Need help with mounting HB crashbars.

lenny6753 · 01-03-2011, 02:11 PM

I ordered set of Hepco Becker crash bars for my Christmas present to me for my '10 Adventure. I'll try to keep this short but I just spent over an hour trying to mount just one side(left side) to the motorcycle. Between the bolt, spacer, washer, lining up the holes for the upper engine guard(i think that is what it is called), then trying to screw the bolt into the hole without stripping the bolt or bolt hole it is not working.

I don't know if the crash bars are slightly off alignment wise or what but I had to stop before I started throwing tools. Does anyone have any suggestions or pictures that would possibly make this easier? Any help would certainly be appreciated

grinns · 01-03-2011, 02:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lenny6753

I ordered set of Hepco Becker crash bars for my Christmas present to me for my '10 Adventure. I'll try to keep this short but I just spent over an hour trying to mount just one side(left side) to the motorcycle. Between the bolt, spacer, washer, lining up the holes for the upper engine guard(i think that is what it is called), then trying to screw the bolt into the hole without stripping the bolt or bolt hole it is not working.

I don't know if the crash bars are slightly off alignment wise or what but I had to stop before I started throwing tools. Does anyone have any suggestions or pictures that would possibly make this easier? Any help would certainly be appreciated

Don't worry you will get good at putting them on and taking them off.

Mine were a pain to at first.

KTMandu · 01-03-2011, 04:13 PM

http://www.touratech-usa.com/media/Y...370-0310-1.pdf

Hope this helps. Mounting the bars can be a PITA but you'll get it.
I start with the lower bolt first and just thread the bolt in a few turns, then do the same for the bolt over the battery compartment and then move to the bolt that clamps the CB to the frame. Once all three bolts are loosely threaded in, then you can tighten them all a little at a time.

RozzyCat · 01-03-2011, 04:20 PM

I faced the same ordeal recently. I found it much easier to do one side first while keeping the other side intact. This held the guard pretty much in place. Do the lower bolt (engine guard) first and then one going into the tank. That last one - that attaches to the frame - aaaargh!

I'm not looking forward to that next oil change. But practice makes perfect, eh.

killurtv · 01-03-2011, 04:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KTMandu

http://www.touratech-usa.com/media/Y...370-0310-1.pdf

Hope this helps. Mounting the bars can be a PITA but you'll get it.
I start with the lower bolt first and just thread the bolt in a few turns, then do the same for the bolt over the battery compartment and then move to the bolt that clamps the CB to the frame. Once all three bolts are loosely threaded in, then you can tighten them all a little at a time.

+1 on this routine. Just rebuilt my water pump and changed oil, put crash bars back together as described above, perfect.

lenny6753 · 01-03-2011, 05:45 PM

Thanks for the replies. I had to step away from it for the evening as I was thinking some evil thoughts. I'll try again tomorrow.

jeveretts · 01-03-2011, 06:01 PM

+2 this is exactly how I do mine and it works perfect.

Quote:

Originally Posted by killurtv

+1 on this routine. Just rebuilt my water pump and changed oil, put crash bars back together as described above, perfect.

AdvRat · 01-03-2011, 08:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lenny6753

Thanks for the replies. I had to step away from it for the evening as I was thinking some evil thoughts. I'll try again tomorrow.

I am getting ready to deal with the same issue for my new 2010 990 Adventure - I hope you don't mind if I ask a question that kind of relates to this situation, and maybe not? What made you decide to go with the H&B crash guards and not the SW or Touratech? I'm trying to decide on the 2 companies (H&B or SW's) and even thou they are very similair - I guess there is a decent weight and/or build difference. So I'm not sure which ones to go with. I guess SW have much thicker tubing, and weigh a little more, H&B use thinner tubing, weigh less and cost a little more. Sorry if this is a little off track/thread. Thanks & good luck, I'll be there in a couple weeks myself if I ever decide - they will be my Christmas present also from my Christmas farkle money.

Iwantabikesobad · 01-03-2011, 08:59 PM

Someone a few weeks ago posted about using studs inplace of the 2 bolts holding the battery cover. This makes a lot of since and is on my list of stuff to do. This will really help with installing the bars

Subutai · 01-03-2011, 10:57 PM

What are you crying about, I removed the chain guard, or whatsamacallit, well the plastic thing between the swingarm and the rear wheel on the chain side. Two screws on top, one under. The screw on the underside did not strip, THE FUCKER CAME OUT WITH THE THREAD!

Great, brand new '10 bike. Guess did it line up when I put it back together? ..and trying to make the screw seat on the thread what was left in there was great. Prolly have to glue it on with thread locker or something.

I've got SW Motech bars coming, let's see if they are such an ordeal as yours.

kirb · 01-04-2011, 07:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Iwantabikesobad

Someone a few weeks ago posted about using studs inplace of the 2 bolts holding the battery cover. This makes a lot of since and is on my list of stuff to do. This will really help with installing the bars

Having the studs in the area under the radiator is ideal. You first hook that hole up, rotate the bars, get the lower hole over the side tank, and then line up the frame clamp. Put the lower bolt in a few turns, and push the frame clamp up the frame to get the correct alignment. Clamp the frame down, then tighten the lower bolt, then put the nut on the studs.

