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Old 03-28-2013, 08:08 PM   #3631
Enduro Outlaw
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Joined: Jul 2012
Location: Oklahoma
Oddometer: 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ500exc View Post
How to cure 500 exc flameout problems
Advancing your tps closed throttle value to .640 volts instead of the specified .601 volts will get rid of flame outs. Now I imagine there is a range of voltages that will work, but .640 volts is where I ended up. The jd tuner will usually make it better but not get rid of flameout. Try this for yourself. Pull the cover off of tps, mark position of sensor so you can return it to original position. Loosen torx screw just enough to be able to rotate tps. Start bike, if you have a tuner put it back to recommended settings for idle and low speed. Rotate tps ccw very very slightly. You should notice the engine smoothing out-(if you go to far it will get slightly rougher again) tighten screw -- test ride-- night and day difference. Now to set tps properly here is a link to a tps setting tool.

http://ktmtalk.com/index.php?showtopic=440540&hl=

My tps is set to .640 volts.closed throttle and will still get to 3.8 volts at full
throttle, as it should.

You can now chug the engine down to nothing and not fear the flameout. Being a light flywheel it obviously doesn't chug like an rfs, but thats the tradeoff for throttle response and handling.

I can confirm this works. I set my tps to .640 at the closed position and can now chug at low rpm without worrying about stalling. You can chug then pin it. I also use the jd tuner at recommended settings. Super easy adjustment.. only took 5 minutes. I have alot more confidence in the bike as I can now stay off the clutch. My TPS reading at full throttle is 3.9v and does not matter.. the bike pulls hard.

Enduro Outlaw screwed with this post 03-30-2013 at 12:13 PM
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Old 03-29-2013, 07:10 AM   #3632
MJG2
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Location: Pennsylvania USA
Oddometer: 53
Tires 13 500 EXC

I have no time on my new 500 yet but been reading some on tires

it comes with Maxxis cross SI 7311 on front -but doesnt use the mate which would be the 7312 for the rear?

instead it uses Maxx enduro 7314 on rear
its mate would be the 7313 for the front

WHy you think they did not use the matched tires ?
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Old 03-29-2013, 07:24 AM   #3633
E-Ticket2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Enduro Outlaw View Post
I can confirm this works. I set my tps to .640 at the closed position and can now chug at low rpm without worrying about stalling. You can chug then pin it. I also use the jd tuner at recommended settings. Super easy adjustment.. only took 5 minutes. I have alot more confidence in the bike as I can now stay off the clutch.
If it is that easy/straight-forward of cure or improvement in rideability ... why doesn't it just come that way?

Emissions reasons ....?

- ET
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Old 03-29-2013, 07:28 AM   #3634
buls4evr
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: Michissippi & Nuevo Mexico
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boostracer View Post
Just leave the screen out & screw the nut in, tight! You're then legal, let him do the stick test, as mentioned the spark arrestor's inside.

Thanks for the idea boostracer. I think I will safety wire the ring down to an endcap screw also though.Anyone make a nice little end snorkel that directs that heat flow down away from my right turn signal?
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Old 03-29-2013, 07:40 AM   #3635
buls4evr
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Location: Michissippi & Nuevo Mexico
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Enduro Outlaw View Post
I can confirm this works. I set my tps to .640 at the closed position and can now chug at low rpm without worrying about stalling. You can chug then pin it. I also use the jd tuner at recommended settings. Super easy adjustment.. only took 5 minutes. I have alot more confidence in the bike as I can now stay off the clutch.

Does the "FI" trouble light still stay off after you change the TPS position?
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Old 03-29-2013, 05:40 PM   #3636
Dirty in all
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Location: Connecticut
Oddometer: 160
Loctite wtf !!!

lol so as you can see Im a little freaked out about loctite. I know Ive seen some posts about it but cant seem to refine the search function enough and Ive been reading for way too long in too many places to not find an answer yet, so here I am.

