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Old 06-28-2012, 05:59 AM   #1621
avconnect
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Location: Salt Lake City
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vico1 View Post
Is the problem with the EXC or with the HDB top clamp mount.

I have no issues but I run normal bark busters and standard levers. All seem to work fine for me.

I do have a question on EXC wiring. If I use the Sicass switch will it allow me to run the bike without turning on the lights etc. I am constantly forgetting to turn off the bike when stopped. Just not use to it. I have no use or desire for a key switch.

Any suggestions?
The stock EXC obviously did not have the problem. The HDB top clamp created the problem where the clutch line runs straight into the HDB pivot. The line needs to plunge down sooner to clear. Right now, mine goes above the pivot but it is tight enough to raise concern about wear. The stock KTM switch has turn signal, high low and horn. It was too wide and deep for an aftermarket clutch lever to clear. I discovered the problem with the switch when I installed the KTM hard parts orange bling folding lever. I will try to upload pictures tonight of where I stand. I have talked with Paul at HDB about the issue and sent photos. He has not offered a solution. There is a company back in Ohio or something like that that can make a custom clutch line with cool colors (yes orange) that will solve the clearance issue. I just cannot bear to pay $100+for the thing so I am going to wait to see how the slightly longer EE clutch line wears.
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Old 06-28-2012, 06:02 AM   #1622
avconnect
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avconnect View Post
The stock EXC obviously did not have the problem. The HDB top clamp created the problem where the clutch line runs straight into the HDB pivot. The line needs to plunge down sooner to clear. Right now, mine goes above the pivot but it is tight enough to raise concern about wear. The stock KTM switch has turn signal, high low and horn. It was too wide and deep for an aftermarket clutch lever to clear. I discovered the problem with the switch when I installed the KTM hard parts orange bling folding lever. I will try to upload pictures tonight of where I stand. I have talked with Paul at HDB about the issue and sent photos. He has not offered a solution. There is a company back in Ohio or something like that that can make a custom clutch line with cool colors (yes orange) that will solve the clearance issue. I just cannot bear to pay $100+for the thing so I am going to wait to see how the slightly longer EE clutch line wears.
And yes, you can eliminate the key withoutconcernfor the battery. Also, their is an off position on the headlight switch for the Sicass switch. I have the Baja Squadron insert so it only works on high beam.
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Old 06-28-2012, 06:28 AM   #1623
helotaxi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ABYSS View Post
Have any of you looked into making a different Clutch line instead of having to mess with the wiring? It would be alot cheaper and faster.
I've though about it. Do you know if the clutch MC is threaded for a standard brake banjo bolt? If so, it should be a simple matter to replace the factory line and its inline fitting with a normal brake line of the correct length. It looks like a standard fitting on the clutch end.
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Old 06-28-2012, 06:56 AM   #1624
ABYSS
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hmm

Quote:
Originally Posted by avconnect View Post
The stock EXC obviously did not have the problem. The HDB top clamp created the problem where the clutch line runs straight into the HDB pivot. The line needs to plunge down sooner to clear. Right now, mine goes above the pivot but it is tight enough to raise concern about wear. The stock KTM switch has turn signal, high low and horn. It was too wide and deep for an aftermarket clutch lever to clear. I discovered the problem with the switch when I installed the KTM hard parts orange bling folding lever. I will try to upload pictures tonight of where I stand. I have talked with Paul at HDB about the issue and sent photos. He has not offered a solution. There is a company back in Ohio or something like that that can make a custom clutch line with cool colors (yes orange) that will solve the clearance issue. I just cannot bear to pay $100+for the thing so I am going to wait to see how the slightly longer EE clutch line wears.
Quote:
Originally Posted by helotaxi View Post
I've though about it. Do you know if the clutch MC is threaded for a standard brake banjo bolt? If so, it should be a simple matter to replace the factory line and its inline fitting with a normal brake line of the correct length. It looks like a standard fitting on the clutch end.
I dont know what the thread pitch on the bolt is and if a typical banjo will fit but,

Id be willing to bet in ANY industrial town inthe USA you can get a new Clutch line made any way you want , Howedver the Orange may be hard to come by
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Old 06-28-2012, 07:31 AM   #1625
theantipaul
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Hey Guys, I'm looking into the problem, not having an EXC but an XCW I didn't see or fully understand the problem. I'll pull mine apart and try and emulate the switchgear issue with my bike, see what I can do to minimize the problem without it cascading into buying more parts on your end.

Is this a good representation of how far away the clutch perch is on the EXC?




Do we have any other issues I need to look into? Let me know.
Thanks, Paul
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Old 06-28-2012, 09:29 AM   #1626
helotaxi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theantipaul View Post
Hey Guys, I'm looking into the problem, not having an EXC but an XCW I didn't see or fully understand the problem. I'll pull mine apart and try and emulate the switchgear issue with my bike, see what I can do to minimize the problem without it cascading into buying more parts on your end.

Is this a good representation of how far away the clutch perch is on the EXC?




Do we have any other issues I need to look into? Let me know.
Thanks, Paul
His is a little close. I posted a pic earlier that shows where it is when the adjuster knob still clears the switch housing. The design is flawed on KTM's part. With full length levers and the knob clearing the housing, you can only get 2 fingers on the clutch lever. The clutch is light enough that it isn't much of an issue, but it is wrong in principle. I'm probably replacing the clutch line with one that has a banjo, rather than inline, fitting and I'm looking for a plug and play switch assembly that is nice and compact, but that is seconday at this point.
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Old 06-28-2012, 09:35 AM   #1627
helotaxi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ABYSS View Post
Id be willing to bet in ANY industrial town inthe USA you can get a new Clutch line made any way you want , Howedver the Orange may be hard to come by
Possibly, but here in BFE, getting anything made is nearly impossible. Orange...meh. Functional, there's the important part.
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Old 06-28-2012, 11:48 AM   #1628
avconnect
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theantipaul View Post
Hey Guys, I'm looking into the problem, not having an EXC but an XCW I didn't see or fully understand the problem. I'll pull mine apart and try and emulate the switchgear issue with my bike, see what I can do to minimize the problem without it cascading into buying more parts on your end.

