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Old 08-25-2012, 09:02 PM   #541
truckinwagen
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Joined: Aug 2012
Oddometer: 31
well, the new CDI came in, and I got it installed.

pretty straight forward, the CDI replaces both the CDI box, and the coil and installs in the same place as the coil.

I made a little harness that connects the stock wiring harness with the new CDI, and the only cutting of either harness was to cut the white plug off the old CDI.

I dont have any pics right now(camera is missing) but I will post some later on.

this is the CDI I am using;
https://www.treatland.tv/puch-cdi-hi...ch-cdi-box.htm

it is an AC CDI, so it will only work with kick-only bikes.

anyway on the bike, and it runs!

it is harder to start than it used to be(timing is not perfect for starting when cold) and it likes the choke more when its cold, but it seems to run good, and my dead zone above half throttle seems better.

I have not had a real chance to run it to see if my problems are really gone (I live in a nice neighborhood that frowns upon riding loud, smoke-spewing elephant footed bikes through the street) but on the couple laps of the yard it seemed good.

I am heading to the state fair tomorrow afternoon with my wife and a few friends, but I will be heading up in the morning to stop at Jim Creek to give it another shakedown run.


I will have more to report tomorrow night!

-Owen
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Old 08-25-2012, 09:07 PM   #542
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Very interested in reading your review... Mine has some goofy symptoms that sound a lot like what you are going through but at low rpm- popping, sputtering, hard starting, all of which disappear if I wiggle some wires. Could just be loose wires, just havent had time to dig into it.
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Old 08-25-2012, 09:30 PM   #543
truckinwagen
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I think the new CDI is more advanced than the old one (which would account for the hard start) the bike seems to ping a bit at low RPM on the throttle more than it used to.

I may have to see if there is a way to retard the timing(move the CDI trigger under the strator cover?)

but again I will let you all know more later about how it runs.

I may try richening up the idle circuit a bit to see if that helps the hard start any.

-Owen
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Old 08-25-2012, 09:36 PM   #544
Shercoman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cliff h View Post
Pics from a trip to the local MX track from today. I was the only racer representing the Bigwheel team today. I took my girls for a few laps around the track as well.



[
Good thing your toes weren't pointing down!!!
Awesome actions pics!!!
Thanks for sharing!!
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Old 08-25-2012, 10:32 PM   #545
truckinwagen
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well, I retarded the timing a bit.

had to modify the CDI trigger (because there is no adjustability built into it) by enlarging the mounting holes to allow it to slide a few degrees.
retarded the timing by not allot (a few degrees max, approx. 1/8" of lateral movement of the trigger)

starts much easier now we will see how it does on the trails.

looks like one could further retard timing by grinding off the leading edge of the raised portion of the flywheel that the trigger senses moving past. this however would not be reversible, and may play merry hell with the balance of the flywheel.

-Owen
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Old 08-25-2012, 10:54 PM   #546
Mr. BigWheel OP
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Location: South central Alaska
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Cliff,

I would have to say that it is a good thing that you weren't using those aluminum footpegs anymore. I know a good chiropractor out in the Valley if you need one.

To address Deaver's question:

1. The forks are the same as the early TW200 (with drum brakes)

2. The Front wheel is the same as a Tri-Z and most of the other three-wheelers of the era

3. Rear shock is similar or identical to the TW200 (for the 350)

4. Footpegs are nearly the same as a YZ80 and should be replaced with something bigger immediately

5. The engine's bottom end is from the SR250. There are tons of those around the world.

6. The top end is interchangeable with the Warrior 350 (Warrior has larger valves)

7. The front fender from the Tri Z can be used, although they cost just as much

8. One of the yahoo forum members recently used a carb manifold from a Yamaha Bruin on a 350

9. A Banshee shift lever has a folding tip and makes a wonderful addition to any 350

10. Cables, brake and hand levers and other miscellany were straight out of the Yamaha parts bin


Items that seem to fail and are hard to get or expensive:

1. Fuel tank

2. CDI

3. Swing arm bushings

4. Any part that you break that was only made for the BW series (long list. very long list)

It would be nice to be able to catalog some of this information but my knowledge of building web pages is second only to my understanding of electrical systems. And women.

