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Old 07-29-2012, 05:25 PM   #1996
pitbull doug
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stu View Post
You do have a valid point worth considering. If you have enough line the kink is not a factor and I would have that. If you have enough line you will have to have some way to restrict the line so it does not get caught by bushes. I will just relocate it with nylon ties.

Stu
Yeah when you get your new ride check it out as with a larger radius line to eliminate kinking, then you make it vulnerable,you could zipty as you say, but kinda hacky, when you get your bike and check the real estate parameters that that you have to work with which ain't much you will see. But if you come to a fix please PM me, hopefully a aftermarket high pressure replacement hose will become available? That would be happening eh! Cheers bottoms up!
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Old 07-29-2012, 05:46 PM   #1997
SteveO
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Anybody know how difficult it is to replace valve shims? I just measured my valve play and noted that exhaust were right in spec, but the intakes were off. The right side (kickstand side) measured .15mm, and the left measured .13mm. .15mm is still in spec, but at the high end.

It appears the valves should be easy to adjust..... couple of locking nuts on top and slide out the arm....but, i could be wrong......

Any ideas?
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Old 07-29-2012, 06:44 PM   #1998
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Originally Posted by SteveO View Post
Anybody know how difficult it is to replace valve shims? I just measured my valve play and noted that exhaust were right in spec, but the intakes were off. The right side (kickstand side) measured .15mm, and the left measured .13mm. .15mm is still in spec, but at the high end.

It appears the valves should be easy to adjust..... couple of locking nuts on top and slide out the arm....but, i could be wrong......

Any ideas?
Never mind, seems I'll answer my own question.....

I did some searching and came across this thread, which does a pretty nice job of explaining the process...

http://paochow.com/forum/index.php?topic=40.0
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Old 07-29-2012, 08:34 PM   #1999
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Originally Posted by SteveO View Post
Never mind, seems I'll answer my own question.....

I did some searching and came across this thread, which does a pretty nice job of explaining the process...

http://paochow.com/forum/index.php?topic=40.0
Don't pull the rocker arms to adjust the valves. Read farther down to the reply about pulling the cam. It's easy that way.
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Old 07-30-2012, 05:02 AM   #2000
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Originally Posted by Zuber View Post
Don't pull the rocker arms to adjust the valves. Read farther down to the reply about pulling the cam. It's easy that way.
Cool, thanks for the tip.
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Old 07-30-2012, 07:27 AM   #2001
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zuber View Post
Don't pull the rocker arms to adjust the valves. Read farther down to the reply about pulling the cam. It's easy that way.
Any reason you couldn't just push the valve down manualy and suck the shim out with a magnet? If done this on other shim-over KTM's before.
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Old 07-30-2012, 07:39 AM   #2002
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Originally Posted by cross-country View Post
Any reason you couldn't just push the valve down manualy and suck the shim out with a magnet? If done this on other shim-over KTM's before.
What did you use to push the valve down.....compress the valve spring?
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Old 07-30-2012, 08:15 AM   #2003
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What did you use to push the valve down.....compress the valve spring?
A forked piece of metal. I have some old tool that looks like a prybar with a forked end on it, I suppose you could just use a large screwdriver though.

Without prying on anything, I pushed down on the retainer/spring cap. It didn't take much. Putting them back in is a little harder, helps to have three hands.
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Old 07-30-2012, 10:31 AM   #2004
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What did your 500 do over the weekend?

Me - Yanked the little 17's for the dirt setup. I have the swap down to about 25-30 min.



Took it for a rip with the guys in Ocala National Forest. Did everything from hard pack to sugar sand to single track to flooded jeep trails. Real hot this time of year. The bike did great, About done with the stock knobbie. Starting to think about what I want to replace it with?
No pix of the action till the GoPro guys do thier thing. I did take a "dirty" pix in the back yard before the bath.

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Old 07-30-2012, 10:48 AM   #2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colemanfu View Post
Me - Yanked the little 17's for the dirt setup. I have the swap down to about 25-30 min.



Took it for a rip with the guys in Ocala National Forest. Did everything from hard pack to sugar sand to single track to flooded jeep trails. Real hot this time of year. The bike did great, About done with the stock knobbie. Starting to think about what I want to replace it with?
No pix of the action till the GoPro guys do thier thing. I did take a "dirty" pix in the back yard before the bath.



My vote woudl be for a michellin Ac-10 rear and a michellin Desert front. I really liek this combo and they hold up pretty well.
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Old 07-30-2012, 12:35 PM   #2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colemanfu View Post

i know i'm not much help on the tires but...
what rear rack is that? anybody else know of any good rear racks that they've had some experience with?
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Old 07-30-2012, 12:52 PM   #2007
ABYSS
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Originally Posted by NomadChad View Post
i know i'm not much help on the tires but...
what rear rack is that? anybody else know of any good rear racks that they've had some experience with?
They are the best on the market,"For there size" calll Brett at PMB his number is 208-466-4762
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Old 07-30-2012, 01:51 PM   #2008
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They are the best on the market,"For there size" calll Brett at PMB his number is 208-466-4762
I hope the rack is designed better than their kick-stand....
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Old 07-30-2012, 02:06 PM   #2009
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You're the only person who seems to have any problems with them? Mine works great.
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Old 07-30-2012, 02:20 PM   #2010
jar944
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveO View Post
I hope the rack is designed better than their kick-stand....
I have 3 of the stands.. no issues with them, in fact I think they are fantastic.
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