XS650 Appresh

[2manyrides]

Originally Posted by buffaloborn

Posted this on XS650.com. if anyone can help that'd be great.

"Hey everyone,

I have a 1983 XS650 Heritage Special. I changed out the bars on the bike, from Buckhorns to the Euro bars. I rerouted the throttle cable, as directed from another thread from the right side of the tank to the left side of the tank, and under the controls. There is no significant loop as far as I can tell, but the damn thing kicks into a 4000 rpm idle when I start her, and increases without me even touching the throttle. I don't want to take the bike to a mechanic, as I'm fairly mechanically inclined. This is my first bike.

What am I doing wrong? Should I also reroute the clutch cable? Would this make a big difference with regards to this problem? Can I adjust the throttle? Or is this an issue regarding the idle screw?

Does anyone have pictures or youtube videos of switching bars using stock cables?"

I think it would be a little tough to diagnos this from a far.
But you might try this.
If you think you cable is in good shape then...
Take the tank off and route the cable in the most "open air" way you can...set your tank backwards on the seat to hook up a gas supply and fire it up.
Then if it works properly you've just found your problem...
You were binding somewhere...
Try it all again.

Really doesn't matter what routing you have as long as it's long enough and doesn't hang up.

My particular routing is from the throttle, slung under and along the bars, through the center of the instument cluster to the left side of the frame. Along the backbone, and eminating from the tank's tunnel right down the the carbs.
Of course I have a STD and a STD cable, but I do have lower bars than stock. It makes some pretty good bends but doesn't hang up like yours seens to be.
With the cable disconnected at the carb, operating the throttle, do you perceive any resistance?

[hunter_greyghost]

Handling;
After checking & replacing the swingarm bushes & steeringhead bearings, the next big one is to replace the front fork springs with progressive types & progressive sprung rear shocks [good quality ones].
Then you move onto tyres, my preference is;
Road type [black top] - Metzler M880 front & rear [found they work well even on dirt],
General dirt riding;- K70 Dunlop [19"] on the front & K460 Dunlop [16"] on the rear.

Cheers
Baza

[2manyrides]

Originally Posted by hunter_greyghost

Handling;
replace the front fork springs with progressive types.

Cheers
Baza

Us cheap SOB's cut a 1" long piece of 3/4" galvanized pipe and shove it in on top of the stock spring!

[gordonscott]

Originally Posted by hunter_greyghost

Gordon,


Those homemade pipes on the 'Kenny Krazyhorse', work well but need to be moved higher up [just under tank], how tight a bend can a bloke do with out compromising flow?
Cheers
Baza

Hi Baza, The tightest bend I use with a 1 1/2" od tube is bent on a 2 1/4" radius. No problems and performs great (better then stock) on the dyno, hope this helps.

[gordonscott]

I aggree with "manyrides" Take off the tank and let the cable hang and try it. I've had a few xs's that where very fusy about cable routing and would rev just by turning the handlebars.

[gordonscott]

Originally Posted by bpeckm

Nice looking website, gordonscott........ wishing you all the best, and will keep you in mind when and if I ever find that xs650 I have my eyes peeled for....

Thanks alot mate, I do appreciate it And nice Beemer you got there, I'm a cafe guy myself, Ton up!

[buffaloborn]

i hate to admit it and this is very embarrassing, but I've never taken the tank off of a bike.

is it easy? i am the ultimate newbie. i have the clymer and the other manuals, and i'm not intimidated by it or anything, but is it a significant job? am i going to have to resync my carbs or anything?

[jamesgs4]

its pretty easy, you wont have to mess with your carbs or anything like that.

[hunter_greyghost]

Originally Posted by gordonscott

Hi Baza, The tightest bend I use with a 1 1/2" od tube is bent on a 2 1/4" radius. No problems and performs great (better then stock) on the dyno, hope this helps.

Thanks Gordon, now to start playing with pipe!
Cheers
Baza

[hunter_greyghost]

Originally Posted by 22manyrides

Us cheap SOB's cut a 1" long piece of 3/4" galvanized pipe and shove it in on top of the stock spring!

Did that when I had a sidecar attached years ago! Doesn't really stiffen them up!
Cheers
Baza

[2manyrides]

Originally Posted by buffaloborn

i hate to admit it and this is very embarrassing, but I've never taken the tank off of a bike.

is it easy? i am the ultimate newbie. i have the clymer and the other manuals, and i'm not intimidated by it or anything, but is it a significant job? am i going to have to resync my carbs or anything?

Ha, ha...
I imagine you've done it by the time I write this but...
Super simple to do.
One 10mm bolt at back, two gas lines.
Detach lines from petcocks, remove bolt, lift tank above bolt's post, wiggle rear of tank while slowly pulling back. Thus sliding receivers off the front gromets.

[buffaloborn]

Originally Posted by 22manyrides

Ha, ha...
I imagine you've done it by the time I write this but...
Super simple to do.
One 10mm bolt at back, two gas lines.
Detach lines from petcocks, remove bolt, lift tank above bolt's post, wiggle rear of tank while slowly pulling back. Thus sliding receivers off the front gromets.

You're the best. Thanks man.

[hunter_greyghost]

Took these photos on Saturday, view from the verandah



looking north-west toward Bowning




looking south-west toward Wee Jasper

Cheers
Baza

[BIG ED XT FAN]

Originally Posted by gordonscott

Hi Baza, The tightest bend I use with a 1 1/2" od tube is bent on a 2 1/4" radius. No problems and performs great (better then stock) on the dyno, hope this helps.

How about a photo of the front of the bike? Pipes look great!!

[hunter_greyghost]

Originally Posted by BIG ED XT FAN

How about a photo of the front of the bike? Pipes look great!!

+1, would like to scope out the look of the front angle too!
Cheers
Baza