Is this a good representation of how far away the clutch perch is on the EXC?




Do we have any other issues I need to look into? Let me know.
Thanks, Paul
Paul: the main issue is not the stock clutch lever clearing the switch housing, it clears it just fine in stock form. I changed my lever to the KTM hard parts folding lever and that is when the clearance issue arose. The bigger issue is where the clutch line runs into the HDB swivel. The attachment portion of the line is too rigid and too straight for too long such that it runs straight into the swivel. If you go over the top it is in the way and not long enough. If you go below the swivel it's really stressed and will prematurely wear. The dealer that installed my longer EE clutch line took a creative approach that was clearly not acceptable but the photo below demonstrates the problem.

I have re-routed the cable but the clearance problem persists.
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Old 06-28-2012, 12:12 PM   #1629
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lulu7404 View Post
I am in the same boat.
I can see this being an issue but, since the clutch line is the only control line that does not move independent of the handlebar that it is connected to, why would there be wear?
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Old 06-28-2012, 12:16 PM   #1630
ABYSS
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ok

Quote:
Originally Posted by cross-country View Post
I can see this being an issue but, since the clutch line is the only control line that does not move independent of the handlebar that it is connected to, why would there be wear?

Has anyone removed the boot and put a tubing bender to it to see t it could be "Adjusted down" ?
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Old 06-28-2012, 12:33 PM   #1631
helotaxi
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Originally Posted by cross-country View Post
I can see this being an issue but, since the clutch line is the only control line that does not move independent of the handlebar that it is connected to, why would there be wear?
Bar flex. Vibration. And I don't see why the clutch is different from the brake with regard to how it moves.

Paul, maybe just make a note on the website and offer a solution. The switch housing you offer with the correct plugs to make it plug-and-play would be great. I certainly don't feel you should go to extraordinary lengths to address this. $40 or thereabouts isn't that big of a deal at this point and it would put the clutch lever where it should have been in the first place thus resolving the original design flaw that is driving the clearance problem on the pivot. BTW, it isn't limited to aftermarket levers forcing the clutch perch to be moved inboard. I have the factory levers.

Abyss, looking at the fiche it appears that the fitting leaves nothing to bend. I'd really like to know if the MC uses a standard brake thread pitch and I'd also like to know without having to pull it all apart myself and then have the bike sit while the new parts are on order or put it back and go through the hassle of bleeding the thing twice. If anyone just happens to know the answer to that question...

helotaxi screwed with this post 06-28-2012 at 12:39 PM
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Old 06-28-2012, 12:45 PM   #1632
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Quote:
Originally Posted by helotaxi View Post
Bar flex. Vibration. And I don't see why the clutch is different from the brake with regard to how it moves.
Because the brake line moves independent of the bar, the clutch line does not. At least it does not have to until after it moves past the spot we are concerned with, where the brake line must move (in relation to the bar) all the way up to the perch. The frame does not wear a hole in the line, why would this? I think the line will wear into the aluminium, but not the other way around.
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Old 06-28-2012, 12:54 PM   #1633
ABYSS
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If the

Quote:
Originally Posted by cross-country View Post
Because the brake line moves independent of the bar, the clutch line does not, until after it moves past the spot we are concerned with. The frame does not wear a hole in the line, why would this? Know what I mean, plus I think the line will wear into the aluminium, but not the other way around.

Issue is ONLY wear wrap it with spiral wrap and be done.

However several have said functionality is the problem well that is a whole different issue.

I dont think Paul needs to offer a solution he does not sell anything model specific nor states such either. The only spec is the hole dimmensions.
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Old 06-28-2012, 01:13 PM   #1634
theantipaul
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ABYSS View Post
Has anyone removed the boot and put a tubing bender to it to see t it could be "Adjusted down" ?
Here's what it looks like with the boot off,



It's extremely flexible right up to the last fitting



There appear to be 2 fittings the one that goes to the reservoir look like you could use a banjo, then there's a reducer.



If there was a single fitting you could buy some room for a bigger radius, or if there was a 45deg to be had.

The easiest to try might be to rotate the lever down, I run mine a bit tilted down because it feels better when I stand, but that's a preference thing, so it's not a solution. With the boot on there and the line as flexible as it is, I think if you made as the bend as reasonably big as possible it should be alright and provide some strain relief. I'll play with it more.

Let me know what you think.
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Old 06-28-2012, 01:48 PM   #1635
helotaxi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theantipaul View Post
The easiest to try might be to rotate the lever down, I run mine a bit tilted down because it feels better when I stand, but that's a preference thing, so it's not a solution. With the boot on there and the line as flexible as it is, I think if you made as the bend as reasonably big as possible it should be alright and provide some strain relief. I'll play with it more.
Because of the way the clutch master cylinder is designed with that silly protuberance sticking out the end, as far inboard as the perch needs to be with the stock switch housing, the perch cannot be rotated down without the "donkey dick", for lack of a better term, hitting the bar bend. Like I said, bad design on KTM's part. If the clutch line can be replaced with a normal brake line, that part of the problem is solved. Simply use a line with a 45 or 90 degree banjo fitting to keep it tucked behind the handguard and you'll have enough offset to clear the pivot. But that still leaves the root problem which is the bloated stock switch housing.
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