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Old 04-04-2011, 04:04 PM   #16
jazzdrum69
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I ordered these: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=110668293465

Mine might be a few mm deeper than the one's 606 got.

Could you elaborate on why the bulbs didn't fit? were they too short, was the stalk square vs angled or vise versa...were the pins too close or far?

will most def post pics but I have an APO addy so it may be a few weeks before everything arrives.

still pondering mounting options...
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Old 04-04-2011, 04:32 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jazzdrum69 View Post
I ordered these: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=110668293465

Mine might be a few mm deeper than the one's 606 got.

Could you elaborate on why the bulbs didn't fit? were they too short, was the stalk square vs angled or vise versa...were the pins too close or far?

will most def post pics but I have an APO addy so it may be a few weeks before everything arrives.

still pondering mounting options...
All MR16 GX5.3 base lamps should be the same size.
That is a standardized size but when I got my LED MR16's they were a little taller from the pins to the front of the glass lens and also the pins wouldn't go into the socket. I think they were a little bit too wide apart. This is what you get with a $1 LED MR16 from China. That doesn't mean the LEDs are junk it just means they don't adhere well to the standardized size of an MR16 lamp. This is not unusual in lighting.

If you go and buy a 4ft 32 watt T8 fluorescent lamp from GE and one from Philips and another from Sylvania - they will all have a little different overall length even though all 4ft T8 fluorescents "should" meet an ANSI standard for dimensions. So they fit in a 4ft fluorescent light fixture equally well and are interchangeable. Hope that answers your question.

I can tell by the picture and spec info that the lamp you ordered is the same as the one I used. They should work fine

JUST UPLOADED NEW PIX ON FIRST POST - PAGE 1

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Old 04-09-2011, 11:24 PM   #18
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Thanks for posting this and adding the links and pictures and everything else. How far out do these reach? Did you have to aim these down so people don't flash their brights?

I'm looking to fill the gap between the front wheel and where the headlight starts, up to about 20 feet out, with a similar brightness as the single headlight. TIA for any replies.
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Old 04-10-2011, 06:13 AM   #19
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This is a nice hack. However those lights are not as bright as 55W halogens. I have them in pendant lights replacing 12V 20W halogens, and their brightness in the center of the beam is approximately the same, but the halogen bulb has a wider spread.
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Old 04-10-2011, 07:18 AM   #20
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This is a nice hack. However those lights are not as bright as 55W halogens. I have them in pendant lights replacing 12V 20W halogens, and their brightness in the center of the beam is approximately the same, but the halogen bulb has a wider spread.


I said that the pair is similar to 50w halogen. That means the 4w LED MR16 is about the same light output as 1 - 25w halogen lamp. Again that is from the Ebay ad. I don't think that is too far off.

These lights fill in the area I wanted to so they work for me.

The purpose of this project is not to create LED auxillary lights that equal 55w Halogen driving lights.

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Old 04-10-2011, 07:22 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by flatfender View Post
Thanks for posting this and adding the links and pictures and everything else. How far out do these reach? Did you have to aim these down so people don't flash their brights?

I'm looking to fill the gap between the front wheel and where the headlight starts, up to about 20 feet out, with a similar brightness as the single headlight. TIA for any replies.
I have them angled down and out to the sides. I ride through some wooded areas that have alot of Deer. I want light out on the sides of the road so I can see a Deer that may jump out.

They are only 4watts each. They are not nearly as glaring as my headlight highbeam to oncoming drivers.

The great thing about this project is that you buy different bulbs and experiment.
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Old 04-10-2011, 07:27 AM   #22
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Thanks for posting
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Old 04-10-2011, 07:35 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 606XXZIP View Post
I have them angled down and out to the sides. I ride through some wooded areas that have alot of Deer. I want light out on the sides of the road so I can see a Deer that may jump out.

They are only 4watts each. They are not nearly as glaring as my headlight highbeam to oncoming drivers.

The great thing about this project is that you buy different bulbs and experiment.
thanks for your reply
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Old 04-10-2011, 08:10 AM   #24
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These will be great visibility lights.
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Old 04-10-2011, 08:27 AM   #25
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Thanks for the info!
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Old 04-10-2011, 09:23 AM   #26
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Aux. lighting

I got 2 "Banshee" quad lights from local shop, 30.00. Had some Acherbis mounts and tapped them for the hollow stem and just used the 7/8 bar mounting. Quick connects complete the install from hi beam wire harness. 35w each, 1 spot and the other flood pattern. mr-16 standard 2 pin bulbs, with enclosed glass. The after market housings have rubber grommets, that absorb vibration and keep water out, and the front rings are threaded to the lamp housing for tight fit...
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Old 04-10-2011, 06:39 PM   #27
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Cool enduro - Thanks for posting pics !

