2012 ktm 500 exc?

[the_babaji]

Originally Posted by harcus

Correct - The 1.75 was a brain-o. Sorry.

No Problem, buddy over at the auto parts store gave me the 1.75 bolt for free anyways

Thanks for the great article, it was a big help!

[SteveO]

Originally Posted by harcus

Additionally...The fan switch is mounted in the lower tank of the RH radiator. It is a 95 deg C switch. All good if is works. Mine failed during tight single track so some of the water / coolant boiled out.............

So, 95*C is equal to 203*F.

Most dirt-bike fluid boils around 220* to 250*........ depending on conditions.......

Originally Posted by buelless

The following info is taken from this link:

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/oi...on-d_1492.html



Temperature limits of some commons lubricating oils are indicated below:


I remember a rot (rule of thumb), don't know from where, that essentially said don't exceed 250F with petroleum oil and 320F with synthetics.

Hope this helps SteveO.

Well based on this info, it seems our engines should be well within the range of provided oil....I know I've hit 220*F before, and the bike still seemed to run fine.



I'm going to be installing a second fan that will integrate with the existing fan, and have both fans integrate with a switch. If I know i'll be getting into some tight technical areas, I can throw the switch and have the fans kick on keeping the engine cool through the rough stuff. Then, I can flip the switch back to normal, and the thermostat will take over duties as normal.

[harcus]

Originally Posted by SteveO

So, 95*C is equal to 203*F.

Most dirt-bike fluid boils around 220* to 250*........ depending on conditions.......







Well based on this info, it seems our engines should be well within the range of provided oil....I know I've hit 220*F before, and the bike still seemed to run fine.



I'm going to be installing a second fan that will integrate with the existing fan, and have both fans integrate with a switch. If I know i'll be getting into some tight technical areas, I can throw the switch and have the fans kick on keeping the engine cool through the rough stuff. Then, I can flip the switch back to normal, and the thermostat will take over duties as normal.

A point to ponder...

Looking at the schematic in the shop manual for this beast, you will note that there is a "B21 Engine coolant temperature sensor" with the symbol that appears to be a variable resistance as read by the ECU. Most probably, this is an input to the ECU for use in fuel calculation from the fuel map. Just like the Manifold Air Pressure, Intake air temp sensor & Throttle position sensor.

It is POSSIBLE that this temp info is used as a safety to avoid engine over heating. I say possible because I think none of us know the software enough to confirm such. But, it is certainly a typical safety feature to include at no cost.

This info can be used to...
a. increase fuel input to cool the engine when a temp limit is exceeded
b. shut the engine down when passing a limit point

The point is, it is EXTREMELY possible that the system has a built in over temp safety mechanism that will react faster than any human to prevent damage.

Only the shadow knows...

[SteveO]

Originally Posted by harcus

A point to ponder...

Looking at the schematic in the shop manual for this beast, you will note that there is a "B21 Engine coolant temperature sensor" with the symbol that appears to be a variable resistance as read by the ECU. Most probably, this is an input to the ECU for use in fuel calculation from the fuel map. Just like the Manifold Air Pressure, Intake air temp sensor & Throttle position sensor.

It is POSSIBLE that this temp info is used as a safety to avoid engine over heating. I say possible because I think none of us know the software enough to confirm such. But, it is certainly a typical safety feature to include at no cost.

This info can be used to...
a. increase fuel input to cool the engine when a temp limit is exceeded
b. shut the engine down when passing a limit point

The point is, it is EXTREMELY possible that the system has a built in over temp safety mechanism that will react faster than any human to prevent damage.

Only the shadow knows...

hmmmmm...... points to ponder........

[DirtToTar]

Originally Posted by unaweep

I had one on my 500 EXC. It lasted about 2 hours before it melted through and spilled fuel all over the motor. They are junk. Also, you have to splice the electrical wires on the tank- meaning you have spliced wires sloshing around in gasoline. Finally, the entire fuel pump installation is an abortion. All the o-rings on the fuel pump were damaged in the installation. It leaked from the bottom of the tank, at the fuel pump mount, from the minute it was installed

Here's the tank with two motor hours on it:



This is supposed to be the new and improved version of the tank, too.

I've heard a lot of people say they had good luck and a lot like me say they suck. I've purchased my last Clockwork product. $250 down the drain.

I will second the "JUNK" statement. Mine did not melt but may have if I had the nerve to start it with a slow stream of fuel leaking from the fuel pump mount. After about 15 hours trying this and trying that to get the pos to stop leaking I put the stock tank back on and carried some extra fuel on a rear rack. That will be my last tank from Clockwork.

