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Old 07-22-2012, 04:50 PM   #1936
AussieClay
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Joined: Feb 2012
Location: Houston Texas / Melbourne Australia
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EXC Unlocked Map Installed

Quote:
Originally Posted by ABYSS View Post
the poor guy had his ECU remapped by the dealer twice and piad for it both times then read on here about it autoresetting and the third time he insisted to watch theprocess and did begining to end he saw them load the map and then they tested it it worked , then he had them reset the bike and then check the map and sure enough it was reset back to the original. His dealer was unaware of this and called and verified this to be true. The refunded both remap's to him and then that is when the rest of the research started for him.

I managed to get out for a ride today. I can happily say, so far the 2013 unlocked map has made this a completely different bike for the better. I am amazed at the difference. The bike is solid from idle all the way through to top end and no longer feels lack-lustre. I then installed the 'WILD' sickass plug and there was significantly more top end. The performance is more like my KX450f was. Will leave the 14 on front and have a 48t coming for the back to replace the 45t. Had the JD unit still installed so will try next time without it to see if it makes much of a difference with the unlocked map and wild plug installed. Very happy with the result. Day and night compared to the standard map performance.

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Old 07-22-2012, 09:28 PM   #1937
avconnect
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AussieClay View Post
I managed to get out for a ride today. I can happily say, so far the 2013 unlocked map has made this a completely different bike for the better. I am amazed at the difference. The bike is solid from idle all the way through to top end and no longer feels lack-lustre. I then installed the 'WILD' sickass plug and there was significantly more top end. The performance is more like my KX450f was. Will leave the 14 on front and have a 48t coming for the back to replace the 45t. Had the JD unit still installed so will try next time without it to see if it makes much of a difference with the unlocked map and wild plug installed. Very happy with the result. Day and night compared to the standard map performance.

I have read so many conflicting reports about locked ECUs and re-mapping that I no longer know what to believe. At this point I am to inclined to believe it can be done unless KTM or a dealer can prove it.
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Old 07-22-2012, 11:23 PM   #1938
Cyberg
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Well I know for a fact that my dealer changed mine as I watched him do it. And the bike runs flawless with no smog and a FMF muffler.
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Old 07-23-2012, 02:07 AM   #1939
thedesertdalton
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyberg View Post
Well I know for a fact that my dealer changed mine as I watched him do it. And the bike runs flawless with no smog and a FMF muffler.
Same here.

Because of emission rules in the EU the bikes come with only 14Kw from the factory and has many restrictors in it (Intake, Header / Muffler.

Therefore the dealer here has the mapping to put it full power, takes about 10 minutes for programming, after that the engine must run idle for 15 minutes to set itself..

The 500 punches out so much power at low rev's, our dakar bikes are now on 15/48 gearing...
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Old 07-23-2012, 12:13 PM   #1940
teambft
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Valve specs and adjust identical to the 350xc?

Are the specs and procedure identical?
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Old 07-23-2012, 02:03 PM   #1941
TeamJunk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AussieClay View Post
Do you have any installed photos?
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Old 07-23-2012, 04:22 PM   #1942
500excguy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by helotaxi View Post
That's exactly what I said. It was easier for me to order mine rather than go to the dealer though because the closest dealer is 80 miles away. Cost me more in gas than the parts cost.
I live in British Columbia. I tried to get the parts from an XCW and was told that they were not bolts that I could order! Also, the only stuff that came in my PDI package was a different bolt for the kickstand so that it doesn't try to fold up all the time, and a couple of 6mm bolts.

I removed all the stock emissions stuff, and blocked it off with the $25 kit from Blaisracing. I have a JD fuel tuner that I am about to install. It comes with a setting for improved torque if you remove the end cap from the stock exhaust...I haven't installed it yet because I really want to be able to compare it with stock.

I changed gearing to 14:50, and added an Enduro Engineering rear inner fender, and flush-mount l.e.d. signals. Up front I installed handguards on my Fastway barkbusters that have l.e.d. signals built in to them.

I am just going to put Fastway pegs on it, and the BRP triple clamp and bar mounts from my 300xcw, along with my Scotts stabilizer.

***NOTE TO 2013 purchasers!!!! At one hour, the fuel line right off of the tank blew! Spewed fuel out of a pinprick hole in the hose! I called the dealer, and he had just that morning received the same complaint from another customer. It took a couple of days to get a replacement hose (and the stock hose clamps are on backorder......). Looks like there might be a recall on the 2013's. Just keep it in mind if you intend to take your new 2013 500 EXC deep into an area that you can't walk out of........******

Paul
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Old 07-23-2012, 05:00 PM   #1943
Vico1
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Location: Ft Walton Beach FL
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new 2013 issues.

I have a 2012 500EXC no fuel line issues.

Friend picked up new 2013 450 XC-W and had the same fuel line leak issue. He caught it in time and replaced line BEFORE we went on 100 miler... bike is awseome...

