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Old 01-12-2012, 09:13 PM   #211
mudmantra
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Yes 2x On that TT500BW, Awesome machine. Thanks for posting the pictures. Now, I've got some TT500 parts and some Big wheel parts, now all I got to do is find some time and talent. And a few dollars too.
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Old 01-13-2012, 07:04 AM   #212
dvgonzo
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Mr BW,

THAT is funny, retire to some pacific island from the sale of BW parts....off of all 8-10 of us BW owners?! HA! Now the part of us all being desperate might be right though!

Besides, I already tried a business making and selling Sink-No-Bobs. They were real heavy duty rubber pads made to fit on kickstands to keep them afloat in mud and sand. Worked like a champ and even went so far as to get a patent on them (long story). Only problem was there are very few "real" riders out there who appreciated them enough to pony up the 20 bucks so after we recouped the patent and start up costs for the business (about 11 years!) I got tired of baby sitting the website, and answering questions of posers and tire kickers so just recently closed it down. The one advantage to closing the business down is I do have a lifetime supply of them left over for all my future scooter needs!

For the eccentric bushings I would need to accurately measure the bushings, especially the eccenrtic and I expect the left and right side to be mirror images so they would work and rotate properly (although knowing the Japanese and their attention to detail and manufacturing capabilities they could possibly be identical.). As I said I have never had mine apart and I would imagine there is some sort of way incorporated to clock the bushings at assembly to line them up with each other inside the swingarm.

Eccentric parts used to be real time consuming pieces to build (due to all the set-up they took) but since the introduction of CNC milling machines they have become a piece of pastry! I have a little Bridgport CNC Accurite conversion sitting out in my garage that is sweet to make parts on cause it is so easy to program. Since I got it I hardly ever use any of the other manual machine tool accessories as it is so easy to just "do it" on the CNC.

Shercoman,

So you ride Trials bikes too? Just wondering cause of your name. I had two Bultaco 350 Sherpa T's that I routinely horse whipped for almost thirty years! Was bummed when they went out of business. But now they are back! Well pretty much, but in the Sherco name.

The TTBW looked SWEET!

I also had an '86 TT600 that I rode so much I pretty much plumb wore it out. THAT was a GREAT scooter. Probably could not even start it anymore! That was about the only thing wrong with that bike, well that and it's weight,................oh yeah.........and drum brakes!
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Old 01-13-2012, 08:27 AM   #213
Shercoman
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Dvgonzo
The eccentric bushings on the 350 are connected by a sheet metal stamping that keeps them aligned (flats on the end of the bushings) so when you move the metal stamping it rotates both eccentric bushings together.

Yes I do ride Trials (Sherco320 four stroke) and actually rode with the New Mexico club when I lived in Las Cruces 2002-2006.
The NM club is an awesome group.
I ride with the RMTA club now.
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Old 01-13-2012, 12:37 PM   #214
Mr. BigWheel OP
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Shercoman,

I've read and reread your description of the spacer until it penetrated my engineering-challenged mind. I think that your concept must look something like this:



Like everything that I've ever done to "improve" the BW, it seems like it would add even more weight to the portly steed.

I don't have a particular wheel yet in mind. I've scoured the internet looking for something suitable but it seems somewhat elusive. So many of the rear wheels have an offset 2 inches or more from center.

Regards,

Mr. BigWheel
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Old 01-13-2012, 02:36 PM   #215
Shercoman
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Mr. BW
That is exactly what I had in mind.
I agree on the weight issue but made in aluminum they will not be veery heavy.Especially if the benefit is a selection of wheels that are readily available.
Right now I have exactly one wheel to fit the bike.
i'd like to be able to switch to an aluminum wheel that is available.The weight difference between my current steel wheel and an aluminum wheel plus a spacer might be about the same.So no net gain.
Plus....shiny wheels are better.
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Old 01-14-2012, 01:16 PM   #216
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Mr. Bigwheel, I had the front studded tire mounted up and asked the shop to try and fix the flat while they were mounting it up. They mounted the tire, but it still leaks quite a bit. I sprayed some soapy water on and found 5-6 leaks around where the studs were drilled. I am thinking about having a tube installed. What do you think? I am hoping that the tire will hold air for a day or two (not have to air up on the trail) and I think that an inner tube may be the best way to accomplish this goal. Just thought that I would give you an update.

Cliff.
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Old 01-14-2012, 09:57 PM   #217
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Cliff,

The easiest thing might be to just throw some Green Slime in the tire. Putting a tube in the tire will certainly cure the problem, but I'm not it's worth the effort of dismounting and remounting. I drilled the holes too deep (obviously) and then inserting the studs ripped the carcass enough to allow the leak.

On the other hand, it's been several seasons that I just made sure to pack an air pump and keep the air at a useable pressure once or twice during a long ride. Sometimes the lazy method works just fine, if your standards are low enough.

Shercoman,

That is a great point about the weight being roughly equal between the original steel wheel and an available aluminum wheel with a spacer. I also have been thinking that your idea of a 12" rim might be superior due to the wider selection of rubber in that size. I'm still looking for an obvious donor though.

