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Old 12-09-2012, 05:33 PM   #2941
SoilSampleDave
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Joined: Jan 2005
Location: The Delta Ghetto, GA (aka PTC)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bill1960 View Post
There's 3 options that I know of

http://www.ktm.com/service/catalogue...rts2013us.html

scroll down to bottom left of webpage, enter page 66.

or

http://www.promotobillet.com/catalog...Path=23_99_106
I guess I wasn't thinking hard enough! Think I am going to go with the Pivot Pegz as they will give me -12mm, plus I have never tried them before. Thanks!
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Old 12-09-2012, 05:44 PM   #2942
SoilSampleDave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jesusgatos View Post
How tall are you? Moving the bars up is a lot different than moving them forward, which is going to affect the way the bike handles/steers (will make it twitchy).
I'm only 6' tall, but I am really wanting to be able to come up with a standing position where I am able to lean forward enough to really be in a neutral position and not using a lot of energy. I have only been able to pull this off once before, on a DRZ where I flipped the offset bar mounts on the aftermarket clamp to a forward position. It was a little awkward while seated, but I could ride standing up seemingly endlessly with little effort. A little lightbulb went off over my head when I tried that, and have been wanting to re-create it ever since. I am going to try swapping to my favorite tall bars (Pastrana Freestyle bend) and see if that helps. The problem is that as you go up with risers, you also go back. From another post on here, I am also going to try the Pivot Pegz, which let you move the pegs down 12mm, and back 5mm. That might do the trick as well. I think this bike is a keeper, so I figure why not throw the checkbook at it!
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Old 12-09-2012, 05:48 PM   #2943
SoilSampleDave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soutahduner View Post
I have used them before, and was just curious for other options. For the pounding they will take here, I'll go with the pro-offset block style model, as I would be a little skeptical on the pivoting ones. But first, I am going to try the other footpegs/bars thing I just posted. Thanks.
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Old 12-10-2012, 09:44 AM   #2944
J.Johnson
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Installed HDB hand guards, mirrors, turn signals. Baja Designs Squadron light. Scott's stabilizer. Billet radiator guards. All on my buddy's 2013 500 exc.


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Old 12-10-2012, 11:00 AM   #2945
SoilSampleDave
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Originally Posted by J.Johnson View Post

Installed HDB hand guards, mirrors, turn signals. Baja Designs Squadron light. Scott's stabilizer. Billet radiator guards. All on my buddy's 2013 500 exc.


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I wish you would do that to my EXC!
Sweet!
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Old 12-10-2012, 11:04 AM   #2946
kbear
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Location: South Central Wisconsin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoilSampleDave View Post
Yeah, it's always a struggle to decide which is worse; knees that hurt from being bent to less than a 90 degree angle or the struggle to get a leg over a tall seat and touch the ground. Lowering the footpegs would be better, but I haven't seen an option to do that on these bikes. I have a 33-1/2 inseam and I am already having trouble getting a leg over the seat. But, I have the static sag jacked up because I need the next stiffer spring. I thought I might get enough drop to go with the +1 seat once I can set the sag properly. Based on your email, it isn't sounding very likely. Did you buy complete seats or just a foam? Did you already sell off the +1 version?
I forgot to note that I have a heavier rear spring installed as well. I weigh in at 240#, so when the sag is set for my weight, it's another reason the +1 was too tall. I bought the foam and cover both times, and installed them myself. Wanna buy the +1? Never mind I sold it today....

kbear screwed with this post 12-10-2012 at 10:01 PM Reason: sold seat foam
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Old 12-10-2012, 09:33 PM   #2947
advdoctor
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Did it require modding the factory lights to fit into the top clamp. Why did you choose to retain two in the computer protector rather then move them all down into the clamp?
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Old 12-11-2012, 01:14 AM   #2948
bill1960
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BD keyed switch 500 XCW

I bought the baja designs keyed switch with my HDB setup.

Its not plugnplay as far as I can tell.

Whats the usual way to wire it into the 500 XCW ?
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Old 12-11-2012, 04:03 AM   #2949
Lulu7404
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tall foam and cover

Quote:
Originally Posted by SoilSampleDave View Post
Yeah, it's always a struggle to decide which is worse; knees that hurt from being bent to less than a 90 degree angle or the struggle to get a leg over a tall seat and touch the ground. Lowering the footpegs would be better, but I haven't seen an option to do that on these bikes. I have a 33-1/2 inseam and I am already having trouble getting a leg over the seat. But, I have the static sag jacked up because I need the next stiffer spring. I thought I might get enough drop to go with the +1 seat once I can set the sag properly. Based on your email, it isn't sounding very likely. Did you buy complete seats or just a foam? Did you already sell off the +1 version?
Hey Dave. I have a seat concepts tall foam and cover. Like new condition. Bundy offered to buy the foam back from me and I just never sent it back. If you are interested, i posted some pictures of it earlier in this thread, just search by my handle. Shoot me a pm. $100 shipped and its yours. At 5'10", 30" inseam, it was just too tall for me. The standard foam is perfect for me.

Brad
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Old 12-11-2012, 06:13 AM   #2950
J.Johnson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by advdoctor View Post
Did it require modding the factory lights to fit into the top clamp. Why did you choose to retain two in the computer protector rather then move them all down into the clamp?
That is how my buddy wanted it. Did not have to mod lights. Just drill out the clamp to the right size hole.