He says he has a switch for mild and wild and it make a difference.... I havent ridden it yet so cant comment.

He also said dealer (who preps bike for national riders) warn againt OEM oil filler cap. Highly recommends metal one or bling to protect engine. Says they get brittle and break or back out and you loose oil...
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Old 07-23-2012, 05:10 PM   #1944
robmeoff
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Fork springs and oil level

Im just about to fit up some new springs front and rear but have a couple of questions for the forks.
what is the oil level in the fork supposed to be?
Having not done a fork for probably 20 years all i remember is to lift the bike off the deck, undo the tripple clamp around the top of the fork, undo the fork top nut, fish around with a hook and pull the spring out, drop the new one in and add a bit of oil that would have come out on the spring?
is that the correct way?
Anyone know of a service manual i can download? fork spring replacement guide?

Cheers, Rob
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Old 07-23-2012, 06:03 PM   #1945
Nomad
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Location: Virginia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vico1 View Post

He also said dealer (who preps bike for national riders) warn againt OEM oil filler cap. Highly recommends metal one or bling to protect engine. Says they get brittle and break or back out and you loose oil...
I've been lurking here for a while but never posted. awesome amount of information! just picked up my first ktm earlier this month and absolutely love the thing!



my dealer said the exact same thing though about the oil fill cap and went ahead and installed one of the bling caps for me. I can see where having one of the plastic caps could be the end to a good days ride probably out in the middle of nowhere! I'd definitely recommend the metal cap!



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Old 07-23-2012, 07:56 PM   #1946
SteveO
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Trailtech Dash light indicators

I've been meaning to get this video up for a while.

While tinkering around with the TrailTech Dashlight indicators, I noticed that the Fuel gauge makes a "gradual" increase in brightness when the fuel is low. I've attempted to used an LED instead of the bulb, but just haven't been able to get it to work right. Here is a short 10 second video showing how the light gradually increases when low fuel is an issue.


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Old 07-23-2012, 10:29 PM   #1947
Zuber
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robmeoff View Post
Im just about to fit up some new springs front and rear but have a couple of questions for the forks.
what is the oil level in the fork supposed to be?
Having not done a fork for probably 20 years all i remember is to lift the bike off the deck, undo the tripple clamp around the top of the fork, undo the fork top nut, fish around with a hook and pull the spring out, drop the new one in and add a bit of oil that would have come out on the spring?
is that the correct way?
Anyone know of a service manual i can download? fork spring replacement guide?

Cheers, Rob
The standard setting is 110mm (edit) oil level with the springs out and the forks compressed. (Edit) Oil level range is 90-120mm. You can pull the springs out the top and swap them without touching the oil. You'll need a thin wrench to break the lock nut. You'll also need a pin wrench to loosen the fork cap, available from Motion Pro. You must loosen the upper clamp before trying to remove the cap.

Your dealer can give you a printout of the stock fork and shock settings. This also includes required springs for different rider weight. Forks Springs> Stock 0.44 kg/mm springs are for 75-85kg rider. 0.46 kg for a 85-95kg.
Shock Springs> Stock 7.2 kg/mm spring for 75-85kg rider. 7.6kg for 85-95kg.

I'd recommend that you change the rear spring only, unless you are over 115kg (250 lbs) or are a very aggressive rider.

Order the Race Tech Suspension Bible for step by step procedures with pictures. $25 on Amazon.
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Zuber screwed with this post 07-24-2012 at 11:20 AM
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Old 07-23-2012, 10:36 PM   #1948
Zuber
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedesertdalton View Post
Same here.

Therefore the dealer here has the mapping to put it full power, takes about 10 minutes for programming, after that the engine must run idle for 15 minutes to set itself..

.
I need to kill this rumor right now. The 500 fuel injection does NOT need the 15min idle. There is a mistake in the KTM documentation. The 15min idle only applies to the LC8 Twins fuel injection. If you let this bike idle for that long it will over heat and still won't be ready.

You only need to start the bike and ride it. Once it warms up and hits full throttle and full RPM for the first time, she's ready to roll. Same for all the Keihin single FI systems.
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Zuber screwed with this post 07-23-2012 at 10:45 PM
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Old 07-23-2012, 10:51 PM   #1949
Zuber
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teambft View Post
Valve specs and adjust identical to the 350xc? Are the specs and procedure identical?
No, the 500 is vastly easier than the 350 twin cam.
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Zuber screwed with this post 07-23-2012 at 11:09 PM
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Old 07-24-2012, 03:55 AM   #1950
Grunthunter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ABYSS
"the poor guy had his ECU remapped by the dealer twice and piad for it both times then read on here about it autoresetting and the third time he insisted to watch theprocess and did begining to end he saw them load the map and then they tested it it worked , then he had them reset the bike and then check the map and sure enough it was reset back to the original. His dealer was unaware of this and called and verified this to be true. The refunded both remap's to him and then that is when the rest of the research started for him."

This sounds like a faulty ECU chip set
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