BergDonk's DR650

[rowdy_im]

Originally Posted by BergDonk

And I had another breakage on the last trip, one of my 'Lloydy' driving lights stopped working. I pulled the fairing one morning to check if it a was a connector come undone, which I thought unlikely, but ......

Got into it this afternoon, and found 3 broken wires inside. Fortunately, having one that worked, I could match the polarity, and soldered it back up. It also had some water in it which had got past the threads and O rings. Big storm the other day for sure. I reassembled them with Lanolin grease which will hopefully increase their water resistance, although I don't plan on riding in a storm like that again, who knows? Maybe I'll fall over in a water crossing?

One of my Lloydy lights died on the trip last year also same thing wires broke as per your photo
have to get onto the individual that recommended them
cant be too bad thou looking at buying some more very soon,
starting to prep the bike for the ride next year

Rowdy

[Kernel]

Originally Posted by BergDonk

Oh all right, just for you, and the rest of the mob too I suppose

My DR failed on me again

But it did it in the best way possible

Just finishing a 700 km day, the last 160 kms of which had been in an absolute pissing cloud dump near Newcastle on the F3 heading for Tea Gardens and the start of the TK Memorial Ride the next day. Maybe 100 mm in 1-1.5 hrs!

Riding along the F3, attempting to read the GPS and figure out where the highway was in the gloom with stuff all visibility, traffic everywhere rushing to get home, and I thought I detected a momentary misfire. Must have been the wind and rain and a passing truck, I hoped. Then it did it again. Rolled on and it seemed to clear. This could get ugly if it died on the F3, then what, its bucketting down and pitch black? Made a wrong turn, and it died doing a U turn. Back on the F3 and nursing it. Must be water in somewhere, but fuel or electrical?. Coughing and spluttering, found the turn off to the motel I'd booked, and it died 5 m from the foyer, rolling to a stop, dead, under the awning, and outside where we were supposed to be. It wouldn't restart this time. How considerate was that?

Checked in, pushed it to the room and unpacked. Beer, feed are next.

My thought process determined that it was unlikely to be electrical. All connectors had been assembled with either Lanolin or silicone grease to keep water out. So must be fuel?

Next morning I checked the carb breather filter which is tucked up behind the fairing and beside the steering head. remember, I have an FCR fitted. The two top hoses run up under the tank here, and I use the original BST secondary filter attached to these with extra oiled foam in it. The foam was saturated with water. Dried that out, and drained the float bowel where there also seemed to be some water. A bit of a flush, replace the float bung and breather foam, and it fired immediately, and I'm impressed with my diagnostic skills All good again, and for the next 5 days excellent riding. We just did 3,000 kms in 6 days.

Still gotta get back to the cush bearing and make a few seal retainers for a few blokes now, and other stuff too.......... And maybe relocate the carb breather filter somewhere

How come you're using a breather filter on the FCR, didn't think this was necessary?
Also where do you get those Lloydy lights from, google turns up nothing?

[rowdy_im]

Originally Posted by Kernel

How come you're using a breather filter on the FCR, didn't think this was necessary?
Also where do you get those Lloydy lights from, google turns up nothing?

Lloydy lights is just the name we gave them due to the fact the guy that suggested we buy them was of that name
see link for the fleabay item

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/LED-Drivi...item1c1f5cff8c

Rowdy

[BergDonk]

Originally Posted by Kernel

How come you're using a breather filter on the FCR, didn't think this was necessary?
Also where do you get those Lloydy lights from, google turns up nothing?

Its not obilgatory, but it keeps a bit more crud out of the carb, so I do it on all my fleet, ie put a small filter on the top hoses from the carb. And if they don't have one, a T fitting provides one. Available from plumbing stores, or auto parts places for a $1 or so.

[BergDonk]

Originally Posted by rowdy_im

Lloydy lights is just the name we gave them due to the fact the guy that suggested we buy them was of that name
see link for the fleabay item

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/LED-Drivi...item1c1f5cff8c

Rowdy

He has a few more options too, and using less power. Ash and I have also had the mounting brackets fail from fatigue. Note he now has an upgraded, stiffer design. I got some, and doubled them up with a couple of pop rivets. And as an existing customer, he did a deal on them after asking.

Supposedly the 4 LED units are 22 w and 3000 lumens. One of the DRs on our last trip had them fitted and they were noticebly brighter and had far more penetration than our older ones.

http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/maxlumens...id=p4340.l2562

[BergDonk]

Originally Posted by rowdy_im

starting to prep the bike for the ride next year

Rowdy

And which ride would that be?

[rowdy_im]

Originally Posted by BergDonk

And which ride would that be?

The bit I missed last year Corner Country/Simpson Crossing/and finish off at Birdsville Races
Its a while off but it will come quick ,,,, I watched this last night and has me thinking only 11 months

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nI8pVXmWmUg

cheers
Rowdy

[ER70S-2]

[BergDonk]

Originally Posted by ER70S-2

Patience, patience.

I should have the first production css retainer for an inmate in Broken Hill finished tomorrow, or the next day, and I'll post it up so anyone can make one themselves, either here or a dedicated thread, or both.

[TcRulz]

Originally Posted by BergDonk

Patience, patience.

