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Old 09-15-2012, 04:04 PM   #2401
jesusgatos
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LukasM View Post
I assume Jesusgatos is talking about the (old) Talon hubs, they used small donut shaped rubber dampers and several people have reported that they wear out very quickly.

However I have just recently heard from somebody with a 500 that bought a set of new Talon supermoto wheels and apparently the rubber dampers on his are pie shaped like the KTM/RAD/Haan ones. So maybe they have now changed to the proven design as well?
Yeah, it's just something that I've seen posts about here and there. At least a few times here on ADV. Here's one.
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Old 09-15-2012, 05:42 PM   #2402
DaveRMS
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Battery required?

Hi,

Some bikes, like my 525, do not need a battery to run. It can be kick/push started and run fine with the battery removed. Other bikes, like the 950SE definitely need their battery just to run. I know this because I had to give my battery to a 950SE rider once when his R/R died.

So, question is... does the new 500 motor need its battery to run? Can it power the fuel pump and ignition directly off the stator?

Anyone try this yet?

Dave
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Old 09-16-2012, 07:37 PM   #2403
teambft
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSNorCal View Post
Hi,

Some bikes, like my 525, do not need a battery to run. It can be kick/push started and run fine with the battery removed. Other bikes, like the 950SE definitely need their battery just to run. I know this because I had to give my battery to a 950SE rider once when his R/R died.

So, question is... does the new 500 motor need its battery to run? Can it power the fuel pump and ignition directly off the stator?

Anyone try this yet?

Dave
I was wondering the same thing. A guy on ADV hooked up a capacitor to his Husky TE that allowed it to run off the stator. I dont believe the 500 will.....Not certain. I've been carrying some of those small cycle jumper cables in my tail pack just in case.

Here is the post for that guy with the Husky:

See post #23402 and 23423
http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...6429&page=1562

Here's his video as well:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F1C14A2rVbc
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Prior: BMW XC, TE610, KLR 650, 07 KTM 990 Adv, and many more ...BMWs, Ducs, KTMs, Harleys

teambft screwed with this post 09-16-2012 at 07:43 PM
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Old 09-16-2012, 09:33 PM   #2404
bill1960
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stifdickerson2006 View Post
Did you use the thermostat eliminator spacer or remove the unit altogether with the samco hose kit ?

I bought the 2012 450sx dungey replica rad hose from the T in the frame to the inlet in the LT side, Then I bout some silicon pcv caps I used 3 different sizes one backwards to plug the whole one to cap it and another to cap that one,just to make sure(looks very clean) only cost me $15.00-$20.00 rather than a $100.00+.300 miles from the cali valley where it was 95degrees stop and go to up over the sierras at 80degrees and 8700 ft into nevada 100 degrees stop and go and had no issues the fan has not been on since, At first I did just remove the spring in the housing by grinding out the housing real nice and used the original thermostat outer ring as the spacer to keep it leak free but the tank and still did not fit correctly to i just eliminated it.

Any problem fitting the Clockworks tank. From what I've read, earlier versions were problematic but issues are supposed to be resolved now ?

The only issue i had with the tank was about a 1/8 inch or less alignment of the tank to the LT side panel (where it meets at the rear of the air shroud) and that was because of the t sta,t with the scorpion rad guards (which are pretty bulky but very strong) the tank just fits. Besides the thermostat issue I just read the directions step by step and had no problem with the install, Just took my time and did it rite. if i had a different style of rad guard or none at all the tank would have fit no problem without removal of the tstat.
.
Could you provide details for the phone powerlet.

The powelet install is very easy it connects to the battery then you buy whatever kind of connector you need for whatever you want to power. Go to Burnsmoto.com they have a pretty good selection(Paul at HDB turned me onto them)..

I like the Wolfman rackless mounting for the bags. Do you have a pic that shows where the front strap rests on the seat ?

The rear strap I actually tuck under the rear of the seat and the Frt strap is just forward about 6 in on top of the seat. it does not hamper seat movement. On long rides your looking for different positions on the seat and it was never in the way or obtrusive, obviously with the big bag on top it does hamper you range of movement depending on how much you have in it, I'll get a pic up asap.

