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Old 02-07-2013, 06:50 PM   #301
DRONE OP
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Originally Posted by davebig View Post
Ned
You didn't do that bad with your fz-1 mount, hell even my welder electrical tech mentor makes himself diagrams even draws more complex circuits on his computer before creating them,( eccentric prefers classical music while welding) .The important thing to remember is one never has enough good crimping and or stripping tools.
I was tempted to put a battery back in my stock position to just have terminals to attach everything to and make the area neater, and I may yet.DB
Be cool to have two batteries. Need some kind of isolator between them so you always got one battery full.

In my pic there, the big wire wrapped around in front is actually an 18-inch pigtail that attaches to my heated seat. I also have a 12-inch pigtail for my heated jacket somewhere in that mess. Take away those two things and it would look a bit tidier.

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Sometimes I think you and me are the only ones subscribed to this thread, but the view count keeps going up so I guess somebody else must find this chatter entertaining. Over 40,000 views now.
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Old 02-07-2013, 07:11 PM   #302
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Diode isolator system

This popped right up, I'm going to discuss it with mentor tomorrow.DB
http://www.overland.co.za/Dual_Batte...batt_diode.jpg
Heated seat !!!!!!!!!!!!! I was raised Roman Catholic too much comfort is bad !!!!!!!!!!! LOL
40,000 wiews
Wumpa is not my idea of Valhalla but its very nicely turned out rig the tail light on the trunk is very nice, all and all its the best looking one on ADV.DB
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davebig screwed with this post 02-07-2013 at 07:19 PM
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Old 02-08-2013, 11:12 AM   #303
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DB:

Thanks for posting that link.

FYI, Clearwater sells a solid-state LED Voltage Sensor. They have a version that works with 2 batteries [they developed it for police bikes]. It's not shown on their website - you need to call them and ask about it.

http://clearwaterlights.com/products2_pp.html

Web bike world did a write up on it a couple of years ago.

http://www.webbikeworld.com/r4/clear...oltage-sentry/

Sure do wish you would post pics of your battery and electrical setup.

Thanks,
Duncan
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Old 02-08-2013, 01:49 PM   #304
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Duncan

My stuff is not done so there's not much to see my thread http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...=826829&page=4
I'm considering running the motorcycle battery also just to have terminals up there to make neater connections , my welder electrical tech guru says 2 battery systems don't need isolators unless there is multiple big loads(RV frigs, huge sound systems etc) as Ned is doing it's better to have a plan and make a diagram, then decide how to proceed. I just wanted a huge battery and on the frame rail it doesn't use up trunk space, and its ballast besides.DB
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Old 02-08-2013, 11:33 PM   #305
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Haven't recently read whole thread so maybe missed something and don't know what your experience there is, but on the dual battery thing: for RV's and some truck setups we use a Battery Isolator. These split the charging so that the main vehicle battery is always fully recharged first, then when it's fully charged the charge output from alternator automatically switches to the auxiliary battery until it's fully charged as well.

This way your primary battery for starting is always ready to work and the charging of auxiliary doesn't rob charging from main. Without these Isolators, in an RV, you can accidently discharge auxiliary, then maybe have some hard starting for the main and next you know everything is dead. So it's good backup protection. Isolators are a little pricey but if you shop around a dual system isn't that bad.

Anyways, nice build!
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Old 02-09-2013, 10:26 AM   #306
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Originally Posted by XL-erate View Post
Haven't recently read whole thread so maybe missed something and don't know what your experience there is, but on the dual battery thing: for RV's and some truck setups we use a Battery Isolator. These split the charging so that the main vehicle battery is always fully recharged first, then when it's fully charged the charge output from alternator automatically switches to the auxiliary battery until it's fully charged as well.

This way your primary battery for starting is always ready to work and the charging of auxiliary doesn't rob charging from main. Without these Isolators, in an RV, you can accidently discharge auxiliary, then maybe have some hard starting for the main and next you know everything is dead. So it's good backup protection. Isolators are a little pricey but if you shop around a dual system isn't that bad.

Anyways, nice build!
That's kinda what we were talking about above. When I Google it, I seem to come up with all sorts of things but nothing that seems to fit the bill.

As an experienced user of a battery isolator, would you have a link to a product that you think would work well on a sidecar rig? I'm thinking something smaller and more compact than maybe what you might choose for an RV.
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Old 02-09-2013, 04:09 PM   #307
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As an experienced user of a battery isolator, would you have a link to a product that you think would work well on a sidecar rig? I'm thinking something smaller and more compact than maybe what you might choose for an RV.[/QUOTE]

I was talking to welder electrical tech this AM he says isolators are unnecessary for our application as we don't have enough load,RV frigs, inverters running amps so you can practice playing you telecaster for Kirby or a microwave, all that stuff eats power.An LED reading light for your tent or radio isn't going to take much. But if one has to have one the switches are better than the diode setup I found earlier as there is usually a .4-.6 V drop across the diode and motorcycles never really have more than enough.Meaning if ones got allot of stuff running and the regulators holding 13.6 one doesn't want to loose any of that.DB
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Old 02-10-2013, 02:14 PM   #308
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Drone and Duncan

I struggle with minor decisions, but am great at major ones.Minor one I ordered a Westco battery for my rig and will make it into a dual battery setup only because it will give two good terminals I can add copper buss bars too and just make the area neater,I'll add an Eastern Beaver 3 circuit solution and I have my blue sea fusebox in the trunk.I don't plan on a battery isolator, I have no need.
So what electrical devices do you guys take out and about camping or traveling ???? Inquiring minds want to know.DB
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Old 02-10-2013, 02:55 PM   #309
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My education

I started with this I got from one of Drones Firecrest neighbors, I don't think he knew allot more about it than I did, I asked had it been professionally installed he said yes.Parade rig only went straight of course it had 20" of wheel lead .

