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02-01-2011, 04:27 PM
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#106 |
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Dude Buddha
Joined: Feb 2007
Location: Yukon
Oddometer: 575
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[QUOTE=Roadracer_Al;15032660]Living the dream, MZ! I have similar fantasies about '50s era Willys wagons. This is why I hate the internet -- because it makes undertakings like this seem reasonable.
I'm not jealous of the panel, I'm jealous of your garage - and as the happy owner of 3 Willys 4x4 wagons, very jealous that you can find re-pop parts so readily. Well, OK, the panel is lovely too. Of course I also have an FJ45 one ton Toyota 4x4 truck, so I guess I like the odd ball stuff. Nice work. I must builds me a big shop this year. And it has to be big enough to take the Hagglunds BV206 on the trailer... |
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02-01-2011, 05:37 PM
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#107 |
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Ouch.. Ta Daaaaaa..
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Very cool!!!
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02-02-2011, 03:19 AM
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#108 |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Apr 2005
Location: Northeast Kingdom, Vermont USA (close to Canada!)
Oddometer: 5,201
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Jeez-louise - you weren't kidding aobut the bits falling off. Are both the headlights taped in? I suppose they weren't bright enough to worry about aiming them anyways..............
![]() Thanks for digging that up - |
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02-02-2011, 06:47 AM
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#109 |
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Careening forward
Joined: Oct 2005
Location: Santa Fe, N.M.
Oddometer: 5,662
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The tape would get wet and the headlights would fall right out onto the street.
__________________
KLX 400 dual sport Tune in, turn on, drop out. |
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02-02-2011, 11:30 AM
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#110 | |
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A proud pragmatist.
Joined: Nov 2009
Location: Hiding off Hwy 6, B.C.
Oddometer: 2,859
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Quote:
![]() But I tought that chrome looked familiar, after all I learned to drive on a 57 Chevy PU, 4x4.
__________________
Have tools, will travel!
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02-13-2011, 04:13 AM
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#111 |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Apr 2005
Location: Northeast Kingdom, Vermont USA (close to Canada!)
Oddometer: 5,201
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Got my starter motor back from Wild Auto Electric in Barre, VT - They took my starter apart,checked it all over, replaced the solenoid, rebushed the drive gear pinion, and shot a *really* thin coat of paint on it. Looks great, and only cost me $44. I was astounded.
![]() The machine shop doing the driveshaft called - it's ready!......... |
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02-13-2011, 05:16 AM
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#112 | |
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Down & Out
Joined: Oct 2005
Location: Powhatan, VA
Oddometer: 2,928
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Quote:
The "thin" coat of paint on the starter provides a good patina. |
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02-13-2011, 02:58 PM
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#113 |
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1.5 Finger Discount
Joined: Apr 2007
Location: DFW, Texas
Oddometer: 20,075
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Fuckin
!
__________________
"Try turning that burn into torque. Then we're getting somewhere. Riding the potato to work seems quite impractical." - anotherguy "Never bring a Nerf gun to a shovel fight." - My Brother |
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02-18-2011, 03:55 AM
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#114 |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Apr 2005
Location: Northeast Kingdom, Vermont USA (close to Canada!)
Oddometer: 5,201
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been snowmobiling with my Dad, who is up from FLA. Haven't made much progress, but a few things are coming into place.
got some more primer on - ![]() yesterday, I tangled with the door latch + remotes on the d/s rear barn door. this is the center latch, that uses pivots + link rods to activate the upper + lower door latches. The two square blocks pivot and the link rods thread into them. It was all frozen, and both link rods broken. ![]() broken link rod - ![]() the threads are #10 x 24 - pretty small. cut the threads off, weld on a piece of machine screw. The other end of the link rod has a large pan-head screw head for adjusting, and cannot be easily duplicated. ![]() lower latch was frozen on one side, and the attachment arm was broken. welded that up. ![]() ![]() I had to drill/tap one of the lower retaining bolt holes. ![]() I got it all back together + functioning, the bottom of the door where the lower latch bolts in had rusted badly, letting the latch move around. Welded a small patch in, and now it is secure. Scored a p/s barn door check strap assembly off ebay, mine was mia. The rear doors are now working good, I may not take them off. |
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02-18-2011, 06:44 AM
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#115 |
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"Cool" Aid!
Joined: Feb 2005
Location: Alexandria, VA
Oddometer: 41,497
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That is looking great! Nice work on the paint and door hardware!
![]() Jim
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02-18-2011, 11:32 AM
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#116 |
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Countersteer it.
Joined: Sep 2007
Location: SE Ohio
Oddometer: 2,847
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Damn. I just got to the last post on the last page and I feel like someone just put poop on my cupcake.
Good stuff MZ....can't wait for more.
__________________
Don't know why I'm lost all the time... Everyone is always telling me where to go. |
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02-27-2011, 03:50 PM
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#117 |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Apr 2005
Location: Northeast Kingdom, Vermont USA (close to Canada!)
Oddometer: 5,201
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here we go, this afternoon - ripping into the bottom end, changing the oil pump + rear main seal.
old pump - ![]() new pump - melling stock volume/pressure ![]() oil screen/pickup reintalled - ![]() I'm going to change the cam and timing gears for new ones - ![]() the camshaft is worn in a few places. it's outta here! ![]() fuel pump lobe - ![]() lobe with wear - ![]() rear main seal is next - |
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02-27-2011, 04:12 PM
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#118 |
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Studly Adventurer
Joined: Jan 2007
Location: Flatlands of NJ
Oddometer: 581
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Chassis and body are looking great ! Noice work, great choice. Subscribed!
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02-27-2011, 04:29 PM
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#119 |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Apr 2005
Location: Northeast Kingdom, Vermont USA (close to Canada!)
Oddometer: 5,201
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lifters are out!
![]() pulling the cam gear off - ![]() pulling the crank gear off ![]() new crank gear on - ![]() rear main seal out - 1/2 of it anyways. ![]() new main seal 1/2 in - ![]() the other half going in - ![]() all in, a dab or two of rtv to seal the halves together - ![]() new cam gear on new cam - ![]() lotsofassemblylube - and it will be good to go in! ![]() easy!!!!! slow!!!!!!!! ![]() all in - make sure the dots line up w/each other!
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02-27-2011, 05:29 PM
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#120 |
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"Whitebread"
Joined: Mar 2008
Location: Marion, Ohio
Oddometer: 9,331
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Looking good!
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