Regards,

Mr. BigWheel
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Old 08-25-2012, 11:03 PM   #547
Cliff h
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Mr. Bigwheel,

Please have Ursella make an appointment with Roe (sp?) for me please. I am in dire need of his services (deep tissue massage).

Cliff.
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Old 08-25-2012, 11:10 PM   #548
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dorkpunch:

My rear sprocket also doubles as a propulsion devise so contact with Terra firma will only add to forward momentum. And yes, I was lucky to have the extra 4" of travel that the 23" tire offered.
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Old 08-25-2012, 11:16 PM   #549
Cliff h
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Truckinwagon:

Your information about the replacement CDI is just the kind of thing the BW world needs. There are a few parts that command platinum prices because they are labeled "Bigwheel" and hence cost 10X what they should. Experimentation such as what you are doing will enable many of us BW owners to keep our bikes on the trail for many years to come! Thanks for sharing!

Cliff.
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Old 08-26-2012, 12:04 PM   #550
truckinwagen
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Well, the bike ran.
The timing was still a little too advanced, but it only knocked at low engine speeds, once the rpm's were up it was good.
Still had problems though, if I ran wide open throttle it would begin to lose power after a few seconds, as if you were slowly backing off the throttle.

I am thinking that was rings in really bad shape failing to seal as they got hot.(the crankcase breather always spews some smoke)

Then the bike quit.

Almost back to the truck the breather belched enough smoke to fully engulf me, and the Motor quit.
Kicking it over only gets me another huge puff of smoke from the breather.

I am thinking that the rings finally failed completely, but I will let the bike cool off and see if it will start again.

-Owen
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Old 08-26-2012, 01:05 PM   #551
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Does it feel like there is any compression left when you use the kickstart?

That has been one of the issues with finding a replacement CDI: getting one that has a similar ignition curve as the BW. It would be great to have a programmable ignition, but who knows what the curve is on the stock CDI?

At least you made it back to the truck and weren't out by the glacier when that happened. Maybe you can get by with just new rings and will be back in operation soon if the piston and cylinder survived the ordeal.

Keep swinging, you'll have it going again soon.

Regards,

Mr. BigWheel
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Old 08-26-2012, 04:34 PM   #552
DEAVER
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Location: Spaniard's bay,Newfoundland. Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. BigWheel View Post
Cliff,

I would have to say that it is a good thing that you weren't using those aluminum footpegs anymore. I know a good chiropractor out in the Valley if you need one.

To address Deaver's question:

1. The forks are the same as the early TW200 (with drum brakes)

2. The Front wheel is the same as a Tri-Z and most of the other three-wheelers of the era

3. Rear shock is similar or identical to the TW200 (for the 350)

4. Footpegs are nearly the same as a YZ80 and should be replaced with something bigger immediately

5. The engine's bottom end is from the SR250. There are tons of those around the world.

6. The top end is interchangeable with the Warrior 350 (Warrior has larger valves)

7. The front fender from the Tri Z can be used, although they cost just as much

8. One of the yahoo forum members recently used a carb manifold from a Yamaha Bruin on a 350

9. A Banshee shift lever has a folding tip and makes a wonderful addition to any 350

10. Cables, brake and hand levers and other miscellany were straight out of the Yamaha parts bin


Items that seem to fail and are hard to get or expensive:

1. Fuel tank

2. CDI

3. Swing arm bushings

4. Any part that you break that was only made for the BW series (long list. very long list)

It would be nice to be able to catalog some of this information but my knowledge of building web pages is second only to my understanding of electrical systems. And women.

Regards,

Mr. BigWheel
Thank-you Sir!
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Old 08-26-2012, 04:42 PM   #553
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Footpegs?

Can somebody point me in the right direction to some awesome footpegs that will not fail. I really can't afford a broken foot or ankle. I read how cliff had some troubles with some cheaper ebay brand.
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Old 08-26-2012, 04:44 PM   #554
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love your pics by the way cliff.
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Old 08-26-2012, 10:05 PM   #555
Cliff h
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Deaver:

Footpegs from a TW 200 will fit on the 350. It is on the short list of things for me to do, but IMS makes some pegs for the TW 200 (I believe they are made of stainless steel), but are fairly costly to the tune of something like $80 which is why I haven't done it quite yet. But what price tag can you put on safety (as for me, it is more than $20).
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