ensure a good ground.


Well there you go. You'll have to wire in a Kill Switch to pass tech. That just grounds the points side of the coil.

The reason for the trailer plug is to connect and disconnect the juice from the coil. Your new key in other words. Never forget to unplug it after use , if left hooked up you could fry a coil.
Thank you. Nice bikes, btw. Yours? Details?

Splurging is out of the question right now. At least for a mag set up. Rear sets, OTOH...

I'm thinking more in terms of basic wiring to see if I can't get this thing to fire up. Hate to waste a bunch of time trying to chase down all that factory wiring only to tear it off the bike in the end anyway.

Thought a total loss system would be easiest at this point. Have also read a little bit about an 'energy transfer magneto' system over on Ohiocaferacers.com. To be honest I just quickly skimmed through it and saved the pdf file a while back so I'm not sure how applicable it will be.

Looks like I'm going to have to find the latest set of rules eventually as I will have a few questions to answer. Kill switch may be the first. Basic toggle work or we getting into tethers?

Quote:
Originally Posted by mykill View Post
I have run all weekend on 3A battery. Coils pull very little.
Got any more details? Less than 12V? Pics?

Quote:
Originally Posted by killfile View Post
All pics working in all posts!

I know Todd Henning Racing does a CB350 Stator for racing applications.

If you run total loss, I wonder how long you can go before you run out of juice?
I've read of systems using a few cells lasting longer than a race. Sounds like mykill has that covered and hopefully he'll give us more details. They'd bring multiple set ups and run them through the charger between heats.

Pics? Still don't know what was up with it. Only thing I did different was I moved those pics from my email upload album to a new album which was created in the process. Even changed all the settings to allow access. The one I could see at least. Not sure it should matter as I've posted up pics before with no problems from an unlisted album.

In the end I created a new album and re-uploaded the pics the conventional way into it, then edited my posts. I guess it worked.


The other side...






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Old 12-22-2010, 06:18 AM   #21
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About time!

Welcome Mike. Couldn't resist the urge eh?

Bodywork: http://www.tannermatic.com/Tannermattic/Home.html
Matt is the MAN! seats, fairings, tanks, etc.

Exhaust: Take a look at Rosko's work;
http://www.flickr.com/photos/slrosko/with/4294819033/
Quality work.
Support your local USCRA racers

My buddy Bill built that blue #85 bike. Goes pretty well.
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Old 12-22-2010, 08:32 AM   #22
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Details?

Not much detail. I used a 12V/3A scooter battery. A bit heavy for its size compared to some higher tech batteries that are available now. I suppose you could run smaller batteries but keep them on a solar or trickle charger between sessions.
Wiring is totally straightforward. Positive from battery to coil (+), Coil(-) to points and grounding kill switch. Quick disconnect on battery.
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Old 12-22-2010, 08:55 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by birdman View Post

Exhaust: Take a look at Rosko's work;
http://www.flickr.com/photos/slrosko/with/4294819033/
Quality work.
Support your local USCRA racers
Wow. I just spent the last hour or so going through Rosko's Flickr. He has worked on some great projects, and that is just going back about a year!
When I lived in Brooklyn, I knew about the Autumn Bowl (in the Flickr feed), just never got inside since my skating days are long since past.
GREAT STUFF!

killfile screwed with this post 12-22-2010 at 09:11 AM
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Old 12-22-2010, 09:36 AM   #24
bk brkr baker
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[QUOTE=EvilClown;14756571]Thank you. Nice bikes, btw. Yours? Details?

Splurging is out of the question right now. At least for a mag set up. Rear sets, OTOH...

QUOTE



The Hondas aren't mine. I have a couple of Ducati singles that I've been running since 1987.

For a killswitch I like the old school dirt bike push to kill type. Toggles or deadman not a requirement.

In 200 GP , there are no frame restrictions, as long as it's of a type available in 1974. Twin shock, drum brakes,wire wheels,etc.




