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Old 05-16-2011, 06:42 PM   #91
koncha
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Originally Posted by seriousracer View Post
found this today on criags list in my area..

http://southbend.craigslist.org/pts/2349673033.html
You called the guy, right?
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Old 05-16-2011, 06:44 PM   #92
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You called the guy, right?
of course...
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Old 05-18-2011, 06:55 AM   #93
HellSickle
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Kudos Joz. Once you are finished with your "warm-up" project, you can do the same for my E350. I'm looking for an improvement over the 7.5mpg I got with my V-10 when fighting head winds with the toy hauler.
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Old 05-24-2011, 06:03 PM   #94
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You can find tons on info on the 6bt on the turbodiesel registry. The website is tdr1.com. Best bunch of people on the web and tons of info. I had a 12v like yours a few years ago and wished I could have put the money and time I wanted into that engine. I had the crappy Dodge auto which seriously limited my power options. So easy to get wicked high numbers from that engine. Good luck, I'm in!

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Old 05-24-2011, 11:28 PM   #95
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Old 05-25-2011, 06:38 PM   #96
NLS1
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Sweet project!
The best place for Cummins info is the Cumminsforum.com.

Good call on the 12v Cummins!

I had a 1997 F350 with a 460 and when plowing snow or towing I would get 4-6 mpg. Man that thing could suck gas

Now my 2006 Dodge 2500 Cummins gets 10-12 plowing and towing, 15 empty at 75. And the 1995 4x4 3500 Cummins gets 10-12 plowing and heavy towing as well, 16 towing a car cross country! The 3500 is loaded to 15k with plow and salter in the winter, never a complaint from the engine, just pulls! It could easily pull a skid steer like that too.

I don't know about the earlier 12v's like yours exactly, but the ones with the p7100 pump like my 95 are governed to start pulling away fuel at 2200 rpms. But you can buy new governor springs to go to 3000 or 4000 before it pulls fuel away. It could be that the older 89-93 ones are able to be modified in the same way. Regardless, yours, if stock, will start defueling pretty early on in the rpms.

If the math was done right in regards to the highway rpms, you won't have any good power above that 2200-ish rpm range without doing the necessary mods. The engine itself is more than capable of handling the rpms, but the governor will need to be modded and the valve springs are recommended to be upgraded if you want to get to 3-4000 rpms on the 12v's. Another thought is to simply buy a heavily built over drive trans from a compatible year 2wd dodge. My 95 has a nuke proofed trans and 5-disc torque converter and it handles the weight awesome. And not quite 2000rpms at 70mph.

Good luck and great project!
Dan
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Old 05-25-2011, 10:15 PM   #97
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Thanks guys. I've been doing tons of math and while that's all good a phone call tonight to the previous owner of the engine gave me more than all the internet research could.

That engine would run above 2500 RPM without complaint. Sounds like the manual transmission idea is busted - the shifter would be WAY too far back; like between the seats. Yes, I could rig up some shift linkage arrangement but that whole idea is just sounding less desirable. So now it sounds like I'm sticking with the Allison that I have and I'm now on the quest for a divorced overdrive unit. Hey - this is a work-in-progress type of project. If the automatic doesn't work out then I'll look for a different option.

I still need the RV as is until after the 5th of June. I'll probably start pulling it all apart after that weekend!

More to follow.
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Old 05-26-2011, 04:37 AM   #98
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Originally Posted by Joz View Post
Thanks guys. I've been doing tons of math and while that's all good a phone call tonight to the previous owner of the engine gave me more than all the internet research could.

That engine would run above 2500 RPM without complaint. Sounds like the manual transmission idea is busted - the shifter would be WAY too far back; like between the seats. Yes, I could rig up some shift linkage arrangement but that whole idea is just sounding less desirable. So now it sounds like I'm sticking with the Allison that I have and I'm now on the quest for a divorced overdrive unit. Hey - this is a work-in-progress type of project. If the automatic doesn't work out then I'll look for a different option.

I still need the RV as is until after the 5th of June. I'll probably start pulling it all apart after that weekend!

More to follow.
In my post above yours, I hope you knew I meant an overdrive auto trans, not a overdrive manual trans. Yeah the manual would be a nightmare in terms of fab work . And absolutely the engine would be fine strength-wise at a high rpm, its just that the power will suck since the governor will have already de-fueled a lot by 2500rpms unless you do governor spring mods.

