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Old 03-31-2014, 10:07 PM   #3841
bdonley
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DesertSurfer View Post
Ohlins suspension kit including rear shocks. Front brakes are the full floater kit. Bike was set up for previous owner at Bartels in Marina Del Rey although the XRCR bodywork was done directly through Jewel in France.
That''s such a great looking bike..........
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Old 04-01-2014, 12:33 AM   #3842
rodteague
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Originally Posted by B02S4 View Post
I understand that Ricor generally recommends linear springs for use with Intiminators. That said, some do use progressive fork springs with 'em.
When I spoke with a technician at Ricor they did recommend that I start with the stock springs. However, he did say they would probably work well with the Progressive springs. When speaking to progressive; they did not admit to any testing with the Ricor; but they did speak of another valve(the name escapes me at the moment) that they had worked with and it had performed well. I opted to start with the progressive rate springs and if I felt I needed something that would improve the suspension in rougher terrain I'd try the Ricor's. I keep things pretty slow on the back roads, so for now, the Progressives with the current preload setting are more than adequate.

Rod
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Old 04-01-2014, 07:12 AM   #3843
woodnbow
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Race-Tech Gold valves Rod, they make them for lots of applications.
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Old 04-01-2014, 03:12 PM   #3844
rodteague
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Race-Tech Gold valves Rod, they make them for lots of applications.
Thats it. I was at work and was thinking about it later but wasn't 100%. Bounced between Ricor and the Gold valves, heavily leaning towards the Ricors because of access.
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Old 04-01-2014, 03:49 PM   #3845
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I bounced back and forth between the two as well. I read what I could and while I didn't find to much in the way of head to head comparisons, what I did find seemed to indicate the Ricors performed better.

The Ricor Intiminators are a straight drop in too, whereas the Gold Valve Emuators require the bleed holes in the damper rods to be drilled out. At least in most applications. In my case that wouldn't have been a big deal since I had my forks completely apart to change out the damper rods anyway. But, if that wasn't the case, just draining the oil and dropping in the Intiminators would have made it much simpler.

One possible advantage of the Emulators is that they are tuneable. Similar to the way a cartridge fork with external adjusters, only you have to remove the Emulators to make tuning adjustments if desired. I don't believe the Intiminators offer the same degree of owner adjustability. Then again, I'm not sure how essential this feature is for most riders.

I can't say that I wouldn't have been happy with the Gold Valve Emulators too, but I can say that I can't imagine being more pleased with their performance than I am with my Intiminators.

IMHO, good damping is the single most important thing to suspension performance, and the stock HD damping rod forks are horrible at it.

The stock forks have a reputation for being too softly sprung. In my case, with the Ricors I found that the stock springs worked fine. I actually ended up cutting 2" from the free length of my springs. It seems that in their infinite wisdom, the engineers at HD decided to use a soft spring rate and then use massive amounts of spring preload to keep the forks from losing too much travel in static sag conditions. In all my years I've never worked with a set of forks set up quite that way....

In testing I'm using the majority of my fork travel while never bottoming. And by "testing" I mean trying my best to bottom the forks in road conditions. Like full-on panic braking over bumps etc. That's what good damping will give you... the ability to actually use the majority of your available travel without ever being harsh or completely bottoming the suspension. Just well controlled compliance that works like it should. If you aren't using up the majority of your travel in the worst conditions your bike sees then you are wasting some of your suspensions potential and putting up with excessively harsh action and reduced wheel control.

IMO, the two things that holds the Sportster back the most is the suspension and the brakes. Coincidentally, that was the first two things I started working on with my bike. I still want better shocks when funds allow, but that'll come way before I worry about spending any money trying to get more power from the engine.
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Old 04-02-2014, 12:08 PM   #3846
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New rear suspension should be in within the hour and picking up a set of screamin chicken slip ons tonight.. looks like tmm Ill be spending some time in the garage.. Not sure how I'm gonna do the rear shocks by myself without a lift but I'm sure I'll rig something up that looks incredibly unsafe but works... Got Progressive Suspension 412's with Heavy duty spring rate and 12" which is an inch over for my XL883L.. Should fix my bottoming out issue. This was easier than going on a diet..lol
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Old 04-02-2014, 01:10 PM   #3847
Randy
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Originally Posted by snakecharmr View Post
New rear suspension should be in within the hour and picking up a set of screamin chicken slip ons tonight.. looks like tmm Ill be spending some time in the garage.. Not sure how I'm gonna do the rear shocks by myself without a lift but I'm sure I'll rig something up that looks incredibly unsafe but works... Got Progressive Suspension 412's with Heavy duty spring rate and 12" which is an inch over for my XL883L.. Should fix my bottoming out issue. This was easier than going on a diet..lol
DIY bike lift


