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Old 06-08-2013, 04:44 PM   #1
davebeef OP
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1970 Moto Guzzi Ambassador Recommission

Right guys. I'm fast runnin out of excuses not to get started on this relic so here starts a new thread. Hope some of you can help this sad individual along the way. And the bike as well.

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davebeef screwed with this post 06-08-2013 at 05:02 PM
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Old 06-09-2013, 03:21 AM   #2
nick949eldo
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What's the problem? It looks ready for a trans-continental tour right now.

Nick
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Old 06-09-2013, 04:34 AM   #3
England-Kev
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like Nick says, good to go, can we have a ride report next weekend then Dave?

if I can help in any way just let me know.
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Old 06-09-2013, 04:45 AM   #4
danedg
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Set no schedule, Ignore your budget and you'll be fine!
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Old 06-09-2013, 02:50 PM   #5
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Thanks guys.
I intend to do the mechanicals and run for a year or so before considering cosmetics. Some may disagree however I don't have much disposable cash and I would prefer just to do whats needed.
So.... In at the deep end...
What should I be loosening before stripping down heads, barrells etc?
Don't want to get caught out.
Rgds
Dave.

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Old 06-09-2013, 03:40 PM   #6
England-Kev
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Nothing Dave, just dive straight in.

you will need a 26mm socket, and a long 10mm allen key, for the recessed bolt. I chopped an old allen key down, to use with a 10mm socket.

Undo the exhaust nut, undo the carb bolts, undo the rocker cover bolts, and remove cover.
undo the 10mm bolts on top of rocker gear, and push out rocker shafts (keep separate) remove pushrods (keep separate) remove large 26mm bolt at 12 o-clock, undo the 5 17mm nuts, (one is by spark plug) , and 10mm recessed cap head bolt (under 26mm cover bolt) tap with rubber mallet, and that is it. It only takes 20mins.

Have fun.
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Old 06-09-2013, 10:33 PM   #7
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Cheers Kev.
What about the big crank dynamo pulley nut at the front? I assume that is better loosened at this stage?
DB
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Old 06-09-2013, 11:35 PM   #8
jeffm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davebeef View Post
Cheers Kev.
What about the big crank dynamo pulley nut at the front? I assume that is better loosened at this stage?
DB
Yes! Put it in gear, have someone stand on the rear brake and reef on the nut. The alternative is to buy the special guzzi tool. After you separate the engine and transmission, the guzzi tool can be bolted onto one of the rear engine case threads and locks the flywheel in place. I've never been able to find one, so I usually put the tranny in 4th and have someone stand on the rear break.

Guzzi chrome lined cylinders flake and clog the oil passages, so expect to tear the engine down completely and clean out all the passages. Don't forget to clean the crank trap out - if it is clogged, no oil will flow to the big end con rod bearings and bad things happen. Also expect to replace the cylinders. Even if the chrome looks Ok, it is not.
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Old 06-10-2013, 04:55 AM   #9
danedg
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Take a million photos of everything you touch, tag and bag everything you remove. Label the wiring as it comes apart.
You'll thank yourself a year from now.
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Old 06-10-2013, 05:03 AM   #10
danedg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffm View Post
Yes! Put it in gear, have someone stand on the rear brake and reef on the nut. The alternative is to buy the special guzzi tool. After you separate the engine and transmission, the guzzi tool can be bolted onto one of the rear engine case threads and locks the flywheel in place. I've never been able to find one, so I usually put the tranny in 4th and have someone stand on the rear break.