We need more pics of DIY LED Projects that people did.
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Old 04-15-2011, 07:00 AM   #28
jazzdrum69
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my attempt at this cool mod.

So I got all my crap in and put it together. The bulbs I got were actually deeper than the light housing. Initially they wouldnt go all the way into the housing but after I pinched the two pins on the back of the bulbs then the bulbs would fit into the housing with the front cover twisted on tight, however the two pins would protrude through the back wiring hole by about 1mm.

So I unscrewed the base of the bulb and clipped the wires that connected to the pins from the inside (where the LED driver circuitry was), pulled out the pins with some cajoling using needle nose pliers, and then drilled out the holes in the bulb base so that I could run wiring into the cavity where the driver circuitry is, saudered some wires (the ones included with the lights...high quality switch, zip ties, and 14-ish gauge wiring) to the wiring connected to the driver circuitry, then screwewd it all back together and applied some RT silicone sealant to the holes just to keep the water tight. I also applied the same sealant to the outer front rim of each LED bulb to keep them a bit weatherproof from oncoming rain.

I had to do this to free up room in the housing. Now the wires leave the base of the bulb and immediatly exit the housing. I used a layer of shrink wrap on each wire, and then a layer around both...this should help keep vibration from rubbing through the wires insulation...I was too much in a rush to file down the drilled out holes and I didn't have any cool grommets.


By jazzrider at 2011-04-15



It was a bit of a pain, but actually kind of fun. Troubleshooting and problemsolving are kind of a game to me...how can I take this cheap setup and make it work for ME?

Anyways, I also had to drill out the back of the housing a tiny bit because the mr16 socket was held in place by a metal "cup" like piece of metal that also obstructed the bulb from fitting into the housing.

Let's just say that its tight in there now.

The actual units are fairly small, which I like. I got these 5 watt bulbs: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWNX:IT , just like the ones the OP got but with one extra LED in the middle. I got warm white, but white and cool white were available (actually several colors are available too). I haven't yet tested these out at night, but I'm guessing these might pump out close to 500 lumens or so. Even if they aren't incredibly bright, I like the look and the fact that they will increase my conspicuity/safety factor.

I also like how my headlight chrome trim matches the extra lights.

I was careful to ensure these do not impede my steering lock. I have about 1.5-2 inches of extra space between lights and grips at full turn.

As the OP mentioned, higher wattage bulbs are available too.

angle view

By jazzrider at 2011-04-15

from above


By jazzrider at 2011-04-15

straight on

By jazzrider at 2011-04-15

front angle

By jazzrider at 2011-04-15

So thanks again to the OP for putting this idea out there. I like the fact that the MR16 bulbs are small, cheap, and easily replaceable, switchable for different beam colors, projection spread, brightness, etc.
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Old 04-15-2011, 08:07 AM   #29
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Very Cool ! Bravo

You did it basically the same way I did mine. I drilled the hole a little larger in the back of the housing and installed a rubber grommet so the wires won't rub and short out on the housing. Make sure you fuse the lights on their own fuse probably 3-5 amp fuse would be fine.

Please take some night pictures also and post them.
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Old 04-15-2011, 07:16 PM   #30
jazzdrum69
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yes

600zzxxxp you are right! I aint gonna lie, I actually had a couple of grommets that would have been perfect for this, but I plan on using them to tidy up my undertail/blinker setup.

This wiring could be better but I have very little to work with...so thanx again and maybe I will later upgrade to a 7-10 watt setup when the LED tech evolves and cheapens...we will see....I would like to clean up the light housing's butthole though....

I have a Euro Hornet whose light reflecter originally included a running light that seemed useless (is this a legal requirement?). Recently, my bike was backed into by a huge SUV and I replaced the euro headlight reflecter with a US market type...and it didn;t have the socket for the running light...which left me with a powered switched source...so I use that. no problems so far, but I have spare fuses on hand and a leatherman. worst case scenerio I clip it then run it from my fused power bloock under the seat. Yes I am a gadget whore. and yes you are the manly OP.


jazzdrum69 screwed with this post 04-15-2011 at 08:14 PM
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