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Old 04-29-2011, 05:27 AM   #31
Joz OP
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Thanks! 4btswaps.com has been massively helpful already. Yes, there is a tremendous amount of information in there.
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Diesel RV build

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Old 04-29-2011, 05:37 AM   #32
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When it comes time to wrap it up, Dyna-Mat or Road-Kill the inside of the firewall and everything else you can get to. Should help the noise issue!

If you need a hook-up, I'll sell it to you at my cost.
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Old 04-29-2011, 06:50 AM   #33
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I was very close to pulling the trigger on a conversion exactly like this for my 76 motorhome built on a dodge chassis. Plenty of room, and almost a direct bolt up conversion I was told.

What stopped me was the cost vs. miles used per year. And the biggie was the generator being a gas unit. We use our generator a LOT while traveling to run our roof AC unit. By having multiple fuels it would make fuel stops a pain in the rear as the generator runs all day. The only way I would do it is if I could buy a diesel generator relatively inexpensively.
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Old 04-29-2011, 07:00 AM   #34
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Old 04-29-2011, 07:58 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by Sasquatch View Post
We use our generator a LOT while traveling to run our roof AC unit. By having multiple fuels it would make fuel stops a pain in the rear as the generator runs all day. The only way I would do it is if I could buy a diesel generator relatively inexpensively.

Yup, I was thinking the same thing, although as I recall he was converting his generator to propane. I find that we use our propane stove more and more and, of course, crank up the propane for heat in the winter. So basically that's a 2-fuel solution (diesel and propane) rather than 3 fuels (gasoline, diesel and propane) which would be a PITA to manage.
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Old 04-29-2011, 08:41 AM   #36
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Yup, I was thinking the same thing, although as I recall he was converting his generator to propane. I find that we use our propane stove more and more and, of course, crank up the propane for heat in the winter. So basically that's a 2-fuel solution (diesel and propane) rather than 3 fuels (gasoline, diesel and propane) which would be a PITA to manage.
We only use propane for the fridge, heat, and occasional cooking, so our 25 gallon tank lasts me 2-3 years of normal use.

I really wanted to do the diesel conversion, like, really badly. But I just could not see having to come up with another tank, mounting it, then when getting fuel (a hassle in a big motorhome anyway), having to move between pumps and filling multiple tanks with diesel and gas.

So I think I am just going to do the EFI conversion and call it good. Rebuilt the 440 last year and it has quite a few power upgrades. Weighing in at 14k lbs, and pulling our 4500 lbs SUV, it cruises at 65 and will pull the blues on I-84 at about 40. I need to just quit complaining and drive it.

Of course, if the OP's conversion goes smooth and gets fantastic power and economy, I may rethink things.
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Old 04-29-2011, 09:18 AM   #37
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We only use propane for the fridge, heat, and occasional cooking, so our 25 gallon tank lasts me 2-3 years of normal use.

I really wanted to do the diesel conversion, like, really badly. But I just could not see having to come up with another tank, mounting it, then when getting fuel (a hassle in a big motorhome anyway), having to move between pumps and filling multiple tanks with diesel and gas.

So I think I am just going to do the EFI conversion and call it good. Rebuilt the 440 last year and it has quite a few power upgrades. Weighing in at 14k lbs, and pulling our 4500 lbs SUV, it cruises at 65 and will pull the blues on I-84 at about 40. I need to just quit complaining and drive it.

Of course, if the OP's conversion goes smooth and gets fantastic power and economy, I may rethink things.

I forgot about the propane side for the 'fridge. Gotta keep that beer cold!
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Old 04-29-2011, 10:07 AM   #38
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If you plan on needing the gen set to run the AC unit on the rig then stay with the gas fed version. It will use a lot more fuel on propane. Figure about a gallon an hour for a 3.6 Kw gen set on propane. If you do not plan on running the AC unit on the generator get yourself a small Honda 2000 generator. That is all we use on our full time RV and it runs everything we need except the AC unit on 9/10 a gallon for about 8 to 10 hours of use. If it is hot enough to need air conditioning we go to full hookups.
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Old 04-29-2011, 12:09 PM   #39
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When stationed in Albuquerque, NM in 1990, we purchased a 28' Shasta with a 6.2 diesel motor. The noise wasn't that bad and we had a blast with it. I did have to have the left head worked on due to a water leak, but the company I got it from put new gaskets on both sides and that did the trick. I did have to get the trans replaced after a trip back to Illinois one Christmas to, but that was like $400 for the new one with a new shift module that let it rev more between shift points.

Fun times and like I said, the noise wasn't bad for one of the early Chevy 6.2 diesel motors and a lot of that was right between the driver and passenger seats.
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Old 04-29-2011, 01:58 PM   #40
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True, but I can get a new 12VDC vacuum pump for $50 to run all the HVAC stuff & cruise control. With a vehicle this size I'd rather have a more positive brake feel than the vacuum booster. It does okay, but sure seems like the right time to make it right.
There's a vacuum pump on the front of the Cummins which seemed to work pretty well in my '93.
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Old 04-29-2011, 02:02 PM   #41
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Awesome project Joz!

I don't know how the cummins diesel compares, but the International in my van is loud, but it's not that loud.
Probably won't be because the interior isn't a vast expanse of bare metal, but I feel it's my duty to pass that kind of thing along somehow. The noise in the M43 was a colossal disappointment to me.
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Old 04-29-2011, 02:30 PM   #42
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Old 04-29-2011, 03:16 PM   #43
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yep been done .

got all mine lined up to do my van when i want to..
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Old 04-29-2011, 04:58 PM   #44
tomfoolery
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Does the oil pan clear the front end? That was the problem my friend ran into when he put one in his Land Cruiser wagon. He put more lift on the land cruiser and that solved it. He also is running a non intercooled motor which made it easier to fit too.

I noticed right off that my 98 Dodge 12V diesel was louder inside than my 93 and I figure it's because in the new body style the last two cylinders are under the dash and the sound comes into the cab more.

I hope it all works good for you and I'm sure this will be a "labor of love" doing the conversion.

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Old 04-29-2011, 06:23 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by Joz View Post
Thanks! 4btswaps.com has been massively helpful already. Yes, there is a tremendous amount of information in there.
I don't know what you are planning to do for motor mounts, but I would highly recommend fabbing something to adapt the stock one to work. Using urethane bushings on a 6BT sends a lot of vibration into the chassis.

Do you know what axle is under your RV? I bet it will hold, being a E350 chassis it is at least a dana 60FF or better. If not just take the one from your truck chassis, should be a simple instal by comparison.

At the fab shop I worked at in college we did quite a few cummins swaps, and if one will fit in an H1 it'll fit in that.
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