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Old 06-02-2012, 10:00 AM   #481
Cortez
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Joined: Apr 2006
Location: Croatia
Oddometer: 6,862
That sounds about average for Croatia too.

One insurance company asked for over 1/3 of the price of my bike
(ninja 650R) / year, and told me that I should thank them because
they'll do it.

They were right, most insurance companies will not give full coverage
(damage/theft etc no matter what).

I ended up paying around $600/year and that was with a 60-70%
discount because I got insurance for a car too etc, and had a
close friend/relative in the insurance company.

Full price was over $1k/year (that's just the optional damage/theft
insurance, the regular insurance was another $400/year).

Bare in mind that the ninja 650R costs DOUBLE what you people pay
for it in USA ($10k+), and that most people here make no more then
$600/month.

Oh yeah, the fuel costs twice as much too.

250cc scooter here is considered a luxury.
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Old 06-03-2012, 05:56 AM   #482
petegailey
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Joined: Sep 2011
Location: Sydney Australia
Oddometer: 30
Race tech front springs and gold emulators

TOO WET FOR RIDING.
Cold and raining. Shocking weather in Sydney for riding, so I ended up taking the f800r over to Ians to fit the new race tech springs and emulators into the front forks. Ian had done the job before on his white f800r. Id had a short ride on his earlier in the month and it was far superior to the stock forks on my Orange Beastie, and as he'd done all the research I followed suit.

The f800r has notoriously soft front springs that can't be adjusted and Ians research was to replace the stock springs with .95kg/mm FRSP S3732095 Race tech springs, put in the Race Tech Gold Valve Cartridge Fork Emulators FEGV S4301 which can be adjusted, and use a heavier fork oil, (15W) .

Ordered the springs and emulators on line through Amazon and they eventually arrived on Thursday, so it was all systems go. Took three and a half hours all up which I was quiet impressed with. It was way out of my league technically but Ian had the knowledge, tools and the workshop so he did the mechanics I took the photos and we're making a tutorial out of it.



the.95kg/mm FRSP S3732095 Race Tech springs, Gold Valve cartridge emulators, and a litre of 15W fork oil.



Ian setting the valves




hanging the f800r before removing the brakes, mudguard and front wheel









Loosening the clamp bolts on the lower and upper yokes before slipping the fork leg out.




The fork upside down, Ian loosens the damper rod bolt



Then turning the fork over and removing the fork cap



removing the spacer


The washer,


and the spring.



pouring out the old oil from the fork.



The old stock spring below and the race tech spring above. The Race Tech spring is shorter than the stock spring



the Race Tech spring on the right


removing the damper rod bolt


and releasing the damper rod and rebound spring.



The compression holes in the damper rod have to be bored out to 9.5mm









The re-bored damper rod ready to be refitted and into the breech


followed by the emulator valve



re engaging the damper rod bolt


the new Race Tech spring drops in.



and the 1st washer


measuring up the new spacer


cutting it



the difference between the stock spring and spacer and the race tech spring and spacer.



pouring in the new 15W oil



measuring the oil level




preparing the fork top cap and 2nd washer



and screwing the fork cap on.




both forks re fitted with the re-bored damper rods, emulator valves, new race tech springs, 1st washer, fresh 15W fork oil, longer spacers, 2nd washer and fork caps secured ready to go back on the bike




and everything reassembled






Had a short run home in teeming rain but I have to say there is a marked improvement in handling and front wheel suspension. The bike is definitely more planted and responsive with jarring through the handle bars virtually eliminated. Can't wait for the roads to dry and to take on the Old Rd to really test it. It was a educational day in the workshop that's for sure. Thanks Ian.

petegailey screwed with this post 06-05-2012 at 04:51 AM Reason: typo
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Old 06-04-2012, 07:06 AM   #483
petegailey
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Joined: Sep 2011
Location: Sydney Australia
Oddometer: 30
Race tech front springs and gold emulators valves

Here are Ians notes on the job.

