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Old 06-28-2012, 01:59 PM   #1636
ABYSS
KTM
 
Joined: Oct 2006
Oddometer: 1,198
If you are changing the line

Quote:
Originally Posted by helotaxi View Post
Because of the way the clutch master cylinder is designed with that silly protuberance sticking out the end, as far inboard as the perch needs to be with the stock switch housing, the perch cannot be rotated down without the "donkey dick", for lack of a better term, hitting the bar bend. Like I said, bad design on KTM's part. If the clutch line can be replaced with a normal brake line, that part of the problem is solved. Simply use a line with a 45 or 90 degree banjo fitting to keep it tucked behind the handguard and you'll have enough offset to clear the pivot. But that still leaves the root problem which is the bloated stock switch housing.
Why not just swamp the locations of the switch and res. and put the new line on?
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Old 06-28-2012, 02:05 PM   #1637
helotaxi
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Ummm, you lost me. You mean mount the switch housing inboard of the clutch perch? If that's what you're talking about, it won't work because the cylinder itself has a section sticking out of the end and the switch housing won't clear that for certain.
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Old 06-28-2012, 05:48 PM   #1638
ABYSS
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Joined: Oct 2006
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ssorry man

Quote:
Originally Posted by helotaxi View Post
Ummm, you lost me. You mean mount the switch housing inboard of the clutch perch? If that's what you're talking about, it won't work because the cylinder itself has a section sticking out of the end and the switch housing won't clear that for certain.
I am not near my bike to look I thought from what I was reading that with the fitting removed it would be flush with the resovior. if that was the case then all you would have to do is a reverse 90 banjo fitting and you are golden.
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Old 06-28-2012, 06:47 PM   #1639
helotaxi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ABYSS View Post
I am not near my bike to look I thought from what I was reading that with the fitting removed it would be flush with the resovior. if that was the case then all you would have to do is a reverse 90 banjo fitting and you are golden.
If you look at the pic that Paul posted with the dust boot off, all the black is part of the master cylinder. It accounts for about half of what's under the boot.
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Old 06-29-2012, 05:04 AM   #1640
Lulu7404
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MY issue

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Originally Posted by theantipaul View Post
Hey Guys, I'm looking into the problem, not having an EXC but an XCW I didn't see or fully understand the problem. I'll pull mine apart and try and emulate the switchgear issue with my bike, see what I can do to minimize the problem without it cascading into buying more parts on your end.

Is this a good representation of how far away the clutch perch is on the EXC?




Do we have any other issues I need to look into? Let me know.
Thanks, Paul
I agree, Paul needs to fix nothing. My issue in the picture above is that the lever still isn't where I would "LIKE" to have it position wise. But, if I go more inboard it will hit the lever itself and if I take it more outboard, which would fix the line hitting the guard, the adjustment knob hits the switch. Same happens if I move the switch inboard or out.
It was just a matter of all of murphys stars lining up perfectly for me... that is where I like the lever to hit my hand... almost.
I think the sicass or Pauls switch will fix it and allow me to put the lever where I am comfortable. Pitch is also an issue, as I try to stand as much as possible off road and don't like to extend my wrist too far. In the picture, you can see a rather large, bulge, where my lever hits as I engage the clutch. This is due to rotating the lever/clutch m/c, down for comfort. I leave in 3 hours for Ouray and since I won't need to reach my horn or blinkers (i commute on bike everyday) without needing to look for them, I am going to rotate the switch module and see if that allows full lever pull.
And thanks Paul, for the effort. Class act.
I wish all the 500 owners could meet up in the San Juans this week.... maybe in the future...
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Old 06-29-2012, 05:37 AM   #1641
ABYSS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lulu7404 View Post
I agree, Paul needs to fix nothing. My issue in the picture above is that the lever still isn't where I would "LIKE" to have it position wise. But, if I go more inboard it will hit the lever itself and if I take it more outboard, which would fix the line hitting the guard, the adjustment knob hits the switch. Same happens if I move the switch inboard or out.
It was just a matter of all of murphys stars lining up perfectly for me... that is where I like the lever to hit my hand... almost.
I think the sicass or Pauls switch will fix it and allow me to put the lever where I am comfortable. Pitch is also an issue, as I try to stand as much as possible off road and don't like to extend my wrist too far. In the picture, you can see a rather large, bulge, where my lever hits as I engage the clutch. This is due to rotating the lever/clutch m/c, down for comfort. I leave in 3 hours for Ouray and since I won't need to reach my horn or blinkers (i commute on bike everyday) without needing to look for them, I am going to rotate the switch module and see if that allows full lever pull.
And thanks Paul, for the effort. Class act.
I wish all the 500 owners could meet up in the San Juans this week.... maybe in the future...
hey man be safe are you going up this week and also for RMAR?
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Old 06-29-2012, 06:13 AM   #1642
avconnect
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lulu7404 View Post
I agree, Paul needs to fix nothing. My issue in the picture above is that the lever still isn't where I would "LIKE" to have it position wise. But, if I go more inboard it will hit the lever itself and if I take it more outboard, which would fix the line hitting the guard, the adjustment knob hits the switch. Same happens if I move the switch inboard or out.
It was just a matter of all of murphys stars lining up perfectly for me... that is where I like the lever to hit my hand... almost.
I think the sicass or Pauls switch will fix it and allow me to put the lever where I am comfortable. Pitch is also an issue, as I try to stand as much as possible off road and don't like to extend my wrist too far. In the picture, you can see a rather large, bulge, where my lever hits as I engage the clutch. This is due to rotating the lever/clutch m/c, down for comfort. I leave in 3 hours for Ouray and since I won't need to reach my horn or blinkers (i commute on bike everyday) without needing to look for them, I am going to rotate the switch module and see if that allows full lever pull.
And thanks Paul, for the effort. Class act.
I wish all the 500 owners could meet up in the San Juans this week.... maybe in the future...
The lever clearance Robles can be temporarily resolved by rotating the switch. However, that is not a long term solution IMHO. A different switch will solve it. I agree that the clutch lever issue is not Paul's responsibility to fix and he is a class act.