[avconnect]

Originally Posted by Atomic Wedgie

First off, this is a sweet looking bike! Where did you get the ignition key eliminator? And I went on Sicass Racing's web page but couldn't find the top bar mount that raises the odometer up...where did you find that?

TIA

The key eliminator switch is from the KTM hard parts catalog. Looks like someone answered up or question about the top clamp. HighwayDirtBikes.

[the_babaji]

Is there an after market diagnostics/ scan tool for the 500, or the KTM's in general? For my Triumph, I have something called 'dealer tool'. It was not too expensive and was well worth the money.

Mine seems to idle quite fast, not sure if it is idling at the 1,850 rpm or not. It would be nice to see where it's set now.

[Wentjo]

Originally Posted by DirtToTar

I will second the "JUNK" statement. Mine did not melt but may have if I had the nerve to start it with a slow stream of fuel leaking from the fuel pump mount. After about 15 hours trying this and trying that to get the pos to stop leaking I put the stock tank back on and carried some extra fuel on a rear rack. That will be my last tank from Clockwork.

I just put a clockwork tank on my bike, so far I'm not impressed. Didn't go together very good, think I might try the KTM tank instead.

[unaweep]

Originally Posted by Wentjo

I just put a clockwork tank on my bike, so far I'm not impressed. Didn't go together very good, think I might try the KTM tank instead.

The Acerbis 3.2 tank is totally plug and play. 20 minutes to install. Like DirtToTar, I spent an incredible amount of time f'ing around trying to get that Clockwork POS to come together- around 10 hours total, and it still sucked. Shit, I can replace the entire top end in less than 10 hours. Infuriating does not adequately describe dealing with the Clockwork tank.

I compare the Clockwork tank to aftermarket parts we used to get in the 70's- nothing fit quite right, the instructions sucked, and it was just an inferior product on every level.

Also, many folks have stated they had good luck with dealing with Clockwork on warranty work. Not me. When one of their tanks leaks and catches on fire they are going to have a very serious liability problem on their hands.

[KrustyKustom]

Finally got the SAS port plugged. Definately a M12x1.5 thread.

Used a nice stainless Parker plug...

http://www.parker.com/portal/site/PA...D&vgnextfmt=EN

[FZcruzer]

Hello all,
Okay I know that the stock headlights on these are not optimal but I have a hard time believing that mine is working as it should. On low beam the small light (tiny) light bulb is on and when set to high beam the larger bulb is on.
When on low beam at night the beam does not even hit the ground and I need to put my hand in front of it to even tell it is on. When on high beam the light is not in any kind of beam and is scattered all over the place.
I have checked connections and looked to see if the light was way out of adjustment but no luck. Are they really this bad?

Rob,

[KrustyKustom]

Originally Posted by Magile

from http://www.ktm-parts.com/7810791324404.html



- M

Part Number says 13 liter, anyone checked the capacity actually filling it up?

[Saltydog86]

Originally Posted by FZcruzer

Hello all,
Okay I know that the stock headlights on these are not optimal but I have a hard time believing that mine is working as it should. On low beam the small light (tiny) light bulb is on and when set to high beam the larger bulb is on.
When on low beam at night the beam does not even hit the ground and I need to put my hand in front of it to even tell it is on. When on high beam the light is not in any kind of beam and is scattered all over the place.
I have checked connections and looked to see if the light was way out of adjustment but no luck. Are they really this bad?

Rob,

Your low beam part of the bulb is just burned out, it happens on most of them. I like mine this way, no headlight unless I hit high beam. I dont ride at night ever, unless I am caught out late in the afternoon and the sun sets quicker then I thought I could get home.

[Colemanfu]

Originally Posted by the_babaji

Is there an after market diagnostics/ scan tool for the 500, or the KTM's in general? For my Triumph, I have something called 'dealer tool'. It was not too expensive and was well worth the money.

Mine seems to idle quite fast, not sure if it is idling at the 1,850 rpm or not. It would be nice to see where it's set now.

Ya know you can manually adjust the idle. It's just tucked up so far ya can't see it and you need chick hands to adjust it ,

[the_babaji]

Originally Posted by Colemanfu

Ya know you can manually adjust the idle. It's just tucked up so far ya can't see it and you need chick hands to adjust it ,

Yeah I know. Still it would be nice to know what the rpm is and to have some sort of diagnostics tool. Does Tuneecu do any of that or just load maps?