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Old 07-17-2014, 07:54 AM   #1
Deans BMW OP
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How hard is it to R&R HD head pipes?

I want to R & R the head pipes on my '14 Road King to remove the Cat.

Having never worked on a HD before, I suspect that new exhaust gaskets will be needed, probably remove the right side floor board. Any tricks or anything waiting to bite me in the Butt.

Any advise by the collective here would be greatly appreciated.

My plan is to remove the Cat, and leave the stock mufflers and then using the Dynojet proper map reflash the bikes ECM.

Received this note from Dynojet the other day in response to some questions.

Quote:
Dean,

Thank you for the interest in Dynojet products. The Power Vision is a tuning tool; you can use it to accomplish most anything you like. If you use one of our tunes, you will most likely find a much better running bike, with more horsepower. Our tune would add some fuel in areas to accomplish this, so should reduce engine temp a little, but may yield worse fuel economy.

If the Cat is removed, that will reduce heat, and increase airflow a little. The increased air flow should improve horsepower and torque a little. It may improve fuel economy slightly.

Roy Hartman

Power Vision Technical Support Specialist
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Old 07-17-2014, 08:38 AM   #2
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More than likely you will be able to re-use your gaskets. Inspect before you purchase. Local HD shop should have them in stock. If you have a welder you trust to cut, remove and weld your head pipe up so your pipes align back up...go for it. It will reduce your heat (marginally) and a new map on the ECU should help your bike run better. I went with a Full-Sac ceramic coated head pipe, a high flow A/C and a screaming eagle race tuner (I personally dislike a piggy back system on an ECU). Bike runs better and cooler with a tad bit better fuel mileage. I do have after market pipes Crushers by Kuryakyn just a tad bit louder than stock. Free from a friend who wanted louder. Now he wishes it was quiter....LOL.
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Old 07-21-2014, 11:38 AM   #3
alma1759
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American Customs has a couple of options, one a revised cross over, the other a true dual. Both are less than $400, the cross over setup is under $300.
Might be a less frustrating way to go unless you have access to a machine shot, and a really steady hand. I have neither.
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Old 07-21-2014, 12:24 PM   #4
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While you may be able to reuse the old gaskets, why? They are inexpensive, and part of what makes them work is the "custom crushing" they get when the head pipes are torqued down. You make need a hook to fish/pull the old gasket out of the heads.

A universal joint adaptor, or a wobble socket eases things on some of the head pipe nuts where you can't get straight on them.

Overall, it's not a hard job.
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Old 07-21-2014, 05:23 PM   #5
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It is not hard at all. I just did a 2013 Road Glide Ultra for a Buddy this weekend. He already had a gutted OEM pipe to put on.
5 minutes to remove the right front footboard
20 minutes to remove the heat shiels
10 minutes to remove the saddlebags and unbolt the rear muffler supports.
10-15 minutes to loosen the torca clamps and pull each muffler
10 minutes max to unscrew the 02 sensors
5 minutes to remove the hanger cross over pipe.
10 minutes to remove the rear exhaust head flang.
25 freakin' minutes for the front one because the one bolt is a bitch to reach, you have to use a thin box end wrench, and you can only move the nut two flats at a time. (A wobble socket extension would work even better).
Don't re-use the gaskets, they are designed to crush.

Too put the new one back on, add 50% more time because of threading the heat shield clamps can be frustratingly hard unless you get just the right bend in the clamp strap.

For consumables, get a new pair of exhaust gaskets and make sure you remove all traces of the likely crumbled up old gasket first. A spring pic or bent wire works well for getting it out. A great trick to get the new gaskets to fit into the head port is to first put one of the band pipe clamps from the heat shield around the exhaust gasket and compress its' diameter a tad. It will then easily fit into the port instead of fighting back. Make sure to use anti seize compound around the head pipe where the mufflers clamp on so you can get them off easy next time. Torque on the head port stud nuts is 99 INCH lbs. After your run it for 100 miles, retorque them as they will likely be only finger tight.

When you pull the loose head pipe off the heads, pull the rear end of the pipe away from the rear cylinder first, and when it is clear of the cylinder, push the hole thing forward to clear the front port. And don't forget there is a bolt right in front of the left muffler attachement where the head pipe is bolted to a bracket on the transmission. Total removal and replacement for a first timer should be about 3-4 hours. You can do it in 2 next time.