If KTM does not come thru I already have a few ideas on how to fix it properly,But im pretty sure they will it is purely a defect in the case.
Thx for the comprehensive reply
Would be interested to see pics of your thermostat elimination method when you get a chance.
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Old 09-17-2012, 08:03 AM   #2405
Stu
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KTM / Acerbis 3.4 Gallon Tank Install

Just got the tank installed. It is the new design with a new part number. The instructions are hopeless that came with the tank. They recommended that the stock bolts and screws from the 2.4 gal. tank be used. They cannot. The 4 screws to mount the electrical connector block are now "wood" screws rather than machine screws. The larger tank does not have metal inserts for this plate as does the 2.4 gal. tank. The mounting bolt and fuel pump connector bolt are both shorter than the stock parts. That is a good thing since it gets the fuel pump intake closer to the bottom of the tank.

Locating the fuel pump mounts through the holes was fairly easy. I dropped the unit in on the side with the holes, put the tank on the roof of my car and used some needle nose pliers to move the threaded mounts into position and they just dropped into place. I purchased a bunch of FI clamps and a foot of FI hose and made a loop of new hose down by the bleed screw for the clutch. This gets rid of the radical bend in the stock hose that had a tendency to leak at the bend. I tied this new run of hose to the clutch cable with a releasable nylon tie to keep brush from tangling in it.

The instructions also demonstrated where to trim plastic for the rear tank fitment. On my bike that was not necessary at all. Perhaps on the '12s. The instructions were not very clear on where the new rubber mounts were to be installed but they just get screwed into the radiator shroud mounts. I bent my horn bracket more or less straight and remounted the horn on my Bullet Proof radiator guards as high up as I could get it and still reach my 10mm head on the bolt with a box end wrench through the largest opening in the BP guards to tighten it up & secure the horn.

For you guys interested in how your new 500 looks I would add that there is a 10~11mm gap between the back of the tank and the plastic side panels.

I cannot post pix. My profile options don't include posting pix.

Stu
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Old 09-17-2012, 11:12 AM   #2406
DaveRMS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stu View Post
I cannot post pix. My profile options don't include posting pix.
Email me pics and I'll post them for you. daveatrallymanagementservicesdotcom

Dave
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Old 09-17-2012, 12:14 PM   #2407
Stifdickerson2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bill1960 View Post
Thx for the comprehensive reply
Would be interested to see pics of your thermostat elimination method when you get a chance.
Here is a picture of the tstat removal I made, basically I used a rubber plug for the hole and then used some silicon caps one that just fit over the rubber plug and another that just fit over that one and then used a hose clamp to tighten it up.

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Old 09-17-2012, 04:08 PM   #2408
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vico1 View Post
To me gearing has always been a matter of rider style and terrain. I use to think 14/48 was the bomb for around here (sand, piney woods, medium to high speed) but I dropped to 13/48 and was impressed Im thinking 13/50... I know the xcw come geared close to that, but the bike seems much happier with the 13 up front.

Went riding in the Florida Mountains this weekend. No need to rejet with the EFI.


Bike ran fine even this high up...
I agree. The bike comes alive imho. I ride tight single track and some open trails upto around 70mph so 13/48 rocks for me. When riding tight single track 2nd gear is a monster. I've tried 14/48 and for my terrain this combo was a bit to tall for me and made 2nd lug just enouph to throw me off my rhythm. I carry the 14 counter shaft sproket and extra link for the more wide open road rides. All i have to do is pull over and do a quick change out with the help of a friend. For me 13/48 is champ.
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Old 09-17-2012, 04:22 PM   #2409
Enduro Outlaw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stu View Post
I
I lowered both the front and rear of my 500 1". I lost nothing in handling or on jumps over the stock suspension and gained stability (no head shake so far). I'm still experimenting with these settings (preload, shock sag, etc.). I'm a woods rider with a 29" inseam, not an MX double jump guy so if you are a motocrosser I don't think this would be for you.

The bike is surprisingly agile and throttle response is, well, the way I like it -- violent.

