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Old 04-02-2013, 07:49 AM   #346
davebig
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Originally Posted by claude View Post
Dave it was probably the little guys in your head talking. You could hear them louder with the helme ton than with it off. Don't blame the exhaust.
Why thank you Claude !!!!!!
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Old 04-02-2013, 08:46 AM   #347
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Don't be pissed those little guys in your head are pretty sharp. lol.
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Old 04-02-2013, 09:44 AM   #348
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foilheads

I'm going to line my helmet with aluminum foil like the Uralista's so the inmates won't know what I'm thinking not to mention the government,cia, fox snooze and countless others !
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Old 04-02-2013, 03:46 PM   #349
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The vibrations thing is interesting. Claude may recall when I talked to him about this a while back.

Everything has a vibration or personal wave form frequency to it, especially machines and electronic devices but also everything on earth and in the universe. Each has its own signature, but this can vary at differences in speed, rpm, applied power, voltage, orbits, mass etc.

There's another factor known as sinusoidal wave harmonics [see Tesla and Steinmetz]. That occurs when two disimilar wave forms develop a shared sympathetic wave form. Most have experienced this and didn't even notice.

Say on a summer day you're kicked back with the air conditioner on. The fan motor and compressor are making 'their noise' which is a series of vibration and wave forms. You hear a rhythmic hmmmmm - hmmmmm - hmmmmm in the background as the A/C runs. Then the refrigerator kicks on in the kitchen and it makes it's own set of vibrations and waves from its own fan and compressor, hmm-hmm-hmm-hmm at a different set of frequencies, speeds and durations, or waveforms.

After a couple of minutes if you listen closely the two separate wave forms will soon develop one sympathetic wave form, distinguishable as a different noise, that is the sinusoidal wave harmonic, as the two come into harmony with each other, hmmmm-hmm-hmmmm-hmm-hmmmm-hmm. That's different from the separate wave forms of each device and will always occur. The original separate waves have apparently disappeared. It should always be a perfect balance or combination of the many separate wave forms. One would note that the original wave forms of each device were also a result of combining waverforms of all individual parts as they operated together in each unit.

A tire out of balance will have a different wave form when in motion than the identical tire in balance. That wave form will also change according to rotational speed and even air pressure. Two different tires will have two different wave forms, and again this will vary according to speed etc. In the case of the motor, trans, tires, bearings, all moving parts on the bike having individual wave form signatures, a change in any one will effect that total wave harmonic between all. Some bikes are obviously in more perfect balance overall than others, and some are even intentionally designed to be slightly out of balance, not naming names.

The more perfectly balanced the machine is overall, the easier it is to sense any change in the wave harmonics associated with it. Therefore what is sensed as a vibration, imbalance or incompatible noise apparently coming as a result of changing one thing may in fact be the total wave harmonic of all things operating in unison, the wave harmonic, which has changed.

Similarly, even if the difference came about by a change in one wave producer, it may again be changed by altering some other wave producer. It's this wave harmonic that can be near impossible to pin down because it isn't a product of any one item causing the perceived imbalance or vibration etc. The harmonic has a center at the center of total mass in motion, but it could be changed or altered by making changes anywhere from front to rear, above or below that center of total mass in motion.

That's one reason why you can solve a handlebar vibration by any one of a dozen different methods, because whatever change is made effects the total wave harmonic that causes the vibration in the first place. Similarly, you might be able to solve a rear tire 'problem' by re-balancing, even intentionally imbalancing, or by more or less air pressure, or adjusting spokes, tightening axle nuts, adding grease etc. That's because all will have an effect on the total picture of a sympathetic wave harmonic frequency that is born out of the inter-connected frequencies of all parts that are mass in motion operating together, or sympathetically. Saying therefore that changing front tire pressure or balance could conceivably cause a change in a harmonic frequency that originally developed as a result of changing rear tire carcass!

I find this fascinating and just wanted to share it for those other screwballs that might be interested. It can open up the possibilities in solving some peculiar problems when the total machine is addressed instead of just the individual component parts.

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XL-erate screwed with this post 04-02-2013 at 03:53 PM
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Old 04-02-2013, 05:26 PM   #350
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Xl

Xl nobody does it better than you ! That's wordy and verbose at levels most of us can't reach, I served in the USN ships of all sizes and shapes are full of harmonics nothing will bring a sailor out of a sound sleep faster than machinery changing dramatically in the middle of the night !
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Old 04-02-2013, 11:57 PM   #351
XL-erate
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davebig View Post
Xl nobody does it better than you ! That's wordy and verbose at levels most of us can't reach, I served in the USN ships of all sizes and shapes are full of harmonics nothing will bring a sailor out of a sound sleep faster than machinery changing dramatically in the middle of the night !
I hope it wasn't 'too much' there, Dave. Just that I got to thinking about it and figured I'd share some of the 'why' with all the rest of the 'what' that we usually deal with. It can finally explain some things that were previously unexplainable.

YES! on the ship's harmonics. My usual ride is a sort of panel truck, a rolling echo chamber on wheels. Real familiar with the 'WHAT WAS THAT!?' thing!
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Old 04-07-2013, 06:13 AM   #352
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ah hmmmm !