F800R Fork Upgrade Notes
2010 BMW F800R 11,145 km 3rd June, 2012

Sag
(Measured from top lip of dust seal to underside of triple tree)



Original
Modified


Unloaded
143
141
Gentle

109
Push
102
106
Sag
41
33


Fork Measurements and Notes

OEM
  • Oil level (no spring or spacer) with fork compressed - 100mm down
  • Spacer – 37mm OD x 90mm long – mild steel tube
  • Spring – 37.8mm OD with slight taper at lower end – free length 450mm
  • Damper rod 193mm long, 4 holes 7mm dia and one bleed 2.5mm dia
  • Retaining screw M8 x 18 – 5mm cap screw head
  • Top out spring – 36.8mm OD x 28.2mm long
  • Preload RHS 10mm & LHS 10mm
  • Free length – spring, spacer & washer – 542mm

Modified Values
  • Oil level (no spring, emulator or spacer) with fork compressed - 130mm down
  • Oil level all fitted – 95mm down
  • Damper rod – 4 existing holes drilled out to 9.5mm and de-burred
  • Bleed hole not modified
  • Spring – 37.0mm OD, 0.95kg/mm– free length 314mm (slight taper down)
  • Emulator FEGVS4301 fitted with yellow spring and 2 turns preload (add threadlock to nyloc nut)
  • Fork oil – Motul 15W
  • Spacer cut to LHS 221mm & 219mm RHS to give 20mm preload
  • One washer fitted either side of spacer
  • Forks heights set to 10mm (top of fork tube above triple tree)

Racetech
Springs Race Tech Fork Spring - 0.95kg/mm FRSP S3732095
Emulators Race Tech Gold Valve Cartridge Fork Emulator - FEGV S4301

Gold Valve blow-off valve springs
Blue 28.4mm OA, 9.1mm OD, 1.4mm wire 40lbs
Yellow 29.0mm OA, 9.1mm OD, 1.5mm wire 64lbs


Tools
  • T45 socket for callipers, axle lock screws and fork clamps
  • E10 socket for fork brace
  • T30 socket for ABS sensor & front guard
  • 22mm inhex socket or hex for front axle
  • 17mm spanner for fork caps
  • 6mm inhex socket for damper rod retaining screw
  • Plastic or soft vice jaws
  • Ruler and vernier calipers

Torques
  • Front axle 50Nm
  • Axle pinch bolts 20Nm (1-2-1 sequence)
  • Calipers 30Nm
  • Top cap 22Nm
  • Damper rod screw 20Nm
  • Handlebars clamp 28Nm (tighten forward screw first)
  • Fork bridge 22Nm
  • Upper triple tree 20Nm (1-2-1 sequence)
  • Lower triple tree 25Nm (1-2-1 sequence)


Parts
  • Emulator – Racetech FEGV S4301 - Amazon
  • Springs – Racetech FRSP S3732095 - Amazon
  • O-ring (2) – 31427702836
  • Copper washer (2) – 31422312710
  • Fork Oil – Motul Fork Oil 15W



petegailey screwed with this post 06-04-2012 at 07:09 AM Reason: typo
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Old 06-04-2012, 08:22 AM   #484
EmanP
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Joined: Feb 2012
Location: North of Seattle, WA
Oddometer: 88
Great write up! So what is a cartridge emulator?

*Nevermind, I found it. http://www.racetech.com/HTML_FILES/EMULATORGV.HTML
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Old 06-04-2012, 01:39 PM   #485
flkovacs
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Location: sf east bay
Oddometer: 191
Quote:
Originally Posted by totomoto View Post
Maybe this has been covered earlier but does anyone have recommendations for relatively affordable insurance? My quote came in at $800. I know that there are lots of variables but maybe someone has compared insurances with high coverage for liability, comprehensive and uninsured?
hmm it helps to shop around - i think i'm paying $20/month for two bikes with geico. not both are fully covered.
ferenc
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Old 06-04-2012, 01:43 PM   #486
flkovacs
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Location: sf east bay
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which motor oil should i use on my '11 f800r at 3k miles?
the factory recommended castrol gps is discontinued,
ferenc
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Old 06-04-2012, 01:50 PM   #487
flkovacs
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Joined: Feb 2009
Location: sf east bay
Oddometer: 191
Quote:
Originally Posted by petegailey View Post
Here are Ians notes on the job.