Stu
I hear ya on the short inseam.. as i am 5.5 and 185 fully geared up and ride the hell out of this bike. The only issue i have is really tight corners or a quick leg down to stabilize the bike were being a little taller would come in handy. I was thinking about sending my suspension into EE and have them revalve and drop it 1.75". I'm like you and don't double or tripple jump the bike but do come down hard off some high step downs so i don't want to bottom the bike out all the time by backing off the preload and dopping the tripple clamps. Once i get the bike rolling i'm gone but man it's a tall son of my mother.
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Old 09-17-2012, 05:05 PM   #2410
Stu
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Suspension

Enduro Outlaw:

I talked to a lot of suspension folks about what I should do. The consensus was to only drop it 1" and no more if I still wanted the handling. The bike is still a bit tall for me but it is much better than it was stock. It is still a handling demon. You might consider only dropping the suspension 1" and see how that works for you.

Stu
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Old 09-17-2012, 05:15 PM   #2411
KrustyKustom
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Clutch Master cylinder

What brand clutch master cylinder does the 500exc have? Magura or Brembo?
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Old 09-17-2012, 05:39 PM   #2412
bill1960
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stu View Post
Enduro Outlaw:

I talked to a lot of suspension folks about what I should do. The consensus was to only drop it 1" and no more if I still wanted the handling. The bike is still a bit tall for me but it is much better than it was stock. It is still a handling demon. You might consider only dropping the suspension 1" and see how that works for you.

Stu
Here's a bit of info on lowering from a dualsport point of view
They quoted me $200 to insert a lowering spacer in the rear shock, and reassemble with new oil. They mentioned optional revalve depending on rider weight but not sure if thats extra $.
Don't know anything about them, just putting it out there.

Quote:
MAYBE THE WORLDS BEST HANDLING FIX:

You know, this one change works so good on this, and so many other bikes, that we started offering it for sale, so that others could be thrilled with the results as well.


And that change is to take out of the rear shock travel. Why would you want to do that you ask? Im glad you did ask, lets go through the pros and cons of doing this.

The good part of taking of travel out:
  1. You lower the seat height one full inch. This ofcourse makes it easier to get on the bike.
  2. With the seat lower, your sitting lower so the overall center of gravity of the bike and rider is lower. This makes turning and the control though turns much greater. You also automatically have more traction through the turns.
  3. The lowering doesnt affect the suspension action at all or really even reduce travel. You just hardly use that last of travel anyhow.
  4. You now have the option to move your forks back up in the triple clamps and really fine tune the bikes handling.

The bad part of taking travel out:
  1. Nothing really, except you do lose that last inch of travel, but when were you there anyhow? Exactly.
    The price of the mod is $200. This includes new oil and rebuild obviously since the shock has to be taken apart. We use 5wt Maxima racing shock fluid for a little bit more supple ride than the stock oil provided. We also have a high dollar air evacuator to make sure you shock is free of all air bubbles. This makes for better and continually consistent shock action. Shipping is $40 for the US, so for this service, just send a check for $240 with the shock. Its a 2-3 day turn around on this.
http://bestdualsportbikes.com/dual-s...2-ktm-500-exc/
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Old 09-17-2012, 05:52 PM   #2413
Stu
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Suspension Lowering Costs

My local suspension guy charged me $150 for lowering the shock 1" and $200 for both front forks. It would have been less had I pulled the suspension components but he did it to the new bike before I had a chance to yank them off.

Stu
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Old 09-17-2012, 10:53 PM   #2414
oldx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stu View Post
My local suspension guy charged me $150 for lowering the shock 1" and $200 for both front forks. It would have been less had I pulled the suspension components but he did it to the new bike before I had a chance to yank them off.

Stu
Had mine lowered 1" also,don't think I would try any more than that.
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Old 09-18-2012, 09:37 AM   #2415
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Hey thanks guys for the info! 1" would be ok, anything better than stock. I have a sicass racing seat #75-111 which helps alittle but not enough. It sure would be nice to sit on the seat and stand flat footed. Sounds like i need to get a big wheel 80 and drop the 500 in it or some platform boots, although i don't think alpinestars makes any of those.
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