Go Sportsters

[skysailor]

That's a thought. Is the paint from H-D as a custom set, or did the dealer do the paint. H-D's own metal work is damn good. If the dealer had it done, you should be able to match it. I'd have thought they'd go for 9K considering the limited market, and the fact you guys are there with cheque book in hand.
BTW, I had an '05 1200 Custom. Loved it. She doesn't need a second disc up front. Keep us posted.
Lyle

[johnwesley]

Its a custom hd paint set. It looks awesome, I'll get the details on monday and let you guys know

[johnwesley]

deal fell through they would not come down below 10,190 and I would not give new price for a 2009 model. So they agreed to have a museum piece

We'll find another somewhere down the road

[garandman]

Originally Posted by sargev55

here are mine and my buddies 1200r's

mine is the black one. just about to roll over 20k miles. the bike has been absolutely rock solid as far as maintenance goes.

R's rock!

Mine is a quite-similar 2005 - with 1,180 miles on it.

[blsexton]

Hey, G-Man, I was going to PM you, but I see there are many others interested in the 'G-Man Seat Mod' (Soon to be as reknown as the 'Gronk Mod' Mufflers?).....

Anyhow, I bought a stock solo seat and mocked it up to near your seat's specs as by Alans Auto Body? (contact info please?)

I still have the stock R bars on, and it makes them much more comfortable- but the problem that I see happening is that if I go to the lower 883 bars as you have it will put my feet in a forward/awkward position. Did you experience this- and how did you fix it. It seems by going to lower more forward bars it will put my knees at a stuck forward jutting out position with the stock mids. BUT I like the way it sits you up higher on the bike and gets a riders' weight forward- but I have to put my feet on the passenger pegs to make it all work normally- otherwise it puts you on the bony part of a rider's butt ....j

Added by EDIT to save another post:
I have googled, and found, info on 'making' my own seat. I already did that- a 'mock up'...and am using my 'mock up' seat to establish my exact personal relationship to my bars/pegs etc. However- I want to have it professinoally done once I find the right answer, and G-man's guy already showed he does good work at a reasonable cost. What I'm trying to establish is long term comfort on his particular bike so I can relate that to mine. Learning from others....

http://www.diymotorcycleseat.com/comfort.htm

[30Bones]

From another thread here

Just a simple 08 Nightster with some additions

Fwd controls
Powdercoated air cleaner
Ceramic coated pipes
2 up saddle
Haulen Ass backrest
Choice between stock length 11" Progressives and 13" Road King air shocks (HUGE improvement)
Progressive from springs and heavier oil (waste of $$, that front end sucks)
Smoked signals

[Wanna Ride]

Google "Do it yourself motorcycle seat."

It won't let me copy the link. Lots of other links will also pop up. It is better to make your seat / bars / foot peg relationship to fit you, not necessarily some one else. The hardest thing is finding the right foam combination to support enough but be soft enough, and not break down over time. So do a test ride or two before you staple down the cover.

I'm 6' 3" with a Roadster. I put two extra inches of foam in a Harley Sundowner seat and then put a Air Hawk air cushion on top of that. It is generally better to go up instead of back with a seat to fit taller people.

There are companies that specialize in adapting seats, more expensive, but might get it right the first time.

[Wanna Ride]

Progressive from springs and heavier oil (waste of $$, that front end sucks)

The standard fork spring from Progressive Suspension is for long forks. Bikes with short forks do not have enough travel for the long spring to transition from the light initial rate to the harder final rate to prevent bottoming.

The other spring is for the "Drop In Fork Spring Kit" which is designed to lower a full length fork.

I know Progressive recommends their long spring for short forks. But they feel too light for heavier / faster riders with short forks.

The Works Dual Rate Fork Spring kit (soft version) and Ricor Intiminators, properly set up will transform the forks to equal any thing available, except considering limited travel. Full length forks and shocks, fork brace, better tires are needed for aggressive, heavy, or more demanding riders.

[83XLX]

Originally Posted by Wanna Ride

...Full length forks and shocks, fork brace, better tires are needed for aggressive, heavy, or more demanding riders.

Like this?



Progressive springs up front with 3/4" preload spacers, 15wt fork oil, SE brace, lightweight cafe fender. 13-1/2" Superglide Sport shocks out back, minimum preload, rebound damping set on 8. Drilled rotors, EBC kevlar pads, Continental tires.

[Banksy]

Originally Posted by Banksy

I've got an Iron over here in the UK and the weather can be on the damp side I'm fed up of getting water come off the front of the tire, miss the stock fender and come back at me and the bike.. Question is will the old full fender from an 84 ish XL fit the newer bikes.. Its alot longer at the front and back and would give better protection...

This is the fender i'm thinking of..

Thanks....

Bump...


Anyone know if it'll fit?

[dhr]

In the used market what kind of price difference does the 883 vs 1200 motor make? Is it harder to sell a 883 vs 1200?

Thinking of picking up another cheap Sporty and don't have much of a preference but was wondering how it might affect resale value.

[garandman]

Originally Posted by Wanna Ride

//I'm 6' 3" with a Roadster. I put two extra inches of foam in a Harley Sundowner seat and then put a Air Hawk air cushion on top of that. It is generally better to go up instead of back with a seat to fit taller people.

There are companies that specialize in adapting seats, more expensive, but might get it right the first time.

Originally Posted by Wanna Ride

// Full length forks and shocks, fork brace, better tires are needed for aggressive, heavy, or more demanding riders.

Ala 05 Roadster with Intiminators, SuperBrace, Metzler ME880's, and Ricor IAS 13.25 shoks with custom spring rate?

Haven't pushed to hard but haven't dragged anything yet!

[Bloodweiser]

Originally Posted by dhr

In the used market what kind of price difference does the 883 vs 1200 motor make? Is it harder to sell a 883 vs 1200?

Thinking of picking up another cheap Sporty and don't have much of a preference but was wondering how it might affect resale value.

I think there's a good market for both.
I don't think one is easier to sell than the other, although 1200s seem to fetch more.

Though you can find a lot of 883 to 1200 conversions.
They seem to go for an average of the two.
However, I wouldn't touch one. The only person that's allowed to see the inside of a motor is me.
I really don't care if your dealer did the work. He's probably a moron too.

And then you'll get guys who think they put gold instead of chrome on their 883 and want something crazy for it.
And you can find cheaper 1200s.

I have come to the conclusion that harley owners are straight crazy when it comes to the value of their bikes.

Sounds like you're in the perfect position to be buying a sportie.
Just buy whichever one floats your boat, is priced right, and wasn't owned by said moron.

[Bloodweiser]

Has anyone found a good helmet lock solution?
I have a bike lock that I use sometimes, but more often then not I carry it with me.
That's getting old.

[garandman]

Originally Posted by Bloodweiser

Has anyone found a good helmet lock solution?
I have a bike lock that I use sometimes, but more often then not I carry it with me.
That's getting old.

Haven't tried it on my Sportster but the V-Strom has the same problem and this is the slickest solution I've seen.


Ztechnik helmet lock - but may not work on Sportster.

Lockitt has a lot of choices.

Also I've heard a number of reports of people who have had FF helmets stolen that are locked via D-Ring. I'm using a bike lock through the shield opening on the V-Strom, Sportster I take it with me.