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Old 03-11-2011, 12:50 PM   #106
ep!c
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
On my last ride, just before pulling the bike down to get the bracketry plated, the bike developed a bit of a rattle, and the fuel tank seemed to be moving about a bit, especially when full.

I found the aluminum bracket that connects the two tank 'wings' together and centres on the frame broken.

I decided to make a new one out of steel. Better now than in the Simpson. Pity the plating is finished, so I guess I'll just paint it for the time being.



I collect all the racks and bits tomorrow from the zinc platers.

Steve
Same thing happened to my stock aluminum brace, so I built a new one out of 3/4" square stock. I went a step further and incorporated my useless passenger pegs into the design; by turning them into folding highway pegs that are now attached to the ends of the new brace.....Kind of nice to be able to change up my seating position on longer freeway stretches...
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Old 03-11-2011, 02:08 PM   #107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ep!c View Post
Same thing happened to my stock aluminum brace, so I built a new one out of 3/4" square stock. I went a step further and incorporated my useless passenger pegs into the design; by turning them into folding highway pegs that are now attached to the ends of the new brace.....Kind of nice to be able to change up my seating position on longer freeway stretches...
So perhaps we have a chronic problem with Safari tanks too? Not sure I could get my feet up that high if I had pegs there though, but I do have the option of moving my feet up to the bash plate.

Steve
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Old 03-11-2011, 07:27 PM   #108
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Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
So perhaps we have a chronic problem with Safari tanks too? Not sure I could get my feet up that high if I had pegs there though, but I do have the option of moving my feet up to the bash plate.

Steve
Yeah, the stock part is pretty weak. Maybe it's designed to flex and "give" in the event of a crash?? not sure, but I do like the tank. 7+ gal. on a DRZ is kind of overkill though. For off-road riding, I usually only put a couple of gallons in it. Kind of nice to have the fuel down low near the engine, so as to gain a lower center of gravity....
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Old 03-11-2011, 07:46 PM   #109
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Bluhduh Trying to fit stabiliser

Blokes

Got a box of bits for the might XR and pulled of the top triple no worries. Fitting the new stuff is a bit different though. The spigot for the stabiliser goes FORWARD to the place where the speedo would be AND is 20mm lower than now. Raising hangers is not as simple as a Ballards bit as the spigot length is set and reversing the spigot (pointing back to tank) is a lot of filing, the oil filler cap won't fit and it will probably hit on the tank.

Not happy Jan!

Need some beer to do some brainstorming
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Old 03-12-2011, 05:10 AM   #110
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Blokes

Got a box of bits for the might XR and pulled of the top triple no worries. Fitting the new stuff is a bit different though. The spigot for the stabiliser goes FORWARD to the place where the speedo would be AND is 20mm lower than now. Raising hangers is not as simple as a Ballards bit as the spigot length is set and reversing the spigot (pointing back to tank) is a lot of filing, the oil filler cap won't fit and it will probably hit on the tank.

Not happy Jan!

Need some beer to do some brainstorming
Bring it down to Jindy a nite in the shed will fix it

just spent 5 hours putting the orange girl back to gether

Rowdy
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Old 03-12-2011, 02:29 PM   #111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ep!c View Post
Yeah, the stock part is pretty weak. Maybe it's designed to flex and "give" in the event of a crash?? not sure, but I do like the tank. 7+ gal. on a DRZ is kind of overkill though. For off-road riding, I usually only put a couple of gallons in it. Kind of nice to have the fuel down low near the engine, so as to gain a lower center of gravity....
I doubt its designed to flex. What I also noticed that with it broken, the tank spread a bit and is not fully supported on the stock frame top tube rubbers. I suspect that more riding with it broken could be a real problem. Should be fixed now though.

A mate recently purchased a new DR and Safari tank for it and I sent him the pics. He said that his bracket is completely different to the one I had, so maybe its sorted now?

And the size is still a bit small. For the Simpson we need 600 km range in sand. Its 600 km now, but not in sand. But you're right, you don't have to fill it, and its then arguably better positioned on the bike than in the stock tank.

And I found my VSM chain catcher has broken too. I'm trying to decide whether to repair it, or do what i should have done in the first place, and make my own. I'll post a pic later.

Still, this was the idea, get a bullet proof bike, and set it up for a big trip, and test everything before I go so I know what works and doesn't. Hopefully no more surprises

Steve
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Old 03-12-2011, 02:31 PM   #112
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Blokes

Got a box of bits for the might XR and pulled of the top triple no worries. Fitting the new stuff is a bit different though. The spigot for the stabiliser goes FORWARD to the place where the speedo would be AND is 20mm lower than now. Raising hangers is not as simple as a Ballards bit as the spigot length is set and reversing the spigot (pointing back to tank) is a lot of filing, the oil filler cap won't fit and it will probably hit on the tank.

Not happy Jan!

Need some beer to do some brainstorming
I got a new angle grinder the other day if you want a lend. You can pick it up on the way through if you like
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Old 03-12-2011, 03:10 PM   #113
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Trying to keep it a bit simpler than Snowy, maybe, and I don't want a broken bit in the Kimberly or Simpson later this year, so some 5 mm and 3 mm plate, and someone who knows 6061 ally and TIG, and voila:





The bearings were removed, and the plates were fitted over the existing welds. The arm was held in a jig while it was done. No material was removed. Notice how little heat was used, the only clear coat removed was done mechanically, none burnt.