Another thought would be to swap a Dana 70 or 80 from a Dodge from the same years as your donor truck with the super tall rear end gears. I think they were like a 3.07, or something like that. I believe they were put in with trucks with the Torqueflite 727 3spd auto. It would give you a very decent highway rpm just like it did with the TF727 trucks as they were also 1:1 final drive and meant for heavy towing. This would probably be way cheaper than a divorced reducer unit. Since you are gonna have to do the driveshaft anyhow, I wouldn't think it would be any big deal to make it work with the different diff. In fact, an entire diff swap is probably the easiest swap you are gonna do on this project!

I would be surprised in the end if your fuel economy didn't about double overall. Those early 12vs are known to be very frugal. So if you are doing 15k per year you would recoup a lot the first year.

Good luck!
Dan
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Old 05-26-2011, 06:33 AM   #99
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Another thought would be to swap a Dana 70 or 80 from a Dodge from the same years as your donor truck with the super tall rear end gears. I think they were like a 3.07, or something like that. I believe they were put in with trucks with the Torqueflite 727 3spd auto. It would give you a very decent highway rpm just like it did with the TF727 trucks as they were also 1:1 final drive and meant for heavy towing. This would probably be way cheaper than a divorced reducer unit. Since you are gonna have to do the driveshaft anyhow, I wouldn't think it would be any big deal to make it work with the different diff. In fact, an entire diff swap is probably the easiest swap you are gonna do on this project!
An advantage to the OD unit is that he gets the benefit of having the 3.55 gears from a standing start, especially if he finds himself trying to get moving on a grade. Also, depending on how the ratios work out, he could effectively have as many as 8 forward gears, should he need to take smaller bites on the gear changes when loaded. Whether the OD would tolerate being engaged and disengaged like that is another question.
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Old 05-26-2011, 10:10 AM   #100
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An advantage to the OD unit is that he gets the benefit of having the 3.55 gears from a standing start, especially if he finds himself trying to get moving on a grade. Also, depending on how the ratios work out, he could effectively have as many as 8 forward gears, should he need to take smaller bites on the gear changes when loaded. Whether the OD would tolerate being engaged and disengaged like that is another question.
Check with Gear Vendors, they have a unit that can be used as a straight OD or as a "splitter".
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Old 05-26-2011, 03:29 PM   #101
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How about zoomies on the motorhome? That move it toward the rat rod category?
I like the way you think! I wish you were my neighbor.
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Old 05-26-2011, 09:02 PM   #102
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friggin awesome!
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Old 05-26-2011, 09:20 PM   #103
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I've been in touch with Gear Vendors. They sure have the right unit but I'm hesitant about paying what they're asking. They sure have the right reputation - solid, bullet proof, reliable.

Looks like the conversion will be put off just a little longer. A buddy has talked me into using the rig as is in exchange for a brand spanking new set of tires all the way around. I think he's getting a good deal if you've looked at the cost of renting these things lately. I think I'm getting a great deal since it needs tires desperately. Sure...the tires have lots of tread but they're ancient. I can't actually tell how old they are as the date stamps are pre-2000!

That just gives me more time to figure out the transmission delima. And, yes, I really do like the idea of having a super low direct first gear as many of the places I go are a bit off the beaten path and it would be very nice to have a really low to get in and out. Then of course high gear in overdrive will keep the engine happy at highway speed (75ish).
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Old 05-26-2011, 10:27 PM   #104
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I've been in touch with Gear Vendors. They sure have the right unit but I'm hesitant about paying what they're asking. They sure have the right reputation - solid, bullet proof, reliable.
You've had this thing for how long? It sounds like you're going to keep it for at least as long as you've had it, especially since you're going to the trouble of repowering it. Unless the OD unit is 6 grand or something that's really going to put a kink in your finances, it'll be worth it to you when the conversion is all done. You'll kick yourself if you get it all buttoned up with direct drive and find that it's unhappy at any speed over 55. Wait until your buddy gets back before buying the unit, though, just in case he drops it over a cliff and there's nothing left to convert.
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Old 05-27-2011, 08:22 PM   #105
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Heck yeah! (says the obsessed)

Seriously, a donor vehicle with the same chassis would make things much more straight forward. But.... be sure to factor in all the rebuild costs of the diesel components. There's little sense to put a worn out engine, transmission, drive line, axle, etc into your RV. But that's just my opinion.
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