weird stalling, hesitation

camgregus · 02-13-2011, 03:07 PM

My 1989 R100 GS is doing crazy stuff again. It runs and starts fine. After a couple of miles or so, it starts hesitating on acceleration in second and third gear. Stumbles like it is about to stall.

I just replaced the diode board. New ICU last year. All connections are clean and renewed. Floats show the same amount of gas. Petcocks flow well. I drained all the old gas out and put new in (it was only two or three months old....) I love my bike, but I'm just getting sick of it not treating me well enough to get it warm enough to tune....

The Raven · 02-13-2011, 03:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by camgregus

My 1989 R100 GS is doing crazy stuff again. It runs and starts fine. After a couple of miles or so, it starts hesitating on acceleration in second and third gear. Stumbles like it is about to stall.

I just replaced the diode board. New ICU last year. All connections are clean and renewed. Floats show the same amount of gas. Petcocks flow well. I drained all the old gas out and put new in (it was only two or three months old....) I love my bike, but I'm just getting sick of it not treating me well enough to get it warm enough to tune....

Check your tank vent

boxerboy81 · 02-13-2011, 04:14 PM

Check the main jets for blockage.

..

bmwrench · 02-13-2011, 04:32 PM

This sounds like classic bean-can failure to me.

datchew · 02-13-2011, 05:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bmwrench

this sounds like classic bean-can failure to me.

+1

boxerboy81 · 02-13-2011, 05:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by datchew

+1

+2 ...could well be, but I'd check simple things first.

CurlyMike · 02-13-2011, 05:43 PM

+3, thats the first thing I thought of when I read the title...

I replaced mine with the electronic version from Rick at Motorrad Elektrik, have had no issues with the new upgrade. Yet to be seen if it will last 30 years like the last one.

hardwaregrrl · 02-13-2011, 06:10 PM

+3. Sounds like what happened to me when mine died.

Stagehand · 02-14-2011, 08:10 AM

Hey if you need a known working beancan for test I do believe I have one I could ship to you.

camgregus · 02-14-2011, 08:16 AM

I could use a known working beancan. I don't think it is a fuel issue. It seems electrical.. I relubed my beancan year before last and it got better.

DaveBall · 02-14-2011, 08:28 AM

Had similar issue a few years back. Replaced springs on mechanical advance as old ones had lost their tension. Lubed the pivot points and problem gone.

A whole lot cheaper to throw in a set of advance springs and lube the pivots than replacing the whole can. Total cost to replace, including the delivery by mail from closest dealer - less than $5.00.

supershaft · 02-14-2011, 09:24 AM

I have had bean cans act like that. Spark plug caps. Coil wires shorting at certain vibrations. Carb enricher body gaskets. Coils. It could be about anything.

Remember that aftermarket bean cans uses the exact same hall effect sensor that fails in the bean cans. The mechanical advance in the the bean can rarely acts up. When it does, it will slow acceleration and/or deceleration. It won't cause cutting out. It can't. It's mechanical, not electronic.

If they only made an electronic advance for points! Then we could truly have the worst of two worlds!

Kind of like the cable operated hydraulic brake!

camgregus · 02-14-2011, 04:43 PM

plug wires and caps are good. Later black coil....

Dragons.....

The Raven · 02-14-2011, 04:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by camgregus

plug wires and caps are good. Later black coil....

Dragons.....

Might be time to go to points

supershaft · 02-14-2011, 05:02 PM

This bike has points? I have seen them cause about every symptom known to the ignition system.

02-13-2011, 03:07 PM	#1
camgregus ^OP riding gently now Joined: Feb 2006 Location: on the banks of the mighty mississippi, AR side Oddometer: 2,946	weird stalling, hesitation My 1989 R100 GS is doing crazy stuff again. It runs and starts fine. After a couple of miles or so, it starts hesitating on acceleration in second and third gear. Stumbles like it is about to stall. I just replaced the diode board. New ICU last year. All connections are clean and renewed. Floats show the same amount of gas. Petcocks flow well. I drained all the old gas out and put new in (it was only two or three months old....) I love my bike, but I'm just getting sick of it not treating me well enough to get it warm enough to tune.... __________________ got to get it on the good foot

02-13-2011, 04:14 PM	#3
boxerboy81 Stay Horizontal Joined: Jul 2009 Location: Oz, Australia Oddometer: 1,603	Check the main jets for blockage. .. __________________ R100RS Gallery, over 800 pictures...

02-13-2011, 05:43 PM	#7
CurlyMike Formerly SaddleSoar Joined: Feb 2008 Location: east of Dallas Oddometer: 945	+3, thats the first thing I thought of when I read the title... I replaced mine with the electronic version from Rick at Motorrad Elektrik, have had no issues with the new upgrade. Yet to be seen if it will last 30 years like the last one. __________________ Giving the horses and the wife a break from riding...

02-13-2011, 06:10 PM	#8
hardwaregrrl Shit for brains Joined: Jan 2006 Location: Atlanta Oddometer: 4,867	Hate to say it... +3. Sounds like what happened to me when mine died. __________________ Trans Lab RR-broke down in Ontario-2 stroke fun for 200 bucks- TCAT R100 GS racks For Sale My life aboard an R80ST

02-14-2011, 08:10 AM	#9
Stagehand +/- V TDSPP Joined: Oct 2004 Location: "Poughkeepsie?!?!" Oddometer: 19,906	Hey if you need a known working beancan for test I do believe I have one I could ship to you. __________________ What to do... What to do...

02-13-2011, 04:32 PM	#4
bmwrench Beastly Adventurer Joined: Nov 2006 Oddometer: 1,462	This sounds like classic bean-can failure to me.

02-14-2011, 08:16 AM	#10
camgregus ^OP riding gently now Joined: Feb 2006 Location: on the banks of the mighty mississippi, AR side Oddometer: 2,946	I could use a known working beancan. I don't think it is a fuel issue. It seems electrical.. I relubed my beancan year before last and it got better. __________________ got to get it on the good foot

02-14-2011, 08:28 AM	#11
DaveBall Studly Adventurer Joined: Sep 2009 Location: Vancouver Island Oddometer: 923	Had similar issue a few years back. Replaced springs on mechanical advance as old ones had lost their tension. Lubed the pivot points and problem gone. A whole lot cheaper to throw in a set of advance springs and lube the pivots than replacing the whole can. Total cost to replace, including the delivery by mail from closest dealer - less than $5.00.

02-14-2011, 09:24 AM	#12
supershaft because I can Joined: Sep 2010 Location: San Francisco Bay area Oddometer: 6,070	I have had bean cans act like that. Spark plug caps. Coil wires shorting at certain vibrations. Carb enricher body gaskets. Coils. It could be about anything. Remember that aftermarket bean cans uses the exact same hall effect sensor that fails in the bean cans. The mechanical advance in the the bean can rarely acts up. When it does, it will slow acceleration and/or deceleration. It won't cause cutting out. It can't. It's mechanical, not electronic. If they only made an electronic advance for points! Then we could truly have the worst of two worlds! Kind of like the cable operated hydraulic brake!

02-14-2011, 04:43 PM	#13
camgregus ^OP riding gently now Joined: Feb 2006 Location: on the banks of the mighty mississippi, AR side Oddometer: 2,946	plug wires and caps are good. Later black coil.... Dragons..... __________________ got to get it on the good foot

02-14-2011, 05:02 PM	#15
supershaft because I can Joined: Sep 2010 Location: San Francisco Bay area Oddometer: 6,070	This bike has points? I have seen them cause about every symptom known to the ignition system.

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