In the manual my loctite shop supplies should include -
loctite 243
loctite 2701
loctite 648

If I look at any stores or online I cant get the numbers to match so I have -
loctite 27010
loctite 24010
these are both gel type which is really nice to work with, stays where I want, easy to deal with in general.

I think I read that theres differences between whats listed and what I can get is because its European numbers vs. US numbers. Does anyone want to rehash the loctite info for me again please? What Im most interested in here is what to use on the sprocket bolts for the rear wheel, counter shaft sprocket, brake rotors and caliper bracket. I plan on doing alot of swapping this year from supermoto to off road set ups and really looking to do whats in my best interest on keeping it quick. What is also sending me for a loop is the coloring and I guess what got me thinking I might be using the wrong stuff. The rear sprocket bolts came with what appears to be green, the rotor and caliper bolts appear to be blue. The 20710 that I was using for the listed 2701 is red and the 24010 used in place of the 243 is blue. Have some green in the toolbox but it said for use after the fact?

On another note, while looking through the manual, on page 13 there is a picture of where to locate the shock absorber part number. They show a sensor bunged into the exhaust. Does anyone have this? Ive asked somewhere before how exactly the EFI on these bikes performs its duties and Ive ALWAYS seen exhaust sensors on EFI, but not on my EXC. Is the system just a glorified carb where its not really sensing and doing all the functions it could be? I recently put the FMF mega bomb and 4.1 system on along with the twin air power flow kit. Reset my JD tuner back to how it came (suggested settings, not stock settings) and the bike is a complete monster now. Every and any issue with flame out or stalling while chugging at little to no throttle input has been eradicated. I did set the idle setting on the tuner up a bit until the idle smoothed out. So what Im getting at is on my SXV if you do anything like exhaust etc... you need to map or tune it in some way. Is it critical on the EXC? I just don't want to run it and burn a valve or something or run it in a bad fueling situation. I have a dyno tune scheduled in a few weeks so Ill report back on what we find out as far as tuner settings and F/A ratios across the board but in the mean time Im just looking for some input on the EFI and how its doing its job.

Thanks for reading, thanks in advance for any help.
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Old 03-29-2013, 07:47 PM   #3637
mnsnowhawk
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Location: Dayton, MN
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The efi system is really not the best system on our bikes. It is not a closed loop system and won't compensate for altitude. It does some for temp but if running in too cold of temps it will overfuel and get gas in the oil. This is what the guys getting snowbike kits are dealing with. Currently a few guys are testing out a dobeck controller that uses an o2 sensor and will constantly adjust afr . Making it a closed loop system. Nice system and not too expensive. Not sure when it is going to be sold. I will also be switching out between dirt and supermoto. I would also like to know what locktite guys are using.
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Old 03-29-2013, 09:05 PM   #3638
jesusgatos
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Joined: Nov 2006
Location: on the road
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bill1960 View Post
Yeah, the x bushing. Its advertised as lowering the rear up to 7/8"/22mm
I did install it but only got around 14mm 5/8"inch lower.
Did not know it was an open-loop FI system on these bikes.
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Old 03-30-2013, 01:13 AM   #3639
team ftb
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Originally Posted by bill1960
Yeah, the x bushing. Its advertised as lowering the rear up to 7/8"/22mm
I did install it but only got around 14mm 5/8"inch lower.



Installed the X bushing and also got the same. About 1/2" lower seat height where i sit. I'm guessing Synergy Seals are measuring the change at the rear of the seat for marketing reasons.
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Old 03-30-2013, 08:24 AM   #3640
YAHBO
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Location: Eastern Long Island, NY
Oddometer: 727
Bars?

