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Old 01-23-2011, 04:40 AM   #16
MZcountryboy OP
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Location: Northeast Kingdom, Vermont USA (close to Canada!)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anorak View Post
Split the exhaust. Put a glasspack on one pipe and turbo muffler on the other. It'll bark.
I was thinking one exhaust with a cut-out connected to the hand throttle knob. Quiet + stealth when you need it, and loud ass mayhem while it's doin' the one wheel peel.

The panel truck uses a frame mounted fuel tank like a modern pickup (inboard of the frame rail) so a dual exhaust would be difficult to route.

We'll see how it progresses.........

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Old 01-23-2011, 05:00 AM   #17
MZcountryboy OP
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Meanwhile the body has turned into a shelf - - a good place to start piling up body repair patch panels. The body is alot worse than the pics show, I guess I shouldn't be surprised anymore.



The metal over the top of the windshield was all perforated, and there is no panel available to repair it. Let the record show, that MZ is not a bodyman, but has a welder and a grinder, and is pretty stubborn.

The lip that holds the windshield gasket is part of a compound curve with two 90 bends in it. Not the easiest thing to replicate. I figured I would start with the harderst section, to make sure it was doable.



I made 3 or 4 little sections, and welded them in. Hard to see in the photos, but this part is a total PITA.



I put a bit of "teaser" black primer to it, to up the ante in desire to make the rest of it look black primer. Actually, I was hoping it would spread to the rest of the truck, like the rust did, but that seems to be working out very poorly.



Meanwhile, back at casa de MZ - the engine has been degreased, and it and the chassis were moved to my house for the winter. The engine will be torn down, checked over, and rebuilt to run stock to start with.



At this point you can see problem #1 - this 6 cylinder (out of a '71 nova according to the engine #s) runs side mounts like the V8.

My original 6 cyl, (which I don't have) used a single front mount. HMMMM..........

Good thing the resto-re-pop catalogs sell a "tubular crossmember" to allow the side mount V8 to be installed in early truck frames.

GM - also made the 6 and the 8 share mounting systems, so the engine I sourced will work with the crossmember.

MZcountryboy screwed with this post 01-23-2011 at 01:23 PM
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Old 01-23-2011, 05:58 AM   #18
MZcountryboy OP
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Before I can go too much further with the crossmember, I need to bolt it up to the transmission and bellhousing to make some measurements, and fit the crossmember to the frame in the right spot.

I've cleaned up the bellhousing and repainted it, and I started my Muncie 3 speed saga shortly thereafter.



Before I can put the trans in, I need to tear it down and put new seals/gaskets to it. I've never had one of these apart, but with only 3 speeds, how hard can it be? There are only a couple of gaskets.....





Well, I don't have pics of it apart, but the transmission has an input shaft that nests into the output shaft, and are connected by sliding sleeves. Pretty standard stuff. I pull it apart, and loose needle bearing rollers fly everywhere, two different sizes of them even. FUCK. FUCK. FUCK!!!!

They are stuck everywhere, in the gear teeth, the inside of the box, all over the bench. Whoa up the train!!! We need the internet!!!

Had to find a schematic of where the loose rollers went, and a roller count, so I can be sure they go back into the right place.



That is actually a later trans, but I couldn't find the diagram I used before. On the top shaft, you can see the "rollers" - they go into a blind hole in the end of the input shaft on two different races...... Pack'em on the output shaft with heavy grease, and slide it all back together, without loosing any - I got it on the first try. Put the 'ol school indian head gasket shellac (give'r a shellackin'!) to it thick, and repaint it.



Now, we can see about mounting that up to the chassis, so we can measure the driveshaft. I have two shafts to pick from, a two piece, and a one piece, both are too long. I'm going to go with the one piece, and it needs to be cut down 3 1/8" to fit.

We used the tractor to lower the engine into place, to locate the crossmember -





Mark the crossmember locations, pull the engine + trans back out -
Here is a good shot of the new crossmember -


MZcountryboy screwed with this post 01-23-2011 at 06:04 AM
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Old 01-23-2011, 07:49 AM   #19
Hughlysses
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6=8

http://www.cliffordperformance.net/
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Old 01-23-2011, 08:14 AM   #20
Cogswell
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This should be good, I'm in.


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Old 01-23-2011, 08:22 AM   #21
MZcountryboy OP
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Next step is to tear down the motor and see where it's at - being a '71 - it probably needs to have hardened valve seats put in it.



I found a bad pushrod, short by 1/8" and of course the rocker arm that goes with it was bad, and the head of the valve looked like a old cold chisel, all mushroomed over. Head is off to the machine shop, along with the flywheel, which had seen some action. Getting the full valve job done.



Judging from the orange paint on the edge of the oil pan gasket, it looked like the oil pan had never been off this engine. Good news. Pulled the rear main cap, bearings look like brand new. Bores have some wear (in spec though), and the camshaft is worn. The plan is to leave the bearings + bores alone, have the head totally re-done, install a new cam, lifters, pushrods, rockers, timing gears and a new oil pump. Seals, etc - rebuild the rochester mono-jet carb, and we'll run it like that for a few years, and then perhaps build some "other" engine in the meantime.







turns out the carb is missing the fast idle cam + rod linkage, anyone have one of these carbs kicking around? Carb is ok, had a torn pull off diaphragm, and I put a new float in. Don't need the fast idle stuff to get it running anyways.



I dropped off my starter at the auto electric place last week, the driveshaft goes to the machine shop this week.

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Old 01-23-2011, 08:24 AM   #22
ducnek
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Can ya fit a dirt bike in it?

Cool truck.

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Old 01-23-2011, 08:29 AM   #23
MZcountryboy OP
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I already have the correct cargo load for the rear, and yes, a bike will fit in it.

The cargo load I have just needs crank seals replaced. When it is done and both rigs are rolling, I'm headed to a f'n ADV rally with this pair.



I'm going to try to relive "On Any Sunday" to the best of my abilities!!!

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Old 01-23-2011, 09:00 AM   #24
Gimpinator
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Color me jealous!

I think calling your project a "rat rod" is a disservice. You're doing all the right things to make it a solid driver. Great work! I'll be looking forward to more posts.
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Old 01-23-2011, 02:35 PM   #25
mike
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Old 01-23-2011, 02:53 PM   #26
MZcountryboy OP
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I got a pile of patch panels, and cut the rust out of the floors, and the step-plates/rockers. I had to replace the front cab mounts as well, they were bad. I rebuilt the lower cowls, and door posts/a pillars.



I took measurements of the door opening before cutting out the step plates and the floor pans. One side at at a time!!!



Ancient Metalworkers Proverb -

"he who bad with welder destined to be great with grinder"








More primer on the front, I'm using SEM self etching primer in a rattle-can.





Working on the radiator support pieces. This was all apart when I got it, and a bit of a puzzle putting it back together.



The sheel metal in the front end is surprisingly good. Except for the fenders, but I have two sets.

We're gaining!!!!!!

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Old 01-23-2011, 03:24 PM   #27
assquatch20
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You're after my heart on this one. There's two of those around here that neither owner would part with.
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Old 01-23-2011, 04:39 PM   #28
EvilClown
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That's really coming along nice, Scott!

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Old 01-23-2011, 04:50 PM   #29
2twisted
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Looking good Scott
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Old 01-23-2011, 05:10 PM   #30
TouringDave
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Ooooh, this is good!


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