Takes me about 5 minutes to install both sides now and saves the threads in that cast part.

skipman · 01-04-2011, 08:24 AM

You definately get better with practice. One problem i was having was the bottom bolt on the tank. I use a allen or screwdriver inserted behind the threaded clip(prying it outward and holding it steady) when starting the bolt it's helped me alot. Just a thought.

ten_fiver · 01-04-2011, 06:01 PM

Crash-bar stud mounts. This will help you prevent the inevitable stripped threads above the battery box.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=626041

lenny6753 · 01-04-2011, 06:17 PM

Thanks for all the help. I haven't got around to working on 'em again but will this week. The stud mounts are a good idea.

AdvRat - The only real reason I chose the HB bars over SW was I liked the look of the HB's better, for what that is worth. I cannot comment on the design or sturdiness of one vs the other.

ten_fiver · 01-04-2011, 06:38 PM

Advrat: can't really compare the other brands, but I have the SW's. They are very solid, and I like the cross-brace by the radiator.

About the mounting studs: trust me, those bolts on the battery box are the ones that are the trickiest to get in (imo) and the threads will strip in a heartbeat. There were a few thrown tools when I stripped my first one.

01-03-2011, 02:11 PM	#1
lenny6753 ^OP Adventurer Joined: Apr 2010 Oddometer: 87	Need help with mounting HB crashbars. I ordered set of Hepco Becker crash bars for my Christmas present to me for my '10 Adventure. I'll try to keep this short but I just spent over an hour trying to mount just one side(left side) to the motorcycle. Between the bolt, spacer, washer, lining up the holes for the upper engine guard(i think that is what it is called), then trying to screw the bolt into the hole without stripping the bolt or bolt hole it is not working. I don't know if the crash bars are slightly off alignment wise or what but I had to stop before I started throwing tools. Does anyone have any suggestions or pictures that would possibly make this easier? Any help would certainly be appreciated

01-03-2011, 04:13 PM	#3
KTMandu Adventurer Wannabe Joined: Sep 2007 Location: Lafayette, LA Oddometer: 316	http://www.touratech-usa.com/media/Y...370-0310-1.pdf Hope this helps. Mounting the bars can be a PITA but you'll get it. I start with the lower bolt first and just thread the bolt in a few turns, then do the same for the bolt over the battery compartment and then move to the bolt that clamps the CB to the frame. Once all three bolts are loosely threaded in, then you can tighten them all a little at a time. __________________ 06 950 Adv 06 400 EXC 03 200 EXC 00 300 EXC

01-03-2011, 08:59 PM	#9
Iwantabikesobad Beastly Adventurer Joined: Jul 2007 Location: Bakersfield Ca. USA Oddometer: 1,001	reply Someone a few weeks ago posted about using studs inplace of the 2 bolts holding the battery cover. This makes a lot of since and is on my list of stuff to do. This will really help with installing the bars __________________ Good safe riding to all. Yes it's my Bike, No I wont help ya move! Proud member of Father & Daughter riding club 09 KTM Adv. The Orange ones are faster!

01-04-2011, 06:01 PM	#13
ten_fiver Beastly Adventurer Joined: May 2008 Location: Evanston, Wyoming Oddometer: 1,456	Crash-bar stud mounts. This will help you prevent the inevitable stripped threads above the battery box. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=626041 __________________ '08 KTM 990 Adv.

01-04-2011, 06:38 PM	#15
ten_fiver Beastly Adventurer Joined: May 2008 Location: Evanston, Wyoming Oddometer: 1,456	Advrat: can't really compare the other brands, but I have the SW's. They are very solid, and I like the cross-brace by the radiator. About the mounting studs: trust me, those bolts on the battery box are the ones that are the trickiest to get in (imo) and the threads will strip in a heartbeat. There were a few thrown tools when I stripped my first one. __________________ '08 KTM 990 Adv.

01-03-2011, 04:20 PM	#4
RozzyCat Bleeds orange Joined: Sep 2010 Location: Land of cornfields Oddometer: 291	I faced the same ordeal recently. I found it much easier to do one side first while keeping the other side intact. This held the guard pretty much in place. Do the lower bolt (engine guard) first and then one going into the tank. That last one - that attaches to the frame - aaaargh! I'm not looking forward to that next oil change. But practice makes perfect, eh.

01-03-2011, 05:45 PM	#6
lenny6753 ^OP Adventurer Joined: Apr 2010 Oddometer: 87	Thanks for the replies. I had to step away from it for the evening as I was thinking some evil thoughts. I'll try again tomorrow.

01-03-2011, 10:57 PM	#10
Subutai Studly Adventurer Joined: Nov 2010 Oddometer: 555	What are you crying about, I removed the chain guard, or whatsamacallit, well the plastic thing between the swingarm and the rear wheel on the chain side. Two screws on top, one under. The screw on the underside did not strip, THE FUCKER CAME OUT WITH THE THREAD! Great, brand new '10 bike. Guess did it line up when I put it back together? ..and trying to make the screw seat on the thread what was left in there was great. Prolly have to glue it on with thread locker or something. I've got SW Motech bars coming, let's see if they are such an ordeal as yours.

01-04-2011, 08:24 AM	#12
skipman Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Apr 2010 Location: east tn Oddometer: 171	You definately get better with practice. One problem i was having was the bottom bolt on the tank. I use a allen or screwdriver inserted behind the threaded clip(prying it outward and holding it steady) when starting the bolt it's helped me alot. Just a thought.

01-04-2011, 06:17 PM	#14
lenny6753 ^OP Adventurer Joined: Apr 2010 Oddometer: 87	Thanks for all the help. I haven't got around to working on 'em again but will this week. The stud mounts are a good idea. AdvRat - The only real reason I chose the HB bars over SW was I liked the look of the HB's better, for what that is worth. I cannot comment on the design or sturdiness of one vs the other.

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