This is my 450 Duc first put together in 1989. The rear fender is an aluminum fan blade and I made the seat from fiberglass cloth and an old Shoei helmet slightly moddified. I'm pretty cheap.
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Old 12-22-2010, 01:59 PM   #25
EvilClown OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by birdman View Post
Welcome Mike. Couldn't resist the urge eh?

Bodywork: http://www.tannermatic.com/Tannermattic/Home.html
Matt is the MAN! seats, fairings, tanks, etc.

Exhaust: Take a look at Rosko's work;
http://www.flickr.com/photos/slrosko/with/4294819033/
Quality work.
Support your local USCRA racers

My buddy Bill built that blue #85 bike. Goes pretty well.
Hey, Jeff! Nope. I couldn't resist and I ain't smart enough to buy a race ready bike. That is unless you popped in to tell me yours is for sale. This thread would be renamed and booted to 'Flea Market' so fast your head would spin.

Thanks for the links. That's prolly where I'll be this evening.

Bill did a fine job on that bike. He was a pleasure to talk to that day. Very willing to share information.

Quote:
Originally Posted by geode View Post
Wowsers!! That is very very nice!

Is that the stock frame? Is using a stock frame a rule for the class racing?
IIRC, it is a stock frame. Or at least started stock. May be some mods to it.

Rules? Can't help ya.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mykill View Post
Not much detail. I used a 12V/3A scooter battery. A bit heavy for its size compared to some higher tech batteries that are available now. I suppose you could run smaller batteries but keep them on a solar or trickle charger between sessions.
Wiring is totally straightforward. Positive from battery to coil (+), Coil(-) to points and grounding kill switch. Quick disconnect on battery.


Quote:
Originally Posted by bk brkr baker View Post
The Hondas aren't mine. I have a couple of Ducati singles that I've been running since 1987.

For a killswitch I like the old school dirt bike push to kill type. Toggles or deadman not a requirement.

In 200 GP , there are no frame restrictions, as long as it's of a type available in 1974. Twin shock, drum brakes,wire wheels,etc.




This is my 450 Duc first put together in 1989. The rear fender is an aluminum fan blade and I made the seat from fiberglass cloth and an old Shoei helmet slightly moddified. I'm pretty cheap.
Sweet bike!

Love the reuse of materials. I really like the cake pan for an oil catch. That's good stuff.

Thanks for the pics and the info.

Took a few shots last night. Just few 'befores'.





This'll be gone soon.



These'll get a thorough cleaning.



From there we'll see where we go.



Cases ought to clean up ok.







These should prove interesting.



You can see there's some clean up to do on the wheels if they aren't swapped. Surprised no one has mentioned suspension yet...



That lift could well be the best $100 I've spent.



Hey, geode. Feel free to jump in here and prescribe wiring sizes etc for me.
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Old 12-22-2010, 03:13 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by geode View Post
powdercoat

powdercoat

powdercoat

powdercoat

powdercoat

powdercoat

powdercoat

oops ... did I think that out loud?









Think we have a ways to go before we get there...if we get there.
Nice special effects, btw. I'm going to steal that from you.
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Old 12-22-2010, 03:46 PM   #27
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You likely need space and money to keep this project rolling ... have you given any thought to converting that TL into space and cash?

Sorry. Not a one.

I'll keep you posted, though.
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Old 12-22-2010, 04:07 PM   #28
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EXCELLENT! Looks like this will be a fun project and very rewarding. The right time of year to start it too.
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Old 12-22-2010, 04:08 PM   #29
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Nice Michael, very good way to occupy your time constructively. Ask me about the electrical not Mr 42 Gauge.
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Old 12-22-2010, 04:16 PM   #30
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Nice Michael, very good way to occupy your time constructively. Ask me about the electrical not Mr 42 Gauge.
I would have asked you but you weren't around.



Quote:
Originally Posted by MeRide View Post
EXCELLENT! Looks like this will be a fun project and very rewarding. The right time of year to start it too.
We can only hope. Figger worst case I'll cut a couple of notches in it and call it an ashtray.
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