In addition, if you are considering adding a front disc brake to the BW, I think that the easiest way is using Honda ATC200x forks, axle, hub, rotor, caliper, etc. They are 33mm and I believe that the dimensions are about the same as the BW's, so they should bolt right in. I don't think that they would significantly improve the suspension over the BW. They would just add that cool factor afforded by a disc brake.

Regards,

Mr. BigWheel
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Old 01-15-2012, 09:11 AM   #218
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Mr. Bigwheel,

I understand the lazy method. My method of laziness includes not having to stop mid-ride to air up a dirty, muddy bike lol. I have never used Green Slime before, but I imagine it includes injecting the slime into the tire, and riding for a specified period of time to distribute the slime. My concern is that with the cold temps, adequate distribution throughout the tire may not be achieved. I will investigate the tube option. I have a friend who has a contact at the Arctic cat shop where they mounted the tire on the rim for free. They were also instructed to repair the leaks.... but for the price I can't complain too much. If you find yourself with the day off and a hankering for a ride, give me a call. Hopefully the temps will warm up, It's been from -10 to -15 here in town, and probably colder out there?

Cliff
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Old 01-15-2012, 11:47 AM   #219
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Please forgive the poor quality cell phone video. And forgive the lack of helmet use (it's been said that there isn't much to be preserved for me up there anyway). My first ride in the snow on my bigwheel.

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Old 01-15-2012, 06:15 PM   #220
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Cliff,

That looks like a splendid way to get some brainfreeze. Now that you're ready, all we have to do is find some time to ride.



I was going to go out for a ride today but I had too many chores to take care of. Or maybe it was church. No, it was the kids. Yeah, that's it.

I swear that it had nothing to do with the temperature.

Regards

Mr. BigWheel
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Old 01-15-2012, 08:27 PM   #221
Shercoman
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OMG that's cold!!

We had two days here last year that were -28 and -30 degrees.That was a new level of cold for me and nothing was moving.
I applaud you guys for living with that on a regular basis!!!

I bought a Tri-Z front hub and disc on E-bay but was outbid for the forks.I'm just going to hold on to them and look for some longer travel forks with disc mount.
Or maybe not.
One advantage of the BW now is the low and small feeling it has.
If I start giving it longer "legs" it defeats some of the purpose and fun of the small bike. This might also have a little to do with my "limited" inseam.
So we'll see.I may never use this disc hub but I got it cheap!!

Mr. BW
Where did you find that wheel adaptor?
If you are looking at alternate wheels,pick one from a popular ATV that you know will be available.
I was planning to use a Honda TRX400EX wheel for my conversion as these wheels are plentiful and cheap. But they are 9 inch and you wanted to go bigger.
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Old 01-16-2012, 04:57 PM   #222
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Shercoman,

Don't feel too badly for us. The folks in Interior Alaska (Fairbanks, McGrath, etc..) are running about 20 degrees colder than us right now. It hurts to breathe at those temps.

As far as the alternative wheel goes, I think that the prime driver for the search is to get away from the 9 inch rim. While the stock rim is not really plentiful, they are out there. I'm pretty sure that the 1985 through 1987 YFM 225 Moto-4 shares the same rear rim in a different color, with slightly different parts numbers.

The wheel adaptor in the picture is just a spacer to increase the wheelbase on an atv. It just rotates the mounting points 90 degrees but doesn't adapt one lug pattern to another. There are tons of them available commercially for the modern 4 wheelers.

http://tiresunlimited.com/ALL%20TIRE...bel_wheels.htm

This is one wheel that I've been considering. It is the 10 x 9, so it is the same width as the stocker. Most importantly though, is that is shiny. Very shiny.

It is the lightest weight Douglas rim for light to medium duty (and cheapest, coincidentally). The fly in the ointment is the offset that would require a 3 inch spacer. That would be a grand chunk of metal.

Regards,

Mr. BigWheel
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Old 01-16-2012, 07:15 PM   #223
Shercoman
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Mr. BW
That would require a 1.5 inch spacer.
It is "3+6" for a 9 inch width.
Centered would be a "4.5+4.5".
So the difference is 4.5-3.0 or 1.5.

One thing you have to verify is that the center hole is big enough to fit over the end of the hub.
If I recall correctly (it's been a while since I looked at this) you have to take the sprocket off to remove the wheel from the hub.So the hole in the wheel has to fit over this flange.

You also have to verify which side of the offset rim the valve stem hole is on.You want the stem to end up on the sprocket side as there is no room on the brake side for the valve stem.
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Old 01-16-2012, 09:38 PM   #224
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Shercoman,

Now you can see why I wasn't a math major. Or a gradeschool teacher. And why I got fired from N.A.S.A. after that stupid Mars mission.

The flange that the sprocket attaches to is only about 95mm. (It's approximate because the battery in my fancy digital calipers froze) I'll check with Douglas and see what dimension they have for the opening.

Regards,

Mr. BigWheel
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Old 01-17-2012, 05:24 AM   #225
Shercoman
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Mr. BW
I need to look at my BW and think about this some more.I haven't convinced myself that this is right.
The deep side of the wheel will have to go towards the brake side.
Hang tight and I'll look at it tonight.
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