However, the clutch cable clearance issue is a different issue. Depending on which HDB top clamp you use you will have problems. Paul does not necessarily need to find a solution but should probably disclose the issue to potential purchasers and if we find a different clutch cable that fixes the issue (longer and a different connection at the master cylinder) he should tell folks about that cable or sell it through his website. My earlier representation about Paul was true but not necessarily critical. I spoke with him about the cable issue and sent several pictures at his request in the hope he would lend his expertise to the problem. I never heard back from him but I was probably the first and only person to point it out at the time and I know Paul is very busy. Paul was very accommodating and helpful on other custom requirements and my earlier statement in this forum that Paul is the Bomb remains the case despite my concerns about the cable clearance issue which arises when you use the HDB guards and certain top clamps. I will post more photos when I can get to my computer. The photos will show the cable clearance problem with both the stock cable and the EE cable which is longer and helps lessen but does not eliminate the problem.
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Old 06-29-2012, 07:56 AM   #1643
avconnect
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avconnect View Post
The lever clearance Robles can be temporarily resolved by rotating the switch. However, that is not a long term solution IMHO. A different switch will solve it. I agree that the clutch lever issue is not Paul's responsibility to fix and he is a class act.

However, the clutch cable clearance issue is a different issue. Depending on which HDB top clamp you use you will have problems. Paul does not necessarily need to find a solution but should probably disclose the issue to potential purchasers and if we find a different clutch cable that fixes the issue (longer and a different connection at the master cylinder) he should tell folks about that cable or sell it through his website. My earlier representation about Paul was true but not necessarily critical. I spoke with him about the cable issue and sent several pictures at his request in the hope he would lend his expertise to the problem. I never heard back from him but I was probably the first and only person to point it out at the time and I know Paul is very busy. Paul was very accommodating and helpful on other custom requirements and my earlier statement in this forum that Paul is the Bomb remains the case despite my concerns about the cable clearance issue which arises when you use the HDB guards and certain top clamps. I will post more photos when I can get to my computer. The photos will show the cable clearance problem with both the stock cable and the EE cable which is longer and helps lessen but does not eliminate the problem.
Here are some photos of the stock cable clearance issue. It is really tight and I am convinced it would wear over time. I have since replaced this cable with an EE cable which is longer. The problem largely remains but the extra length of the EE cable helps take some tension off. The second photo shows the wire loom under the cable. That is not how I left it and the wire loom now drops below the pivot and bar but the stock cable was just too tight. You can see the tension in the cable as it turns down. I will post a photo of the current setup tonight with the EE cable installed.

[IMG][/IMG]
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Old 06-29-2012, 07:59 AM   #1644
ABYSS
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Question

I have a question for you. If you were able to replace the cable do you think you could have got one with a banjo fitting and put inline 90 digree fitting the on it so it would lower the cable down below the top triple clamp? Or how about two 45s or 2 90's to lower the fitting below the top triple clamp.

Again this is not a criticism just a question?
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Old 06-29-2012, 08:20 AM   #1645
Lulu7404
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not going to RMAR

Quote:
Originally Posted by ABYSS View Post
hey man be safe are you going up this week and also for RMAR?
Unfortunately the DR lady at work will be out of town that week, so I have to see all of her patients. I wanted to, even booked an RV spot, but had to cancel.
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Old 06-29-2012, 08:22 AM   #1646
ABYSS
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ouch

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lulu7404 View Post
Unfortunately the DR lady at work will be out of town that week, so I have to see all of her patients. I wanted to, even booked an RV spot, but had to cancel.

sorry man I feel your pain. I wanted to go as well but work was not permitting. Heading up to CO at the end of August
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Old 06-29-2012, 08:54 AM   #1647
helotaxi
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It looks like that Woods high bend bar has helped him out a good bit compared to where I am.

I'm pretty sure that if the master cylinder is threaded correctly, a banjo style brake line will solve all the problems of cable clearance.
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Old 06-29-2012, 09:46 AM   #1648
rtadlock
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Just picked one of these bad boys up. Obviously it needs a skid plate. What skid plates are people running? Any thoughts on one that people prefer?
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Old 06-29-2012, 09:55 AM   #1649
helotaxi
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Originally Posted by rtadlock View Post
Just picked one of these bad boys up. Obviously it needs a skid plate. What skid plates are people running? Any thoughts on one that people prefer?
It seems that the KTM Hard Parts models (both aluminum and polymer QD), Flatland Racing and Enduro Engineering are all pretty popular. I have the Flatland and it works well but is a real PITA to install by yourself. A second set of hands is a real plus.
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Old 06-29-2012, 09:57 AM   #1650
Stifdickerson2006
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Originally Posted by rtadlock View Post
Just picked one of these bad boys up. Obviously it needs a skid plate. What skid plates are people running? Any thoughts on one that people prefer?
I just received and installed my skid plate from globetrottin.com and am very happy with the biuld of it and the design, I have not truly tested it out yet, but I do not think there is going to be any issues, it is very stout! Here is the link for it
http://shop.globetrottin.com/product...&categoryId=33
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