I tried just adding a Steerite it was only marginally better, I talked to Brock and paid another sidecar guy in IA to remount it, It was better it only had about 11-12 " of lead and was doable but he liked allot of lean out and I kept falling off the saddle.Welder buddy and I didn't have enough to do for a bit Brock and Claude gave me some advice and walla we cut the mounts off reattached and it was down to 9 " lead and was a very usable sidecar, big battery in the trunk 18" wheel on chair and front, bumpers PIAA's, better upholstery, headlight in a relay circuit and power plugs and aux fuse block in faux tank via E Beaver, drilled brake rotors and steel lines it stopped as good as my BMW's.If it would have been easy to add ground clearance I would still have it those old wings hang on like grim death.DB

Just not enough ground clearance for wet spring roads we had just dragged the sump through a wet frost pocket hole.
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Old 02-11-2013, 06:31 PM   #310
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davebig View Post
As an experienced user of a battery isolator, would you have a link to a product that you think would work well on a sidecar rig? I'm thinking something smaller and more compact than maybe what you might choose for an RV.






For what it's worth: check marine suppliers (like West Marine). In my former life I piloted offshore speedboats which all contained 2-battery system switches/isolaters. Guest was one brand name device. Smallish - would easily be adaptable to motorbike & sidecar use.
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Old 02-12-2013, 04:06 AM   #311
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When I saw that you were looking for battery isolators I immediately thought of the 4WD Jeep market.
Check this link.
http://www.4wd.com/Jeep-Performance-...pn=WNP17MBS200
Is this what you are looking for?
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Old 02-12-2013, 09:34 AM   #312
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When I saw that you were looking for battery isolators I immediately thought of the 4WD Jeep market.
Check this link.
http://www.4wd.com/Jeep-Performance-...pn=WNP17MBS200
Is this what you are looking for?
Your link is to an "old technology" diode-type battery isolator. Looks something like this--




Diode isolators work, and they get used a lot in boats and RV's etc., but they need all those cooling fins because diode-type isolators get hot. Heat=bad, IMO. Also, diode-type isolators consume a certain amount of juice so that your bike is gonna run at less than full voltage and the two batteries never really reach full charge.

A more "new technology" isolator is a voltage sensing relay sometimes called an ACR (Automatic Charging Relay). Consumes only milli-amps of power and produces no heat. Something like this--




Here's a cool diagram from the Blue Sea website showing the difference in how they get wired up--




Seems like the ACR would work a lot better on a bike. BTW, that ACR shown above only costs $85 - link.

If you want to do something like this, you need to make sure that the power for the aux circuits that you plan to use when the bike is not running comes from the 2nd battery, not from your main battery. If you have an aux fuse panel that is triggered by a switched circuit (fuse panel turns on only when the bike is running), then the aux circuits that you want to run when the bike is turned off are going to have to be connected directly to the 2nd battery, or install a 2nd fuse panel powered by the 2nd battery with a trigger switch that also goes directly to the 2nd battery.

There's a lot of good basic info about isolators at the Yandina website. Yandina is a West Marine spin-off located in South Carolina.
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DRONE screwed with this post 02-12-2013 at 06:20 PM
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Old 02-12-2013, 09:43 AM   #313
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Sorry, I didn't get back to see the requests for more info! In addition to the excellent information already posted:

I use Sure Power isolators, good quality and fairly reasonable prices. They come in all sizes according to needs i.e. load etc. Prices from like $25 on up for the 'older style' isolators:

http://www.ase-supply.com/Battery_Is...ower_s/153.htm

A lot of peace of mind if you're out boondocking.

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Old 02-12-2013, 11:15 AM   #314
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I plead ignorance !

When I quoted Drone once I trimmed it poorly, I thought he was interested in a battery isolator, I intend to try a 2 battery system w/o isolator as I have no huge loads to isolate the batteries from each other for. I'm adding a battery in my stock position mostly to have terminals to connect the power leads and not hack-up my BMW harness just a neat spot to make connections. If I have issues I'll consider an isolator.
Ned if you want to add a battery to your trunk (ballast) I'll have lots of leftover 4 awg welding cable in black and red, if you like. I bought 50' as the cost was good and we will eventually use it at friends welding, welder repair shop.
I'll repeat my question,what 12v devices do you take camping ? Did you recognize my Honda/ Ural from Firecrest ? DB
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Old 02-12-2013, 06:37 PM   #315
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I'll repeat my question,what 12v devices do you take camping ? Did you recognize my Honda/ Ural from Firecrest ? DB
I don't recognize the Fircrest rig, sorry.

Right now, I power NOTHING from the rig at my campsite. I'm afraid of waking up to a dead battery! But . . . if I had two batteries with an isolator I would consider (1) leaving my somewhat huge CPAP battery at home, (2) wearing my Gerbings jacket inside my sleeping bag instead of being cold all night (not old age--I've always slept cold, even when I was a teenager), and (3) moving the heated seat cushion for Kirby from the bike to the tent so that he's not shivering all night.

Then, of course, there's always the RoadPro 12-volt Pizza Oven. You carry one of those don't you?

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