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Old 12-11-2012, 06:14 AM   #2951
J.Johnson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bill1960 View Post
I bought the baja designs keyed switch with my HDB setup.

Its not plugnplay as far as I can tell.

Whats the usual way to wire it into the 500 XCW ?
You can contact Baja Designs. They are usually pretty helpful on the phone. Ck Thier website it might have something.


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Old 12-11-2012, 06:25 AM   #2952
Nomad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bill1960 View Post
I bought the baja designs keyed switch with my HDB setup.

Its not plugnplay as far as I can tell.

Whats the usual way to wire it into the 500 XCW ?
I'm working on getting it wired in too but on my EXC. I havent talked to BD yet but I know if you send Paul at HDB an email, he could probably walk you through it. He's got the BD ignition switch wired into his XCW.
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Old 12-11-2012, 09:02 AM   #2953
theantipaul
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomad View Post
I'm working on getting it wired in too but on my EXC. I havent talked to BD yet but I know if you send Paul at HDB an email, he could probably walk you through it. He's got the BD ignition switch wired into his XCW.

Hey guys, I have 2 emails asking about this and this is what I sent off yesterday,

I have the BD switch on my bike, but being an XCW I had to wire it in.

The BD switch has 4 wires and 2 circuits, red and black are for the power circuit, red is typically the power from your battery and black is the switched power out of the switch. When the key is off, that circuit is open and no power flows. Turn to on and the battery powers up lights, etc.

The other side of the switch is green and black w/white stripe wires, this is the kill circuit, typically the green is ground and the black w/white stripe is from your ignition, when the key is off this circuit is closed and the kill wire from your ignition is grounded so that the bike won't start. Turn it to on and the circuit is opened and the ignition is no longer grounded and the bike can start.

Let me know if that helps and what you're trying to do and what bike you're dealing with.

I'm not sure if Chad is a member here, but he's dealing with the same issue and he sent me a few photo's, from what I can tell from the KTM schematic, looks like 4 wires go into the KTM ignition switch, red and white w/orange stripe, these would be your power in and power out. Then there are black and blue wires, these should be kill.

If I could get one of you EXC guys to check if the white w/orange stripe wire has 12v to it with the switch off, and then red and white w/orange stripe having 12v when the switch is on, that part would be solved, same with the black and blue, with an Ohm meter check continuity with ground, then we'll know which is ground and kill.

My guess would be for the KTM switch is those are the 2 circuits,

KTM----BD
red----red
white w/orange stripe----black
black----green
blue----black w/white stripe

Now here's the confusing part, BD has wired in a 4 contact connector with only 2 wires, the kill circuit coming out, the black wire coming out is the green wire on the BD switch and the blue wire is the black w/white stripe, just like the KTM harness.

I rewired the connector, so I didn't have to worry about all the rest.

Let me know if any of this makes any sense the way I've explained it.
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Old 12-11-2012, 09:22 AM   #2954
theantipaul
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Using my poor man's scanner,

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Old 12-11-2012, 10:45 AM   #2955
Nomad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theantipaul View Post
Hey guys, I have 2 emails asking about this and this is what I sent off yesterday,

I have the BD switch on my bike, but being an XCW I had to wire it in.

The BD switch has 4 wires and 2 circuits, red and black are for the power circuit, red is typically the power from your battery and black is the switched power out of the switch. When the key is off, that circuit is open and no power flows. Turn to on and the battery powers up lights, etc.

The other side of the switch is green and black w/white stripe wires, this is the kill circuit, typically the green is ground and the black w/white stripe is from your ignition, when the key is off this circuit is closed and the kill wire from your ignition is grounded so that the bike won't start. Turn it to on and the circuit is opened and the ignition is no longer grounded and the bike can start.

Let me know if that helps and what you're trying to do and what bike you're dealing with.

I'm not sure if Chad is a member here, but he's dealing with the same issue and he sent me a few photo's, from what I can tell from the KTM schematic, looks like 4 wires go into the KTM ignition switch, red and white w/orange stripe, these would be your power in and power out. Then there are black and blue wires, these should be kill.

If I could get one of you EXC guys to check if the white w/orange stripe wire has 12v to it with the switch off, and then red and white w/orange stripe having 12v when the switch is on, that part would be solved, same with the black and blue, with an Ohm meter check continuity with ground, then we'll know which is ground and kill.

My guess would be for the KTM switch is those are the 2 circuits,

KTM----BD
red----red
white w/orange stripe----black
black----green
blue----black w/white stripe

Now here's the confusing part, BD has wired in a 4 contact connector with only 2 wires, the kill circuit coming out, the black wire coming out is the green wire on the BD switch and the blue wire is the black w/white stripe, just like the KTM harness.

I rewired the connector, so I didn't have to worry about all the rest.

Let me know if any of this makes any sense the way I've explained it.
oh hey Paul, not sure if it makes a difference but theres only 3 wires coming from the bike. 2 white/orange and 1 red.



in the stock plug you can see the red goes to orange and the 2 white/orange go to green.



I'm gonna try and pick up a multimeter today. What I tried doing is connecting both white/orange to black and red to blue and vise versa but both ways causes the switch to work in reverse. Obviously I'm no electrician.
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