I built something similar when I first got my bike. Picked up the HF lift shortly afterward so I never actually used it but from the videos I've seen it looks like it would work fine for shocks and such. Just a couple of 2bys of the appropriate width, a piece of pipe, a flange, and a few long deck screws.
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Old 04-02-2014, 04:30 PM   #3848
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You can do one side at a time without a lift. Just lean the bike over onto sidestand carefully until the wheel is off the ground and prop it up with something solid. Change the right shock. Then do the left. I did mine this way, going from stock 11" shocks to 13" Road King shocks and it worked just fine. Just be sure the bike is "chocked" up well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by snakecharmr View Post
New rear suspension should be in within the hour and picking up a set of screamin chicken slip ons tonight.. looks like tmm Ill be spending some time in the garage.. Not sure how I'm gonna do the rear shocks by myself without a lift but I'm sure I'll rig something up that looks incredibly unsafe but works... Got Progressive Suspension 412's with Heavy duty spring rate and 12" which is an inch over for my XL883L.. Should fix my bottoming out issue. This was easier than going on a diet..lol
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Old 04-02-2014, 07:24 PM   #3849
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Originally Posted by Weldman View Post
You can do one side at a time without a lift. Just lean the bike over onto sidestand carefully until the wheel is off the ground and prop it up with something solid. Change the right shock. Then do the left. I did mine this way, going from stock 11" shocks to 13" Road King shocks and it worked just fine. Just be sure the bike is "chocked" up well.
^Exactly. Just make sure to loosen all the shock mounting nuts a bit before doing the propping up.
My stock shocks had been put on by a gorilla with a 6' bar.
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Old 04-02-2014, 08:00 PM   #3850
snakecharmr
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Originally Posted by Weldman View Post
You can do one side at a time without a lift. Just lean the bike over onto sidestand carefully until the wheel is off the ground and prop it up with something solid. Change the right shock. Then do the left. I did mine this way, going from stock 11" shocks to 13" Road King shocks and it worked just fine. Just be sure the bike is "chocked" up well.
I wondered if I could get enough clearance that way.. looks like that is the way I'll be going.. Gotta run to the hardware store in the morning though to pick up a new set of torx plus bits as I can't find mine and don't feel like stripping them out with normal torx..
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Old 04-02-2014, 08:41 PM   #3851
Randy
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While it can be done without a lift, why not build one like I linked to above? It's simple, cheap, and will be useful in the future anyway. Plus, it's more stable and secure. Just sayin....
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Old 04-02-2014, 09:24 PM   #3852
DutchVDub
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Sportster a are small enough you can also use a regular car jack to get it in the air and then put Jack stands under it. I do that with my 840lbs Vulcan Vaquero. Or if you have a transmission jack, I use them under motorcycles a lot.

Hell, it's a 500lbs bike. Just hoax your neighbors or friends over and have them pick it up to put on Jack stands. 4 guys can toss it into a truck bed pretty easily so getting the rear elevated onto stands or blocks should be cake, I'm just saying.


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Old 04-03-2014, 06:20 AM   #3853
83XLX
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Originally Posted by DutchVDub View Post
Sportster a are small enough you can also use a regular car jack to get it in the air and then put Jack stands under it...
That's what I used to do before I bought a bike jack. I have switched shocks using the "lean on the sidestand" method, but it's pretty hard to do by yourself if the new shocks are a different length from the ones that are on it.
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Old 04-04-2014, 03:41 PM   #3854
snakecharmr
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No worries.. put the Screamin Eagle II's on it yesterday and had a few friends stop over so just had them hold the bike up while I changed the shocks out.. went nice and smooth and easy... NO issues.. even with the longer shocks and the heavy duty ones I had to put it on the third step for the preload adjustment to not bottom her out.. lol
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Old 04-04-2014, 07:19 PM   #3855
woodnbow
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My friends would eat my food and drink my beer, figured out a long time ago it was much cheaper to buy the damn jack...

Glad it worked out for you!
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