F800R Fork Upgrade Notes
2010 BMW F800R 11,145 km 3rd June, 2012

Sag
(Measured from top lip of dust seal to underside of triple tree)




Original



Modified





Unloaded



143



141



Gentle





109



Push



102



106



Sag



41



33





Fork Measurements and Notes

OEM
  • Oil level (no spring or spacer) with fork compressed - 100mm down
  • Spacer – 37mm OD x 90mm long – mild steel tube
  • Spring – 37.8mm OD with slight taper at lower end – free length 450mm
  • Damper rod 193mm long, 4 holes 7mm dia and one bleed 2.5mm dia
  • Retaining screw M8 x 18 – 5mm cap screw head
  • Top out spring – 36.8mm OD x 28.2mm long
  • Preload RHS 10mm & LHS 10mm
  • Free length – spring, spacer & washer – 542mm
Modified Values
  • Oil level (no spring, emulator or spacer) with fork compressed - 130mm down
  • Oil level all fitted – 95mm down
  • Damper rod – 4 existing holes drilled out to 9.5mm and de-burred
  • Bleed hole not modified
  • Spring – 37.0mm OD, 0.95kg/mm– free length 314mm (slight taper down)
  • Emulator FEGVS4301 fitted with yellow spring and 2 turns preload (add threadlock to nyloc nut)
  • Fork oil – Motul 15W
  • Spacer cut to LHS 221mm & 219mm RHS to give 20mm preload
  • One washer fitted either side of spacer
  • Forks heights set to 10mm (top of fork tube above triple tree)
Racetech
Springs Race Tech Fork Spring - 0.95kg/mm FRSP S3732095
Emulators Race Tech Gold Valve Cartridge Fork Emulator - FEGV S4301

Gold Valve blow-off valve springs
Blue 28.4mm OA, 9.1mm OD, 1.4mm wire 40lbs
Yellow 29.0mm OA, 9.1mm OD, 1.5mm wire 64lbs


Tools
  • T45 socket for callipers, axle lock screws and fork clamps
  • E10 socket for fork brace
  • T30 socket for ABS sensor & front guard
  • 22mm inhex socket or hex for front axle
  • 17mm spanner for fork caps
  • 6mm inhex socket for damper rod retaining screw
  • Plastic or soft vice jaws
  • Ruler and vernier calipers
Torques
  • Front axle 50Nm
  • Axle pinch bolts 20Nm (1-2-1 sequence)
  • Calipers 30Nm
  • Top cap 22Nm
  • Damper rod screw 20Nm
  • Handlebars clamp 28Nm (tighten forward screw first)
  • Fork bridge 22Nm
  • Upper triple tree 20Nm (1-2-1 sequence)
  • Lower triple tree 25Nm (1-2-1 sequence)

Parts
  • Emulator – Racetech FEGV S4301 - Amazon
  • Springs – Racetech FRSP S3732095 - Amazon
  • O-ring (2) – 31427702836
  • Copper washer (2) – 31422312710
  • Fork Oil – Motul Fork Oil 15W

WOW, you get the best write up of the year award!
If I wind up keeping this bike, I'll follow your lead.
thanks,
ferenc
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Old 06-04-2012, 07:27 PM   #488
moe.ron
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Joined: Mar 2009
Location: Ventura County
Oddometer: 2,478
Quote:
Originally Posted by flkovacs View Post
which motor oil should i use on my '11 f800r at 3k miles?
the factory recommended castrol gps is discontinued,
ferenc

This should be the stuff...