What are peeps running for handlebars? I bent the stockers and would like something with a little higher rise. Any hot tips?
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Old 03-30-2013, 09:48 AM   #3641
Bengt Phorks
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YAHBO View Post
What are peeps running for handlebars? I bent the stockers and would like something with a little higher rise. Any hot tips?
Try moving the handlebars to the forward position before doing anything else. Ride the bike for at least a day to get used to it before you change to something different . It made a big difference for me on steep downhills.
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Old 03-30-2013, 10:04 AM   #3642
SoilSampleDave
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Location: The Delta Ghetto, GA (aka PTC)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YAHBO View Post
What are peeps running for handlebars? I bent the stockers and would like something with a little higher rise. Any hot tips?
What Bengt said, position 4 plus Pro Taper Pastrana Freestyle bend. Those are great tall bars.
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Old 03-30-2013, 11:00 AM   #3643
Bengt Phorks
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mnsnowhawk View Post
The efi system is really not the best system on our bikes. It is not a closed loop system and won't compensate for altitude. It does some for temp but if running in too cold of temps it will overfuel and get gas in the oil. This is what the guys getting snowbike kits are dealing with. Currently a few guys are testing out a dobeck controller that uses an o2 sensor and will constantly adjust afr . Making it a closed loop system. Nice system and not too expensive. Not sure when it is going to be sold. I will also be switching out between dirt and supermoto. I would also like to know what locktite guys are using.
The KTM efi does adjust for altitude, it has a Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor.
The KTM repair manual electrical schematics shows that the EU EXC & the EXC Six Days have a Lambda (oxygen) sensor that the USA EXC / all XCW units don't.
The Emissions Requirements in Europe are much more strict than the USA, even worse than Kookoofornia.

This website has some info about problems with the Lambda sensor when modifying the exhaust.
http://www.magnumtuning.com/en/detai...0-exc-six-days
Quote from website advertisement;
If you want your 500 EXC Six Days to work better, no matter where you are, then you need to install our KTM Oxygen sensor simulator /is aimed to resolve O2 sensor related check engine light issues/. This Oxygen sensor harness is fully compatible with your Motorcycle and give you the opportunity to make it better. As an upgrade manufacturer we offer the best deals on the market. Full warranty coverage and tech support. If you want to add some instant engine power /because O2 sensor eliminator is supposed to cure O2 sensor related MIL, CEL error codes resulted by modified or aftermarket exhaust and headers/ to your custom project, check out the new KTM 500 EXC Six Days Oxygen sensor simulator /is aimed to resolve O2 sensor related check engine light issues/. Magnum has a full line of KTM upgrades for your Motorcycle. Enhance your HP /while sorting out of MIL, CEL trouble codes/ and fuel efficiency /after Oxygen Sensor MIL, CEL issues treated/ from now on. Specs are warranted by the producer. To produce better engine power /because O2 sensor eliminator is supposed to cure O2 sensor related MIL, CEL error codes resulted by modified or aftermarket exhaust and headers/ and HP /while sorting out of MIL, CEL trouble codes/ has never been an easy job, but the revolutionary KTM Bike O2 Sensor Simulator does this instantly...........

The KTM efi is set up for using the stock exhaust system and modifying it will change the A/F ratio. The factory efi is not adjustable. A JD tuner can modify the A/F ratio to fix a lean or rich problem.
Checking the spark plug will show if the engine is running lean or rich. A white color on the insulator = lean, Light tan = perfect, and black = rich.

Taking out the thermostat will give you the cold weather problems that you mentioned. Do snowmobiles have the same issues?

I use Grade C Loctite for everything.
http://www.woodcentral.com/woodworki...octite-grades/
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Old 03-30-2013, 11:54 AM   #3644
Enduro Outlaw
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Location: Oklahoma
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E-Ticket2 View Post
If it is that easy/straight-forward of cure or improvement in rideability ... why doesn't it just come that way?

Emissions reasons ....?

- ET
Who knows.. All I know is i can chug in 2nd and pin it and it will not stall anymore. This is a must do mod. Set your TPS to .640 volts and lock it there.

Enduro Outlaw screwed with this post 03-30-2013 at 12:04 PM
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Old 03-30-2013, 11:55 AM   #3645
Enduro Outlaw
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Location: Oklahoma
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buls4evr View Post
Does the "FI" trouble light still stay off after you change the TPS position?
Yes the FI lamp will stay off. I am not getting any FI codes at all only a bike that will go from almost stall speed to full throttle without stalling. Feels stronger all the way up the power curve.
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