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Old 06-25-2012, 09:09 PM   #1591
ABYSS
KTM
 
Joined: Oct 2006
Oddometer: 1,198
two steps can fix this

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirty in all View Post
same
Removed the disk and use a DA and hit it good with 36 grit paper. you need to get the GLAZE off and also its needs to have a surface in it 36 Grit used opn a Da makes it perfect. It only takes a few minutes.

Next replace the factory metalic pads with non metalic ones.

What is happening is the metalic pads are glazing the rotor.

Once you do that Squeek will be gone for good.
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Old 06-25-2012, 10:10 PM   #1592
helotaxi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TeamJunk View Post
The stock chain lenght on the 500exc is 114 pins with 15/45 gearing, runnnig a 14/48 gearing the rear tire rubs the
the rear shock guard mud flap with stock chain lenght, I run a 116 pin chain with 14/49 gearing.
I have 14/48 gears right now with the stock chain and I'm not having an issue with the tire rubbing on the flap.
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Old 06-25-2012, 11:55 PM   #1593
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ABYSS View Post
Removed the disk and use a DA and hit it good with 36 grit paper. you need to get the GLAZE off and also its needs to have a surface in it 36 Grit used opn a Da makes it perfect. It only takes a few minutes.

Next replace the factory metalic pads with non metalic ones.

What is happening is the metalic pads are glazing the rotor.

Once you do that Squeek will be gone for good.
Cool thanks
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Old 06-26-2012, 05:51 AM   #1594
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ABYSS View Post
Removed the disk and use a DA and hit it good with 36 grit paper. you need to get the GLAZE off and also its needs to have a surface in it 36 Grit used opn a Da makes it perfect. It only takes a few minutes.

Next replace the factory metalic pads with non metalic ones.

What is happening is the metalic pads are glazing the rotor.

Once you do that Squeek will be gone for good.
cool, I'll give this a try.

What is a DA?
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Old 06-26-2012, 06:17 AM   #1595
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveO View Post
cool, I'll give this a try.

What is a DA?
Dual Action Air Sander
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Old 06-26-2012, 06:21 AM   #1596
Lulu7404
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random orbit

Quote:
Originally Posted by snow View Post
Dual Action Air Sander
Not suggesting it is a replacement, but would a random orbit electric sander work for those that don't have the compressor capacity to run a DA? Say from Porter Cable or DeWalt.
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Old 06-26-2012, 07:06 AM   #1597
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I have preformed a similar fix on the rear breaks using medium sand paper and my hand... ya know... the old way. Wrap sand paper over disk and spin tire.

The real trick I think it the right shoe material. Non metalic is the way to go...
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Old 06-26-2012, 11:15 AM   #1598
ABYSS
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any orbital sander

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lulu7404 View Post
Not suggesting it is a replacement, but would a random orbit electric sander work for those that don't have the compressor capacity to run a DA? Say from Porter Cable or DeWalt.
should work just fine
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Old 06-26-2012, 12:36 PM   #1599
helotaxi
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For those that have the HDB hand guards, how are you keeping the clutch line off the spacer that goes between the top clamp and the guard. Mine is jammed right against that bolt and I can't imagine that's going to be good long term.
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Old 06-26-2012, 12:41 PM   #1600
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Eh? Hmmm

Quote:
Originally Posted by helotaxi View Post
For those that have the HDB hand guards, how are you keeping the clutch line off the spacer that goes between the top clamp and the guard. Mine is jammed right against that bolt and I can't imagine that's going to be good long term.
I don't have that issue. Do you have a pic?
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Old 06-26-2012, 12:47 PM   #1601
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Quote:
Originally Posted by helotaxi View Post
For those that have the HDB hand guards, how are you keeping the clutch line off the spacer that goes between the top clamp and the guard. Mine is jammed right against that bolt and I can't imagine that's going to be good long term.
go under the connection, not over the connection.

Otherwise I do not know what the issue is. Pics?
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Old 06-26-2012, 02:51 PM   #1602
helotaxi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toddler View Post
go under the connection, not over the connection.

Otherwise I do not know what the issue is. Pics?
It won't fit under the fitting and I can't rotate the lever perch far enough down to clear without the fitting hitting the bar. The clutch perch is as far toward the end of the bar as I can get it without the adjuster nut hitting the switch assembly (0.5mm of clearance).

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Old 06-26-2012, 09:09 PM   #1603
avconnect
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Quote:
Originally Posted by helotaxi View Post
For those that have the HDB hand guards, how are you keeping the clutch line off the spacer that goes between the top clamp and the guard. Mine is jammed right against that bolt and I can't imagine that's going to be good long term.
I have the same issue and am looking for a solution...tried a EE clutch cable and it was a bit longer but did not solve the problem.
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Old 06-26-2012, 10:17 PM   #1604
helotaxi
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Cable length isn't the issue. The issue is that the fitting that comes out of the clutch master cylinder is straight and too long as opposed to a brake style banjo fitting. I've got a feeling that I'm going to have to switch over to and aftermarket narrow switch set that will let me slide the clutch lever perch farther out.
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Old 06-27-2012, 12:30 AM   #1605
Thumperconvert
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The SICASSracing switch is half as wide as the stocker

Quote:
Originally Posted by helotaxi View Post
Cable length isn't the issue. The issue is that the fitting that comes out of the clutch master cylinder is straight and too long as opposed to a brake style banjo fitting. I've got a feeling that I'm going to have to switch over to and aftermarket narrow switch set that will let me slide the clutch lever perch farther out.
...and allows you to tun off the headlight. I put one on my 530 after a fall destroyed the stock unit as dirt got in it. I tried for hours to clean it but it was never the same. When these bikes go down, they go down hard. I destroyed the stock throttle tube (replaced with KTM Powerparts throttle cam system) and just bent a Cycra center reach mount brush guard. That same spill broke the throttle cable plastic where it enters the throttle assembly. Expensive tumble not to mention a bruised rib. Ouch.

http://sicassracing.com/store/produc...ion_bar_switch
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