Guzzi chrome lined cylinders flake and clog the oil passages, so expect to tear the engine down completely and clean out all the passages. Don't forget to clean the crank trap out - if it is clogged, no oil will flow to the big end con rod bearings and bad things happen. Also expect to replace the cylinders. Even if the chrome looks Ok, it is not.
First determine that the cylinders are chrome or not. Get a skinny little magnet that will fit through the sparkplug hole.
If it does not stick, then you have chrome lined cylinders. (More than likely) If sticks a little bit, you have Nigusil teated cylinders.( Highly unlikely) If it sticks hard, you have steel lined cylinders. ( It's possible)
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Old 06-10-2013, 09:14 AM   #11
England-Kev
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Dave make sure you drop the sump, good chance to see what ls floating around, this is important, but no one ever mentions it,

and don't forget to take pictures, we all love pictures
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Old 06-10-2013, 02:03 PM   #12
danedg
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Seals, ORings & Gaskets

Dave,
I think the bit I was least prepared for was the delays in getting the right seals. On my BMW I got lucky with cross referencing the seals and sourcing them locally. Not so with the Guzzi. They are VERY specific and not used on many other machines. As I was trying to reassemble I would find another rubber bit that would need replacement and it would be another weeks delay before it arrived. I've become mates with Gordon/Rick at MG Cycle over here. Not only do they have the parts, they know what parts you need better than you! Parts for the Ambassador are not used on the Eldorado or the other V7 etc.....On the other hand, I use Stein Dinse' parts fiche for the numbers.
You can count on the GasketsSeal and Orings to need replacing.
That means you're going in deep!
I got my engine/tranny gasket kit from Harper's Moto Guzzi. It worked well.
You are probably going to have to replace the steering head bearings.
Wheels, engine, swingarm, tranny, forks all require specific oil seals, you might as well order them now...there are no "kits" for such that I am aware of.
These motors use a lot of o rings. Ask England Kev! Again, I can't produce a list for all of them on your bike, but maybe SteinDinse can talk you thru it...
Greg Benders' site This Old Tractor, is a wealth of knowledge and info. I've only contacted him a couple of times, but he Emailed back with the right answers! His wiring harnesses are fantastic.


So! How many miles are showing?
At 46,000 US miles, besides the chrome bores, my bike PROBABLY would have started and run.
For a while.
Most of the engine specs were right at the outside edge of tolerance.
The heads were flabby, the bearing shells were bearded, the front and rear bearings barely cut the mustard... it was old and tired. The rear drive got completely rebuilt.

You are going to have a lot of fun!
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Old 06-10-2013, 02:53 PM   #13
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Thanks for the advice guys. It is ALL appreciated. I have rebuilt numerous Brit bikes including Velocettes but this is my first Guzzi. The digital camera has being pushed into service and piles of freezer bags raided from the house.
I do intend to fully strip the motor, 'box and back end and replace/ mend as required. I have budgeted for new barrels and pistons so that didn't come as a nasty shock.
The seal business is a little concerning and is something I will need to enquire about with the suggeted parties. Got started tonight, firstly with that pulley nut at the front. My It was f***in tight and needed a breaker bar, heavy hammer and my old man and his full weight standing on the brake lever. But loosen it did and its a start. Now where did I leave that puller.........
Thanks again guys,
D.

Ps I assume the pulley pulls off complete not requiring the three small bolts to be removed?
pps. The bike is sitting about 50K miles or that's whats showing anyway.

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Old 06-10-2013, 04:00 PM   #14
danedg
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CAREFULLY observe the pulley and it's relation to the other parts.
Mark it's position to the cranknose, timing case cover and distributor NOW!
The rear half of the pulley has four marks on it. Find and mark the fourth one on the left. Make sure everything gets marked as it now sits....
There is an arrow on the timing case cover right behind the pulley. Clean it up and mark it with some nail polish.
The fourth mark lines up with the arrow, and that gives you TDC on the left cylinder.
DON"T LOSE IT!

That pulley mark also determines the keyway slot on the crankshaft that will line up your timing gears and ultimately your camshaft. It's real handy to line up the clutch flywheel assembly from the other end as well.
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danedg screwed with this post 06-10-2013 at 04:06 PM
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Old 06-10-2013, 10:40 PM   #15
davebeef OP
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Nice one. I'll do that however I will probably strip the heads, barrels etc and get the motor up on the bench before I remove the pulley. Just had to get that nut loosened...
D.
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