http://www.castrol.com/castrol/secti...tentId=7040925


I am going to change mine at 3K too, even though the dealer swears its not necessary. I just want to make sure all the crap from the break in period is out of the case, going to follow the maintenance schedule after that.
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Old 06-04-2012, 07:32 PM   #489
EmanP
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Joined: Feb 2012
Location: North of Seattle, WA
Oddometer: 88
I changed my oil 3 times usuing conventional motor oil before BMW did their 600 mile service at 1200 miles just to make sure that junk was out of there and quick. First when I got it home at 40 miles, then again at 200 and again at 800. Filter changed with the oil. When I had it serviced I thought they had told me that it's scheduled service intervals were every 6K and oil at every 3K. Is that not right?
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Old 06-04-2012, 07:52 PM   #490
moe.ron
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They told me every 6000 miles or yearly, whichever comes first. Cant find it in writing though.
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Old 06-05-2012, 04:59 AM   #491
petegailey
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Joined: Sep 2011
Location: Sydney Australia
Oddometer: 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by flkovacs View Post
WOW, you get the best write up of the year award!
If I wind up keeping this bike, I'll follow your lead.
thanks,
ferenc
Ive put the full version of the tutorial on the F800 riders forum under the F800R modifications forums.
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Old 06-05-2012, 05:58 AM   #492
flkovacs
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Joined: Feb 2009
Location: sf east bay
Oddometer: 191
Quote:
Originally Posted by Serge A. Storms View Post
This should be the stuff...


http://www.castrol.com/castrol/secti...tentId=7040925


I am going to change mine at 3K too, even though the dealer swears its not necessary. I just want to make sure all the crap from the break in period is out of the case, going to follow the maintenance schedule after that.
I am told BMW 'brand' oil is a Castrol (BP crude) blend, but that it is all synthetic. The Castrol synthetic/mineral blend the manual recommends has been discontinued, but the above and the replacement blend do not claim the SH API rating.

After 2400 miles, the oil the dealer put in looked pretty mucky, so a change was in order, even though the factory recommendation is to wait until 6k miles. My not-so-local dealer was the one who suggested I change it at 3k miles, even giving me a printout of the manual on how to change it. It was much simpler than on the two older BMWs I'm maintaining!

After a number of phone calls, I bought from a nearby Cycle Gear some Swiss made (!) synth-blend oil, called Motorex, that had the proper viscosity and API rating. Let's see how it looks after 3k miles. It was not cheap.

Incidentally, does it make a difference if the oil level is checked on a side stand or a center stand? Note they want it checked with a specifically warmed up engine.
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Old 06-05-2012, 06:36 AM   #493
moe.ron
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Location: Ventura County
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Mine is a 2012. When I get to work I am going to look at what oil BMW actually put their label on. Now I'm curious. The bike is supposed to be upright when the oil is checked, I let mine sit for the amount of time it takes to get my gear off before checking.

Engine oil for motorcycles with wet clutch, API
SG/SH/JASO MA

-4 °F (-20 °C)
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moe.ron screwed with this post 06-05-2012 at 07:53 AM Reason: Edited to check for validity.
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Old 06-05-2012, 07:44 PM   #494
flkovacs
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Joined: Feb 2009
Location: sf east bay
Oddometer: 191
Quote:
Originally Posted by Serge A. Storms View Post
Mine is a 2012. When I get to work I am going to look at what oil BMW actually put their label on. Now I'm curious. The bike is supposed to be upright when the oil is checked, I let mine sit for the amount of time it takes to get my gear off before checking.

Engine oil for motorcycles with wet clutch, API
SG/SH/JASO MA
-4 °F (-20 °C)
took 2.7l with new filter. i did NOT turn over the engine while draining.
1 cup is the appx difference between low and high, but i'm willing to be corrected!

a sight glass would have made so much more sense.

the other thing i miss about my previous bike is the shaft - keep forgetting to lube the darn chain. i'm switched over to the z-clean/lube product, every 500 miles.

enjoy,
ferenc
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Old 06-05-2012, 08:38 PM   #495
moe.ron
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So the owners manual recommends Castrol, but the BMW bottle says its blended and packaged by a company called Spectro Oil.
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