Steve
Awesome Steve !

good preemptive strike, I like the tapered ends of the patches lining up with the shock mount
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Old 03-12-2011, 03:26 PM   #114
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Awesome Steve !

good preemptive strike, I like the tapered ends of the patches lining up with the shock mount
It will not break where Snowy has broken it

Yeah, not only have I got to test the DR to destruction before the off, but I'm setting up 2 support 4wds with long range tanks, water tanks, suspension, awnings, CBs etc etc.

Gotta go out to the shed now and buld a new chain catcher.

Steve
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Old 03-12-2011, 10:32 PM   #115
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Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
I doubt its designed to flex. What I also noticed that with it broken, the tank spread a bit and is not fully supported on the stock frame top tube rubbers. I suspect that more riding with it broken could be a real problem. Should be fixed now though.

A mate recently purchased a new DR and Safari tank for it and I sent him the pics. He said that his bracket is completely different to the one I had, so maybe its sorted now?

And the size is still a bit small. For the Simpson we need 600 km range in sand. Its 600 km now, but not in sand. But you're right, you don't have to fill it, and its then arguably better positioned on the bike than in the stock tank.

And I found my VSM chain catcher has broken too. I'm trying to decide whether to repair it, or do what i should have done in the first place, and make my own. I'll post a pic later.

Still, this was the idea, get a bullet proof bike, and set it up for a big trip, and test everything before I go so I know what works and doesn't. Hopefully no more surprises

Steve
One thing I've learned to love/hate......There will ALWAYS be more surprises Have a good trip and ride safe!
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Old 03-12-2011, 10:39 PM   #116
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A mate recently purchased a new DR and Safari tank for it and I sent him the pics. He said that his bracket is completely different to the one I had, so maybe its sorted now?


Rewa's one broke in exact same spot after dalhousie somewhere and we got in touch with aqualine once in alice. Defo a prob with orig design. He sent the new part to alice for us foc (which was great) and we had no probs with the new one for the remaining 3-4000 km that we had the bike. Can't remember the exact difference to be honest, but I'm sure your will be strong.
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Old 03-13-2011, 08:31 PM   #117
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Chaincatcher.

I always use a clip master link on my dirt bike drive chains and have never had a problem. Nevertheless, I like the idea of a sold chaincatcher to reduce the chance of a broken case if something goes wrong.

I got a VSM catcher sprocket cover http://www.vincestrangmotorcycles.co...ase_saver.html

Unfortunately the top monting tang has broken off. Its 4 mm aluminum sheet with a sharp crease so a stress induced fatigue failure perhaps. There is a lso a witnes mark on the underside from the chain contacting it which wouldn't have help. Probably related to the top chain rollers coming out. I did lose mine so when reinstating it, raised it a couple of mm, so this probably didn't help either.

There is not a lot of space in front of the sprocket with a 16t c/s sprocket, and the VSM unit handles a 16t. Having decided on a 15t, I had a bit more room to play with.

I cut up a bit of 10 mm plate to suit. Its spaced 4mm from the cases and centres on the chain. The cover plate is spaced 11 mm from the 10 mm plate.

I used a hole saw to shape the inner circle, and a aluminium cut off disc in an angle grinder to trim the outside. The 4 mm spacers are captive, ie some sheet screwed to the inside, and the cover is 4 mm sheet spaced off the plate that's been drilled and tapped for 6 mm bolts. Spacers were a bit of tube I had lying about, pared off in the lathe. All scrap I had in the shed.

I used the original as a template, and because its flat, its pretty straightforward.

Hopefully this sorts it.





Now to fit the upgraded swingarm. Notice its being cleaned too

Steve
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Old 03-20-2011, 12:24 AM   #118
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Got the racks and other bits and pieces I've fabricated from steel zinc plated and fitted back up. Also got the upgraded swingarm fitted too. Any takers for the standard one?




Steve
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Old 03-20-2011, 12:36 AM   #119
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Looks all nice there Berg Donk, wish i had the time to tinker like you

I am getting there sub frame and rear suspension all overhauled and refitted ,just need to make that safari tank bracket and change the oil ,fit pannier racks and the bashplate /water tank

then double check all equipment to take

cheers
Rowdy
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Old 03-20-2011, 12:38 AM   #120
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Not the best picture, but here is the LED driving lights.



They came from ebay and are 1500 lumens and 30w each, 3 x 500 lumens LEDs each. $150 for the pair. When I initially looked I interpreted the specs as 30 w total, not each, wrong.

I did a test and found that with high beam and the grips on low it was OK but with the grips on high I dropped 0.3 v. Not terminal, but not ideal. Bump starting in the desert isn't first choice.

Back to ebay and a 35 w HID H4 conversion for $60 delivered and a LED tailight bulb and I've saved 25 w or so and its all good.

From what I can figure out, a stock 60/55 w H4 puts out about 800-1000 lumens and the 35 w HID over 3000. Whatever, its all a substantial upgrade in light, and although the LEDs pattern isn't wonderful, its heaps better than none at all and takes a lot of the guesswork out of riding at night. Recommended.

Steve
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