Ned
We are all waiting patiently for a final drive post. DB
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Old 04-07-2013, 09:20 AM   #353
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Originally Posted by davebig View Post
Ned
We are all waiting patiently for a final drive post. DB
Install to happen this week along with the new drive shaft, JL paralever bushings, and a new rear rotor.
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Old 04-07-2013, 12:05 PM   #354
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Originally Posted by DRONE View Post
Install to happen this week along with the new drive shaft, JL paralever bushings, and a new rear rotor.
I just came in its 42 degrees and after the ride the suns trying to get out,I thought that 33/11 would enough for me but I don't think so today I wish it would pull a little harder in high gear I have since acquired a 34/11 and that will eventually end up installed.DB
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Old 04-09-2013, 06:13 PM   #355
DRONE OP
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Crap!

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Install to happen this week along with the new drive shaft, JL paralever bushings, and a new rear rotor.
Final Drive install is STALLED! The FD I bought from another inmate is a 34/11 with 22,000 miles from a non-ABS R1100RS that was being parted out after a wreck. Though my 2004 GSA started out as an ABS bike, the PO removed the ABS modulator, so the ABS rings and sensors and switches and lights are all non-functioning. Putting a non-ABS final drive on my bike should not have been a problem. In fact, I'd finally be able to get rid of the sensor ring and the sensor sending unit and wiring.

Wrong!

Turns out that the brake caliper that fits the ABS bikes (mine) are different from the ones that fit the non-ABS bikes! I got two possible solutions--(1) replace my rear caliper with the non-ABS caliper, or (2) swap the final drive housing covers on the two final drives. If I choose to do (2) the caliper mounting tabs will now fit, but then I have a new problem which is that the ABS housing cover has a big hole in it (where the ABS sensor was located) that has to be plugged somehow.

Crap!

You know I did a lot of research about this before I spent the money on the new final drive and not once did anybody ever mention that the calipers were non-simpatico.

You know this is gonna end up costing me more than if I simply bought a brand new set of crown gears from BMW ($600) and had them completely rebuild my FD. Frack! Frack! Frack!

More to come.
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Old 04-09-2013, 07:15 PM   #356
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Originally Posted by DRONE View Post
Final Drive install is STALLED! The FD I bought from another inmate is a 34/11 with 22,000 miles from a non-ABS R1100RS that was being parted out after a wreck. Though my 2004 GSA started out as an ABS bike, the PO removed the ABS modulator, so the ABS rings and sensors and switches and lights are all non-functioning. Putting a non-ABS final drive on my bike should not have been a problem. In fact, I'd finally be able to get rid of the sensor ring and the sensor sending unit and wiring.

Wrong!

Turns out that the brake caliper that fits the ABS bikes (mine) are different from the ones that fit the non-ABS bikes! I got two possible solutions--(1) replace my rear caliper with the non-ABS caliper, or (2) swap the final drive housing covers on the two final drives. If I choose to do (2) the caliper mounting tabs will now fit, but then I have a new problem which is that the ABS housing cover has a big hole in it (where the ABS sensor was located) that has to be plugged somehow.

Crap!

You know I did a lot of research about this before I spent the money on the new final drive and not once did anybody ever mention that the calipers were non-simpatico.

You know this is gonna end up costing me more than if I simply bought a brand new set of crown gears from BMW ($600) and had them completely rebuild my FD. Frack! Frack! Frack!

More to come.
Gawd what a drama ! Ok so you have a unused sensor hole is it aluminum ? welding shop or even Jay should be able to close that for you or cut one tab off and weld it in the proper position any decent tig welder should be able to handle that chore, if your bikes an 04 you have Tokico calipers it may be as simple as the difference between a tokico and a brembo caliper, If Jay still has his wife's RS/ kenda go do a little measuring .DB
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Old 04-09-2013, 07:31 PM   #357
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Ok drama king a quick check of Max's fiche part numbers show indeed the RS has a completely different FD back cover number from the others that show only 2 variations abs or non abs.
Take the cover or the entire FD your caliper and the bolts to a welder and it shouldn't be much of a job.DB
I believe I may be doing that myself as I have a 34/11 laying in the garage. if you'd like I'll do a little measuring in the am and let you know.DB
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Old 04-09-2013, 07:48 PM   #358
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why not just turn/have turned a plug on the lathe and epoxy it into the final drive case?

if its just a hole for an abs sensor, it shouldn't pass thru any sort of fluid cavity, does it? (man thats stupid if it does)

any pics of the situation at hand?
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Old 04-09-2013, 10:42 PM   #359
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why not just turn/have turned a plug on the lathe and epoxy it into the final drive case?

if its just a hole for an abs sensor, it shouldn't pass thru any sort of fluid cavity, does it? (man thats stupid if it does)

any pics of the situation at hand?
Boy, could it be that simple? If it were that simple, and if I were you, I would pick up the phone and dial a number that starts with 208 and ask a buddy who would be happy to turn you a plug to turn you a plug and mail it to you. If only you knew someone who had a lathe.
I'm pretty sure that lathe is available now cause 5 minutes ago it just finished turning out a brand spanking new ramrod for an original Prussian musket.
Ill wait for pics and dimensions and keep the South Bend warmed up.
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Old 04-10-2013, 03:33 AM   #360
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If you want to keep the FD with the hole, just find an used ABS sensor, (I may have one, have to check later), cut the wiring and plug it with the small bolt in the hole.
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