I should have the first production css retainer for an inmate in Broken Hill finished tomorrow, or the next day, and I'll post it up so anyone can make one themselves, either here or a dedicated thread, or both.

So Steve does this mean your close to commercial production I mean who would want to make one when a talented guy such as yourself can turn a few out Just saying.

[BergDonk]

Originally Posted by TcRulz

So Steve does this mean your close to commercial production I mean who would want to make one when a talented guy such as yourself can turn a few out Just saying.

So I have made one for an inmate in Broken Hill who has had his pop out like mine. Its currently glued in, but likes the idea of insurance. He is covering my costs, plus a 6 pack.

Details on how to make your own in the next post, or perhaps I can be convinced to make another? Probably will have to make acouple for invalid mates in Canberra.

[BergDonk]

Why? Because its not unknown for them to pop out of their own accord on a 96 + DR650 and create grief, and its not too hard to do, or very expensive if you do it yourself.

The retainer uses 3 bolts/screws to fix it to the crankcase, #1 is the top crankcase bolt that also secures the electrical earth and tag for the carb drain(s) and #2, the upper bolt securing the gearshift cover, and #3, the upper rear bolt also securing the gearshift cover.

Remove your sprocket cover, and sprocket and clean up any grunge, and remove bolts #1-3 and it should look something like:



Note that the other 3 empty holes are for attaching the sprocket cover, and these are left untouched by this process.

You will need a piece of aluminum sheet, 3 mm thick and about 170 mm x 120 mm rectangular. and then you'll have to drill some holes in it.

The next pic is my cardboard template that you could probably print out and utilise. The key dimensions are on it, and I'll repeat them below.



Using a steel rule, centre punch, and compass:

• Mark holes #1-3 out as indicated. Its a triangle, #1-#2 is 112 mm, #1-#3 is 145 mm and #2-#3 is 74 mm
• Then mark out the cs hole, its cl is 99 mm from #3 and 47 mm from #2

Now drilling

• Drill #1-3 at 6.5 mm dia
• Countersink #1-3 using a 12-13 mm drill, just leaving almost nothing of the original sheet 3 mm thickness
• Drill a 34-40 mm hole for the cs

Now you can trim and tidy up the sheet with a file, sander, wire brush, etc and it might look something like:


Now we need 3 countersunk screws, metric, 6 x 1. I've used socket head stainless steel.
Overall length of each is:

• #1 86 mm
• #2 40 mm
• #3 35 mm

So so far its some scrap aluminum sheet, and some screws from your local engineering supplier which shouldn't be too hard.

Now we need some spacers to get the plate slightly proud of the crankcase, <> 1 mm. Because I have a lathe and some 12 mm bar, I just bored it with a 6.5 mm drill and paired them off. You could use a stack of washers, or whatever, but you'll have to figure out this bit for your self, except I can give you the dimensions they need to be:

• #1 22 mm
• #2 8 mm
• #3 12 mm

Someone can't be too far away with a lathe that can knock these up for you, surely?

If you don't have the earth strap etc at #1 then adjust length to suit. Make sure the overall diameter on the #2 and #3 seats OK on the gear shift cover.

You should then have a collection that looks a bit like:



Note that for assembly I've used some antisieze on the screws.

One last bit needed now before assembly. I've used a 35 x 45 x 2 tap washer from the plumbing supplies. We need this bit because the cs seal sits down beneath the face of the crank case, and its got a bevel on the case. The bevel and recess is <> 1 mm deep, so with a 2 mm thick washer, or you might have a suitable 'O' ring lying about, and the plate sitting a bit less than 1 mm from the case, it snugs up nicely.

Because the the seal OD is 44 mm, I taper the back edge of the washer on a small bench grinder. Look closely at the pic below, and at the lower left seal, and you can see the taper I got. Doesn't have to be too accurate:



So all the bits are ready:



Sit the washer onto the seal and stick it with a smear of your preferred substance. I used some wheel bearing grease. Don't need much, because its just to hold it there while we get the plate over it and bolted up.


And now attach the plate. Its a bit fiddly, and you may curse a bit, but put the plate roughly in place first, then the top bolt and spacer and get it sitting in the hole, but not threaded, then put the lower bolts and spacers in and torque them all up.


The washer should be snug between the plate and css, and now the css can't fall out.

Finish by putting the sprocket and chain back on and the sprocket cover, and its beer o'clock

You could make the plate smaller if you wanted to. I kept it the same as my original with the delrin keeper as it keeps the crankcase clean under it.

And I haven't tested it with a stock 525 chain, but its fine with a 520, and I think its OK with a 525. Who can confrim?

This one will be mailed off, and I'll put my earlier version back on. Its now been there for 5,000 kms and the css hasn't popped out.


EDIT/UPDATE
As posted on the next page, and now tested, this design doesn't really have enough clearance for a 525 chain, but I'll see if I can develop a version that is easy to make and does. I have some more ideas...

[TcRulz]

Hi Steve, great report and excellent information (I would expect nothing less from you). You just need to take the bike for a ride and get some mud on the retainer to make it look OEM Leave the mud on it and the guy from Broken Hill gets a bonus.

[wee-twin]

Thank you for sharing the details. Next rainy day, I will be making one. This should be put in the DR specific section in top of thumpers.

Bill

[LukasM]

Good work Steve!