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Old 01-22-2011, 05:16 PM   #1
Mr Head OP
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Cleaning the Turnsignal Cancel Switch

My tired old 2004 1150 GS Adventure needs a cleaning. It has a bit over 162,000 miles so things are sometimes a little creaky. Kind of like me.

For the past week in the cold, (OK cold is relative here for me cold means less than about 50 F), my turn signal cancel switch has stopped working reliably. I figured dirt since it would work once in a while and was getting more and more finicky.

Today it was nice and I had a full plate of chores so cleaning this switch became one of them.

I had not been into these in a long time. Last time was about 100,000 miles ago in 2006 when I upgraded the throttle cables and assembly.

There a few screws to remove,

First though, life is easier of I loosen the hand guard bolts so it can rotate forward a bit.

The inboard clamp


And the bar end,


Backside facing the rider,
NOTE: this one has a rounded head


Front side behind the mirror stalk,


Under neither there are two,
One at the inboard end, near the brakeline junction


And one back by the grip side,
NOTE: this screw is the long silver one


The switch rolls back and down you should not have to force it.
Inside,


I chose to remove this zip-tie and the block that retains the wires. I probably didn't need to do this,


The two plastic switch paddles orange and grey can be removed pretty simply I used a small screwdriver to pry the orange a bit at the points where it rotates, and the grey snaps out from one end, (sorry I forgot to take pictures of that.)

There is a tiny screw inside the but removing it doesn't gain much that I could find.
I ended up spraying contact cleaner and lubricant in to get all the gunk out, then blowing it dry with compressed air.
Got things looking pretty good, and the switch working too.



Assembly is reverse of the above or sort of...

All done,
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Old 01-23-2011, 04:20 PM   #2
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Filed this one away for future use, thanks,

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Old 01-23-2011, 11:15 PM   #3
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Funny, I did the same chore this weekend for my 2004 1150GSA, both left and right sides. In my case, it was the horn switch that was sticking.

When I got to the part of prying off the button paddles, I got one side of each paddle loose but not the other. Not wanting to break the plastic paddles, I just aimed my nozzles in under there and let loose. WD-40 followed by compressed air. Fixed the problem.

Thinking now that I didn't have to disassemble anything. Probably could just aim the WD-40 straw in there under the switches and give it a good bath.
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Old 01-24-2011, 12:07 AM   #4
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Thanks - very useful thread!
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Old 01-24-2011, 01:40 PM   #5
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When you have done that enough times, it fails to work. Then you need to replace those pesky switches.
I have a 1150 but got this from as 12GS. The switches are the same even though they are
used in a different setup on the 12GS (becuase of the more modern electronic design),

In any case, the switches themselves are interchangeable.

[TaSK]
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Old 01-24-2011, 02:07 PM   #6
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So, the internal buttons are the same, and fit into the two different housings.
Lovely.
Now, I need to figure out how to tear them apart without destroying the housing and switch holders.

Another time, mine is working sort of reliably now. And at $250-ish for the RHS I'm willing to dig pretty deep.



Quote:
Originally Posted by tagesk View Post

When you have done that enough times, it fails to work. Then you need to replace those pesky switches.
I have a 1150 but got this from as 12GS. The switches are the same even though they are
used in a different setup on the 12GS (becuase of the more modern electronic design),

In any case, the switches themselves are interchangeable.

[TaSK]
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Old 01-24-2011, 03:26 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Head View Post
So, the internal buttons are the same, and fit into the two different housings.
Yes.
But the soldering is different as the 12GS has CAN-BUS.
But you just cut it off, wrap tape on the un-insulated wire, and solder it on.
I got mine from a friend who happens to work from BMW and picked it off a wrecked bike.

It might be worth knowing for 12GS owners as well.

[TaSK]
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Old 01-24-2011, 03:49 PM   #8
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Excellent! Thanks TaSK.

Back when I had a real job, (BMW mechanic) we had boxes and boxes of switches. I have re-built many switches from boxes from 60's to 70's.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tagesk View Post
Yes.
But the soldering is different as the 12GS has CAN-BUS.
But you just cut it off, wrap tape on the un-insulated wire, and solder it on.
I got mine from a friend who happens to work from BMW and picked it off a wrecked bike.

It might be worth knowing for 12GS owners as well.

[TaSK]
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Old 01-24-2011, 04:09 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Head View Post
Now, I need to figure out how to tear them apart without destroying the housing and switch holders.
TaSK, how do you get the housing apart? I found two small screws holding the housings together. I have a pretty good set of screwdriver heads but did not have any small enough to fit those screws. My smallest Torx is a T-8 and my smallest hex head is 1.5mm, and both were too big.
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Old 01-24-2011, 04:17 PM   #10
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My right hand side only has one screw. Removing that I still was unable to get the housing apart.


Quote:
Originally Posted by DRONE View Post
TaSK, how do you get the housing apart? I found two small screws holding the housings together. I have a pretty good set of screwdriver heads but did not have any small enough to fit those screws. My smallest Torx is a T-8 and my smallest hex head is 1.5mm, and both were too big.
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Old 01-24-2011, 05:26 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tagesk View Post


When you have done that enough times, it fails to work. Then you need to replace those pesky switches.
I have a 1150 but got this from as 12GS. The switches are the same even though they are
used in a different setup on the 12GS (becuase of the more modern electronic design),

In any case, the switches themselves are interchangeable.

[TaSK]
If only we can find replacement for these swtiches...

These switches can actually be pull aparts and you will be able to see how it works and where the problems will come from.

I dismantled mine and was suprised to find that the contacts are not able to close, therefore causing a faulty signal lights all the way.
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Old 01-25-2011, 12:49 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Head View Post
Back when I had a real job, (BMW mechanic) we had boxes and boxes of switches.
The problem that the switch itself, id not for sale. You need to buy a full handle bar setup.
An alternative source of the switches themselves would have been nice.

[TaSK]
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Old 01-25-2011, 03:46 AM   #13
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This should be a Wisom thread. It's useful especially with all the R11xx bikes getting old.
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Old 01-25-2011, 04:49 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Head View Post
My right hand side only has one screw. Removing that I still was unable to get the housing apart.


Right side, after a new switch has been soldered in.



Left side, before a new switch has been soldered in.

On the 12GS I don't know (as I can't afford one), but on the 1150 you need to use some
force to get it apart. First you remove it, and then force it open from below (where you have the indicator).
First time it was uncomfortable, but it didn't break, and there doesn't seem to any other way to do it.

If you're off searching for a replacement, remember that all these switches are without state. That is,
pressing them just creates a short for the duration it is pressed. When you release the short is removed.
The "brain" knows what to do in each case. And that is why, on the 12GS, they all have common ground.

[TaSK]
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Old 01-27-2011, 06:13 AM   #15
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Well, that didin't last long.

Switch died last night on my way home from work.

I spent a good two hours messing with it but never got it to function.

Looks like a replacement is in the cards now. One odd thing I noticed when I pulled into the parking lot this morning.

My clock had reset. Don't know if that happened last night while I had things apart, or when I started the bike.
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