If the mufflers won't come off, apply liquid wrench or similar to the slots where they fit over the head pipe, and tap the rear mount of the muffler with a block of wood and hammer. What also works is using a strap wrench and trying to twist the muffler first to loosen it. With the anti seize they will come right off next time, but that compound will smoke some on start up. BTW, I now have a gutted 2010-2013 head pipe if anyone is interested PM me.

Lastly, look at the 2-1-2 pipe FuelMoto sells and peruse the dyno charts on their site for that pipe versus stock. It is a very nicely made piece and the ceramic coating helps greatly with the heat issues on the right foot and thigh.

Smopho screwed with this post 07-21-2014 at 05:29 PM Reason: More info
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Old 07-21-2014, 06:30 PM   #6
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I did a Stage 1 myself on my RGU.

For me, hardest part was installing the new crush washer....not because it was mechanically difficult, but getting the crush-washer aligned and perfectly square to the exhaust port so no damage is occurred during the install. I'm sure there are some handy tools to do this, but I just free-handed it. Got it done and all seems good. I applied very light coat of assembly grease around the OD of the gasket to help it slide into the exhaust port a little better.

Oh, and if you don't have one, get a universal-joint adapter (better yet, flex-head socket) so you can get that socket head around a tight bend when removing/installing exhaust bolts.

Other than that...it's pretty easy-peesy like others have said.
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Old 07-21-2014, 07:00 PM   #7
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Will cost a little more but a much better option is an aftermarket set of head pipes. I went with Fuel-Moto and am very happy with them. Plus they can provide you with a custom map based on your mods using Dynojet products rather than a preprogrammed download.

http://www.fuelmotousa.com

On the HD tech sites there was some debate as to whether removing the cat allowed the 2 a/f sensors to read incorrectly as there may be "cross talk". The aftermarket headpipes eliminate that possibility.

As far as R&R, no big deal.
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Old 07-21-2014, 07:13 PM   #8
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This along with a TTS utilizing Fullsac's map is what you seek.
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Old 07-22-2014, 06:27 AM   #9
Deans BMW OP
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Did the swap out Friday last, new gaskets, took about 3 hours of taking it easy.

No reprograming yet. The bike runs great, noticed a reduction in heat on my right leg. A definite improvement in exhaust sound with out being loud using my stock cans.

The only cost was the $200.00 for the replacement head pipes. Tilly's HD cut the head pipe on a diagonal right at the cat location and cleaned it out. The diagonal cut was so that the head pipe could be re welded with perfect alignment. Looked like a good re weld and then re coated with heat resistance silver paint. The fit was perfect and very happy with the results even with out a reflash of the ECM.
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Old 07-22-2014, 07:20 AM   #10
Cakeeater
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Thanks Dean.

Very informative. I like the stock pipes and will keep them. If I could go quieter, I would.

I personally want the quietest Harley on the road.

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Old 07-22-2014, 10:50 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cakeeater View Post
Thanks Dean.

Very informative. I like the stock pipes and will keep them. If I could go quieter, I would.

I personally want the quietest Harley on the road.

Cakeeater

I'm the same way. I sorta think the stock pipes on my Ultra are a bit too loud.

Thus when anybody advises "oh, these new one aren't TOO loud," I want to ask, "using your ears or mine?"
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Old 07-22-2014, 08:37 PM   #12
Cakeeater
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lobby View Post
I'm the same way. I sorta think the stock pipes on my Ultra are a bit too loud.

Thus when anybody advises "oh, these new one aren't TOO loud," I want to ask, "using your ears or mine?"
Well, HD are you listening? There's two of us.

I'd like to make my 103 put out more HP, but do it without making any more noise. A different cam, better fueling, better intake, maybe headwork??? When I tell "normal" Harley guys this they look at me like I'm batshit.

I like riding fast on a relatively quiet bike. Hey, I often kill the engine coming toward my house and coast into the driveway. I'll do the same thing for tollbooths, customs checkpoints, gas stations...etc

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Old 07-23-2014, 01:20 PM   #13
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Three of us. Quiet with a good bass note would be best.
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Old 07-23-2014, 02:13 PM   #14
hyena
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Four here. My buddy has the street legal screaming eagle exhaust on his 2008 96 Street Glide, and I always admired how it sounded deep and mellow without being loud. But I'm satisfied with the stock exhaust on my new Road King.
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