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Old 04-09-2011, 03:57 PM   #211
Sparrowhawkdesign
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reducing trail

Another way you can reduce trail easily on a bike with no fairing or anything else in the way is to simply get two aluminum plates with four holes the size of the fork tube in each. You also need two short sections of the same size tubing about an inch longer than the distance from the top of the upper clamp to the bottom of the lower clamp. Remove the forks and replace them with the new tubes and the two new plates just below the originals. Then install the forks into the front holes of the new plates. The forks are now forward at their original angle and having the new plates below the original trees gives a little additional ground clearance. I will try to post a picture to this when I get back next week.
Barry
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Old 04-09-2011, 05:27 PM   #212
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1..Lower car.
2..reduce trail.
3..Set toe in.
4..Stiffen up bike suspension.


So I got 2 of the 4 things that I need to do done today.I lowered the car about 2 inches,now it's almost level.I also set the toe in,I set it at about 1 inch.I tried to go 3/4" but my adjustments are on the bottom mounts and they are course threads so it was either 1/4" or 1" so I choose 1".I did buy the leading legs today also but they won't be here till next week sometime.Also while I had the tub off I painted it.I sprayed on some DuPont Hot Rod Black.it was the first time I had used a cup gun in over 30 years so it took awhile to get the paint the right thickness and the spray pattern right.So I HAVE to get the chain and sprocket first and then the new springs.I have always run a 2 tooth larger rear sprocket on my DL,but this time I'm going up 2 in the rear and down 1 in the front.
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Old 04-09-2011, 07:15 PM   #213
TouringDave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NortwestRider View Post
I have always run a 2 tooth larger rear sprocket on my DL,but this time I'm going up 2 in the rear and down 1 in the front.
Alan, don't forget 1 tooth difference on the front sprocket is equivelant to 3 on the rear sprocket. Or something like that.

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Old 04-09-2011, 07:22 PM   #214
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Ya I think thats right,1 down = 3up.I have a 16T front out in the shed already so maybe just 1 up in the rear??.I have 2 up rear on it now and with the car on it It's still too high.Boy O Boy the rig sure looks alot better now with less lean out and sitting level !!.
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Old 04-09-2011, 08:43 PM   #215
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I'm running a 16 front 45 rear. Makes 6th gear very usable. In 6th at 60 mph, 4000 RPM. My car tire is very close to stock tire dia. so not a factor.

This is one tooth down in front, 4 teeth up in rear. Worlds better than stock, especially with a load.

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Old 04-10-2011, 01:25 PM   #216
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Hackpirate.
Is yours a 1000??.I have been doing some checking and think I will still go with 2 up rear and 1 down front.So I took the level,toed in rig for a ride today and it did make alot of difference.I did not get out on the freeway but around town on BUMPY roads,it went straighter and it took less steering input to keep it going straight.Also got my light wired up.Here are some pics of it now.

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Old 04-10-2011, 01:27 PM   #217
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And the new light.

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Old 04-10-2011, 01:28 PM   #218
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One more of the new paint on the tub.

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Old 04-10-2011, 03:52 PM   #219
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We all can't luck up and get it close to right the first time, but it sure is fun trying. I've got a few bugs to work out, but it still handles well, even with a cross wind, with one hand.

You'll get there.
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Old 04-10-2011, 04:08 PM   #220
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Leading legs are on there way,maybe before next weekend !!.I just bought chain and rear sprocket ( $130.00 !!) so next is a piece of lexan for the windshield ( $40.00) and then new SPRINGS for the bike ( $300.00).My wife is being VERY,VERY understanding about the "EXTRA'S" I need to get it down the road.I wanted to spend $5,000 + for a factory car,but I built this one for under $1,000 and about 60 hours ( so far ) of my time.
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Old 04-10-2011, 04:55 PM   #221
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bk brkr baker View Post
Adding a preload spacer won't make up fo a too soft spring . It will jack up the ride height without making the suspension stiffer.
You can stiffen the spring by shortening it and replace the length you cut off with a spacer. How much?
Who knows, and experiments can get expensive. Will the shock from a 100 V- Strom fit the wee and is it stiffer?
I want to reiterate spacers won't solve your weak spring issue. Cutting the stock spring and putting in a spacer also won't change the spring rate.

Seeing if a VStrom 1000 shock would fit, and if it has a higher spring rate, would likely be the cheapest way to go. Otherwise, pony up the bucks for a higher rate spring.
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Old 04-10-2011, 05:01 PM   #222
RedBean25
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Originally Posted by Motoblag View Post
I want to reiterate spacers won't solve your weak spring issue. Cutting the stock spring and putting in a spacer also won't change the spring rate.

Seeing if a VStrom 1000 shock would fit, and if it has a higher spring rate, would likely be the cheapest way to go. Otherwise, pony up the bucks for a higher rate spring.
Sine he is building this for his DL1000, I think the 1000 shock will fit, but will do him no good. He needs an upgraded spring or a new shock altogether.
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Old 04-10-2011, 05:36 PM   #223
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Hackpirate.
Is yours a 1000??.I have been doing some checking and think I will still go with 2 up rear and 1 down front
Mine is a 1000, K7, same as yours. I think you are on the right track. IIRC, my rig with just me and no gear is around 1050 lbs. Easily will get near 1300 lbs. travel ready. If you get that heavy thats when you may go to more cogs in the rear. Of course your speedo/odo will be crazy off. Check out 12oclock labs for the cure. That cured mine.

And food for thought, since you are ordering plexiglass for the tub: The biggest nuisance I encountered at highway speeds was the wind blast from the tall sidecar windshield. Had to find a solution and that was having Dave Kesee at Hanigan (now at Claude's) make me a shorty shield for it. Wow, big dif.

You're just getting started with the gotta-have-it-itis. BTW, I had Klaus w/ EML do a Hyperpro rear shock and installed it a couple weeks ago.
It was our Christmas present to my wife and I. ( I was real smoooooth on that one.)

Hackpirate
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Old 04-10-2011, 08:00 PM   #224
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Ya I think me and my wife will be at about that same weight when loaded.I know that last week I had to start 1/2 way up a very steep hill ( damn stop lights) and I really had to slip the clutch ( with a 2 up rear ),so up 2 and down 1 should help that.Ya I'm researching rear shock springs right now,ANYBODY have any suggestions on where to buy one??.I heard that wilbers is a good spring??.If I get my chain and sprockets this week I'm also gonna go get a used 205/55-17 and install it while I have the rear wheel off.One last thing,does anybody know of a good place to get front brake lines made??.

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Old 04-10-2011, 08:25 PM   #225
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Originally Posted by Motoblag View Post
I want to reiterate spacers won't solve your weak spring issue. Cutting the stock spring and putting in a spacer also won't change the spring rate.

Seeing if a VStrom 1000 shock would fit, and if it has a higher spring rate, would likely be the cheapest way to go. Otherwise, pony up the bucks for a higher rate spring.
" Cutting the stock spring and putting in a spacer also won't change the spring rate."

This is the part I have a problem with.

Cutting a spring in half Doubles the Spring Rate!!!!!!!!!
It also has the potential for half the displacement.

If the diameter wire is wound into larger coils, the rate is weaker for the same number of coils.

Check out your springs here.

http://www.pontiacracing.net/js_coil_spring_rate.htm

Don
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