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Old 02-22-2011, 06:22 PM   #121
GI_JO_NATHAN
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Awesome!!
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Old 02-23-2011, 07:29 PM   #122
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Here is the turbo oil fitting installed. Notice the oil lines hanging below the engine. One time I came back from a trail ride and oil was dripping from them. Something had almost knocked a line off and I nearly had a very bad day.

I'm going to fix this by cutting and re-welding the lines to tuck them in better. Then a skid plate will be fabbed up.

I was completely serious, one reason for this turbo project was to make the bike a better off roader.



Oil lines getting surgery.



Rough cutting a skid plate from 3/16 aircraft aluminum.

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Old 02-23-2011, 08:24 PM   #123
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Sub-thread?

Looking forward to details on the skid plate. I need to get one made for my dorsoduro, and expect you will teach me a couple of things.
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Old 02-26-2011, 03:46 PM   #124
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Before cutting the skid plate down to its final size it was decided to make the turbo oil return plumbing. This way I could be sure the plumbing would be protected by the skid plate.

A gamble I'm taking on this project is to use stock dry sump scavenge pump to pull oil from the turbo. Turbo discharge oil can get aerated to the point it looks like foam latte. This doesn't drain well by gravity unless the drain is the size of a garden hose and is quite vertical. I'll try a smaller hose and route it straight to the scavenge pump inlet. Conveniently, this is right under the oil screen. The pic below shows the stock cover and 3 different approaches to attaching a fitting.

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Old 02-26-2011, 04:24 PM   #125
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Here is what I came up with. The reason for trying three different approaches was my welder circuit breaker was tripping at 30 amps so the thick aluminum wouldn't weld. Also, I couldn't find a 3/8 NPT tap to buy anywhere near my house. The thinner (3/16) aluminum welded OK. New circuit breakers should come soon. Hopefully there won't be a delay to the project.

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Old 02-26-2011, 08:52 PM   #126
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Fabbed four brackets to support the skid plate. A longer motor mount bolt is needed at the back. The front brackets attach to the cases.

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Old 02-26-2011, 09:10 PM   #127
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Here is a better view of the front skid plate mounts attached to the cases. This part of the case is really stout. Its were the stock exhaust was supported. A mounting boss for the very front of the skidplate will get welded to the oil tank later.

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Old 02-26-2011, 10:39 PM   #128
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The way you have tapped the oil covers is too simple. I hope the return oil line is a success. Also, very nice ideas for the skid plate mounting tabs. The skid looks like it will be close to the case without much air gap. Would a bit of gap, maybe .375" between the skid and case give better protection from rock intrusion with the heavier bike? A bit of stand off might allow deformation of the plate to absorb more of the blow, before it hits the cases.

Then again, maybe we ride in different rocks. I have basalt teeth randomly sticking out of the ground in many inconvenient places around here. The sound of my pipes getting raked through a yump still haunts me.
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Old 02-27-2011, 07:07 AM   #129
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Originally Posted by snowhawk jockey View Post
The way you have tapped the oil covers is too simple. I hope the return oil line is a success. Also, very nice ideas for the skid plate mounting tabs. The skid looks like it will be close to the case without much air gap. Would a bit of gap, maybe .375" between the skid and case give better protection from rock intrusion with the heavier bike? A bit of stand off might allow deformation of the plate to absorb more of the blow, before it hits the cases.

Then again, maybe we ride in different rocks. I have basalt teeth randomly sticking out of the ground in many inconvenient places around here. The sound of my pipes getting raked through a yump still haunts me.

I'm also haunted by the sounds of grounding out pipes. This skid plate wont be heavy armor but it will be a vast improvement. It's surprising that KTM made the pipes and oil lines as vulnerable as they were.

The skid plate brackets are made from just 1/8" steel so that may provide some flex for bigger impacts. In some places there is a gap of about 3/8, but in others it gets tighter.
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Old 02-27-2011, 08:10 AM   #130
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The skid plate is now mostly kitted out and I'll put it aside and return to the turbo build. Honestly, I wanted this skid plate as much as the turbo. The 950SM can be a great adventure bike and I'm going to off road a lot more now.

Drilling the hole for the oil drain.



The steel oil lines were re-welded to tuck in tighter and all this plumbing is now protected much better.



The oil tank has this recess to accommodate the original exhaust pipe, which went under the engine. The plan is to fill this space with a tank for the turbo's water injection system. I'm really excited about having water injection on this project. The skid plate bulges out so it will protect the water injection tank.



This "kit" will get finished after I locate a longer bolt for the rear engine mount and get a new circuit breaker for the welder.

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Old 02-27-2011, 03:04 PM   #131
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You're ridiculous, brilliant, and supremely skilled. I love it. Multistrada 1200 Turbo next?

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Old 02-27-2011, 03:05 PM   #132
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Constructing the turbo's oil drain line flange. First the outline of the flange was cut out. This red stuff in a lot of the pictures is Dykem machinist dye. Its painted on and then scribed to draw very narrow lines for things like hole layouts.



A section of fitting was welded on.



All three holes were drilled out, deburred, and painted to complete.



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Old 02-28-2011, 07:54 PM   #133
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Many thanks Brinskee.

A lot of time has been wasted shopping for a boost gauge. Its hilarious how ebay lists 48 pages of boost gauges and they all go up to 25 or 35 psi. That's enough to melt professionally built race motors. Since I plan to run 6 psi the needle would hardly move. And squinting at the gauge on boost would be a really bad idea. Digital boost gauges were considered but they are $200+ and not waterproof.

I finally found a solution. Here is an old stock Stewart Warner boost gauge. Full range is 10 inches of mercury, which is 4.9 psi. Cost was $10, but I will have to make a housing/bracket for it. The kicker is I know this gauge. I used one on my very first turbo project done in high school shop class in 1979.





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Old 03-01-2011, 03:30 AM   #134
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Nice. Now when you say full range is 4.9 psi, does that mean that it's going to peg out when you hit full boost, and you wont know if you're at 4.9 or 10?
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Old 03-01-2011, 07:36 AM   #135
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Nice. Now when you say full range is 4.9 psi, does that mean that it's going to peg out when you hit full boost, and you wont know if you're at 4.9 or 10?
I'll test this and verify but what I remember is the C in TURBOPAC is about 7 psi.
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